2x UC12xl13 and 12K watts.....Sealed

[Shane20]

Sounds like things are on the mend. Good to hear! They look good in the pics. How many days clicked? I know I can go back and and do the math but im being lazy. Lol! I have been cut cut cutting last 4 days now. 5 more ladies left to give haircuts too then getting ready to rock for round 3. :)

 

[St3ve]

Shots look good, they have filled in nicely.

 

[BudGoggles]

I would still trim them up a bit more give them top colas the juice they need to get fat

 

[GeneticFreak]

Dude hogan I'm crackin up right now! Your shit is bangin! I had a totally dif picture in my mind of what they must look like. Your doing great bro. As far as co2 goes do what you feel your babies can take. These strains vary so much imo as to what they will tolerate.
Shady sounds like a lot of work with all the valves n such lol! You sound like your dialed too. I'm going into flower now and I'm gonna try your swing techniques to see what they'll tolerate. My air pumps are in my room so co2 may be dificult for me. Unless it's ok to have them in the room? This run has taught me so much ina short period of time its incrredible.
I have a buddy that grows in a coco rockwool perlite mix and his theory is that they all have dif ph so the plants get a full spectrum of availible nutes. Although he grows great meds I say bs they get what you feed them because after 2 weeks all the ph will be the same as the water your putting in.
5.8 to 6.2 has been what works for me in the past but I will give ph swing a shot.

 

[phup]

Nice looking grow you have going on. I thought I would chime in about the algae growth you are experiencing in the flood table you are using to prepare your plants for transition. Because the water is so heavily exposed to light you are going to experience algae growth, you need to use a lid and cut holes out for your baskets, or maybe just some plastic over top to reduce the amount of light entering your table.

And yes, you can use H202 and Zone together. H202 acts only as a sanitizer/sterilizing agent, while Zone is specifically a fungicide - note the active ingredient is copper.

 

[crossouttheiis]

cch2o says that its alright to run co2 in the room with air pumps. If you look back at various logs a lot of people have run it in their rooms.

 

[hogan400]

shane20, that was about 15 days switched give or take... im at 23 tonight and still battling ph problems...

st3ve, thanks brotha, got home from a mini vacation and things look ok!?

bgoggles, ima do a final clean out and light pluck tomo. I just cant get a grip on my ph problem. was at 4.9 tonight.

phup, good looking out. i made a foam panel to cover them for my next veg round.
also gonna use h2o2 in my main rez for sterilization. see how it goes?

crossouttheiis i have my epi in the room and my main outside. i ran it both ways and it made no difference for me. IMO

Gf, I know it looks good but when things arent working right, it means less meds, and thats a problem since im taking all this risk for less reward ya know. according to cch2o pumps in the room are ok, pref method is out. i personally tried both this run for a week at a time and noticed zero difference. ph swing even occurs in soil, just not as drastic because most people use a quality mix high in buffers. outside i get swing depending on rain and food. 6.1-6.8.

some outdoor from season before last. greenhouse is 30x65 and 18ft high at the gable and 6 on the sides. these ladies were in 100gal smartys all organic. skunk1, cin-x, blue dreams (boring) when finished, all stalks were bigger than coke cans and 6-14ft tall:sun

 

[hogan400]

im going to go away from my de-i "portion" of my r.o, start raising my ph manually in topoff. may try straight tap? but something in the system isnt holding hands...

spoke w cc and we think it was my nute change day after a heavy pruning? also possible r.o/de-i cation exchange is binding up needed elements. now what?

anyone?? my tap is only 130-160ppm. but smells of chlorine pretty bad.

 

[St3ve]

Chlorine isnt bad for your plants or roots. I roll tap water and mine comes out at 200 so I would guess yours would be fine.

 

[ALLegal420]

I use tap as well and ours comes out about 170-180ppm (Hanna) and 7.4-7.6 PH. I say throw some tap water in to help raise the PH, I'm assuming your tap PH is 7+.... Ours has chlorine in it as well and no problems.

-ALLegal420

 

[hogan400]

St3ve, A420
Weird thing is my tap typically is 7.6-8.3 and >160ppm. Lately weve had no rain and the ph has fallen like crazy for some reason? 6.3, also tap ppm is 125 and thats a little lower than normal

Just did a full nute swap today see if it helps, drained it low as I could. My only conclusions are
1. I added my cal mag last. I added 2ml per gallon at once onto my topoff rez and it fed it all in overnight throwing my nutes out of balance? (after mixing nutes)

2. My de-i is throwing my chemistry off so much it will not stabilize?

3. I did a heavy defoliation, so my plants dropped a bunch of acid that caused fresh nutes to not stabilize?

4. I just mixed it wrong, but I am so systematic and keep tight logs. So, I mixed a/b wrong, and documented it wrong.....seems unlikely to me but Ive fucked up before!

Today was 4.7 after adding ph up, adding nutes, and adding cal mag last 4 days in hopes the calcium may help buffer ph too.... so I did a complete nute swap with a freshly balanced mix.

