yes more or less brother. it is likely, in order to defend itself from over drying, the plant is not moving enough solution to the tips through lost Hydraulic capacity, and so you see this also as a burn look right, this is a def tho not an accumulative burn. its just the plant doenst have the conditions to pump the Ca for example to the very extremes of the plant and if it did, it would lose water at a rate faster than it might be replaced. If it stays dry at night, the plant will remain closed, so just like putting you finger over the end of a straw, this is natural to prevent drying. When lights come on, or sun comes up, again the plant would look to close stomata to prevent excess water loss. At normal ranges, the plant will have been open all night long. So if we are closed for a larger part of the 24hour cycle, we will start to lose all manner of nutrients and more, the plant will stall. understanding VPD will allow you to tune the local to suit the growing rates of your plants. this can however mean $$$$ so just have a goal and work in steps as suit, keeping your eyes open for solutions which might mean less CAPEX on kit.
In the media, the Ca will be binding with the P, this is inevitable anyway, mycos and PSB's can free this easily so its not a big risk, where we grow without LOS we can simply swing to release, for example, adding some humic acid, citric acid, or white wine vinegar, brown rice vinegar, depending on your preference for solvents but i would reach always for humic salts first. I dont have time for raw humates to do their thing and i cant be arsed wrestling it from the Ca etc before its any use to me, so i always always use a HA-K for example.
The P in soils link will explain the quandary of P, the more you use, the more you have to use. As soon as you add it, it will be looking to form a bond with many other elements, many of these unavailable without considerable energy and or highly undesirable in the case of Al+++ for example. where we have no LOS and have just used pH.
Adding humic acid as a salt not as a raw lignite will help you free P from Al but the manner of humic acid salts mean the molecules and electron donor capacity of HA will link the AL up leaving it in a non soluble state, whilst freeing up the P, Iron and so on as soluble or chelates.
HA also is gel forming, this changes the structure of water to more closely resemble blood plasma, or the fluids we find in cells. Ergo on interaction with cells walls, the HA adjusted water will have a greater resonance and pass more freely.
You might use a HA-K to provide ongoing bloom nutrients, plus add immediate bio stimulation via unraveled sugar chains which require time and energy to deliver from raw state humates, time you most certainly dont have week 6 if ever on any annual in fresh media.
Make sure you dilute it properly. i use it at 0.01%. Usually as a foliar but clearly as a soil drench where we might have water loss, compaction, dispersion, pollution and so on. You of course only have drench options at this stage.
just to note....In clays, there are about 170 forms of phosphate compunds, Ca3(PO4)2 as an example is a weak bond compound, hence it is usually the first reserve of P to be used in any system after that in the already soluble state. The volatility of P is why you only ever find it as a compound in any nutrients, eg P2O5.
This goes for humans too where we have excess P acids. Just have a look at how many skeletal complaints humans get nowadays, this I suspect is acidification of the GI tract through excessive meat consumption. So the body which needs Ca simply robs it from the bones etc since pH means it can not be assimilated through diet. I doubt your plant would ever need the levels of P you feed them buddy, but i aint saying change. this is up to you, not me, i dont grow your plants. :).
the other option to help our plants is to use a product that can help maintain control of stomata guard cells, this way we can semi over ride the closing action as the lights come on, thus allowing for nutrients to continue to be pumped for longer. As the temps increase the energy increases so moving more nutrients in to the solution, with the guard cells open, we can use the natural hydraulic capacity to draw more nutrients up.
Perhaps you might see more benefit by using something like nano breathe to deliver Ca/ Mg and Fe which will offer this stomata tweak and help you plants better resist adverse conditions, plus it boosts CO2 at and on the leaf, is thermodynamic, so it recharges at night, and lasts about 3-4 weeks between applications. Its sometimes easier to work with conditions than to change them, esp economically right.
I have some climate controlled spaces, and i feel this come time to pay bills, these we use for medical plants and fungi etc, most of my MJ is grown outside nowadays so i roll with the lord as we say, but i do pvt consumption, i am not trying to sell an end product. This has left me developing low cost solutions for conditions i cant change, rather than trying to out buy adversity with technology and equipment $$$$$ constantly.
That's very interesting because I just saw online where they took spinach leaves, removed the plant matter to leave cellulose and implanted heart cells into it. They had it beating in 5 days. Apparently the human vascular system is closely related to plants structure. Cool stuff!
