The History of OG Kush

[THELORAX802]

Is second from the bottom a graft? Very nice regardless. i wouldnt mind some wired supports like those! and bumblee bee yellow too! how kool!

 

[Natural]

Is second from the bottom a graft? Very nice regardless. i wouldnt mind some wired supports like those! and bumblee bee yellow too! how kool!

no graft..just where she got topped and showing the 'trait' on some small node leafs..a deficiency.
Cages are nice for stout hybrids in a perpetual especially when ya cut the bottom rung off.. Not ideal for og that needs more support..will have to add stakes and probably a hair net.

 

[Judaz]

Sorry bud got busy..I don't archive like I used to..I surely don't have her dialed yet by any means. Only thing I got to show right now is a freshly flipped plant. Just got her this fall and haven't played with it much. You can go to Green Angel and grab a sample if you're in the area. Or be patient with me. I'm not in socal.
She likes her dry times like most og's. She's on a dry down so she's not really praying atm.
I'd say her look in general reminds me of that chem fam look, that stardawg and wifi have. They say the best og is the one you can dial. It took Loompa 4 years before he figured out his HB cut..lol. This one is no exception..pretty picky plant..any parameters off a little and she goes sideways pretty quick. I'd say the nugs are classic old school OG..not really lemon pinesol or lemon pledge..just that sort of cheesy sweet OG funk..like clean perfume..a bit earthy like LHB but really not as gasoline just lighter and sweeter. I'm not really good with explaining smells. I'm sure things will change the better I do with her. Be patient with me and I'll show some nugs when they pop. Smoke is smooth..but very expansive. I'd say Loompa's HB seems stronger..like lhb gives your head that diesel feeling..this one has a lighter feel to it..but it has that narcotic body relax and the feeling like if you move to quick you might throw up.
I be testing alot of others right now too..and I really don't crop OG..just a bit for the head really. TK and LHB for sure..got some High Octane clones..I've heard it called Heirloom OG, so I'm curious about it. Jews..Face Off..BTY on the list to try too.

you can see the troubled bottom leaves and the ram horn node leafs. I'd say it'll take me a few rounds to figure her out. Pretty de-leafed here. She's not super fast stretchy like LHB..more bushy..like I don't need to pinch alot for her to bush out..nice big long leaves before defoliate

View attachment 649228 View attachment 649229 View attachment 649230 View attachment 649231

You should try my formula technique and nutes which will help you dial her in and maximize quality. Read my previous post where I give my formula. Dialing in a strain requires you to use the proper npk ratios at the right weeks while you aim to balance ppm in with ppm run off. Keeping your plant adrinking nutes as happy as possible to the give environment that she is grown in.

 

[Natural]

You should try my formula technique and nutes which will help you dial her in and maximize quality. Read my previous post where I give my formula. Dialing in a strain requires you to use the proper npk ratios at the right weeks while you aim to balance ppm in with ppm run off. Keeping your plant adrinking nutes as happy as possible to the give environment that she is grown in.

I read that. Are those numbers the 500 TDS scale or the 700?..I go by EC. most of my plants max out at peak around 1.8 EC in peat. Most everything blows out pretty hard..maybe even too hard. Sooner or later..I'll have tables devoted to just OG I'm sure. Right now, I've usually got at least a dozen different type plants going at any moment. Trying to group them together with feeding needs. I could run sour d and lhb together np. wifi 43 and Chemdog 91 together..etc. I'll get her figured out. She has that hash plant texture like the skva has..it's a nice plant.

 

[Wildill]

@Judaz have you tried triangle kush if so how does it compare to your Og?

 

[Judaz]

I read that. Are those numbers the 500 TDS scale or the 700?..I go by EC. most of my plants max out at peak around 1.8 EC in peat. Most everything blows out pretty hard..maybe even too hard. Sooner or later..I'll have tables devoted to just OG I'm sure. Right now, I've usually got at least a dozen different type plants going at any moment. Trying to group them together with feeding needs. I could run sour d and lhb together np. wifi 43 and Chemdog 91 together..etc. I'll get her figured out. She has that hash plant texture like the skva has..it's a nice plant.

