Log In Register

Bodhi Apollo 11f4 And Other Strains

  • Thread starter Thread starter Minitiger
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Bodhi Apollo 11f4 And Other Strains

Minitiger 266 Replies 35,749 Views
Page 4 of 14 · Replies 61–80 of 267
Sorry, @Seamaiden what I meant to ask was: if I foliar just a few of the leaves, will it be possible for them to show improvement without foliar-ing the entire plant? Not sure if I was clear enough about that in the last post.
Hmm... that's a good question and it's not something I've ever done. But it seems to me that if you give it something it can use, it will, irrespective of how much has been applied. Try it!
 
IF it's a Mg-, then the yellowing should green back up in a few hours at most after giving via foliar application. If you can do foliar for this, that's what I would do here.

Has it been a year and a half, ALREADY???? :p :D

I think you're learning through all of this, one way or another.

I think it may be even longer than that. I just wanted to make it seem like less time so that not everybody would know how long I've been dragging my feet to get started on this grow. All scared and shit.... Hahaha!!!
 
I would foliar spray that. Not a root drench, personally.

Really? This late into flower? I thought it was "bad" to foliar once there's been significant flower development, because of the possibility of mold, I guess? I know I don't need to remind you and Seamaiden, but y'all are outside, I'm inside. Might there be a difference re: foliar-ing indoors vs outdoors when there's a decent amount of flowers? I mean, those Apollos are gonna be done in probably three weeks. Not sure if they're the ones exhibiting the Mg deficiency, I'll have to look tonight, but if they are.... I dunno, obviously, but a foliar this late... I dunno.

But y'all do, so if you say I should, I will haha!

And again, anybody following along, @Bulldog11 has had to deal with the same shit as Seamaiden haha. Pages and pages of pm's like this post.
 
All great points. You're right and great catch. Outdoors my RH is around 20-40% daily.

If you do a root drench keep it light, imo.

Yeah, my RH hovers around 50%, give or take. Already got the Epsom salt, I'll drench with it tomorrow night when I water. And I'll definitely go light with it.

One thing I don't understand (and again, this is something I'd ordinarily pm you about, but maybe it'll help someone else, too): if all the minerals, nutrients, elements whatever etc are present in Coots' mix, how come my plants have shown occasional deficiencies? There was that one time early in veg with micro nutes (which was obviously the problem, since one foliar with tm7 fixed that right up) and now with the Mg. I know there's probably a billion different responses to that question, but yeah, just wondering....

I feel like I'm about to go on a reading binge to try to figure some shit out, but honestly, I'm so fucking sick of reading about weed growin' right now hahaha!!! I literally just got done watching that movie "Mean Girls" and "Bring It On" started right after (never seen it) and I swear to gawd, I'm sitting here thinking it might be better to blaze again and watch some stupid shit for a while, rather than try to educate myself. I'm over trying to educate myself at the moment haha.

Or maybe "Mean Girls" is influencing me and making me be all dramatic and shit. Hurumph....
 
Lol, Mean Girls.....

So, lets just say your soil has 100% of everything you need. Lets say your PH is perfect, and everything should be available. If you were to get a soil test, it would be immaculate.

The things that have to happen for those nutrients to become available to the plant is a process called minerlization. This occurs when a bacteria consumes some organic matter, and later dies and releases this now minerlized nutrient. This nutrient is now plant available. So for your entire soil to be plant available, means you have to be minerlizing at an extreme rate. Indoors over a small grow, your soil just doesn't mature enough to develop a "perfect" soil. (IMO)

You can "trick" your plant into uptakeing these nutrients though a foliar feed. If you foliar without the enzyme cofactors in the soil, it wont help much. However if your PH is too high and locking out nutrients that require a low ph, then the only way for the plant to uptake those nutrients would be through a folair feed.

That is why I suggested foliar, because I believe those elements are all in your soil, and just need to be freed up. Adding more to the soil will help with the deficiency, however it throws your soil balance off. Unless you are deficient, which coots mix shouldn't be, however every mix is different with all the variances in products.

