Thanks Brother! Its mostly water only. Its a weak soil mix so I'll give em a few liquid feedings when they really need something specific. This is my homie Dorje's recipe. This recipe makes 20 gallons of soil and does not require any "cooking" time.
"I start with a basic potting mix:
~50% organic potting soil, usually combine a few brands
~20% peat moss in large compressed bails
~20% chunky perlite
~10% coco
some Alaska hummus soil to kick start the microbes
whatever myco additives you feel like
The soil mix is ok the 1st time, but you will see much better results the 2nd time you use the soil, and you never need to re-introduce microbial life which saves a lot of money. The first time you use the soil be careful not to add many dry ferts as commercial potting mixes (FFOF, looking at you!) can be pretty hot. Maybe add a half dose for the 1st round, then the full monty thereafter.
I divided up the dry ferts into categories... pH control, N, P, K, and micros. You Here's my list:
pH:
-1 cup dolomite lime, or any lime that has a decent amount of magnesium carbonate.
-1 cup of fine-ground oyster shell, primarily calcium carbonate
Nitrogen:
-1 cup alfalfa meal
-1 cup flax seed meal
-2/3 cup blood meal
-1.5 cup high-N bat guano (10-x-x)
-EWC every 3rd run or so, ~6 cups EWC is good but too much can make the soil too heavy
Phosphorus:
-1 cup fish bone meal
-1 cup crustacean meal (also for pH)
-1 cup bone meal
-1 cup high P bat guano (x-10-x)
Potassium
-2/3 cup greensand
-1 cup kelp meal
Micros:
-1/2 cup glacial rock dust
-2/3 cup pelletized azomite
-2/3 cup pelletized humates
You can use whatever you can find for dry ferts, just try to balance the NPK ratios of your mix.Lime is key, never skip it but don't add too much the 1st time, commercial potting mixes already have a lot of lime or oyster shell to keep the pH in check."
