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**2nd Grow** SpiderFarmer SF4000 , NFTG #4 -Sour Power-Hella Jelly-Strawberry Cheesecake- 3x3 Tent

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**2nd Grow** SpiderFarmer SF4000 , NFTG #4 -Sour Power-Hella Jelly-Strawberry Cheesecake- 3x3 Tent

Dothraki 507 Replies 57,349 Views
Page 15 of 26 · Replies 281–300 of 508
#281
Dothraki said:
I was thinking more like, leave 3 nodes (possibly cut the lowest set of branches later) and have 4 main branches and keep them stripped on the lower thirds. LST each branch with tie downs so it’s the width of the pot in an X shape but the ends of the X grow straight upwards with colas on each. I think my buddy does something similar, where the trunk and stem structure resembles one of those copper colored wire claws you get from Bed Bath & Beyond to “massage” your scalp. Like an upside down one of those. I suppose it is similar to manifold but without all the little secondary offshoot branches. Would it be an extra couple months veg just from topping? Or is it the topping plus stripping etc?


Do you have a pic of what the skeleton looks like after drying? Or where I can see the stem/branch structure?
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Probably not 3 months if you were chasing 8 colas ... which is typically what an indoor grower will run. Some people will do 16 colas, which is where veg time really begins to increase .... likewise, the few who will take the veg time to manifold 32 colas will be in veg the longest...

In truth, I might have exaggerated a little bit about the length of veg time for an 8 cola mainlined plant. However, probably not for 16 colas ... and 32 colas would take longer. If you're up to the task, it is a good way to make plants that grow very large fit in smaller spaces. You have to start this when the plant is small though.
 
#282
So I’m thinking of topping above the 5th node (counting the lowest branches as the first node), then removing the 2 lowest branches, stripping the lower 3rd of the plant, and using ties to get the canopy somewhat level and shapes that are manageable in the 3x3 space. That would theoretically leave 8 colas per plant right?
 
#284
Dothraki said:
So I’m thinking of topping above the 5th node (counting the lowest branches as the first node), then removing the 2 lowest branches, stripping the lower 3rd of the plant, and using ties to get the canopy somewhat level and shapes that are manageable in the 3x3 space. That would theoretically leave 8 colas per plant right?
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How many plants in the 3x3?
 
#285
Dothraki said:
I think this is 1 out of 2 of the Healthiest looking in the bunch. I actually forgot to mention this strain because it was popped last minute, called All Gas OG aka Asphalt Plant. Hoping to be my sleepy time strain 😴
I see what ya mean…I keep looking for an answer and some people count from the cotyledons and some count from the 3rd node up it seems lol. When you say wait for 1 or 2 nodes…would you cut at those nodes or wait for 2 more then cut where it is now? Like is it beneficial to let the plant get a little bigger before topping to help the recovery?


So would that pretty much look like an X with a cola at each end? That sounds like it would be nice and clean, take up less space and make it super easy to get the watering can in there, prune etc.. I need to see a pic, but is that the right idea in a nutshell?
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Yo brotha. Yeah it definitely doesn't seem to be an exact science. Tack on my limited experience and I'm just "wingin it" right along with ya. Personally, I would wait for the node that is growing out in the pic to get bigger and snip right then. If you are to top twice, some would say to wait for one node to grow out, then top after the next. So above the 4th and then above the 6th. I think I botched that this grow and just did 4 then 5 and I wouldn't know the difference. Maybe there is a bene to allowing some nodes to grow out like 4th 5th 6th then cutting above the 4th but to me that seems like would be inefficient use of time. I think the cotyledon and the 1st pointed leaf set don't count and consider the 1st 3 fingered set as node 1. So with that 94% likely to be wrong belief 😂 I would cut where I drew. In the pic you just don't(didn't) have enough growth yet to snip
 

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#286
growsince79 said:
How many plants in the 3x3?
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4 3G and 2 2G but only if I keep them all. 1 might be a male and 2 will most likely herm. But I do have another tent in case I have to split them up in flower.

