10 Blue Dream Trees - 11kw Vertical

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M

mrdizzle

thats a little dramatic chicken joe

you can order avid and foramite from rosemania
they are small, and in early veg

bomb the room, spray , bomb, spray, and you honestly shouldnt have a mite problem

shit you can rub each and every leaf with your fingers to make sure your hit every inch of those girls

whatevre you do, start doing it and doing it often. switch up what you spray but try to do it something every 4days
 
U

UCtestn

Very nice set up and ill be subscribing. I gotta give u my advice on the spider mites jusy from experience from growing 4-5' trees for cuttings in socal:
1. First...you ARE NOT totally screwed if you have mites. But u have to deal with them appropriately or u will be fighting a battle the entire time. People who lose gardens to mites and other pests usually find out too late, and/or use the wrong measure or solution for the scope of their garden.

2. Your scope is large my friend. There is a huge difference between what u are trying to accomplish in the end and a guy in a small hydrohut or flood tray. Your goal I assume is to grow 10 or so very large 2-3 lb trees. But all the methods so far suggested are not appropriate for your scope. But much better suited for a smaller garden.

3. Personally I would bomb the room first with a pyrithium fogger first. Use the little white ones and pass on the dr. doom garbage. Next, I would go to my local hydroshop and see if I could find avid, floromite, or forbid. If they have one great. If you find two of the three I mentioned then best. So after bombing, id wait three days and tree with pesticide and a good wetting agent (penetrator, cocowet, wet betty, etc). Then id wait three additional days and apply second spray of pesticide and wetting agent. Its best to alternate miticides if you can, but if all u can find is one type then that will work fine.

***azamax and the others are good products but are best to "control" mites than totally irradicate them. Azamax is really just a concentrated neem oil and simply relying on them will almost insure a 8-10 week ongoing fight with the mites. My technique will irradicate them forever and the only way you will get another outbreak is by reintroducing them. U can use the azamax or whatever else as a control once you irradicate them. In a garden that size you should be doing routine sprays on your mothers and clones monthly before plants even enter your flowering room.

***its best to use sprays immediate upon mixing. I throw out and remaining sprays after 24 hours as they lose there potency.

***get yourself a decent 1 gallon pump sprayer from your local home depot, and be sure to use long sleeves and pants. Contrary to common belief, as strong as these miticides are they,are NOT MODAL. Meaning that they are not systemic and they do not travel within the plant. They only affect sprayed areas directly so your situation is ideal and they will not affect the flowers in any way. Avid is commonly used in the tomato industry on fruit headed directly to your local grocery story.

You have a "bigboy or expert garden" there, so only use appropriate or expert level measures...

I never quote a full post... this is worth quoting... ^^^READ THIS

rosemania or ebay for the forbid4f, floramite and Avid. EVERY 3-4 DAYS no exemptions. You think you don't have them, you still do. You have a long veg time ahead, you will change out to Azamax, neem oil and lady bugs later on if you want.

While you are at it, get some nematodes from your hydro store and water those in. If you have mites, lord knows what might be in your containers.

As for your lights... only turn on a light or two at most. Raise them up, or if veggin with the verts, keep them far! like 5ft.

I have questions on your room, but you should REALLY start the floramite, forbid and Avid rotation NOW. All the poison will be long gone prior to harvest...
 
ape

ape

No worries.

Forbid is much stronger than both avid and floramite. I also find dunking not necessary when using a fresh batch of pesticide and a good wetting agent. In my opinion with a good pump sprayer he could be done treating his plants that size in less than 10 mins. The only reason these pesticides dont work is when they are not used how I described. Dont wanna sound like a know it all, but have had a few breakouts over an 8 year period and always irradicated them. Each time had to treat over at least 100 4-5' mothers which makes his situation look like a walk in the park. The only time I would ever get an outbreak it was a worker of mine taking untreated plants in. Also, I would NEVER just rely on the floramite. Its definitely the weakest of the three I suggest, but great when used in rotation with others.

Last I was caring for 244 mothers using the method I described. I never threw a single plant out ever. The collection was over 8 years old. Simply diagose the problem early and deal with it properly. Throwing his cuts out and starting over is an option, in my situation it wasnt because I had some of the rarest varieties (Chemdog 91 sk va, tahoe, fire cut, triangle kush, hells angel cut, louie XIII, etc) so I learned to treat the problem right. Throwing his out may set him back 3 weeks. Treating them as I suggest will take maybe an hour with plants that size for all treatments combined.

