Very nice set up and ill be subscribing. I gotta give u my advice on the spider mites jusy from experience from growing 4-5' trees for cuttings in socal:
1. First...you ARE NOT totally screwed if you have mites. But u have to deal with them appropriately or u will be fighting a battle the entire time. People who lose gardens to mites and other pests usually find out too late, and/or use the wrong measure or solution for the scope of their garden.
2. Your scope is large my friend. There is a huge difference between what u are trying to accomplish in the end and a guy in a small hydrohut or flood tray. Your goal I assume is to grow 10 or so very large 2-3 lb trees. But all the methods so far suggested are not appropriate for your scope. But much better suited for a smaller garden.
3. Personally I would bomb the room first with a pyrithium fogger first. Use the little white ones and pass on the dr. doom garbage. Next, I would go to my local hydroshop and see if I could find avid, floromite, or forbid. If they have one great. If you find two of the three I mentioned then best. So after bombing, id wait three days and tree with pesticide and a good wetting agent (penetrator, cocowet, wet betty, etc). Then id wait three additional days and apply second spray of pesticide and wetting agent. Its best to alternate miticides if you can, but if all u can find is one type then that will work fine.
***azamax and the others are good products but are best to "control" mites than totally irradicate them. Azamax is really just a concentrated neem oil and simply relying on them will almost insure a 8-10 week ongoing fight with the mites. My technique will irradicate them forever and the only way you will get another outbreak is by reintroducing them. U can use the azamax or whatever else as a control once you irradicate them. In a garden that size you should be doing routine sprays on your mothers and clones monthly before plants even enter your flowering room.
***its best to use sprays immediate upon mixing. I throw out and remaining sprays after 24 hours as they lose there potency.
***get yourself a decent 1 gallon pump sprayer from your local home depot, and be sure to use long sleeves and pants. Contrary to common belief, as strong as these miticides are they,are NOT MODAL. Meaning that they are not systemic and they do not travel within the plant. They only affect sprayed areas directly so your situation is ideal and they will not affect the flowers in any way. Avid is commonly used in the tomato industry on fruit headed directly to your local grocery story.
You have a "bigboy or expert garden" there, so only use appropriate or expert level measures...
thats a little dramatic chicken joe
I am going out today to pick up all of the recommended products. Thanks for all of the feedback and compliments! Ape, thanks for taking the time to give such detailed instruction, and ChickenJoe I get what you are saying but this garden will move at full speed ahead despite the mites and I will try to make our experiences different. When I bomb the room do I leave the plants in the room, or take them out? I plan to leave them in. Should I add Azamax to my nutrient solutiion to kill anything in the medium, or is that useless if I do all of the other treatments?
Also, it is getting to be time to feed these girls and I am still not 100% sure what ppm/ec they should receive. I mixed up a batch of nutes with A&B, Algen, Roots excel, Great white, Drip Clean, and Silica. The ppm is 700, EC is 1.4, ph 5.8. Should I add more base nutes or is that level good for these 12-18inch plants?
I'd like to transplant them into the 3gallon SP's within the next few days. Any reason why I shouldn't?
Your food is fine... a little hot for my taste. Less is more, even with nute hungry ladies like BD. Then again I feed, feed, water...
Why the drip clean?
Im diggin the chain link on the ceiling!