They are for 500 tds scale. I max her out at around 2 ec for digital ballast 1000 watt hoods and around 2.3-2.4 ec for gavita 1000 watts. The idea when following a nutrient program is to only use it as a guideline for the proper NPK ratios between you A/B and your bloom booster. But you must listen to your plants ppm runoff to tell you at what ppm it wants to be fed at. For example, you make a week 4 mix and it ends up at 2 ec. Then you feed your plant and the runoff comes back at 2 ec. This means that the plant is happy and in balance and that you are at the correct nutrient strength. But lets say the runoff comes back at 1.8 ec. This means that your plant needs a higher nutrient strength to be at balance. So the next mix you adjust it by bringing up the ec to say 2.1. You just increase your A/B and bloom booster in the same ratios. For example if I use 500 ml of A/B and 400 ml of Big Bud (Bloom Booster) for my week 5 mix. Notice that Big Bud is at the ratio of 80% of 100% of the A/B Ml. And I need to go for 600 ml of A/B then I must increase my big bud to 80% of 600 which is 480 ml now. All the other additives stay the same. Just adjust your A/B and your bloom booster to bring the ppm up or down using the same ratios. The other scenario is when you feed 2 ec and it comes back at 2.2 ec. Then this means that your plant cannot handle that current ec and you must bring her down. For example to 1.8 ec. Lets assume that it requires you to do 400 ml of A/B instead of 500 so my big bud amount should be 80% of 400 which is 320. Plants take up nutrients depending on the environment they are in. How hot and humid the room is. Are you using Co2 or not. How intense the light is.

To give you an example. My new 10 Light Gavita room covers a 242 sq ft area where I have 3x3 lights in the center and the tenth light on the bottom corner. I usually would do 5x2 over a 240 sq ft area for 10 light gavita room but I did not have the depth for this room. So I had to get creative to maximize cross lighting and placing that 10th light on a corner to get the most out of wall reflection. I noticed that the plants in the middle rows started getting more yellow much faster then they would normally do. Especially this one that I've attached a picture for. So I fed that one first at 1.8 ec. Anc collected the runoff like the pic attached. And then I fed the others with the same ec and let that go into the res. Sure enough I noticed that the one that was looking the worse came back at 1.6 ec while the others came back at 1.7 ec. I adjusted that single plant by giving it 2.0 ec until the runoff came back at 1.9 ec. So I noticed that the middle tables were balancing at 1.9 ec while the outer tables are balancing at 1.6 ec. So I make a mix at 1.9 ec feed the middle and then add more RO water to the res to bring it to 1.6 ec to do the side tables. This how you dial in a room for your strain. Nutrient schedules are just a guide line to follow. But you the green thumb must know when to make the necessary changes to keep your plants ppm runoff in balance for the specific micro environment for that space in your room.

 

[Judaz]

How to pull max weight and Quality for OG Kush.

You must have the proper light intensity with the right canopy structure & plant height. You must create a completely sealed controllable environment that controls temperature, humidity and air flow & that is enriched with the proper CO2 levels at the right temperatures. Nutrients are secondary to the above. If you don't have the above dialed in, the your nutrients will not work to their full potential.

Use a strong AC unit for complete control. This is a 5 ton I use for my 10 light Gavita room.
View attachment 648701
Use a CO2 generator to produce CO2. I prefer this method over hauling in heavy CO2 tanks every week
View attachment 648702
Use dehumidifiers to control humidity and wall fans to move the air properly. Also use floor fans to move air in the bottom of the canopy. In the wild cannabis won't pay much attention to bud sites that get no proper air flow and light intensity
View attachment 648704
Use a charcoal filter from the top to remove extra humidity and heat from and to scrub your air once or twice during day cycle.
View attachment 648707
Use tables with rollers to easily get in to your canopy and make sure to collect the runoff under each table to make sure that ppm and ph are optimal for the week of your flowering cycle. Weeks 1-2 aim for run off ph 6.0-6.4 for nitrogen needed for expansive growth. Weeks 3-4 aim for 5.8-6.0 run off ph to make sure that they get the necessary phosphorus to develop more bud sites. After that you can keep runoff around 6.0 - 6.2. I usually aim for 5.5 ph when mixing my nutes to balance out the rockwool. Sometimes you may need to go a little lower to bring down ph.
View attachment 648708

