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Dirtbags Do-over... 🤪 Back to Organic!

This is basically what @Aqua Man is trying i believe. In terms of dry amendments. But he is in coco. Right, I just didn’t know if there was really a specific reason not to make a switch like that in feeding. Is it too stressful for the plant, etc.
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Dirtbags Do-over... 🤪 Back to Organic!

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Discussion below · 1,738 replies
Page 32 of 87 · Replies 621–640 of 1,739
#622
amekins said:
Maybe this is naive, but what about basically taking a dry organic amendment approach the end of veg/beginning weeks of flower that will provide enough available (nonchelated) nutrients for the remainder of the plants expected life, anything excess,I’m assuming as an organic nutrient, will just remain in the soil but not be detectable even when still present in the plant. Does that make any sense?
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In theory, possibly if your soil life is healthy. But i have to admit ive smoked organic pot that burned poorly before too, its not really a fail safe. The nutrient uptake of a plant is pretty dynamic with a lot of variables. I think its something that needs to be experimented with to confirm. I do know a lot of people go the other way around and start off organically and then supplement chelated ferts as the soil becomes depleted.
 
#623
MIMedGrower said:
not for best results. Organic stuff and water only usually falls short. Usually need some supplementation or leaves too much nitrogen at the end.

i would always use a half dose and supplement to the plants needs.


thats what im doing with the ozmozote. I will likely usually only need water only but i want to need more than whats in the soil for flower so i can customize to each plants needs.
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When you say need more, are you mostly referring to P and K?
 
#624
MIMedGrower said:
i hardly am correct about everything but my goal was to harvest a different plant every week or two and i had a lot of chances to test stuff.

the difference between flushed (starved) at the end and properly tapered is much smaller than the difference between too much nutes which is always much worse.


and contrary to the cash croppers opinion. Small homegrown grows can always have the best quality. Automation and volume work against that.

Its why grandmas tomatoes are always the best tomatoes. :-)
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I agree with all of this 100%
 
#625
MIMedGrower said:
not for best results. Organic stuff and water only usually falls short. Usually need some supplementation or leaves too much nitrogen at the end.

i would always use a half dose and supplement to the plants needs.


thats what im doing with the ozmozote. I will likely usually only need water only but i want to need more than whats in the soil for flower so i can customize to each plants needs.
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Exactly, and again I agree. Thats exactly how Im running this one too is a mild soil mix supplemented with nutrient solution.
 
#627
amekins said:
Right, I just didn’t know if there was really a specific reason not to make a switch like that in feeding. Is it too stressful for the plant, etc.
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Your avatar keeps looking at me differently. Lol.

And plants like having multiple sources of nutrients. As long as its not too much.
 
#628
Dirtbag said:
In theory, possibly if your soil life is healthy. But i have to admit ive smoked organic pot that burned poorly before too, its not really a fail safe. The nutrient uptake of a plant is pretty dynamic with a lot of variables. I think its something that needs to be experimented with to confirm. I do know a lot of people go the other way around and start off organically and then supplement chelated ferts as the soil becomes depleted.
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or even an organic liquid fertilizer can round that system out. I think it will stink and maybe attract more bugs but when i get things back stable i want to compare dry organic food and liquid organic nutes against the ozmoxote and dyna grow.

but i already did grow with oceanforest and a few different ferts. Traditional potting soil and finish with bottled nutes. So far still works best for me.
 
#630
MIMedGrower said:
or even an organic liquid fertilizer can round that system out. I think it will stink and maybe attract more bugs but when i get things back stable i want to compare dry organic food and liquid organic nutes against the ozmoxote and dyna grow.

but i already did grow with oceanforest and a few different ferts. Traditional potting soil and finish with bottled nutes. So far still works best for me.
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Have you experimented with molasses? Really interesting re: using grow ratio btw.... I definitely am seeing my regimen cut N before my liking in my current grow...an adjustment for next time.
 
#631
Milson said:
Have you experimented with molasses? Really interesting re: using grow ratio btw.... I definitely am seeing my regimen cut N before my liking in my current grow...an adjustment for next time.
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switching to bloom nutes entirely too early will prematurely yellow the plants.

and if you have not listened to the dave neal pres of dyna grow interview on dude grows show here it is. He shares his lab results on cannabis hybrids. Also search myth of phosphorous and flowering. Or some such search. Advanced nutes also has tissue sample results proving one basic ratio for all.

sorry i have posted this many times before.


 
#632
Oh @Milson i tried mixing molasses one time and gave up.


Then later found that plants cant uptake the nutrients in the form they are in in molasses and further discovered that the sugar molecule is also too big for plant roots.


It can feed the micro biology but i find that counter intuitive as well. I would want only the micros symbiotic with the plants to survive. Not competing blooms.
 
#634
I gotta agree there also. The only time i tried molasses it actually made things worse i think. Simple sucrose CAN be absorbed and its in some horticultural products. But molasses isnt one.
Stuff like florakleen is actually an isotonic sucrose solution i believe, it gets taken up and displaces the nutriemts in the vascular system.

And i agree that grow ratio is all thats needed and is likely the least stressful feeding routine.
But, I do believe used conservatively at the right times, P can be used to our advantage. Just look at Burnzy's room.
 
#635
#636
MIMedGrower said:
Oh @Milson i tried mixing molasses one time and gave up.


Then later found that plants cant uptake the nutrients in the form they are in in molasses and further discovered that the sugar molecule is also too big for plant roots.


It can feed the micro biology but i find that counter intuitive as well. I would want only the micros symbiotic with the plants to survive. Not competing blooms.
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Yeah I wasn't thinking of it for direct nutritional value really. Just....all the other stuff that could be interacting with the plant. For instance, maybe molasses in the soil could help by giving, excess salts something else to bond to, perhaps as a result of interactions with microbe blooms that would not otherwise occur. I have no idea if that is even possible but my point is I am wondering if there are other interactions besides the obvious nutrient uptake, which I agree makes very little sense chemically for the reasons you mention. We are talking about crazy complex ecosystems finding homeostasis on the fly (or trying to) and I will not pretend to even begin to know how to think about that on a mechanical level. It's always going to be a bit of witches brew/magic to me lol.

Maybe another way of putting it is I am cultivating a plant in a pot, not just a plant lol. Then I am harvesting the buds. The real edges of the thing are at pot level, not the plant level. Right?

Sorry I am stoned this afternoon this might be nonsense.
 
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#637
Milson said:
Yeah I wasn't thinking of it for direct nutritional value really. Just....all the other stuff that could be interacting with the plant. For instance, maybe molasses in the soil could help by giving, excess salts something else to bond to, perhaps as a result of interactions with microbe blooms that would not otherwise occur. I have no idea if that is even possible but my point is I am wondering if there are other interactions besides the obvious nutrient uptake, which I agree makes very little sense chemically for the reasons you mention.
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You want a new rabbit hole to crawl into read teaming with microbes. And the authors other book. Can find a free pdf online. I dont have a link anymore sorry.
 
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