Totally agree, sometimes it's easier and more cost effective to work with what you got as opposed to trying to fight mother nature. Next week I'll have to check out that nano breathe, seems like something suitable for my situation. Getting tight being close to the holidays and all. Went a little crazy on a genetics auction lol, just bid on and won two auctions. Some purple pez, and a grab bag of a bunch of random packs of beans. 40 total. Got a good deal and went to a good cause so I'm more than happy with it.
super radical root work there buddy and the bacterial slime can be fixed with an enzyme wash no worries if you want, but dont forget, if the plant dont look bad, dont worry. Check out how Bacillus subtilus interacts with root structures. Slime is a bio film, some bio films can be extremely important at times of drought for example, but too much can also be an arse ache as it raises pH and can cause hydrophobic conditions.
Superior radical root development is the reason Hydro plants can be seen to grow faster than most of those in soil IMO. Usually soil growers dont understand the difference between root types, and they assume the root plug full of light hairy white roots is good work, Of course the radical root is typically damage though planting in too small a media plug depth and leads then to us having to work so fucking hard to keep them from drying, burning drowning and so on. Secondary roots are shallow, so prone to drying, to excess water, to pest damage and so on. Radical roots are the really energy of the structure, they can penetrate to the humid layers of the soil profile and so rarely suffer drought matters. If soil growers can learn to better manage radical root development, they would see better results just as fast as hydro and at no where near the cost I reckon. :)
Thank you, I've finally dialed in my cloning technique and have been able to keep them healthy from the time I cut them at flip to when my room frees up and I can start pumping them hard. Basically just growing roots until I pot them 2-3 weeks before I harvest the main room. That's all I want them to do at that point, grow roots.
Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens is the bacteria in
Hydroguard, supposedly they live in bigger, more vigorous colonies than Subtilis, therefore are able to survive more unfavorable conditions. Idk if that's just marketing? Seemed to help the bio film in my cloner res.
There are a lot of bacteria and enzyme products out, makes it hard to determine which are necessary, useful, or useless.
SLF-100 is a product that has huge following, I had some samples and it appears to break down the bone meal gum, but I don't really know if it's worth the price. I found some information on the product (
unofficially from the owner, Newton Hayes, but due to legalities and/or labeling laws, I'm unsure why, but I don't think he was able to publish it. I say unofficial bc I found it on the
Nectar for the Gods website) Reading that .pdf you posted on PSBs and their role in plant growth promotion, it made me feel slow to learn
Bacillus can be PSB. :smoking:
Part of a Q&A with the owner of South Cascade Organics - Newton Hayes -
In your own words Newton, what is
SLF-100?
“I want to post what
SLF-100 is rather than a bunch of hype. That way, you can do the research
if you want. SLF stands for Submerged Liquid Fermentation. SLF is a microbe based enzymatic
product. We start with a base of microbes which we add to several species of grasses that we
grow. We then bring in plants from extreme environments, for their ability to survive those
extremes, and we let it ferment. Most of the plants we bring in are proprietary but one plant
comes from a salt flat for the plants ability to survive high EC's. From this plant we get bacteria
like Virgibacillus pantothenticus which is known to help plants survive osmotic stress and
produces enzymes necessary to remediate high salt environments.
SLF-100 was actually created
to break down salts. Breaking phosphorus bonds and calcium build up (bone gum) are beneficial
side effects from the use of
SLF-100. It is not just a microbial product. There are microbes left
from the fermentation process and researching the specific microbes will help to understand what
the product is capable of.
SLF-100 is: A formulation of multiple species of bacteria, however there are four that really
stand out and make their presence known.
• Pseudomonas putida - Phosphor solubilizer - amazing bacteria, also an antagonist for
pythium and fusarium.
• Virgibacillus pantothenticus - production of ectoine and proline, causes plants to adapt to
environmental stressors - among many other things
• Bacillus thuringiensis - helps with some pests - also has anti-pathogenic properties.
• Bacillus subtillus - catalase-positive bacteria - meaning given the ability to grow
overnight in a simple sugar medium and added to H2O2 it will break the extra oxygen
atom off the end - the real enzyme test.”
~ Newton Hayes
Seems like a pretty straight forward and honest guy. I emailed him about trying it and he didn't even respond.. which was kinda weird.. he just sent me 2 small bottles to try. I emailed again to thank and he did respond that time. Here's the original .pdf file if interested -
https://nectarmerch.com/collections/digital-downloads/products/slf-100-users-guide
Is this the ideal way to introduce these strains of bacteria?