Aim to create an even canopy structure, especially when using Gavita lights. When I first used them, I under estimated their power and placed them to close to my tops which caused my buds to get light burn and fox tail. Keep them around 40-42 inches from the tops. For Digital ballast with hortilux bulbs I usually keep them between 18-24 inches from the top of canopy. Preferably closer to 18 if your plants can manage the heat.
View attachment 648711

Setup:

Digital ballast:
You need a complete sealed environment with CO2 enrichment to pull 1 gram per watt using 1000 watt digital ballasts with HPS hortilux bulbs. Use a 4x4 foot area (16 aquare feet) for each light and use 6-9 plants per light. I like to use 9 per light on a 3-4 week veg cycle. I usually top them twice (I use these cuts to make clones) to create more shoots and don't let your plants get over crowded during veg or else they will stretch. Veg with metal halide bulbs. Start them at 600 watts and then slowly get them to 1000 watts by middle of week 2.

Gavita setup:

Gavitas can nicely light a 24 square foot area per 1000 watts. This room above is a 10 light Gavita Pro setup covering a 240 canopy square foot space. It would take 15 1000 watt digital ballasts to illuminate this same square footage. I do 2+ pounds per light using digital ballast. How do I pull 3+ pounds per light with Gavitas. Well do the math. If I'm covering the same area with 10 gavita lights that I would normally use 15 1000 watt digital ballast and get 2+ pounds per light (30 for 15 lights) Then with 10 gavitas I also pull 30 on the same square footage which makes my numbers go to 3+ pounds per 1000 watt Gavita light.

When you bring them into your flowering room. I always flush the first day and then start with the week 1 mix on the second day. You can use a product like Clearex to flush for this first time or you can use 100 ml of SBA/SBB to flush them as well. Flush them for like 30+ seconds to ensure they are clean for the next days mix.

View attachment 648699

This is my OG Kush Recipe above that we use in the SFV to grow OG kush. I've actually adjusted to lower ppm's during last 6 weeks to get the best quality. To get best results you must use Super Nutrients SBA and SBB to bring out the best out of OG kush. Most growers over feed OG kush thinking that its a big feeder. Maybe for the indica dominant OG kush types but for the sativa dominant OG kush, it requires much less nutrients than most people give it. When you over feed OG kush, your buds will turn out dark and not lime green like they are suppose to look. When it comes to nutes, remember that less is more. http://www.growweedeasy.com/7-tips-to-growing-top-shelf-buds (Best blog on the net for growing cannabis, in my opinion)

Note: When recirculating do 10 seconds up one way then 10 seconds back the opposite way. This ensures that all your plants get an even ppm mix. I hand water my plants because I enjoy it and get the chance to give them that extra especial attention where I see needs. This is how I make sure that my OG kush buds sit as the top shelf buds for all the dispensaries that carry it.

Note: When you run to waste feed until you see 10-15% runoff

* When you recirculate and give them 20 secs total, this extra watering promotes rapid leaf development, the early use of monster bloom which has high phosphorous helps create more bud sites.

* You can stop recirculating earlier when you feel that your canopy has filled in nicely to your grow space. If you keep recirculating past this point you will get too many leaves which will shade bottom nugs too much and you will have a tough time defoliating all the extra water leaves

*If some shoots start stretching, pinch them by squeezing the stem to slow their growth down. The shoot will stop growing for a few days since the plant needs to repair itself which allows the other shoots to catch up.

