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If you grow with organics in soil do you use regular ph down?

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If you grow with organics in soil do you use regular ph down?

the123321 115 Replies 21,237 Views
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#81
Aqua Man said:
Do NOT PH unless needed for mixing nutrients like potassium silicate.

Do NOT use baking soda

Citric acid is not needed and as said you do NOT need to ph nutrients.

USE AMENDMENTS to adjust soil PH such as hydrated lime, dolomite lime to raise and aluminum sulfate to lower PH.
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Can pickling lime be used? I have it onhand, been attempting to use 1 tsp of potassium bicarbonate per gal but the runoffs are not budging beyond 5.2 pH with 8.9 solution.
 
#82
Glassdub said:
Can pickling lime be used? I have it onhand, been attempting to use 1 tsp of potassium bicarbonate per gal but the runoffs are not budging beyond 5.2 pH with 8.9 solution.
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Soil? If so you need amendments like lime... you can't adjust the ph with your feed
 
#87
Aqua Man said:
Have you checked the runoff ppm? Have pictures of the plants?
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Yes, crazy high 3457 average run off as of last water, has been going up w/o feeding, potassium bicarbonate adds about 1000-1100 to that but still.
This is the worst, top burn, immobile.
 

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#88
ppm, pH and organics don't mix well. That is why the runoff is almost 3500, organic fertilizer will not give you an accurate reading of the ppm of what is available to the plant. I don't think you need to mess with pH either because soil is supposed to have lime as a buffer in it. Check the label on your bag of soil, see if it has anything to buffer the pH, if it does, then you don't need to worry about pH at all. Especially considering the entire growth cycle is only a few months.
 
#89
LexLuthor said:
ppm, pH and organics don't mix well. That is why the runoff is almost 3500, organic fertilizer will not give you an accurate reading of the ppm of what is available to the plant. I don't think you need to mess with pH either because soil is supposed to have lime as a buffer in it. Check the label on your bag of soil, see if it has anything to buffer the pH, if it does, then you don't need to worry about pH at all. Especially considering the entire growth cycle is only a few months.
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This is what I heard & this is why I didn't flip out over the high PPMs but the pH dive of a full 1.0 on 5-22, never to return to in range kinda did, especially when the top leaves started to brown. I made the mistake of thinking AgroThrive was not really high NPK during veg, The Chemdog plant above was always a bit finicky & a bit blotchy, early on I thought it was underfed & tried to compensate.
I don't think AgroThrive is bad stuff but I just need a get used to using it right, for now I just want to ride out the final month minimizing the damage done.
 
#90
Organic soil adjusts it's own pH. That's just part of the organic package.
The pics above look like they were fed in addition to organics. Too much of one thing led to lockout of another.
 
#91
So this is peat moss not soil. I agree with organics you don't want to read to much into ppm but they do look a bit over fed.

Do you have a water only in your cycle?

These nutrients are organically derived so not quite the same as organic amendments and are quite a bit more available.

The peat mix you are using had lime added and imo it's a slight overfeeding that is the culprit for your ph.

It's early but imo a flush and a light feed for the next water should help.

I have a feeling your on the way to a lockout.

With organic I wouldn't worry about the ppm, ph etc. But with organically derived I would say it's likely that there is a buildup of nutrients by looking at the plant.

Some light stress also but not over the top just pushing em hard.
 
#92
ComfortablyNumb said:
Organic soil adjusts it's own pH. That's just part of the organic package.
The pics above look like they were fed in addition to organics. Too much of one thing led to lockout of another.
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I've only used AgroThrive & Pro-Tekt most of the run, Added Cal/Mag well into flower, that's it.
 
#93
Aqua Man said:
So this is peat moss not soil. I agree with organics you don't want to read to much into ppm but they do look a bit over fed.

Do you have a water only in your cycle?

These nutrients are organically derived so not quite the same as organic amendments and are quite a bit more available.

The peat mix you are using had lime added and imo it's a slight overfeeding that is the culprit for your ph.

It's early but imo a flush and a light feed for the next water should help.

I have a feeling your on the way to a lockout.

With organic I wouldn't worry about the ppm, ph etc. But with organically derived I would say it's likely that there is a buildup of nutrients by looking at the plant.

Some light stress also but not over the top just pushing em hard.
Click to expand...
Well, water & just ProTekt last water, the same with Cal/mag the time before, I figured going too heavy on the AgroThrive is was what cause the acid + earlier on I was using tap water more, I think I'm locking out now.
 
#94
Glassdub said:
I've only used AgroThrive & Pro-Tekt most of the run, Added Cal/Mag well into flower, that's it.
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You should only need the Agro-Thrive during the first two weeks. It's pre-digested soil/food so its available immediately. So, it's possibly adding to the food that is already in the soil and is now caught up. Over feeding.
The Pro-Tekt is silica. A good quality organic soil should already have this in it. You should not need to add this either but once or twice before flower is fine.
Filter your water. It won't fix anything, but it helps to get rid of stuff that can throw your grow off.
 
#95
ComfortablyNumb said:
You should only need the Agro-Thrive during the first two weeks. It's pre-digested soil/food so its available immediately. So, it's possibly adding to the food that is already in the soil and is now caught up. Over feeding.
The Pro-Tekt is silica. A good quality organic soil should already have this in it. You should not need to add this either but once or twice before flower is fine.
Filter your water. It won't fix anything, but it helps to get rid of stuff that can throw your grow off.
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Started on 3-28, started with 1oz of AT (as suggested) on 4-3, at the time I was using tap water I have a Micron 10 carbon filer on the house water.
 
#96
Glassdub said:
Started on 3-28, started with 1oz of AT (as suggested) on 4-3, at the time I was using tap water I have a Micron 10 carbon filer on the house water.
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You are trying to grow organic, so quit feeding them and put an MBE treatment in there. The MBE's (Microbes, Bacteria, Enzymes) are what make the food. Without them, soil might last 3 weeks.
www.realgrowers.com
 
#97
ComfortablyNumb said:
You are trying to grow organic, so quit feeding them and put an MBE treatment in there. The MBE's (Microbes, Bacteria, Enzymes) are what make the food. Without them, soil might last 3 weeks.
www.realgrowers.com
Click to expand...
I was considering this, wasn't sure if it would help.
shop.npk-industries.com

RAW Microbes Bloom Stage | Beneficial Bacteria & Fungi | Flower & Fruit Support

Beneficial microbes for bloom stage. Supports nutrient uptake, stress resilience, and soil health. Double tested for accuracy.
shop.npk-industries.com shop.npk-industries.com
 
#98
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