Biggest points to re-stress is always use fresh batch of pesticides and a good wetting agent. And rotate types of pesticide every application. Work your way from the bottoms up on the plants working under the leaves and then finally spray all tops. Always mix at full recommended dosage and NEVER go "light or half strength because u didnt want it to burn" because u will definitely have failure. I always wait at least a week after spraying any neem product. I always worry about spraying directly after an oil based product.

Greencoast stores carry the forbid, while Family stores carry the floramite. Avid can be found too...all can be found in bulk at rosemaina dot com. Stores usually make it available in much smaller sizes.
 
Aligee

Aligee

Very informative Ape ive lost a gem or two to mites !!! thats the reason i dont except cuts without spraying them 1st ...
 

ChickenJoe

Guest
thats a little dramatic chicken joe

Is it? Or is making sure you dont get spider mites worth an extra 30 days veg time when you are looking at that kind of harvest??

If i could have went back and done it over i would have taken the 30 days 100x over.


FCK SPIDER MITES
 
M

Mr.

I am going out today to pick up all of the recommended products. Thanks for all of the feedback and compliments! Ape, thanks for taking the time to give such detailed instruction, and ChickenJoe I get what you are saying but this garden will move at full speed ahead despite the mites and I will try to make our experiences different. When I bomb the room do I leave the plants in the room, or take them out? I plan to leave them in. Should I add Azamax to my nutrient solutiion to kill anything in the medium, or is that useless if I do all of the other treatments?

Also, it is getting to be time to feed these girls and I am still not 100% sure what ppm/ec they should receive. I mixed up a batch of nutes with A&B, Algen, Roots excel, Great white, Drip Clean, and Silica. The ppm is 700, EC is 1.4, ph 5.8. Should I add more base nutes or is that level good for these 12-18inch plants?

I'd like to transplant them into the 3gallon SP's within the next few days. Any reason why I shouldn't?
 

ChickenJoe

Guest
The bombs they sell now arent going to do anything but delay your problem. Azamax works to an extent but its not going to get'er done like you are wanting it too.

Avid or floramite(never used floramite but it works) and spray EVERYTHING in the room down, dip the plants if possible.

wait to transplant until everything in that room but the plants are dead.:) just my opinions.



I am going out today to pick up all of the recommended products. Thanks for all of the feedback and compliments! Ape, thanks for taking the time to give such detailed instruction, and ChickenJoe I get what you are saying but this garden will move at full speed ahead despite the mites and I will try to make our experiences different. When I bomb the room do I leave the plants in the room, or take them out? I plan to leave them in. Should I add Azamax to my nutrient solutiion to kill anything in the medium, or is that useless if I do all of the other treatments?

Also, it is getting to be time to feed these girls and I am still not 100% sure what ppm/ec they should receive. I mixed up a batch of nutes with A&B, Algen, Roots excel, Great white, Drip Clean, and Silica. The ppm is 700, EC is 1.4, ph 5.8. Should I add more base nutes or is that level good for these 12-18inch plants?

I'd like to transplant them into the 3gallon SP's within the next few days. Any reason why I shouldn't?
 
U

UCtestn

Your food is fine... a little hot for my taste. Less is more, even with nute hungry ladies like BD. Then again I feed, feed, water...

Why the drip clean?
 
M

Mr.

Your food is fine... a little hot for my taste. Less is more, even with nute hungry ladies like BD. Then again I feed, feed, water...

Why the drip clean?

For minimal runoff when feeding. I would rather use drip clean and handle a gallon or less of runoff than have to flush a 25 gallon pot of coco and have to handle 50+ gallons of runoff.

I am going to feed them with the 700ppm 1.4EC solution within the next half hour. If anybody thinks I should decrease the dose then let me know soon please.

I now have Avid and the white canister p. bombs. I have heard that the p. bombs can stunt their growth and potentially burn them. Can I have the fogger 10-20 ft. away from them in the room to lessen those chances and it still be effective?