*Use nets to build your canopy structure. The low net at 24 inches from the bottom of plant and the top net at 36 inches from the bottom of plant. Aim for plants to be 42 to 48 inches max in height. If most are at max height then add a third level of nets at 44 inches

* When you switch to run to waste and you feed for less time usually 10 seconds this helps rockwool dry up a little to promote flower production, Big Bud which has more potassium helps bulk up your buds

*You need to defoliate the plant after it has finished its rapid growth expansion usually by week 3 because an indoor environment with co2 promotes many leaves that are not needed for flower production

* Never Defoliate a plant that is not healthy or has bugs or pest problems

*Defoliate a plant by removing water leaves to get your lux meter to read at least 5000 lux at all bottoms (No need to lolipop bottoms with this method)

*Your top canopy lux should be around 25,000 - 30,000 lux make sure you find the balance of your light height so that you don't light burn or heat burn your colas which will make them stop growing prematurely

*Regarding flushing. You must track your plants ppm runoff coming from the bottom of the rockwool cube. If the ppm runoff exceeds the nutrient ppm for 2 consecutive days then flush with 200 of cal mag and 100 of carbo load or bud candy when using RO water.

*The goal of the 1st 4 weeks is to develop the proper canopy structure with minimal internode length stretch by keeping the ppm in and ppm runoff in balance. Meaning that the ppm in comes back the same as the ppm runoff. This is not an exact science when you follow a nutrient formula chart. Even with my formula, I need to make adjustments depending on the room and setup. Plants in the middle which receive the most intense light tend to use more nutrients than my tables on the edges near the wall. Use nutrient schedules as a guideline but rely on the ppm and ph run off numbers to plan your next feed. Sometimes I have to flush (Lower the nutrient ppm with cal mag and bud candy or carbo load at low strengths like 250-300 ppm) The reason why I add extra sugars during my flushes is because I defoliate my plants which lowers their ability to produce their own sugars but by supplementing them with extra sugars I compensate for that and get more weight because I get more light to the bottom nugs.

*The goal of the last 6 weeks is to feed your og kush plants where the ppm runoff is slightly lower than the ppm in, this will create a small nutrient strength deficit which your plant will balance by taking it from their own leaf storage. This will make your leaves start to slowly turn lime green and by the end of the round your leaves should be a healthy yellow and not burnt. This technique takes some practice to get used too. If you get in trouble and start losing too many leaves you can foliar spray to help keep them alive. But make sure that you do not have powdery mildew. In fact if you have bugs and or pm then you will not achieve best results. It is normal to lose leaves by weeks 7-9 which helps further add light to those developing bottoms.

Summary:

*The key to pulling weight is light intensity coupled with the right environment with no bugs or PM. Nutrients are secondary to the above factors.

*You need to build a completely sealed environment where you can maintain the right Co2 levels with the right temperatures to get that extra growth. (Canopy temps should be between 82-88. Aim for 85 degrees farenheit

*Make sure you have proper air movement in your room from the top and bottom of the canopy. Use wall fans and floor fans to accomplish this.

*Humidity during flowering should be between 45-55 percent. Aim to have it 50%. Use dehumidifiers in a complete enclosed environment and a charcoal filter that can extract heat and humidity from your room from the ceiling if temps and humidity get too high because of a hot summer day

They key to getting best quality, taste and smell is to start bringing down your plants ppm by week 5 which is contrary to most flowering schedules. The last week flush is not enough to make your buds smell and taste better. You need to slowly bring them down making the leaves turn lime green to a healthy yellow in the end.

My bottoms after defoliating:
View attachment 648723



View attachment 648719

Quality

View attachment 648721

This is my OG strain done by another grower using PGR's and high nutrient mixes. It may look ok but the taste, smell and high will not be the same. This is what most growers do. Notice the deep dark green leaves which have excess nitrogen. Giving your plants too much nitrogen in the last few weeks of flowering will cause your buds to lose quality. Sure they may look frosty and crystalized as helll but when you smoke it, you'll notice the chemicals in your throat. Not my preference. These buds here will be sub-par to my buds, and will not be the best of the best of OG Kush. If you have any questions on specifics just hit me up.

View attachment 648722

How to pull max weight and Quality for OG Kush.

You must have the proper light intensity with the right canopy structure & plant height. You must create a completely sealed controllable environment that controls temperature, humidity and air flow & that is enriched with the proper CO2 levels at the right temperatures. Nutrients are secondary to the above. If you don't have the above dialed in, the your nutrients will not work to their full potential.

