Lazerus00
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no i have not but i will now when lights go on....what do you suggest i look for?? Or just that everything is as it should be and there is no brown/black roots or other weird shit?
MGRox
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@Lazerus00 hmmm 6.2 aye? Kinda surprised there. Guess that's the bottom of the range for soil right? 6.2-6.8. Though your issue is not low pH as you'd have the edges curled up as you had last year: https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/tnelz-thread-about-whatever.66628/page-70#post-1436533
Definitely wasn't expecting overwatering or compaction; just was relaying how I'd sort through it.
No matter what (unless in a state of adaptation); growth is limited by liebig's law of minimum. (which includes 6 factors affecting plant growth and yield; : air, water, light, temperature, soil or media and nutrients).
If we are to assume that air, water, light and temp are correct; this just leaves medium or nutrients. With the medium we can look at moisture, porosity, saturated air percentage, pH, pathogens. Otherwise we are left with nutrients.
With nutrients, organics are often separated from chemical relative to availability or speed of availability. Organic compounds being more complex tend to take a bit more time to be uptaken or are uptaken at a slower rate. However salinity as a whole still relates to osmotic pressure; which affects transpiration. To these ends;
http://plantsinaction.science.uq.edu.au/edition1/?q=content/17-1-3-solutes-and-osmotic-pressure
"The osmotic pressure of a solution can be calculated from solute concentration per litre (or per kilogram) of water . With organic compounds such as sucrose that do not dissociate into ions in water, osmolality (osmoles per litre of water) is the same as molality (moles per litre of water), which is almost the same as the more familiar term molarity (moles per litre of solution). At 100 mM, the discrepancy between molality and osmolarity is only about 1%."
http://www.zobodat.at/pdf/PHY_18_1_2_0071-0078.pdf (test done in outdoor soil)
"The results obtained indicate that the plant salinity and osmotic pressure values changed linearly with changes of the salinity and osmotic pressure of the soil. On the other hand, the loss of water by the transpiration of the plant decreased with an increase in the salinity and osmotic pressure of the medium and plant."
So Increasing salinity, increases osmotic pressure which decreases transpiration. Just like with salts and EC; differing compounds have differing osmotic pressure coefficients, so are not specifically the same. However, in all cases a higher solute concentration will have less net water transpired vs the same solute at a lower concentration. While an organic nutrient at XX concentration is less likely to burn; it may well have a similar OPC (osmotic pressure coefficient) and thus alter water uptake similarly to chemical.
I don't know that flushing works the same in organic vs chemical as an increase in moisture will also net an increase in new compounds available. I know it's generally not done and I would not have experience to suggest here. Though your plants have already gone through the adjustment period; so it is most likely a matter of time for them to get the salinity down and increase growth. Again I would watch for more of the S- as it directly limits N uptake (the largest growth contributor), but would still hesitate to add it just yet.
Guess too plants have the tendency to show deficiencies of elements (that they otherwise would not) when returning to normal soil solute levels; from previous times of being high.
Definitely wasn't expecting overwatering or compaction; just was relaying how I'd sort through it.
No matter what (unless in a state of adaptation); growth is limited by liebig's law of minimum. (which includes 6 factors affecting plant growth and yield; : air, water, light, temperature, soil or media and nutrients).
If we are to assume that air, water, light and temp are correct; this just leaves medium or nutrients. With the medium we can look at moisture, porosity, saturated air percentage, pH, pathogens. Otherwise we are left with nutrients.
With nutrients, organics are often separated from chemical relative to availability or speed of availability. Organic compounds being more complex tend to take a bit more time to be uptaken or are uptaken at a slower rate. However salinity as a whole still relates to osmotic pressure; which affects transpiration. To these ends;
http://plantsinaction.science.uq.edu.au/edition1/?q=content/17-1-3-solutes-and-osmotic-pressure
"The osmotic pressure of a solution can be calculated from solute concentration per litre (or per kilogram) of water . With organic compounds such as sucrose that do not dissociate into ions in water, osmolality (osmoles per litre of water) is the same as molality (moles per litre of water), which is almost the same as the more familiar term molarity (moles per litre of solution). At 100 mM, the discrepancy between molality and osmolarity is only about 1%."
http://www.zobodat.at/pdf/PHY_18_1_2_0071-0078.pdf (test done in outdoor soil)
"The results obtained indicate that the plant salinity and osmotic pressure values changed linearly with changes of the salinity and osmotic pressure of the soil. On the other hand, the loss of water by the transpiration of the plant decreased with an increase in the salinity and osmotic pressure of the medium and plant."
So Increasing salinity, increases osmotic pressure which decreases transpiration. Just like with salts and EC; differing compounds have differing osmotic pressure coefficients, so are not specifically the same. However, in all cases a higher solute concentration will have less net water transpired vs the same solute at a lower concentration. While an organic nutrient at XX concentration is less likely to burn; it may well have a similar OPC (osmotic pressure coefficient) and thus alter water uptake similarly to chemical.
I don't know that flushing works the same in organic vs chemical as an increase in moisture will also net an increase in new compounds available. I know it's generally not done and I would not have experience to suggest here. Though your plants have already gone through the adjustment period; so it is most likely a matter of time for them to get the salinity down and increase growth. Again I would watch for more of the S- as it directly limits N uptake (the largest growth contributor), but would still hesitate to add it just yet.
Guess too plants have the tendency to show deficiencies of elements (that they otherwise would not) when returning to normal soil solute levels; from previous times of being high.