Hope that made sense, was strait off the top of my head. No notes, sorry if it wasn't clear.
 
Mineralization. You left a letter out. :) I call it eatin' & shittin'.
Really? This late into flower? I thought it was "bad" to foliar once there's been significant flower development, because of the possibility of mold, I guess? I know I don't need to remind you and Seamaiden, but y'all are outside, I'm inside. Might there be a difference re: foliar-ing indoors vs outdoors when there's a decent amount of flowers? I mean, those Apollos are gonna be done in probably three weeks. Not sure if they're the ones exhibiting the Mg deficiency, I'll have to look tonight, but if they are.... I dunno, obviously, but a foliar this late... I dunno.

But y'all do, so if you say I should, I will haha!

And again, anybody following along, @Bulldog11 has had to deal with the same shit as Seamaiden haha. Pages and pages of pm's like this post.
I foliar when growing inside, too. High RH isn't the "cause" of disease. ;) If you're really concerned about it, add isopropyl to the mix to help aide drying. I personally wouldn't be too terribly concerned about it, especially since you've got the salts mixed in there. JMO.
 
@Minitiger
The Apache's never stretched as much as other lights. They some a high blue energy and limited deep red and it all helps with less stretch.
Now I get waht is very similar to hps now in relation to growth. A big boom at the flip, but never stretch out/lanky...just vigorous growth. I never had a problem with hps being strechy/lanky ever though either. So I compare the two best now. Apache has a definite difference.

For Mg, epsom better than anything. Foliar is the fastest way, it's very readily available.
 
Mineralization. You left a letter out. :) I call it eatin' & shittin'.

I foliar when growing inside, too. High RH isn't the "cause" of disease. ;) If you're really concerned about it, add isopropyl to the mix to help aide drying. I personally wouldn't be too terribly concerned about it, especially since you've got the salts mixed in there. JMO.

I am concerned, no doubt about it, but mostly cuz I don't wanna get up at 530 tomorrow morning to foliar haha. I usually just wake up around then, without an alarm, but for some reason, lately I've really been wanting to sleep in until like 7 or 730. Gotta be the winter weather.

Anyway, I think I'm gonna foliar. I only work two days this week, so.... I can sleep in the other four days, I guess. Reeeeaaallllyyyyy nervous about it, though. I feel like I should drench, but the Apollos are showing the Mg deficiency and they're very obviously gonna be finished by the middle of February. I don't wanna wait like a week or ten days for the Mg in the Epsom salts to be available to the plants (which is about how long it'd take if I drenched, right?) if I'm gonna chop them twenty days from now.

Or, er, something.... Haha!

So yeah, I'll probably foliar tomorrow morning before the light turns off.

But if my plants get fucked up, it's on you....

Hahahaha!!! Just kidding!
 
Last edited:
Lol, Mean Girls.....

So, lets just say your soil has 100% of everything you need. Lets say your PH is perfect, and everything should be available. If you were to get a soil test, it would be immaculate.

The things that have to happen for those nutrients to become available to the plant is a process called minerlization. This occurs when a bacteria consumes some organic matter, and later dies and releases this now minerlized nutrient. This nutrient is now plant available. So for your entire soil to be plant available, means you have to be minerlizing at an extreme rate. Indoors over a small grow, your soil just doesn't mature enough to develop a "perfect" soil. (IMO)

You can "trick" your plant into uptakeing these nutrients though a foliar feed. If you foliar without the enzyme cofactors in the soil, it wont help much. However if your PH is too high and locking out nutrients that require a low ph, then the only way for the plant to uptake those nutrients would be through a folair feed.

That is why I suggested foliar, because I believe those elements are all in your soil, and just need to be freed up. Adding more to the soil will help with the deficiency, however it throws your soil balance off. Unless you are deficient, which coots mix shouldn't be, however every mix is different with all the variances in products.

Hope that made sense, was strait off the top of my head. No notes, sorry if it wasn't clear.