Use a strong AC unit for complete control. This is a 5 ton I use for my 10 light Gavita room.
View attachment 648701
Use a CO2 generator to produce CO2. I prefer this method over hauling in heavy CO2 tanks every week
View attachment 648702
Use dehumidifiers to control humidity and wall fans to move the air properly. Also use floor fans to move air in the bottom of the canopy. In the wild cannabis won't pay much attention to bud sites that get no proper air flow and light intensity
View attachment 648704
Use a charcoal filter from the top to remove extra humidity and heat from and to scrub your air once or twice during day cycle.
View attachment 648707
Use tables with rollers to easily get in to your canopy and make sure to collect the runoff under each table to make sure that ppm and ph are optimal for the week of your flowering cycle. Weeks 1-2 aim for run off ph 6.0-6.4 for nitrogen needed for expansive growth. Weeks 3-4 aim for 5.8-6.0 run off ph to make sure that they get the necessary phosphorus to develop more bud sites. After that you can keep runoff around 6.0 - 6.2. I usually aim for 5.5 ph when mixing my nutes to balance out the rockwool. Sometimes you may need to go a little lower to bring down ph.
View attachment 648708

Aim to create an even canopy structure, especially when using Gavita lights. When I first used them, I under estimated their power and placed them to close to my tops which caused my buds to get light burn and fox tail. Keep them around 40-42 inches from the tops. For Digital ballast with hortilux bulbs I usually keep them between 18-24 inches from the top of canopy. Preferably closer to 18 if your plants can manage the heat.
View attachment 648711

Setup:

Digital ballast:
You need a complete sealed environment with CO2 enrichment to pull 1 gram per watt using 1000 watt digital ballasts with HPS hortilux bulbs. Use a 4x4 foot area (16 aquare feet) for each light and use 6-9 plants per light. I like to use 9 per light on a 3-4 week veg cycle. I usually top them twice (I use these cuts to make clones) to create more shoots and don't let your plants get over crowded during veg or else they will stretch. Veg with metal halide bulbs. Start them at 600 watts and then slowly get them to 1000 watts by middle of week 2.

Gavita setup:

Gavitas can nicely light a 24 square foot area per 1000 watts. This room above is a 10 light Gavita Pro setup covering a 240 canopy square foot space. It would take 15 1000 watt digital ballasts to illuminate this same square footage. I do 2+ pounds per light using digital ballast. How do I pull 3+ pounds per light with Gavitas. Well do the math. If I'm covering the same area with 10 gavita lights that I would normally use 15 1000 watt digital ballast and get 2+ pounds per light (30 for 15 lights) Then with 10 gavitas I also pull 30 on the same square footage which makes my numbers go to 3+ pounds per 1000 watt Gavita light.

When you bring them into your flowering room. I always flush the first day and then start with the week 1 mix on the second day. You can use a product like Clearex to flush for this first time or you can use 100 ml of SBA/SBB to flush them as well. Flush them for like 30+ seconds to ensure they are clean for the next days mix.

View attachment 648699

This is my OG Kush Recipe above that we use in the SFV to grow OG kush. I've actually adjusted to lower ppm's during last 6 weeks to get the best quality. To get best results you must use Super Nutrients SBA and SBB to bring out the best out of OG kush. Most growers over feed OG kush thinking that its a big feeder. Maybe for the indica dominant OG kush types but for the sativa dominant OG kush, it requires much less nutrients than most people give it. When you over feed OG kush, your buds will turn out dark and not lime green like they are suppose to look. When it comes to nutes, remember that less is more. http://www.growweedeasy.com/7-tips-to-growing-top-shelf-buds (Best blog on the net for growing cannabis, in my opinion)

Note: When recirculating do 10 seconds up one way then 10 seconds back the opposite way. This ensures that all your plants get an even ppm mix. I hand water my plants because I enjoy it and get the chance to give them that extra especial attention where I see needs. This is how I make sure that my OG kush buds sit as the top shelf buds for all the dispensaries that carry it.

Note: When you run to waste feed until you see 10-15% runoff

* When you recirculate and give them 20 secs total, this extra watering promotes rapid leaf development, the early use of monster bloom which has high phosphorous helps create more bud sites.

