If you have chemistry questions....

[Seamaiden]

So, this applies to with genetic colourations as well as seasonal changes, yes?
(thanks for the reminder Seamaiden)


So, would a genetically purple plant potentially have a higher resistance?


So, let me see if I can put my thoughts out clearly here...
So, a plant under controlled lighting, experiencing lighting shortages/blackout, will potentially go into (what I call) "fall mode" & change colour?

I'm just trying to sort out the correlations between how indoor & outdoor plants behave in like.
Make sense?

Yes! Not always, but some.

 

[Kitsune Nyx]

Yes! Not always, but some.

GOOD to know!
(*now to learn more about those strains...* as I live where the state bird is the Mosquito & the gnat)
:cat:
Thanks all!
*twirl*

 

[squiggly]

Clean as follows:

1. Soap and Water.
2. Rinse thoroughly.

If you are using a semi-porous reservoir, like plastic, the directions end there.

If you are using a glass reservoir, or an extremely smooth plastic surface (like teflon or something) then you can get away with using bleach.

You probably can as well with a normal plastic res, but I don't recommend it. Try as we might to get rid of stuff, some of it always finds a way to stick around--and bacteria really hate bleach :) Soap and water will usually do the trick. You may also use acids and bases in order of increasing strength to get out any stains. Usually you'll do like a baking soda paste first, scrub, rinse that out well--and then come at with some vinegar. Next step would be NaOH/HCl. After that you probably don't want to "clean" with acid anymore as it can get really dangerous.

As always if bleaching or using acid/base--safety glasses are a must.

Rubbing alcohol is a good alternative to bleach if you really must get some chemicals in there to get shit out, hydrogen peroxide will also work well and isn't as persistent as bleach.

For a sense of where I'm coming from here:

In every lab at university, excepting the biochem lab, the cleaning procedure for glassware and other apparatus were pretty standard. Hit it with some acetone to get all the nasties out--these go in a waste jug--then hit it with soap and water (waste goes down the drain). Finish it off with ethanol and let dry.

The only differences in the whole university were in the analytical lab and the biochem lab.

In analytical lab a special mix of acids, detergents, et al was used in a sonication bath to clean all glassware. This lab has higher standards because it's focus is finding out stuff about specific samples, and care must be taken to avoid contamination.

In the biochem lab the rule was basically soap and water on anything, and you're the devil if you put a chemical on their glass. I actually got scolded in the biochem lab for ruining a piece of glassware by using a common laboratory technique to speed drying--I used the nitrogen line to run a stream of nitrogen over the glass so that it would evaporate faster. She complained that there was oil in those lines that might damage bacteria or corrupt samples. The glassware was thrown out, not cleaned, thrown out.

 

[Canappa]

Great Thread! I have gone through some pages and I have respect for your knowledge in chemistry.

Just a quick question if you can answer for me in regards to making RSO Rick Simpson oil. The process they describe involves washing the starting material twice with a good solvent such as pure naphtha, to remove the available resin from the plant material. There are many solvents such as ether, alcohol and naphtha? Do you recommend any of these? Or something else that will do the job and be safe for RSO.

 

[Seamaiden]

Clean as follows:

1. Soap and Water.
2. Rinse thoroughly.

If you are using a semi-porous reservoir, like plastic, the directions end there.

If you are using a glass reservoir, or an extremely smooth plastic surface (like teflon or something) then you can get away with using bleach.

You probably can as well with a normal plastic res, but I don't recommend it. Try as we might to get rid of stuff, some of it always finds a way to stick around--and bacteria really hate bleach :) Soap and water will usually do the trick. You may also use acids and bases in order of increasing strength to get out any stains. Usually you'll do like a baking soda paste first, scrub, rinse that out well--and then come at with some vinegar. Next step would be NaOH/HCl. After that you probably don't want to "clean" with acid anymore as it can get really dangerous.

Squigs, I've gotta disagree with you on this point regarding bleach always sticking around. It's used very commonly in both home and public aquaria, and the nose is the tell. If simply allowing it to air dry is insufficient, then it's too easily neutralized via dechlorination methods. It's used for extremely porous surfaces, such as cleaning decorations like dead coral heads, and I know it works and works well.

But, try to get soap out of porous surfaces? I can assure you that you'll kill your fish, so there clearly *must* be some left behind, which is why it's ruled against even when using with non-porous glass.

