If you have chemistry questions....

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squiggly

squiggly

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Gets really exciting anywhere near gasoline...


It gets interesting under combustion conditions. It basically does the same thing that a supercharger/turbo does (provides oxygen under high pressure), but chemically.
 
Smallzz

Smallzz

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Thanks for the info Squiggly. I'm sure you already know it, but you're an invaluable resource to those of us here on the farm.

I'm pretty sure I'd get smarter if I just followed your posts for a day. I'm already planning on reading this whole thread.
 
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ttystikk

ttystikk

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HELP! I overdid an addition of Roots Organic's Extreme Serene. I still cut the listed application rate in half, but it's foaming at every point where I'm oxygenating my RDWC; airstones and the water return from the circulating pump.

If there something I can add to cut the foam, without interfering with nutrient or oxygen delivery?
 
Smallzz

Smallzz

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Just to add on to what ttystikk said, the Extreme Serene apparently has a wetting agent in it. I've been having a hard time finding documentation saying exactly how much, but some folks on the farm have posted that it's around 5ml per quart. Hope that helps!
 
squiggly

squiggly

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HELP! I overdid an addition of Roots Organic's Extreme Serene. I still cut the listed application rate in half, but it's foaming at every point where I'm oxygenating my RDWC; airstones and the water return from the circulating pump.

If there something I can add to cut the foam, without interfering with nutrient or oxygen delivery?


You can try adding some alcohol, but don't overdo it.

To clarify--ethanol.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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You can try adding some alcohol, but don't overdo it.

To clarify--ethanol.

Would vodka suffice, or do I need something more nautically oriented, perhaps some Captain Morgan? And how much would be 'overdoing it', not that I've ever overdone anything involving Captain Moron...
 
squiggly

squiggly

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Would vodka suffice, or do I need something more nautically oriented, perhaps some Captain Morgan? And how much would be 'overdoing it', not that I've ever overdone anything involving Captain Moron...


Everclear>Vodka>everything else.

Everything else has a bunch of shit in it--you're only after the polarity properties of the alcohol. You might even consider putting the stuff in a fine mist spray bottle and spraying it on the bubbles. This should cause them to collapse. If it doesn't, don't add any more. The sprayer will keep you from overdoing it.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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Would vodka suffice, or do I need something more nautically oriented, perhaps some Captain Morgan? And how much would be 'overdoing it', not that I've ever overdone anything involving Captain Moron...

I was almost going to post after squig's ethanol post that some years ago reefkeepers began adding vodka to their sumps (biological filtration). I couldn't tell you amounts, but I can tell you that I used to have a restaurant customer (big saltwater tank) whose tank crashed overnight with SUPER high NH4 levels. We figured some drunk customers thought they could also get fish drunk and poured some booze into the system, but back then I didn't know what it could do.

So, if you go low enough, you'll feed nitrifying microbes, that's the point.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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I was almost going to post after squig's ethanol post that some years ago reefkeepers began adding vodka to their sumps (biological filtration). I couldn't tell you amounts, but I can tell you that I used to have a restaurant customer (big saltwater tank) whose tank crashed overnight with SUPER high NH4 levels. We figured some drunk customers thought they could also get fish drunk and poured some booze into the system, but back then I didn't know what it could do.

So, if you go low enough, you'll feed nitrifying microbes, that's the point.

I'm really interested in the biological filtration techniques of fresh and salt water fishkeeping, because of the clear potential for hydroponics.
 
pussOGbrah

pussOGbrah

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Hey squiggly, great thread. Appreciate you taking ur time to help people out..
i've always been hesitant to use calcium chloride as a supplement in my nutrient solution. Since i'm hand feeding coco, i figure the chloride would kill off any fungi or beneficial bacterias in my medium..
But i was just thinking, if i mix the calcium chloride in water before the rest of my other nutes and let it circulate for a day or so before feeding, would all the chlorine evaporate out? Like some people do with tap? If it did, would I be left with a very good source of soluble calcium with any benni killing chlorine>?
This could potentially be much better than calcium carbonate because cal chloride wouldn't have carbonates that could build up in the medium..
Would really appreciate your insights on this..
 
squiggly

squiggly

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Hey squiggly, great thread. Appreciate you taking ur time to help people out..
i've always been hesitant to use calcium chloride as a supplement in my nutrient solution. Since i'm hand feeding coco, i figure the chloride would kill off any fungi or beneficial bacterias in my medium..
But i was just thinking, if i mix the calcium chloride in water before the rest of my other nutes and let it circulate for a day or so before feeding, would all the chlorine evaporate out? Like some people do with tap? If it did, would I be left with a very good source of soluble calcium with any benni killing chlorine>?
This could potentially be much better than calcium carbonate because cal chloride wouldn't have carbonates that could build up in the medium..
Would really appreciate your insights on this..