 

[Shady]

Hope things get back on track brah. I always add CalMag to RO first... Kinda like making the perfect tap water... :thinking

 

[crossouttheiis]

why do you add it first shady, in almost all nutrient instructions they say to add it last?

 

[Shady]

why do you add it first shady, in almost all nutrient instructions they say to add it last?

The way I see it, is that if I use tap water, then I've already got Ca and Mg plus other nutes and minerals in the tap water... So if I'm mixing nutes with RO instead of tap, why wouldn't I add back Ca and Mg at the exact PPM I'm targeting for my nutrient profile. I've used DM Gold in the Under Current, PBP in organic soil, GH3 Part in hydro and coco... All of which I always add CalMag first to my RO. I think my results over the last 3 yrs are well documented in all mediums and these diff base nutrients... :cool

 

[hogan400]

shady, Im def down w the perfect tap water theory. lol

I always added cal mag last in soil grows. On the cal mag label it says add first. Dutchmaster instructions say add all "additionals" first, then a/b components last. I added it first this whole uc grow.Then last on that nute swap out. But it wasnt added to the nute solution?? Only my top off. I did add my full dose, to be dripped in during the day.....maybe that was too much at the end, my plants looked like cal mag def and ph shocked.. but fine.....hahaha. Fuck it, we will know tomorrow if dutchmaster really does like it first!

If my ph balances ok, and ph rises over night, I will know without a doubt it was the cal mag "last" that created my issue. I have been using my r.o de-I the entire grow. And rule of thumb for my future is to never defoliate 48hrs before a nute swap!

 

[hogan400]

crosttii,
I hear exacly what you are saying. Lots of nutes do want it last. Its been a large debate on several forums for yrs!

I know from my reefkeeping experience that mad shit locks out calcium and magnesium. If i mix something wrong I will literally see it fall out of the water to the bottom in a mini snowstorm. In aquaria you always mix it first!! I realize its a completely different animal but to me it makes sense ya know.:headbang

 

[deacon1503]

The way I see it, is that if I use tap water, then I've already got Ca and Mg plus other nutes and minerals in the tap water... So if I'm mixing nutes with RO instead of tap, why wouldn't I add back Ca and Mg at the exact PPM I'm targeting for my nutrient profile. I've used DM Gold in the Under Current, PBP in organic soil, GH3 Part in hydro and coco... All of which I always add CalMag first to my RO. I think my results over the last 3 yrs are well documented in all mediums and these diff base nutrients... :cool

+1

I use RO and always add cal-mag first ever since JACK stated that was his practice during his UC runs.

Sometimes I think city water might be the best for rdwc. Its sterile thanks to the chloromines which is a bonus over possibly bio-active well water.

I don't understand why a no-fail fungicide (pythium specific) isn't on the market yet. The plethora of currently available products just aren't cutting it.

 

[crossouttheiis]

The way I see it, is that if I use tap water, then I've already got Ca and Mg plus other nutes and minerals in the tap water... So if I'm mixing nutes with RO instead of tap, why wouldn't I add back Ca and Mg at the exact PPM I'm targeting for my nutrient profile. I've used DM Gold in the Under Current, PBP in organic soil, GH3 Part in hydro and coco... All of which I always add CalMag first to my RO. I think my results over the last 3 yrs are well documented in all mediums and these diff base nutrients... :cool

I would agree all of your grows have turned out well. I have been on the mediocre side of things. Maybe I have just gotten lazy, but I am not running ro anymore. My tap water comes out at 6 ppm and at 6.5 - 7.5 depending on the time of year.


Hogan I hope your stuff turns around and you can figureout your problem. Your plants have been looking good.

 

[hogan400]

everybody, I really am at a loss. the plants are showing more signs of lockout, I know its early to tell, but I swapped nutes today at 360 with a ph of 5.8 all balanced. Here I am 12 hrs later with a ph of 5.1

What the fuck is going on? I called uc, I swapped nutes, I did a flush, I did individual gallon tests with my nutes. I added cal mag last, I added cal mag first...
Im only running d master a/b, cal mag and zone. How much fucking simpler can I be?
Things were amazing... here I am, losing more than a weeks growth at a critical stage... I took a breath and waited, and adjusted... Im getting fucking pissed.

 

[ALLegal420]

Your definitely keeping it simple and basic... Weird.

Whats your ppm doing in that 12 hour period? What's it doing in 24 hrs? When you add ph up does it raise your ppm (mine does about 10ppm, PH-down it's about 20-30ppm)? Maybe it's a bad batch of something your putting in? If it doesn't improve in the next couple days maybe flush and switch to a 1-part Ionic, straight tap, no filter, no I-uv. I know D-master is suppose to be very ph stable as well but just throwing that out there as an idea to get even more basic. Sorry I'm not of much help, I wish for the best, good luck!

-ALLegal420