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Could my blurple be better than a full spectrum?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gorillaglueaaron
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Could my blurple be better than a full spectrum?

gorillaglueaaron 388 Replies 53,443 Views
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There's just as much if not more blue in the sf and ts lights.
Take a look at the Viparspectra website. The graph is incomplete, there is always an x/y chart showing things. The listed chart only has information along the bottom and a 100 percent at the top of the blue spectrum which means nothing. You have to really look hard at the data and you will find holes.
 
What day of 12/12 light is that plant in and can you put something next to the bud to get a size understanding?
That's day 29. You can check out the latest page in the link in my signature... I'll post an update in the next few hours with a bic lighter next to it.
 
Anyone ever test these dime-a-dozen lights vs buying Samsung diodes from a reputable place?
I have a sneaking suspicion you're likely not getting what's advertised.
If that small pocket of southeast China is good at doing one thing, it's fooling the rest of the world with top notch product label replication.
+1

Some guy I know used to manufacture anabolics and order hologram bearing "pharmaceutical" labels from Chinese printers on alibaba
 
+1

Some guy I know used to manufacture anabolics and order hologram bearing "pharmaceutical" labels from Chinese printers on alibaba


The fender guitar company lawsuits about counterfeit guitars sold from chinese factories is evidence of how and what they actually do for business over there. They obviously source samsung diodes but would likely build their own boards. Of course with a cheaper circuit board and cheaper solder. Its what they specialize in. Cheap manufacturing. And there is no branding laws so they can call anything what they want.

Plenty of evidence out there about counterfeit samsung diodes coming from shenzen. Even spider farmer bothered putting how to tell authentic samsung from fake right on their website.

Their lamp just has cost compromises. Not counterfeit parts i think.
 
It's really hard to choose a good light because I have such a small tent, the actually good ones are much too bright and are made for much bigger spaces. But the cheap ones have a bad spectrum and aren't as efficient but somehow much more expensive for what you're getting.
 
So, back to the point I was getting at, is that a balanced spectrum with relatively equal blue and red spikes is where the current high performance LEDs are at (and, yes, far red supplementation).
Like aqua said, blue will make them short but so too will red, come flowering... when we want to minimize stretch and also get that nicely packed bud structure.
The big issue with LEDs (except COBs) is intensity and penetration, so, generally, the shorter the plant, the better.
imo penetration comes from mostly red and believe it or not green. LED penetration is actually quite good. We need to look at it as not the photosynthesis of the the top leaves exposed directly to light but the whole plant and blurple lacks green for penetration. I think this is where we got into the LED doesn't provide good penetration idea and test results. Green albeit more inefficient than red and blue still can account for a good amount of photosynthesis because of its ability to penetrate through leaves and into the lower canopy. Once thought that plants reflect all green light and don't use it as seen by many that use it in the dark to see them. I had that convo with @MIMedGrower oh probably more than a year ago and I figured at that time that the intensity is the key to whether it could affect flowering as some reported it did. Everything I have found since then supports that and green as long as its below a certain ratio is important.

Bottom line is a full spectrum light is beneficial and the ratios of spectrums are important. The spectrum benefits change based on the type of growth we want. Yes I realize the sun does go from 3kto4k and we don't have to either... but does that mean there is no benefit to doing so? Absolutely not.

I sacrifice optimal vegetative growth for a spectrum that leans more toward root and shoot development. Yes my photosynthetic rates could be better under a different spectrum but I'm thinking buds.

If you ask me all the newer LED are going more blue for the pretty plants, robust vegetative growth with more leaf surface area, reducing stretch and tight dense buds. Also I feel a slight reduction in yield and this is being combated with the addition of IR.

JUST MY OPINION.... take it for what it is... some guy on the interwebs thoughts
 
So, back to the point I was getting at, is that a balanced spectrum with relatively equal blue and red spikes is where the current high performance LEDs are at (and, yes, far red supplementation).
Like aqua said, blue will make them short but so too will red, come flowering... when we want to minimize stretch and also get that nicely packed bud structure.
The big issue with LEDs (except COBs) is intensity and penetration, so, generally, the shorter the plant, the better.
So would all that blue account for the stretching during flower from the lack of the red?
 