* You can stop recirculating earlier when you feel that your canopy has filled in nicely to your grow space. If you keep recirculating past this point you will get too many leaves which will shade bottom nugs too much and you will have a tough time defoliating all the extra water leaves

*If some shoots start stretching, pinch them by squeezing the stem to slow their growth down. The shoot will stop growing for a few days since the plant needs to repair itself which allows the other shoots to catch up.

*Use nets to build your canopy structure. The low net at 24 inches from the bottom of plant and the top net at 36 inches from the bottom of plant. Aim for plants to be 42 to 48 inches max in height. If most are at max height then add a third level of nets at 44 inches

* When you switch to run to waste and you feed for less time usually 10 seconds this helps rockwool dry up a little to promote flower production, Big Bud which has more potassium helps bulk up your buds

*You need to defoliate the plant after it has finished its rapid growth expansion usually by week 3 because an indoor environment with co2 promotes many leaves that are not needed for flower production

* Never Defoliate a plant that is not healthy or has bugs or pest problems

*Defoliate a plant by removing water leaves to get your lux meter to read at least 5000 lux at all bottoms (No need to lolipop bottoms with this method)

*Your top canopy lux should be around 25,000 - 30,000 lux make sure you find the balance of your light height so that you don't light burn or heat burn your colas which will make them stop growing prematurely

*Regarding flushing. You must track your plants ppm runoff coming from the bottom of the rockwool cube. If the ppm runoff exceeds the nutrient ppm for 2 consecutive days then flush with 200 of cal mag and 100 of carbo load or bud candy when using RO water.

*The goal of the 1st 4 weeks is to develop the proper canopy structure with minimal internode length stretch by keeping the ppm in and ppm runoff in balance. Meaning that the ppm in comes back the same as the ppm runoff. This is not an exact science when you follow a nutrient formula chart. Even with my formula, I need to make adjustments depending on the room and setup. Plants in the middle which receive the most intense light tend to use more nutrients than my tables on the edges near the wall. Use nutrient schedules as a guideline but rely on the ppm and ph run off numbers to plan your next feed. Sometimes I have to flush (Lower the nutrient ppm with cal mag and bud candy or carbo load at low strengths like 250-300 ppm) The reason why I add extra sugars during my flushes is because I defoliate my plants which lowers their ability to produce their own sugars but by supplementing them with extra sugars I compensate for that and get more weight because I get more light to the bottom nugs.

*The goal of the last 6 weeks is to feed your og kush plants where the ppm runoff is slightly lower than the ppm in, this will create a small nutrient strength deficit which your plant will balance by taking it from their own leaf storage. This will make your leaves start to slowly turn lime green and by the end of the round your leaves should be a healthy yellow and not burnt. This technique takes some practice to get used too. If you get in trouble and start losing too many leaves you can foliar spray to help keep them alive. But make sure that you do not have powdery mildew. In fact if you have bugs and or pm then you will not achieve best results. It is normal to lose leaves by weeks 7-9 which helps further add light to those developing bottoms.

Summary:

*The key to pulling weight is light intensity coupled with the right environment with no bugs or PM. Nutrients are secondary to the above factors.

*You need to build a completely sealed environment where you can maintain the right Co2 levels with the right temperatures to get that extra growth. (Canopy temps should be between 82-88. Aim for 85 degrees farenheit

*Make sure you have proper air movement in your room from the top and bottom of the canopy. Use wall fans and floor fans to accomplish this.

*Humidity during flowering should be between 45-55 percent. Aim to have it 50%. Use dehumidifiers in a complete enclosed environment and a charcoal filter that can extract heat and humidity from your room from the ceiling if temps and humidity get too high because of a hot summer day

They key to getting best quality, taste and smell is to start bringing down your plants ppm by week 5 which is contrary to most flowering schedules. The last week flush is not enough to make your buds smell and taste better. You need to slowly bring them down making the leaves turn lime green to a healthy yellow in the end.