I put two Hot Shot Strips in the room. They are hanging from the table underneath the plants, but I remove them when I am working inside the room
 
D

DixinCider

honestly from exp i wouldn't bomb the room with the plants in there. yes, it can burn them. if you have avid (good stuff like floramite) then you should be fine.
pull the plants out of you're room turn all fans off ect. let the bomb chill for 3 hours.
while the bombs fogging the room dunk/spray avid on you're plants every 3 days tell there gone, then flower. you should be fine now that you have some chemicals to kill them, apes right tho azamax is good, but it's just not total control.
 
D

DixinCider

about about you're feeding it depends what conversion rate you're using (.5 .7 ect.) i start my veg plants at 800ppms(.7) and max them out at about 1150-1200(.7)
you can find out you're conversion factor buy looking at you're ppm calibration solution.
 
M

Mr.

Im diggin the chain link on the ceiling!

Thanks, it was a b getting it up there nice and tight and so was twisting in the gazillion screw hooks. I'm sure I could have used less, but I sleep better at night knowing it is secure.

Since I sprayed azamax last night do I need to wait three days before spraying avid, or bombing? Some, but not all of the leaves got a little bit of that saggy upside down canoe look after the aza spray at 85% of the max rate. I sprayed them with ro water this morning to rinse off extra aza residue and they look better.
 
N

norm

First off. sick room man, really clean and nicely built. lots of details and nice thread layout as well. I would like to hear some about the security but understand why you left it out. security is always number 1 here.
How do you like the quantums?

I agree with ape and the others. dont waste your time with the azamax, take it back if its unused and if you do use it wait a week and give some sprays of just water in between. you want to use avid or florimite. I have heard of mites in socal that seem to have a resistance to florimite, so I would grab avid, and like the others said, for the amount of foliage you have to treat you can buy a couple 1 oz bottles for 20 a piece from a number of places. but I also get my pesticides from rosemania and a couple buddys told me about two other products that really help, stirrup, and hexygon. the hexygon is an ovicide so it kills the egs and the stirrup is a mite attractant chemical...and treally the three of them will totally annilate without having to use all these foggers. foggers generally arent the most effective in getting 100% rid of them. Id just spray everything down and wipe it with these 3 one time and they will be gone. Im sure you know but go get a chem suit and a respirator both for under 100 bucks and have your skin 100% covered.

all that said, chems will do some sort of shock on your girls and definitly slow them down for a little while at least. if fresh healthy pest free plants are availible, take them and deal with your room, time is money and I know your in socal.

as far as the ballast dimming feature, its up to you. all in preference to the way your lighting is set up and how easy it is to move your lights/hoods. I never use it, I just adjust the hoods becuase when I was messing with that feature I burned up more bulbs.

do you have a plant limit?

I agree with joe about transplantsing before all your mites are gone, and it wont take long anyway. But I also wouldnt xplant them unless they are drying out every other day.

a couple other things to consider.

topping those plants would really help you

why so many nutrients? you could cut ALOT of that out and have as good or better results.

wondering why the chunky perlite. Ive grown both ways and just really feel like perlite is not needed and really just complicates things further than 100% coco.

with co2 you need to be at 80-82 F
 
D

Donkdbz

Sup Sup here is cage I was telling you about. This was apes cut of Blue Dream.

Last Day of Veg

IMG_3746.JPG


dunno where finish pic is
 
ape

ape

Nutes...

I feed with my base nutes (AN, cutting edge, dutchmaster gold, cns17) with no additives at about 900ppm when they are first going under 12hrs. Unless its house and garden brand. I find I have to run house and garden aqua flakes at around 1150ppm to get the same results. Next, id run my additives at their recommended dosages on the label or respective websites.

Keep your plants in the room when u fog. U might as well take full advantage of the situation.

No need to rush to azamax without accessing the situation first. Simply examine the rootball when making your transplants. The only real threat inside the pots would be root aphids. With plants that large u would have noticed them by now, and at the very worse they would be easy to spot while transplanting. And root aphids are simple to deal with since merit75 and imidichloprid (bayer) can now be found at every Home Depot now.
 
ape

ape

Fogger info...

Just dont have the fogger in your gardens canopy and u wont c burning. Im just not so sure I would fog right after need. The neem probably wasnt needed with everything else, but it will work.

All u need to do is have your foggers in the same room.
 
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