Chlorine gas will evaporate off, chloride ions will not. Chloride ions will also not necessarily kill fungi or bacteria. At high concentrations it will, but they are not deadly substances on their own.
 
THriveSeeds

THriveSeeds

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Great thread @squiggly tons of awesome info thanks for taking the time ;)
 
ftwendy

ftwendy

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Hey squiggs -- what do you clean your bong with? Any suggestions for a safe(r) solvent to soak a wax encrusted bong that has a 'showerhead' -style diffuser? The small holes are mostly clear, but a few remain clogged despite scalding hot water flushing with salt and sand after an alcohol soak. Now it's a sandy mess lol.

I'm always leery of the prepackaged solutions, so any thoughts on alternatives would be appreciated. Happy new year man
 
squiggly

squiggly

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Hey squiggs -- what do you clean your bong with? Any suggestions for a safe(r) solvent to soak a wax encrusted bong that has a 'showerhead' -style diffuser? The small holes are mostly clear, but a few remain clogged despite scalding hot water flushing with salt and sand after an alcohol soak. Now it's a sandy mess lol.

I'm always leery of the prepackaged solutions, so any thoughts on alternatives would be appreciated. Happy new year man

Alternate between strong acid and alcohol. If you had a safe way to heat the alcohol, that would be ideal.
 
ftwendy

ftwendy

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Roger. Thank you.

How strong on the acid and how hot for the alcohol?
 
Chronic Monster

Chronic Monster

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question for you squiggs.. when I was doing rdwc my buddy recommended pumping all the water out of the system, treat it with ozone and let sit for 15 mins then pump back in the system. he said it would be a quick supercharge of oxygen in the system and would also kill off everything. I never tried it, any thoughts.. is that even possible?
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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I can tell you it's possible. Reef and other fishkeepers often use O3 in order to kill off pathogens and parasites, as well as keep DO levels high. Care needs to be taken with O3 gennies. Folks have been using it for many years, decades, so I think the safety factor of the technology has likely improved. They used to be quite a hazard to have in the home, don't know if they are still so now.
 
squiggly

squiggly

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Roger. Thank you.

How strong on the acid and how hot for the alcohol?

Alcohol, not too hot. The hotter you get it the more it becomes an explosion hazard. Something like 85f would be fine, just need a little heat to help coax it (the water doesn't help because almost none of the stuff is soluble in it).

The acid, as strong as possible. Sulfuric is ideal--but please do be careful, you can probably get away with some pretty weak acid.

WEAR EYE PROTECTION.

WEAR LONG SLEEVES, FULL LENGTH PANTS, AND CLOSED TOE SHOES.

DO NOT WORK SITTING DOWN, STAND OVER A WAIST LEVEL WORKING SURFACE.
 
squiggly

squiggly

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question for you squiggs.. when I was doing rdwc my buddy recommended pumping all the water out of the system, treat it with ozone and let sit for 15 mins then pump back in the system. he said it would be a quick supercharge of oxygen in the system and would also kill off everything. I never tried it, any thoughts.. is that even possible?

Possible, but do not recommend.


I can tell you it's possible. Reef and other fishkeepers often use O3 in order to kill off pathogens and parasites, as well as keep DO levels high. Care needs to be taken with O3 gennies. Folks have been using it for many years, decades, so I think the safety factor of the technology has likely improved. They used to be quite a hazard to have in the home, don't know if they are still so now.

Ozone is a powerful oxidizer. Not particularly safe to work with, especially not indoors or in poorly ventilated areas. My opinion is just change the water out, no need to reinvent the wheel here.
 
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