So, back to the point I was getting at, is that a balanced spectrum with relatively equal blue and red spikes is where
It's really hard to choose a good light because I have such a small tent, the actually good ones are much too bright and are made for much bigger spaces. But the cheap ones have a bad spectrum and aren't as efficient but somehow much more expensive for what you're getting.
Did you look at HLG?
that light is right at 25 watts per square foot and will do very well in a 2' x 2' foot print.
 
If you look at the ppfd map of that light it's terrible and it's likely exagerated.
 
It's really hard to choose a good light because I have such a small tent, the actually good ones are much too bright and are made for much bigger spaces. But the cheap ones have a bad spectrum and aren't as efficient but somehow much more expensive for what you're getting.



no they arent. Hlg has a 135 watt board kit complete in stock for $197.
 
It's really hard to choose a good light because I have such a small tent, the actually good ones are much too bright and are made for much bigger spaces. But the cheap ones have a bad spectrum and aren't as efficient but somehow much more expensive for what you're getting.
Choose a light with the best spread that can get ya to 1000ppfd so you have adequate light for flower. Tons of factors influence this and if we are gonna go all out bumber crunching then yeah there is a lot of money to spend on a little difference.

There are gimmicks etc. But if you know why they are and can compensate and just use basic math with the actual true numbers even the cheap Chinese ones will produce killer. Generally speaking if you get good even coverage with a 3-4k spectrum and good intensity you are there.

Thats aside from quality issues, failures, lower efficiency etc. Look how much less efficient HPS is and still grows killed bud.
 
So would all that blue account for the stretching during flower from the lack of the red?
Ratio of blue to red. Blue will keep em squat. Red will increase internode... then take into account temperature difference between day and night, add to that hormones like pgrs....

Many reasons and ways to increase or decrease internode length
 
Choose a light with the best spread that can get ya to 1000ppfd so you have adequate light for flower. Tons of factors influence this and if we are gonna go all out bumber crunching then yeah there is a lot of money to spend on a little difference.

There are gimmicks etc. But if you know why they are and can compensate and just use basic math with the actual true numbers even the cheap Chinese ones will produce killer. Generally speaking if you get good even coverage with a 3-4k spectrum and good intensity you are there.

Thats aside from quality issues, failures, lower efficiency etc. Look how much less efficient HPS is and still grows killed bud.
Bingo.
All the spec snobbery doesn't make up for good technique.
 
Where are you seeing the PPFD chart in the information sent?
I see it now was looking at the MiMed offering. And yes they pay for outside testing. So take a look at the chart and the rest of the data and you might find some ways of looking at the data from import lights to get an idea of just how full of shit the imports are.
 
Now that I have some people here who know about lights, would this spectrum be sufficient for flower?
pro-series-spectrum-IR.png

I am learning about Spectral Analysis now for a few Years and how Cannabis behaves Blue Light for Short internode Distance Squat and Bushy plants
+ High in Red --> Induces flowering (in combination with 10h uninteruppted Sleep + 2h activation PTR + longer elongation more leaf less Budzones
Far Red makes the Plant sleep faster as well as accelerate Photosynthesis overall (about 1/6 or even 1/10) Far Red To Red Emmerson Effect
IN my mind that spectral Graph is to good to be true with that last one Bump at 660nm which is very important and LEDs drop off faster :) (Phosphor Coating is not perfect)
I would Recommend lets say 400W Scalable System = 180W 8000K LED + 180W 2700K(something (HIGH RED) LED + 20W Far Red LED + 20W UVB CFL
If links are allowed if i would build my own a new lamp with least hassle possible :)
Nichia NFDWJ130B-V2 Chip on Board Modul, 6780lm, 2200K, CRI 80
Thats what i would use + 8000K or 6400K equivalent
that chip would cost me 14€ for 44W of nichia led which is optimized for growing too :)
 
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