Bulldog11
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I would foliar spray that. Not a root drench, personally.
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Hmm... that's a good question and it's not something I've ever done. But it seems to me that if you give it something it can use, it will, irrespective of how much has been applied. Try it!Sorry, @Seamaiden what I meant to ask was: if I foliar just a few of the leaves, will it be possible for them to show improvement without foliar-ing the entire plant? Not sure if I was clear enough about that in the last post.
IF it's a Mg-, then the yellowing should green back up in a few hours at most after giving via foliar application. If you can do foliar for this, that's what I would do here.
Has it been a year and a half, ALREADY???? :p :D
I think you're learning through all of this, one way or another.
I would foliar spray that. Not a root drench, personally.
All great points. You're right and great catch. Outdoors my RH is around 20-40% daily.
If you do a root drench keep it light, imo.
I foliar when growing inside, too. High RH isn't the "cause" of disease. ;) If you're really concerned about it, add isopropyl to the mix to help aide drying. I personally wouldn't be too terribly concerned about it, especially since you've got the salts mixed in there. JMO.Really? This late into flower? I thought it was "bad" to foliar once there's been significant flower development, because of the possibility of mold, I guess? I know I don't need to remind you and Seamaiden, but y'all are outside, I'm inside. Might there be a difference re: foliar-ing indoors vs outdoors when there's a decent amount of flowers? I mean, those Apollos are gonna be done in probably three weeks. Not sure if they're the ones exhibiting the Mg deficiency, I'll have to look tonight, but if they are.... I dunno, obviously, but a foliar this late... I dunno.
But y'all do, so if you say I should, I will haha!
And again, anybody following along, @Bulldog11 has had to deal with the same shit as Seamaiden haha. Pages and pages of pm's like this post.
Mineralization. You left a letter out. :) I call it eatin' & shittin'.
I foliar when growing inside, too. High RH isn't the "cause" of disease. ;) If you're really concerned about it, add isopropyl to the mix to help aide drying. I personally wouldn't be too terribly concerned about it, especially since you've got the salts mixed in there. JMO.
Lol, Mean Girls.....
So, lets just say your soil has 100% of everything you need. Lets say your PH is perfect, and everything should be available. If you were to get a soil test, it would be immaculate.
The things that have to happen for those nutrients to become available to the plant is a process called minerlization. This occurs when a bacteria consumes some organic matter, and later dies and releases this now minerlized nutrient. This nutrient is now plant available. So for your entire soil to be plant available, means you have to be minerlizing at an extreme rate. Indoors over a small grow, your soil just doesn't mature enough to develop a "perfect" soil. (IMO)
You can "trick" your plant into uptakeing these nutrients though a foliar feed. If you foliar without the enzyme cofactors in the soil, it wont help much. However if your PH is too high and locking out nutrients that require a low ph, then the only way for the plant to uptake those nutrients would be through a folair feed.
That is why I suggested foliar, because I believe those elements are all in your soil, and just need to be freed up. Adding more to the soil will help with the deficiency, however it throws your soil balance off. Unless you are deficient, which coots mix shouldn't be, however every mix is different with all the variances in products.
Hope that made sense, was strait off the top of my head. No notes, sorry if it wasn't clear.
@Minitiger
The Apache's never stretched as much as other lights. They some a high blue energy and limited deep red and it all helps with less stretch.
Now I get waht is very similar to hps now in relation to growth. A big boom at the flip, but never stretch out/lanky...just vigorous growth. I never had a problem with hps being strechy/lanky ever though either. So I compare the two best now. Apache has a definite difference.
For Mg, epsom better than anything. Foliar is the fastest way, it's very readily available.
I'll smoke ya out, k?But if my plants get fucked up, it's on you....
What format are you shooting in, and can you download GIMP and UFRaw onto your computer? If you're shooting in RAW format, I can work the red outta those using UFRaw in GIMP. It takes some playing with levels, but another great tweak is to learn how to use the white balance dropper thingy.Random Apollo pics. These look like they're gonna finish even quicker than the expected 49 day flowering period. Im assuming that it's because of the 11/13 light schedule. They look good though. I have GOT to figure out a way to get rid of the red in these pics, though. It's really making it difficult to see just how frosty everything's getting. Anyway....
Really sorry about how "shadow-y" these pics are. Like I said, I need to figure out this camera. We had these, like, professional photographers come into the restaurant I work at a couple days ago to take pics of various dishes and shit (I'm assuming the owners are gonna post them on our website or something), asked them how to get rid of the red in my pics, but, uh, they didn't really seem very interested in helping a brother out hahaha!!!! Anyway, I'll figure it out, hopefully. Also gonna stake the Apollos tonight, cuz they definitely need it.
What format are you shooting in, and can you download GIMP and UFRaw onto your computer? If you're shooting in RAW format, I can work the red outta those using UFRaw in GIMP. It takes some playing with levels, but another great tweak is to learn how to use the white balance dropper thingy.
Actually, thinking about it, I could probably get better color even if it's just a jpg or png format.
Those cats ain't gonna help you out, unless maybe you get them totally baked. Was there an opportunity for that?
Btw, I keep forgetting, you're in Pascal Baudar territory! He does wild foraging, fermenting, all KINDS of stuff to do with wild foods and he's down in the LA area. I've wanted to go on a walkabout with him, do one of his classes, something, but I can't really. Hold on, lemme link you his new book. His photos, which he does all himself, are seriously amazing, too.
http://www.amazon.com/New-Wildcraft...&qid=1454174089&sr=8-1&keywords=pascal+baudar
Ok, back to weed and photos. You can change the exposure setting, but know that the lighter areas will end up "blown out" and it's actually easier to retrieve information from an underexposed shot than from an overexposed shot.