My bottoms after defoliating:
View attachment 648723



View attachment 648719

Quality

View attachment 648721

This is my OG strain done by another grower using PGR's and high nutrient mixes. It may look ok but the taste, smell and high will not be the same. This is what most growers do. Notice the deep dark green leaves which have excess nitrogen. Giving your plants too much nitrogen in the last few weeks of flowering will cause your buds to lose quality. Sure they may look frosty and crystalized as helll but when you smoke it, you'll notice the chemicals in your throat. Not my preference. These buds here will be sub-par to my buds, and will not be the best of the best of OG Kush. If you have any questions on specifics just hit me up.

View attachment 648722

I've done a 10 1000 watt Gavita setup on a 5x2 row setup covering a 240 sq ft area and hit 30.5 pounds of the Florida cut og kush. The right amount of defoliation was needed to achieve a minimum lux of 5000 at the base of the plant to produce decent bottoms . This is a new 10 light gavita setup for me and I've had to adjust my nutrient strength to accommodate for the extra cross lighting intensity that the middle rows are receiving. So what worked in my other room no longer works in this new 10
Light gavita setup. In order to pull 3+ pounds per 1000 wattt on a so called low yielding strain like the og kush. You must have the proper canopy structure that is completely filled in and yet defoliate enough by end of 3/4 weeks to get the right amount of lux to get decent bottoms. You will notice that you will get bud uniformity up and down the plant and it's bettter to not have the biggest colas on your tops that can block light to develop good middles
and solid bottoms. I make sure that every single square of my nets for my table has a nice shoot running through them with minimal intermodal length between buds. Any shoot that grows too fast I pinch the tip of it so it's stops growing for a few days which lets the other shoots catch up thus creating the proper canopy uniformity for a lanky and stretchy sativa dominant og Kush plant.

 

[Judaz]

@Judaz have you tried triangle kush if so how does it compare to your Og?

No I have not tried it yet. If I'm correct it's the one from Florida that is more Indica like right? I have the one that also came from Florida but that is more sativa like. Would love to try it and compare it to the one I have

 

[Judaz]

https://potguide.com/strain-profiles/triangle/

This one right? Would love to
See pics of it in veg. Do you have any?

 

[Krypto]

Right on Judas!!! RIGHT FN on! Is that The OG?
the OG saga continues with the drama. (not sure why I put that in) BUT!!! NOMATTER WHAT story you believe... from friggin' bag seeds to the 280 1000 watt HPS lamps in a manmade underground bunker with breeding Schedules of 3 way super hybrids.... to the hippie trail ending in Humboldt. It's all fun to me...BTW, have you hEARD much about te OG RINGO??? I have looked and then some....can't find shot. And I have the damn thing. Lol

 

[Judaz]

The argument of the Triangle kush (Indica dominant) and the og kush (sativa dominant) strains as being the real og kush pheno is up for grabs. The one that I have looks and grows just like the one in this video and matches the story that I was told 20 years ago.

Josh who describes the real og kush we know of in LA on this video. The one that is not lemony but more piney and earthy smelling that has richness in savory taste that once you smoke it you'll never forget. In La when we refer to something original we say it's og. Yes og stands for original gangster but it's an LA slang for the term and meaning of original. Hence you are og in the way you do something like dance or sing etc.

Look at the bud structure and growth form from the picture of Josh's og on the video and the pic of my strain. Also Notice the shape of the leaves in flowering

 

[Natural]

^^^there it is. There's still an element of skepticism around this when ya go deeper. But no doubt this is the cut that got things poppin in socal imho. The thing about this cut is that Josh clearly says the guys he got the cut off of in FL found it in bagseed. Big Ricky says he's been growing the TK since the early 90's too. It's very hard to say how they are related, but TK is for sure an og..just different..to me she's like sour citrus fuel/tennis ball funk..the packs smell like cologne..the real one is worth hunting down. Valley OG/greyskull cut is interesting too..big yielder 80 day plant. To me smells like a synthetic chocolate covered savory dog treat in a new gym shoe..she's very indica feeling..I think it could be a TK s1 in all honesty but not sure

 

[Judaz]