Yeah, that made sense. See the above post for my thoughts re: foliar-ing, but I guess I'm gonna do it. And like I said to @Seamaiden if this fucks up my plants, it's on you!

And again, like I said to Sea, I'm totally fucking kidding. Live and learn..... Hopefully. If we're lucky.
 
@Minitiger
The Apache's never stretched as much as other lights. They some a high blue energy and limited deep red and it all helps with less stretch.
Now I get waht is very similar to hps now in relation to growth. A big boom at the flip, but never stretch out/lanky...just vigorous growth. I never had a problem with hps being strechy/lanky ever though either. So I compare the two best now. Apache has a definite difference.

For Mg, epsom better than anything. Foliar is the fastest way, it's very readily available.

You know what else I just thought of? When you said "a big bloom at the flip"? For the last two weeks of veg, I reduced the lighting to 14/10, just to "ease" them into flower, so that there wouldn't be this, like,"Holy shit! We were just getting 16 hours of light, now we're immediately getting 12 hours of light!"-type reaction from the plants. I wonder if decreasing the light schedule, coupled with the Apache's spectrum, may have really made the switch much more "comfortable" (for lack of a better word) for the plants.

I'm not kidding, there has been very little stretch with any of these. Wasn't expecting that at all. But now I know for next time....
 
Random Apollo pics. These look like they're gonna finish even quicker than the expected 49 day flowering period. Im assuming that it's because of the 11/13 light schedule. They look good though. I have GOT to figure out a way to get rid of the red in these pics, though. It's really making it difficult to see just how frosty everything's getting. Anyway....
IMG 1935


IMG 1936


IMG 1937


IMG 1938


IMG 1939


IMG 1940


Really sorry about how "shadow-y" these pics are. Like I said, I need to figure out this camera. We had these, like, professional photographers come into the restaurant I work at a couple days ago to take pics of various dishes and shit (I'm assuming the owners are gonna post them on our website or something), asked them how to get rid of the red in my pics, but, uh, they didn't really seem very interested in helping a brother out hahaha!!!! Anyway, I'll figure it out, hopefully. Also gonna stake the Apollos tonight, cuz they definitely need it.
 
Here are the two Prayer Towers. Pretty obvious just how different their growth rates are, right? The one on the right looks like it's gonna yield pretty fucking well. I reeeeeallllyyyyy wish I hadn't topped these, just so I could get a better idea on, uh, how they grow, I guess. Either way, I'm not unhappy haha.
IMG 1942


Another side-by-side shot. Sorry about the shadows.
IMG 1943


Close-up of one of the Prayer Towers, the bigger one. Despite the red lighting, you can see just how frosty this one is. And this one still has at least four more weeks to go, probably.
IMG 1944


Close-up of the smaller Prayer Tower:
IMG 1945
 
Here's one of the Goldstars, the bigger of the two. I think this one is gonna yield reeeallyyyy well. It's also probably gonna take at least another five weeks to finish, but maybe not.
IMG 1946


And a couple of shitty close-ups. The resin on this one is very fine, very kind of "sandy" looking. Or maybe dusty would be a more accurate description. Looks very Sativa-ish. The resin, I mean, not the plant.
IMG 1947


IMG 1948
 
Random Apollo pics. These look like they're gonna finish even quicker than the expected 49 day flowering period. Im assuming that it's because of the 11/13 light schedule. They look good though. I have GOT to figure out a way to get rid of the red in these pics, though. It's really making it difficult to see just how frosty everything's getting. Anyway....

Really sorry about how "shadow-y" these pics are. Like I said, I need to figure out this camera. We had these, like, professional photographers come into the restaurant I work at a couple days ago to take pics of various dishes and shit (I'm assuming the owners are gonna post them on our website or something), asked them how to get rid of the red in my pics, but, uh, they didn't really seem very interested in helping a brother out hahaha!!!! Anyway, I'll figure it out, hopefully. Also gonna stake the Apollos tonight, cuz they definitely need it.
What format are you shooting in, and can you download GIMP and UFRaw onto your computer? If you're shooting in RAW format, I can work the red outta those using UFRaw in GIMP. It takes some playing with levels, but another great tweak is to learn how to use the white balance dropper thingy.