That said, I've already had the discussion about whether or not it's ok to use a couple drops of true soap when preparing an ACT for foliar application. D'oh!

Btw, I think it should be noted that there is a difference between a true soap (fats + sodium hydroxide, or lye, a la Dr. Bronner's) and detergents (a la Dawn, for example).

 

[squiggly]

Squigs, I've gotta disagree with you on this point regarding bleach always sticking around. It's used very commonly in both home and public aquaria, and the nose is the tell. If simply allowing it to air dry is insufficient, then it's too easily neutralized via dechlorination methods. It's used for extremely porous surfaces, such as cleaning decorations like dead coral heads, and I know it works and works well.

But, try to get soap out of porous surfaces? I can assure you that you'll kill your fish, so there clearly *must* be some left behind, which is why it's ruled against even when using with non-porous glass.

That said, I've already had the discussion about whether or not it's ok to use a couple drops of true soap when preparing an ACT for foliar application. D'oh!

Btw, I think it should be noted that there is a difference between a true soap (fats + sodium hydroxide, or lye, a la Dr. Bronner's) and detergents (a la Dawn, for example).

Like you might have surmised--this might be the difference between a home and a lab. What I know is that my professors wouldn't have had it--so I won't (particularly because it really shouldn't be needed for this process, and my policy is to only use chemicals which are needed and to use them in a directed manner). However, yes, you can get away with it. If you take a bucket and put bleach in it, then rinse well a few times--you won't even notice on the grander scale that you bleached the thing.

On a different level though, this stuff isn't rocket science so it doesn't need to be taken so seriously--but for me, I AM actually trying to do science when I work with this stuff so my outlook is a bit different.

 

[squiggly]

Great Thread! I have gone through some pages and I have respect for your knowledge in chemistry.

Just a quick question if you can answer for me in regards to making RSO Rick Simpson oil. The process they describe involves washing the starting material twice with a good solvent such as pure naphtha, to remove the available resin from the plant material. There are many solvents such as ether, alcohol and naphtha? Do you recommend any of these? Or something else that will do the job and be safe for RSO.

For the beginners level I would probably recommend using ethanol. This is not necessarily the best solvent but it is the safest one. You can safely ingest it, and its widely available--and most importantly it does the job.

 

[chronic kid]

Hey Squiggly, I'm trying to figure out the percentages of chemical salts in my nutrient mix. I have the labels of all the materials involved and I know exactly how much I've amended, I just need to in effect create a new NPK label. How might I go about it?

 

[deacon1503]

Would you mind giving this Fasilitor thread a read and clarify a few things for us?

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/aptus-facilitator.48284/

Thanks Squiggly

 

[Black Lab]

Hi Squiggly, Glad to see you back posting. I have always enjoyed your chemical knowledge and thanks for taking your time to post. Could you help me understand how to remove chloramines from tap water? I have read vitamin C will "remove" chloramines, but, I also read the process is short lived and lasts a day or two. What happens to the chlorine and ammonia with vitamin C? I read that Humic Acid will remove chloramines and I read that adding a handful of compost and bubbling will break down chloramines. I am looking for a reliable way to remove or breakdown the chloramine into something harmless to plants and soil. I grow organically in soil and am hoping to maintain a healthy soil. Thanks.

 

[JazzedGator]

Hello all, Squiggly here--resident chemistry asshole here at the farm :)

For the past year or so in my free time I have been compiling some useful chemistry information (and underlying concepts) as it regards cultivation--cannabis in particular (where I'm able to find specifics). I plan to really kick this project into high gear for this year, hoping to have something broad and publishable by the end of 2013.

In the mean time I have a few requests of you guys:

1. If you have a chemistry question--please either post it here. There is no such thing as a stupid question, if its something you want to know and don't, there is a high degree of certainty which says there are many people out there who are in that same situation. I want this guide to help all growers, beginning and expert, so its important for me to get an idea of what people do/don't/want to know.

2. If you know of any great resources which helped you to understand a chemical concept, a link to that in my inbox would be helpful. While I am pretty darn good at chemistry I am not ALWAYS good at teaching (although I like to think I take a piece-wise, one-concept-into-the-next approach). For this reason it will be helpful for me to check out methods that help people learn about chemistry and those which don't.

3. If you have a piece of chemical literature which you would like "translated" I would be happy to facilitate that. The scope and amount of material I can cover will be limited--I still have studies to pursue--so choose wisely.