Right on Judas!!! RIGHT FN on! Is that The OG?
the OG saga continues with the drama. (not sure why I put that in) BUT!!! NOMATTER WHAT story you believe... from friggin' bag seeds to the 280 1000 watt HPS lamps in a manmade underground bunker with breeding Schedules of 3 way super hybrids.... to the hippie trail ending in Humboldt. It's all fun to me...BTW, have you hEARD much about te OG RINGO??? I have looked and then some....can't find shot. And I have the damn thing. Lol

Never heard of Og Ringo. Where did you get it from

 

[Krypto]

Never heard of Og Ringo. Where did you get it from

Southern Humboldt seed Collective SOHUM. Founded by the late Lawrence Ringo CBD pioneer also made Harle-Tsu , we've got that too.
Also pineapple cheese and a brand-new Sour Diesel x Pineapple Thai.

 

[Krypto]

Can't seem to find any information on the Ringo. Except that it's a 8-week flowering period and it's a 70/30 indica. I have no doubt that it is Top Shelf airG. Butt I'm really trying to get my hands on classic old school.

 

[Krypto]

Those are beautiful man!

 

[Judaz]

^^^there it is. There's still an element of skepticism around this when ya go deeper. But no doubt this is the cut that got things poppin in socal imho. The thing about this cut is that Josh clearly says the guys he got the cut off of in FL found it in bagseed. Big Ricky says he's been growing the TK since the early 90's too. It's very hard to say how they are related, but TK is for sure an og..just different..to me she's like sour citrus fuel/tennis ball funk..the packs smell like cologne..the real one is worth hunting down. Valley OG/greyskull cut is interesting too..big yielder 80 day plant. To me smells like a synthetic chocolate covered savory dog treat in a new gym shoe..she's very indica feeling..I think it could be a TK s1 in all honesty but not sure

Found some legit pics of the triangle kush in vegative and flowering forms from another thread and the source seems legit. (2nd and third pic) IMHO, You can definitely see the indica dominance by the fatter leaf blades of the TK But by the pictures alone I can tell that this is a very high quality og. Notice the thickness and rich Kermit the frog like shine in the color. The fine serations and intermodal veins are very defined and it has some purple in the leaf petal. These are the signs of a fine high quality strain, according to my old school grower. He saw these same physical characteristics in the legendary old school indica and Thai strains from back in the day. He's shown me how poor quality strains do not posses the thickness and richness in leaf color and finely sculptured veins and serations that we see in these quality strains. You can see these same physical qualities in the Real LA OG kush strain (first image above) but the leaf blades are a bit thinner which leans it more towards the sativa side of the spectrum. Both came from Florida and they may both be cuts of the original OG seeds
Phenos from that killer cross of the best Thai and afghani genetics that most likely were bred to create the OG strain

 

[Krypto]

View attachment 649412 View attachment 649410 View attachment 649411

Found some legit pics of the triangle kush in vegative and flowering forms from another thread and the source seems legit. (2nd and third pic) IMHO, You can definitely see the indica dominance by the fatter leaf blades of the TK But by the pictures alone I can tell that this is a very high quality og. Notice the thickness and rich Kermit the frog like shine in the color. The fine serations and intermodal veins are very defined and it has some purple in the leaf petal. These are the signs of a fine high quality strain, according to my old school grower. He saw these same physical characteristics in the legendary old school indica and Thai strains from back in the day. He's shown me how poor quality strains do not posses the thickness and richness in leaf color and finely sculptured veins and serations that we see in these quality strains. You can see these same physical qualities in the Real LA OG kush strain (first image above) but the leaf blades are a bit thinner which leans it more towards the sativa side of the spectrum. Both came from Florida and they may both be cuts of the original OG seeds
Phenos from that killer cross of the best Thai and afghani genetics that most likely were bred to create the OG strain

I like your style jadaz. where you live ? so cal? Nor-cal? great pics, great set up. keep in touch.

 

[Krypto]

So I'm guessing Karma genetics must be cool. Josh D just realeased his OG under there brand.

 

[Judaz]

I like your style jadaz. where you live ? so cal? Nor-cal? great pics, great set up. keep in touch.

I live in LA exactly the San Fernando Valley.