PerfecTrader said:
Yo brotha. Yeah it definitely doesn't seem to be an exact science. Tack on my limited experience and I'm just "wingin it" right along with ya. Personally, I would wait for the node that is growing out in the pic to get bigger and snip right then. If you are to top twice, some would say to wait for one node to grow out, then top after the next. So above the 4th and then above the 6th. I think I botched that this grow and just did 4 then 5 and I wouldn't know the difference. Maybe there is a bene to allowing some nodes to grow out like 4th 5th 6th then cutting above the 4th but to me that seems like would be inefficient use of time. I think the cotyledon and the 1st pointed leaf set don't count and consider the 1st 3 fingered set as node 1. So with that 94% likely to be wrong belief 😂 I would cut where I drew. In the pic you just don't(didn't) have enough growth yet to snip
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Ah gotchya, I assume the benefit would be a stronger root system and more developed plant. Maybe more likely to recover quickly. I’ll roll with that and wait for that node at least, maybe one more. Thanks!!
 
#291
Dothraki said:
I FUCKING KNEW IT HAHAHAHA!!!!

So there ya go guys…that’s why I need to PH my water.
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No. This is why you don't mess about with things like pH up and down and you let a good buffered soil & nutrients do the work 😂

NTFG or whatever it is you're using is not the greatest stuff bruv. With that being said it's only happening on one plant and not impacting new growth so I wouldn't stress about it unless it progresses 🤙
 
#293
Shaded_One said:
No. This is why you don't mess about with things like pH up and down and you let a good buffered soil & nutrients do the work 😂

NTFG or whatever it is you're using is not the greatest stuff bruv. With that being said it's only happening on one plant and not impacting new growth so I wouldn't stress about it unless it progresses 🤙
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I didn’t use any PH up or down…that’s what I’m saying. If I had PH’d like the NFTG guy told me to…maybe it would be fine instead of looking like Little Shop of Horrors. I’m pretty sure I heard it say something. By next week it’ll probably be strong enough to pull itself out of the tent and climb upstairs while I’m sleeping.
 
#294
Dothraki said:
I didn’t use any PH up or down…that’s what I’m saying. If I had PH’d like the NFTG guy told me to…maybe it would be fine instead of looking like Little Shop of Horrors. I’m pretty sure I heard it say something. By next week it’ll probably be strong enough to pull itself out of the tent and climb upstairs while I’m sleeping.
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I forget exactly what your medium is but last grow I was in 50/50 coco/perl giving bottled nutes like advanced nutrients. PH'ing every feed and constantly playing chemist was driving me nutz. On top of that every tme I felt Like I was beginning to have a deficiency I really wasn't able to do anything about it anyway. Took almost the entire grow to realize the "PH Perfect" Advanced Nutrients line were not meant to adjust up or down at all. Well that made no sense since the PH began to swing drastically of what I was feeding and I couldn't adjust if wanted. I would add down and it would go up. Add up and it would go down. Played the flush game with and without additives and in the end I feel I perma-locked my roots a bit from absorbing some nutes properly. @CannaGranny told me there was another way and I didn't need to make things so difficult. She told me how to toss some soil together properly and she will likely lash me with a wet noodle again 😂 but I have not PH'ed a single time and I'm 2 weeks into flower. I just don't at all feel I need to and it has been a blessing for sure.
 
#295
Dothraki said:
4 3G and 2 2G but only if I keep them all. 1 might be a male and 2 will most likely herm. But I do have another tent in case I have to split them up in flower.


Ah gotchya, I assume the benefit would be a stronger root system and more developed plant. Maybe more likely to recover quickly. I’ll roll with that and wait for that node at least, maybe one more. Thanks!!
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If you want 8 big colas per plant, 3 plants is probably all you can fit in the 3x3.
 