Actually, thinking about it, I could probably get better color even if it's just a jpg or png format.

Those cats ain't gonna help you out, unless maybe you get them totally baked. Was there an opportunity for that?

Btw, I keep forgetting, you're in Pascal Baudar territory! He does wild foraging, fermenting, all KINDS of stuff to do with wild foods and he's down in the LA area. I've wanted to go on a walkabout with him, do one of his classes, something, but I can't really. Hold on, lemme link you his new book. His photos, which he does all himself, are seriously amazing, too.

http://www.amazon.com/New-Wildcraft...&qid=1454174089&sr=8-1&keywords=pascal+baudar

Ok, back to weed and photos. You can change the exposure setting, but know that the lighter areas will end up "blown out" and it's actually easier to retrieve information from an underexposed shot than from an overexposed shot.
 
Ok, I've done some futzing. I can't find a gamma adjustment in GIMP anymore, the GUI has changed a bit. But I used automatic white balance then played with color balance a bit until I got something that I *think* looks more realistic. Because this is just a jpg, I can't really dig into exposure and stuff like that, that's where RAW format is best.

Tell me what you think, @Minitiger

IMG 1947
 
Clusterfunk. This one is really starting to fill out with nice, sort of OG-ish bugs. I wasn't too impressed with this one at first, but I get more impressed with it every day. It's kind of bushy or leafy or whatever. Really big fan leaves and stuff, too. Not sure if this one would have performed better un-topped, but whatever. Still looks good to me.
IMG 1955


Close-up of the Clusterfunk. Sorry it's a little blurry.
IMG 1953


And another random Prayer Tower shot. Frosty....
IMG 1952


Aaaaaand another Prayer Tower close-up. Really digging this one.
IMG 1951
IMG 1951


The tent....
IMG 1949
 
What format are you shooting in, and can you download GIMP and UFRaw onto your computer? If you're shooting in RAW format, I can work the red outta those using UFRaw in GIMP. It takes some playing with levels, but another great tweak is to learn how to use the white balance dropper thingy.

Actually, thinking about it, I could probably get better color even if it's just a jpg or png format.

Those cats ain't gonna help you out, unless maybe you get them totally baked. Was there an opportunity for that?

Btw, I keep forgetting, you're in Pascal Baudar territory! He does wild foraging, fermenting, all KINDS of stuff to do with wild foods and he's down in the LA area. I've wanted to go on a walkabout with him, do one of his classes, something, but I can't really. Hold on, lemme link you his new book. His photos, which he does all himself, are seriously amazing, too.

http://www.amazon.com/New-Wildcraft...&qid=1454174089&sr=8-1&keywords=pascal+baudar

Ok, back to weed and photos. You can change the exposure setting, but know that the lighter areas will end up "blown out" and it's actually easier to retrieve information from an underexposed shot than from an overexposed shot.

Hahahahaha!!!!! Do you really actually think I know what "format" I'm shooting in??? Dude, I am such a fucking idiot when it comes to anything camera or computer-related. I have no clue at all what format I'm shooting in. I can't even download the pics to my computer! Haha! I have to have my girl do that for me.

That pic you messed with does look better, though. The red's gone, that's for sure. I'm in my backyard right now on an iPad, but I'll take a look at it on my desktop in a second. We have two of those, like, gigantic computer screens set up next to each other (my girl does a lot of the graphic design stuff for her company, along with like eight other jobs haha, so we've got a pretty sweet setup). I'll ask her if she knows what GIMP and RAW are, too.

I have messed with exposures and the white balance and stuff, but I'm one of those people who gets annoyed after a couple of minutes of fucking with shit like that and just go,"I fucking hate technology!" and quit trying to mess with it. I'll figure it out, though.
 
Page 4 of 14 · Replies 61–80 of 267
Back
Top Bottom