As a thank you for helping me here, the fruits of my labor will be released for free (in a thread) here at the farm when it is completed. I'd like to offer, also, to answer any and all questions about chemistry here in this thread. I am more than willing to help those of you with more specific questions on an individual basis as well--as many farmers will certainly attest.

If your question is broad, please post it here so that everyone may share in the discussion. If it is a specific question relating only to your situation, please contact me through the message system.

Thanks!!!

P.S.

Topics open for question in which I have expertise:

Chemistry (my specialization is in organic synthesis--but I am knowledgeable elsewhere)
Biochemistry
Molecular Biology (intermediate)
Physics (intermediate)
Genetics (cursory)


This discussion is not limited to only the act of growing. Extractions, assays, other tests, lighting questions, etc, all apply here.

Be assured, if I am not fairly certain of the answer I am providing you--that I will say as much. It is not my intention to pretend I know more than I do, but rather to share that which I do know.

My inbox is ALSO open to submissions to this document--and as it will be in a thread when released, it will be a living document which can be added to and corrected over time if other information is found.

PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CORRECT ME IF I GET SOMETHING WRONG--THIS PROCESS IS ABOUT FINDING REAL TRUTH, AND REAL EXPERIMENTAL/LITERATURE VALUES THAT ALL FARMERS MAY BENEFIT FROM. THERE IS NO "BEING CORRECT" IN THIS THREAD, THERE IS ONLY "PROVING CORRECTNESS."

Hello all, Squiggly here--resident chemistry asshole here at the farm :)

For the past year or so in my free time I have been compiling some useful chemistry information (and underlying concepts) as it regards cultivation--cannabis in particular (where I'm able to find specifics). I plan to really kick this project into high gear for this year, hoping to have something broad and publishable by the end of 2013.

In the mean time I have a few requests of you guys:

1. If you have a chemistry question--please either post it here. There is no such thing as a stupid question, if its something you want to know and don't, there is a high degree of certainty which says there are many people out there who are in that same situation. I want this guide to help all growers, beginning and expert, so its important for me to get an idea of what people do/don't/want to know.

2. If you know of any great resources which helped you to understand a chemical concept, a link to that in my inbox would be helpful. While I am pretty darn good at chemistry I am not ALWAYS good at teaching (although I like to think I take a piece-wise, one-concept-into-the-next approach). For this reason it will be helpful for me to check out methods that help people learn about chemistry and those which don't.

3. If you have a piece of chemical literature which you would like "translated" I would be happy to facilitate that. The scope and amount of material I can cover will be limited--I still have studies to pursue--so choose wisely.

As a thank you for helping me here, the fruits of my labor will be released for free (in a thread) here at the farm when it is completed. I'd like to offer, also, to answer any and all questions about chemistry here in this thread. I am more than willing to help those of you with more specific questions on an individual basis as well--as many farmers will certainly attest.

If your question is broad, please post it here so that everyone may share in the discussion. If it is a specific question relating only to your situation, please contact me through the message system.

Thanks!!!

P.S.

Topics open for question in which I have expertise:

Chemistry (my specialization is in organic synthesis--but I am knowledgeable elsewhere)
Biochemistry
Molecular Biology (intermediate)
Physics (intermediate)
Genetics (cursory)


This discussion is not limited to only the act of growing. Extractions, assays, other tests, lighting questions, etc, all apply here.

Be assured, if I am not fairly certain of the answer I am providing you--that I will say as much. It is not my intention to pretend I know more than I do, but rather to share that which I do know.

My inbox is ALSO open to submissions to this document--and as it will be in a thread when released, it will be a living document which can be added to and corrected over time if other information is found.

PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CORRECT ME IF I GET SOMETHING WRONG--THIS PROCESS IS ABOUT FINDING REAL TRUTH, AND REAL EXPERIMENTAL/LITERATURE VALUES THAT ALL FARMERS MAY BENEFIT FROM. THERE IS NO "BEING CORRECT" IN THIS THREAD, THERE IS ONLY "PROVING CORRECTNESS."

Looking forward to your expertise. Thanks from down south in Fort Lauderdale

 

[squiggly]

Hey Squiggly, I'm trying to figure out the percentages of chemical salts in my nutrient mix. I have the labels of all the materials involved and I know exactly how much I've amended, I just need to in effect create a new NPK label. How might I go about it?