#296
PerfecTrader said:
I forget exactly what your medium is but last grow I was in 50/50 coco/perl giving bottled nutes like advanced nutrients. PH'ing every feed and constantly playing chemist was driving me nutz. On top of that every tme I felt Like I was beginning to have a deficiency I really wasn't able to do anything about it anyway. Took almost the entire grow to realize the "PH Perfect" Advanced Nutrients line were not meant to adjust up or down at all. Well that made no sense since the PH began to swing drastically of what I was feeding and I couldn't adjust if wanted. I would add down and it would go up. Add up and it would go down. Played the flush game with and without additives and in the end I feel I perma-locked my roots a bit from absorbing some nutes properly. @CannaGranny told me there was another way and I didn't need to make things so difficult. She told me how to toss some soil together properly and she will likely lash me with a wet noodle again 😂 but I have not PH'ed a single time and I'm 2 weeks into flower. I just don't at all feel I need to and it has been a blessing for sure.
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That’s great! Sounds like an ideal scenerio too. I’m sure most people don’t need to PH, especially in soil but everyone has different water too. The NFTG line is a calcium based nutrient program, not Nitrogen based like most. I’m not a plant chemist so I can’t explain in detail…but apparently adjusting PH is critical for the best outcome with NFTG especially if your water is high Alkalinity and high PH (which mine is unfortunately). But if not PH’d after a while with the calcium carbonate build up from my water the soil PH will continue to rise and won’t allow proper chelation of certain nutrients.
 
#298
Dothraki said:
I didn’t use any PH up or down…that’s what I’m saying. If I had PH’d like the NFTG guy told me to…maybe it would be fine instead of looking like Little Shop of Horrors. I’m pretty sure I heard it say something. By next week it’ll probably be strong enough to pull itself out of the tent and climb upstairs while I’m sleeping.
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But you're forgetting that last grow was in coco. This one is in soil. Despite the fact that they look similar they don't behave the same. Adjusting nutrient pH in a coco grow is usually considered standard operating procedures... but not in soil.

Disclaimer: The comments I made have nothing to do with the nutrients you used. It's more about the SOP's ... (standard operating procedures.)
 
#299
Dothraki said:
That’s great! Sounds like an ideal scenerio too. I’m sure most people don’t need to PH, especially in soil but everyone has different water too. The NFTG line is a calcium based nutrient program, not Nitrogen based like most. I’m not a plant chemist so I can’t explain in detail…but apparently adjusting PH is critical for the best outcome with NFTG especially if your water is high Alkalinity and high PH (which mine is unfortunately). But if not PH’d after a while with the calcium carbonate build up from my water the soil PH will continue to rise and won’t allow proper chelation of certain nutrients.
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Ph adjusting does not remove alkalinity… it will build up no matter what if not getting proper run off with synthetic nutrients.

if you want to control media ph of soil then amend the soil.

the ph potential of the soil is far more influential and your ph adjustments to nutrients will hardly do anything and extremely temporary.

Thats the truth from someone who understands PH and Alkalinit… they are related but they are FAR from the same
 
#300
MIGrampaUSA said:
But you're forgetting that last grow was in coco. This one is in soil. Despite the fact that they look similar they don't behave the same. Adjusting nutrient pH in a coco grow is usually considered standard operating procedures... but not in soil.

Disclaimer: The comments I made have nothing to do with the nutrients you used. It's more about SOP's ... standard operating procedures.
Click to expand...
Aqua Man said:
Ph adjusting does not remove alkalinity… it will build up no matter what if not getting proper run off with synthetic nutrients.

if you want to control media ph of soil then amend the soil.

the ph potential of the soil is far more influential and your ph adjustments to nutrients will hardly do anything and extremely temporary.
Click to expand...
Who said PH adjusting removes alkalinity? My understanding is the PH will dictate if the calcium is able to chelate the magnesium in the medium. So that would be between 6.2-6.5 with nftg. If my soil is sitting at 6.9 or 7.2 , because of the calcium carbonate depositing in the soil over time, that would cause issues right?

So…feeding at proper PH (6.3) and then watering at around 6.1-6.3 on water only days to help keep the PH stable at the roots, fighting against the constant drift, rising PH (which would be due to the calcium carbonate buildup).
 
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