Mold, The Outdoor Growers Worst Nightmare

[Chobble]

Compost tea can have amazing results if made properly.

I would like to think I brew some mean ACT. I just want to make it even better, Im hoping one of those two additives will make it even better. Im hoping the actinovate doesn't out compete the other bene's.

Chobble

 

[ttystikk]

Yeah, Im contemplating trying the horsetail, milk and actinovate in my teas. I have two identical plants growing right next to each other to run tests on. I think I will brew horsetail into my tea on one, and brew the other one with Milk or actinovate treated ACT.

I normally run my ACT through a cheese cloth, Do you think that's enough?

Chobble

I would think so- you don't want to go finer because you'll end up straining all the goodies out.

 

[Chobble]

I would think so- you don't want to go finer because you'll end up straining all the goodies out.

Alright great, Thats what I thought :D

Chobbs

 

[Seamaiden]

Actinovate brand organic fungicide

Active ingredient; streptomyces lycidus 0.0371%

Looks rather similar to that Ag Streptomycin, yes?

No, not quite the same to my eyes, but it could simply be due to how it's labelled. If you look at the AS, it's labeled thus:

ACTIVE INGREDIENT: % BY WT.
Streptomycin Sulfate (equivalent to 17% streptomycin)
(CAS #3810-74-0) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.4%
OTHER INGREDIENTS:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.6%
TOTAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100.0%

Now, I'm sitting here looking at one of the more recent catalogs I've received from Peaceful Valley, and on page 28 of the Catalog 2012, product C, Agri-Mycin.

Agricultural streptomycin bacteria is registered for fire blight in pears and apples, and for bacterial spot in tomatoes and peppers. Pesticide ID# required for ALL CA customers.

They did this with JMS Stylet oil last year, so I ended up buying directly from the manufacturer, huge WTF? moment on that, ya know? No label, and hell if I can find it listed on the website. Why do they do that? List things for sale in the catalog that you apparently cannot order online, require shit like pesticide ID#s for OMRI registered products like this and JMS when no such proof is required by the state (as far as I can determine). Meh, makes them less and less appealing to me over time. Not to mention that BOTH bare root pears I bought directly from them never took.

 

[Capulator]

There are 2 species of streptomycin in my root pack @around 5 billion spores per gram. Its a lot cheaper than those products I'll bet.

Actinovate is unecessary with the root pack.

 

[Chobble]

There are 2 species of streptomycin in my root pack @around 5 billion spores per gram. Its a lot cheaper than those products I'll bet.

Actinovate is unecessary with the root pack.

I figured that :p I intend to play around with your bennies. I get some from the Local UC but I dont think they're anything next to what your packing

 

[ttystikk]

There are 2 species of streptomycin in my root pack @around 5 billion spores per gram. Its a lot cheaper than those products I'll bet.

Actinovate is unecessary with the root pack.

I'm ordering as soon as I get a crop in and have money for them. Do I want the root pak for RDWC? How about for coco? Gonna convert one RDWC by putting 5 gallon bucket inserts full of coco/hydroton and run a top drip manifold, UC Earth style. Need to know the bennies lowdown on this approach. Would you recommend drain to waste or recirc?

 

[Capulator]

I'm ordering as soon as I get a crop in and have money for them. Do I want the root pak for RDWC? How about for coco? Gonna convert one RDWC by putting 5 gallon bucket inserts full of coco/hydroton and run a top drip manifold, UC Earth style. Need to know the bennies lowdown on this approach. Would you recommend drain to waste or recirc?

I use the root and foliar for my rdwc. I use the nute pack here and there, but most of my stuff is straight hydro. You can use all three packs in coco and soil. just root and foliar for hydro.

 

[ttystikk]

I use the root and foliar for my rdwc. I use the nute pack here and there, but most of my stuff is straight hydro. You can use all three packs in coco and soil. just root and foliar for hydro.

What's currently being contemplated is a full-on side by side run, coco on one side, RDWC on the other; same room, so same temps, RH and CO2; same Jacks nutes, same basic 5 gallon bucket systems... This could be goooood.... lol So far the only variable is clones, working on that.

 

[Chobble]

What's currently being contemplated is a full-on side by side run, coco on one side, RDWC on the other; same room, so same temps, RH and CO2; same Jacks nutes, same basic 5 gallon bucket systems... This could be goooood.... lol So far the only variable is clones, working on that.

Silly question but why is your only variable clones? Do you not keep mothers?

 

[ttystikk]

Silly question but why is your only variable clones? Do you not keep mothers?

NOT a silly question at all- since this is a collaborative effort, the other guy has his fav. strains dialed in, and I have mine. In order for the side by side to have valid figures for comparisons, we need to figure out whose to use, and how many.

 

[buddogmutt]

i never have mold or fungis probs....man you folks gotta do some reading and stop relying on others...mold and fungis are crop killers...exspecially in flower...in veg you got action at curing..but why noy just prevent?..prevention is much easier then curing...get some Eagle 20ew and use as a preplant dip for clones and clone size seedlings...and never worry!...a systemic prevention...