Lazerus00
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MGRox
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oh xD. I just searched for "Soil" and "pH" and tagged user seamaiden. I was surprised to see that she'd replied to this thread; just happened to be yours lol.
Pimp T
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Na I'm thinkin its the soil. BAS had a bunch of guys complaining about the high k. as a matter of fact @midwestdensies got some shitty bags that had his shit lookin fucked up. I put seeds in full strength coots a few times never had one problem. if your water doesn't have high ppms if you have no root problems andyour ph is good it has to be the mix @Lazerus00
Pimp T
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I don't flushing will help up potting is probably the best thing to do. I'm actually considering lettin coots mix go too much of a pain to source materials and mix. plus my last run in promix and veg + bloom came out tastier and more fragrant just not as smooth of a smoke as coots mix grown go figure. and if I'm still measuring out silica fulvic acid coconut water n aloe n shit to water with. I might as well just be adding 5gs per gallon of v+b and watering. @Lazerus00
Lazerus00
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so took the plants out of the pro cells just to check the roots and they are alive and healthy looking but there just is not a ton of them.(@Growin Grass )...Okay so lets say that this bag of soil is shit and has high k or whatever might be wrong with it....could the account for the crazy slow growth>??? Also if it were you what would you do?? You think I should just re pot using my own soil mix now and see what happens??? Or should I ride it out and just feed plain water for a while and see what happens??
Lazerus00
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last question was for anyone here that wants to give their opinion!! Please and thank you!!!
SeaF0ur
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What do you expect? Freemasonry and Jewish Bolshevism won WW2...
All you have to do is look at what happened in Berlin after WW1...
You will quickly see what has been happening to the rest of the world since WW2.
as they say... history repeats for those who dont pay attention...
...for those of us that do, we watch history repeat powerless and knowing the outcomes....
ya dont start a baby off on T-Bone steaks.... I use just EWC & rice hulls for seedlings.
that poor little girl will be the next "hannah montana" that turns into a britney spears... mark my words.
Stumpy420
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ok guys so m y seedlings are only 3 1/2" tall, but are already showing their 3rd node. a couple of them stretched up a little more, which the leaves look more sativa like then the rest, slightly slower node development. germinated on March 1 so they are two weeks old. does that sound about normal speed of growth? @SeaF0ur on the seedling that is farthest along in development the internode spacing is super small, like a half of a cm.
the flower room was damn loud smellin! I think the tent makes it worse, I guess I'm gonna have to get a can fan. p.s. sorry for the shitty pics.
Will this ever fill in?
the flower room was damn loud smellin! I think the tent makes it worse, I guess I'm gonna have to get a can fan. p.s. sorry for the shitty pics.
Will this ever fill in?
Pimp T
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I'm ocd about my shit having zero deficiencies so if it was me I'd ditch that shit and restart. but I'm goin from clone so the restart wouldn't set me back to far. @Lazerus00
midwestdensies
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BaS soil? Out the bag? If so garbage. Two runs with it and I'm actually going to ask for my money back or credit. Hope they fix their expensive ass shitty soil. Their website shows the test. Shows how shitty it is. They posted the proof. Dumbasses
Ned Kelly
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K bro like them fellas had a rough ride gunna happen when u intriduce new lighting but there had 2 decent shock periods and i think u maybe loving them to much for there stage . Like id take two weeks off for each shock light close . Light change (for blue to full spectrum ) lot to go through for some little dudes . Yove decided to stay with them and i sure hope they dont herm out . Me i do plain water sparingly and my recovery brew molasses 1 teaspoom to a gallon whatever microbial bac stuff your using and some house and garden amino . Yep its a xy but it not just an amino its a very decent organic growth booster . I swear by it . Feed that for two weeks and see where ur at . Like if they havnt kicked on kick em go again . Just IMO
Growin Grass
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I'm just learning how to grow myself but I'd say either keep them in what you have or start something new, transplanting them now is just going to slow you down even more. If it's excess k or at least in the case of langbinite it's like salt so maybe a good flush would help
No way to say without testing you mix though, you might be able to call the mfg and ask if they've had any other complaints with that batch...
Lazerus00
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i hear ya and believe me i wont do it again but how do i fix it now? just wait it out or put it in a seedling mix now? orrr?
also could tthis cause the crazy slow growth?
Lazerus00
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lol....thanks for tellng me how it wouldnt be a big deal for you....hahahahahha dick!
Lazerus00
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welll i made the same mistake but i had bought 5 bags and the first 4 my girls were happy as could be it just this last bag....but believe me i wont buy ssoil from them again, i got almost a yard of my own soil i made in my garage just waiting to be used
Lazerus00
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THANK YOU FOR INFO AND ADVICE....and not just telling me my soil is garbage and i fucked up....lol.....
Lazerus00
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the soil i mixed up myself in my garage that is similar to coots mix but its from Anbessa and has some xtra stuff in it....is there an expiration date or some time i should use it by????
Lazerus00
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Holy crap is my new Raptor Dual Bulb XXXL hood freaking HUGE...lol...it almost takes upp all 5x5 of my ceiling space...lol...So for now the highest i can get it is so that the glass sits right at 5ft of the tent floor but I am sure after a trip to the hardware store ill be able to find something low profile to replace the v hooks that come standard with hoods. I am sure ill find something that works but if anyone knows of anything or has any suggesting on something i can replace them with to make it so i can get my hood closer to the ceiling of the tent just hollr....
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