Add all your NPK numbers up, and divide them by the WEIGHTED amounts you have added.

So, lets say you add 1 part 1-1-1 and 2 parts 2-2-2

your new NPK is 1/2-1/2-1/2 + 2-2-2

or 2.5-2.5-2.5

Hope that helps (and I'm pretty sure it's right).

 

[squiggly]

Would you mind giving this Fasilitor thread a read and clarify a few things for us?

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/aptus-facilitator.48284/

Thanks Squiggly

That's quite a lot of reading, have any more specific questions?

 

[squiggly]

Hi Squiggly, Glad to see you back posting. I have always enjoyed your chemical knowledge and thanks for taking your time to post. Could you help me understand how to remove chloramines from tap water? I have read vitamin C will "remove" chloramines, but, I also read the process is short lived and lasts a day or two. What happens to the chlorine and ammonia with vitamin C? I read that Humic Acid will remove chloramines and I read that adding a handful of compost and bubbling will break down chloramines. I am looking for a reliable way to remove or breakdown the chloramine into something harmless to plants and soil. I grow organically in soil and am hoping to maintain a healthy soil. Thanks.

Chlorine can either evaporate out, or will stay in solution as ions. I'm not sure the mechanism of breakdown with vitamin C or I could be more specific (though I do know vitamin C in the correct amounts is effective at destroying the chloramines). The ammonia will do something similar and either evaporate off or remain as an ion in solution (again, I don't know the mechanism or I could be more clear).

The long and short of it is, once you've destroyed the chloramines with a proper amount of vitamin C and given some time for this evaporation to take place--you've nothing left to worry about.

 

[deacon1503]

That's quite a lot of reading, have any more specific questions?

Basically the relationship between silica dioxide and monosilicic acid. When adding a certain % of SiO2 into water, how do we determine the amount of resulting silicic acid? I'm trying to determine the product with the most bio-available silica which i understand is H4SiO4?

I'm currently using AgSil 16H (https://customhydronutrients.com/ze...icate-32-k2o-528-sio2-50-pound-bag-p-133.html) and wanting to know what the silicic acid content is?

Any insight would be awesome.

 

[squiggly]

Basically the relationship between silica dioxide and monosilicic acid. When adding a certain % of SiO2 into water, how do we determine the amount of resulting silicic acid? I'm trying to determine the product with the most bio-available silica which i understand is H4SiO4?

I'm currently using AgSil 16H (https://customhydronutrients.com/ze...icate-32-k2o-528-sio2-50-pound-bag-p-133.html) and wanting to know what the silicic acid content is?

Any insight would be awesome.

Well potassium sillicate is going to totally dissolve. So that's going to leave u with a bunch of SiO3 in solution.

This is going to form metasilicic acid H2SiO3.

this substance has pKa(1)=9.66 and pKa(2)=11.8

Enter the Henderson-Hesselbalch equation:

So let's assume pH of 7.

7 - 9.66 = log10([A-]/[HA])

-2.66 = log10([A-]/[HA])

10^-2.66 = [A-]/[HA]

[A-]/[HA] = 0.0021877

In other words, most of this stuff is going to stay in the form H2SiO3. the ratio of HSiO3- to H2SiO3 is 0.0021877.

This is assuming full solubility in water.

The more basic your initial pH, the more soluble the stuff will be. That's pretty much what the result is here. For extremely dilute concentrations you can assume full solubility (and that's how we would've come by these pKa numbers).

Hope that helps.

 

[caveman4.20]

What up squiggly! Jus saying what up. Hope everything is chingon!
Peace

 

[shaggyballs]

Hey squiggly

I had a question concerning Brassinolide

I wish to make a concentrated ready to use solution.

I was told it is unstable when mixed with water?
Is this true?
If so what is the shelf life once mixed?
Also could it be stabilized?

Thanks for helping everyone here!
shag

 

[squiggly]

Hey squiggly

I had a question concerning Brassinolide

I wish to make a concentrated ready to use solution.

I was told it is unstable when mixed with water?
Is this true?
If so what is the shelf life once mixed?
Also could it be stabilized?

Thanks for helping everyone here!
shag

I have no idea, wanna link me some info?

 

[shaggyballs]

I could send you some for testing....but there is not much info on the subject......the hearsay comes from a educated guess by a basement chemist.
He stated the substance had a lactone ring that may or may not regenerate!
hope that helps a bit.
shag