 

[Capulator]

i never have mold or fungis probs....man you folks gotta do some reading and stop relying on others...mold and fungis are crop killers...exspecially in flower...in veg you got action at curing..but why noy just prevent?..prevention is much easier then curing...get some Eagle 20ew and use as a preplant dip for clones and clone size seedlings...and never worry!...a systemic prevention...

Eagle 20 is for pm, NOT budrot. It is also pretty toxic and should only be used as a last resort, if that. PM can develop resistance to E20 if it is sprayed too often. IMHO, saying you never had a problem...either you haven't been growing long enough, or you have just been really, really lucky.

healthy plants are the best systemic prevention. Be careful with systemics that are designed more for turf grass and not so much for MMJ.

-Cap

 

[buddogmutt]

i use it every grow...I KNOW...you did a google search and now your what? educating me...lol...lol..i have the product...i know all about it...and has always used as a preplant dip...the title is mold...not budrot..and mold leads to budrot(one of the many things that do)...prevent the mold/less chance of rot...

 

[buddogmutt]

MOLD....PM...FUNGI....its a flu shot aginst all i mentioned.....

 

[buddogmutt]

Ive grown for years...nothing to do with luck!!!...this is a science!!! not a crap shoot....arm yourself with the knowledge requiored and grow flawlessly...too bad you cant believe that...check all my threads...never one asking for help or assistance...only great grows and helping others.....lol...some people

 

[Chobble]

A lot of people "Grow for years" Using secret ingredient fertilizers and fung/pesticides that pulse through the veins of the plant. In turn you smoke these dangerous chemicals THAT ARNT EVEN APPROVED FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION. They package these carcinogens to patients using marijauna to ease there pain, some with cancer already.

By adding things to make it "easy" you are hurting the people you mean to care for. Marijuana is not a business of careless growing tactics. Its about Compassion and care.

The sad part is you dont realize how much the plant absorbs through its stomata (The pores on its leaf),

But hey, You know better then myself ttystikk and cap so shit son....

Chobble.

 

[Seamaiden]

i use it every grow...I KNOW...you did a google search and now your what? educating me...lol...lol..i have the product...i know all about it...and has always used as a preplant dip...the title is mold...not budrot..and mold leads to budrot(one of the many things that do)...prevent the mold/less chance of rot...

MOLD....PM...FUNGI....its a flu shot aginst all i mentioned.....

you folks are clueless...lol....its not what you do but how you do it...and as a PREPLANT DIP...its 100% harmless and safe and benificial....any other attempted info is obviously from those who dont know!!!! PERIOD!!!..id never use anytime after the 2nd wk of veg....all you have to do is research..not read the first paragraph of a google search!!!..lol

P.S....i and every1 who's lucky enough to sample my grows are very happy....up your knowledge!..you'll thank yourself you did!

Whoa... Even you haven't read the label on your E20 if you're posting stuff like this. E20 is effective ONLY against PM fungi, and it's well documented to cause resistance. Everything else you're saying is so false as to become dangerous to others.

Read the label on your bottle, become better educated about this product.

 

[buddogmutt]

and you quote me and speak with such certainty...lol..and in all reality you only show how little you actually know!...i find that hilarious....

 

[Seamaiden]

wow.....eagle 20 IS a fungiside...so obviously all fungi is included...PM is a fungus...what do you think mold is?.....FYI mold/molds are fungi not bacteria!

Are you fucking kidding me??? No, I think you're serious. I think you truly believe what you're posting. Wow. But wait, there's more, and you get shitty, too!

..also any other fungi that may hit a marijuana plant...PM isnt the only one just the most common! outdoor plants are hit by insects...insects carry all types of fungi that can hurt a marijuana plant..i didnt think i had to get that remedial in my explaination!..lol..but okay...and how does that make my info wrong?....as long as it can be treated with eagle 20 in early veg its okay?

Um, no, you're the one who's in need of the more basic, remedial as you put it, education here.

Start with learning about the organisms you're dealing with. I won't suggest learning a little more about whom you're dealing with, I don't think you'll care. But you have a WHOLE lot of learning to do about the different families and genuses of fungi, molds, yeasts, etc.


Folks, I'm just going to suggest that when considering any information proffered, you also consider the source. We have here a person who doesn't grasp the differences between fungi such as, say, powdery mildew spp. and, for another example, bud rot that occurs so frequently in some areas, or as a result of insect violation and frass (I'mma let *you* look that one up yourself buddogmutt, mkay?). According to our friend here, E20 is not only effective against them both, it's perfectly safe and, get this, beneficial! Not even the E20 advocates would say such a thing.

The level of ignorance displayed in a single page of this thread is astounding. It's also an excellent reminder that the best way to stay safe is to ONLY grow your own. It also serves as awesome ammunition for the anti-cannabis crowd, and for that I guess I can't thank you enough, can I?