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Could use some advice: How's this going?

  • Thread starter Thread starter KidCharlemange
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Could use some advice: How's this going?

KidCharlemange 84 Replies 27,864 Views
Page 4 of 5 · Replies 61–80 of 85
#62
Aqua Man said:
I'm a tap water guy too lol... old habits it doe hard. We have 2 brita in the fridge and I always go to the tap.
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LOL As a kid, I drank straight out of Napa River and Clear Lake CA. Probably not a good idea nowadays.
 
#63
Aqua Man said:
Yes brother but hey how else do ya learn.

Plants don't take in humidity per se. But rather humidity affects plants uptake of water and nutrients dissolved in it. They can uptake water and nutrients through the leaves but not nearly enough to sustain them water wise.

Ha e a read here.

www.thcfarmer.com

VPD (vapor pressure deficit)

Ok i was gonna sit down and write out a whole article but i have been lazy so instead instead I'm going to copy paste because im lazy. This is not my work so let start. You may find this very long but its worth the read. Some may want to skip ahead. I have added here and there to what i feel is...
www.thcfarmer.com www.thcfarmer.com
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Good piece. Maybe I din't express my thinking very clearly, but this seems to confirm my thinking:

"In the same vein, if the VPD is too low, meaning that the RH is high, the transpiration rate will decrease, slowing the flow of water through the plant."
 
#65
KidCharlemange said:
Good piece. Maybe I din't express my thinking very clearly, but this seems to confirm my thinking:

"In the same vein, if the VPD is too low, meaning that the RH is high, the transpiration rate will decrease, slowing the flow of water through the plant."
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Yes absolutely. But I don't think 70%-80% is likely to do that. Could always move the light back up and try it though 😉
 
#67
growsince79 said:
The tap water will keep the outdoor garden alive-barely. But the plants are sickly and don't produce or grow good at all. When we get rain, we get healthy, productive crops.
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Womder if the sodium is high in it.
 
#72
Sorry to need sleep.

That is a pretty decent potting soil. It has some of what it needs to be fully organic, but it works.
To increase the MBE count of it (I would), add some recharge maybe once every 2 weeks.

On watering, I think I posted the usual articles a few pages ago. (Was that only yesterday?)

I agree with @Aqua Man on the lights. We have to remember that our LEDs are more intense than the sun in an indoor grow due to proximity and focusing of photon emission. That means that we can easily overpower the plant in the beginning.
 
#73
ComfortablyNumb said:
Sorry to need sleep.

That is a pretty decent potting soil. It has some of what it needs to be fully organic, but it works.
To increase the MBE count of it (I would), add some recharge maybe once every 2 weeks.

On watering, I think I posted the usual articles a few pages ago. (Was that only yesterday?)

I agree with @Aqua Man on the lights. We have to remember that our LEDs are more intense than the sun in an indoor grow due to proximity and focusing of photon emission. That means that we can easily overpower the plant in the beginning.
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I feel like I've gotten some good input from you guys. I'm here to learn. I learn best when I get to discuss ideas, rather than being told 'do this', or 'do that'. I'm sure I will be calling on many of you again as I (hopefully) progress. Thanks!
 
#74
Chernobyl water. 😂
Gotta know what’s flowing through your taps. Any Ppm over 200 I would use RO personally.
 
#75
ComfortablyNumb said:
Sorry to need sleep.

That is a pretty decent potting soil. It has some of what it needs to be fully organic, but it works.
To increase the MBE count of it (I would), add some recharge maybe once every 2 weeks.

On watering, I think I posted the usual articles a few pages ago. (Was that only yesterday?)

I agree with @Aqua Man on the lights. We have to remember that our LEDs are more intense than the sun in an indoor grow due to proximity and focusing of photon emission. That means that we can easily overpower the plant in the beginning.
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Agree. IMO nothing beats cfl for 0-3 weeks. They are fool proof. Yes - leds are more efficient but they don't make better young plants.
 
#76
growsince79 said:
Agree. IMO nothing beats cfl for 0-3 weeks. They are fool proof. Yes - leds are more efficient but they don't make better young plants.
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I chose LED out of fear of a heat problem. How are CFL in that regard? I plan on moving my grow to the basement, but right now I'm in an attic closet and can't add any heat.
 
#77
KidCharlemange said:
I chose LED out of fear of a heat problem. How are CFL in that regard? I plan on moving my grow to the basement, but right now I'm in an attic closet and can't add any heat.
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CFL's are hotter. But the overall heat production is about the same because the LED driver puts out a lot of heat as well.
 
#78
KidCharlemange said:
I chose LED out of fear of a heat problem. How are CFL in that regard? I plan on moving my grow to the basement, but right now I'm in an attic closet and can't add any heat.
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LEDs put out less heat than cfl or t5. If you are only using them for seedlings, its not enough extra heat to matter and probably helps speed root and veg growth. After 2-3 weeks they will be ready for leds. For me, they just work better.
 
#79
growsince79 said:
LEDs put out less heat than cfl or t5. If you are only using them for seedlings, its not enough extra heat to matter and probably helps speed root and veg growth. After 2-3 weeks they will be ready for leds. For me, they just work better.
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Interesting. I will have to do some experimenting once I get the basics down on this grow.

Maybe will even do some experimenting with just popping some tomatoes between now and then.
 
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