707finishers first indoor grow, small tent.

  • Thread starter 707finisher
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

7,055
313
Well this surprised me:

my starting water was 6.6

the perlite didn't raise pH at all

and the vermiculite rose it to 6.7*

hardly my culprits❔❓❔

* it was some wet vermiculite left over from a water change in the clone tray, I suspect that's the only reason it went up even .1

The next set of cuttings this weekend is going in a mix of promix & perlite so I think the Pro mix will keep the pH lower, and hopefully more stable
 
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
Got my new kingbrite 125w in 3000k stuck it strait into flower tent instead of the viparspectra 300. The other plants are loving the led, the new seedlings go right under it I can see the stockier growth already, just need one more board for small tent lol
 
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
So as far as supplemental lighting these things already rock, I am interested to see what happens when flowering with them I need a couple more boards in 3000 or 3500k to really test it though. I’m gonna skip trying to get hlg or anyone else involved and slowly build my science lab lol
 
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
First purple mountain majesty turned male on me. I put it out side with the dosido maybe they will make babies.
PMM is purple train wreck-
humboldt seed companies super delicious blueberry muffin crossed with classic train wreck
It has a super wide growth habit, I already see it in the way the lower branches are growing out sideways instead of up
 
D04E3E4C 85A0 4736 946C 42AD2087CF9D
817B32A9 1A2C 448C B1B3 DB38A7963634
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
Jack Herer looks like it’s dying but still pumping out some FAT buds in my tiny grow, I keep trying to feed it but think I’m to shy of the food. Over fed it a couple times so I flushed it a couple times 100% probably totally stripped of nutes, have a 2-2-3 ml micro grow bloom mixture for it next time, suggested is 5-5-7 but all at once seems like a lot of fert at once, I am so bad with feeding during switch and flower. It’s easy to veg. WHT AM I FOING I feel like when I look at it 😂
 
0FFB9FBB AFA9 4064 9CC0 28724237E3CB
97253A9D B67A 406F 959F BBD3FB98367F
AD577980 2D37 42CB 9D87 72C2A5B4BC07
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
Babies. So the melon had started flowering at one point, it’s starting to grow much slower than the single growth point of the key lime and skittles. Next time I’m going to wait longer to put them in flower. Is it to late to put them back in veg or will it stress them out to much?
 
EA139274 139B 4630 B299 ADF2127EDE2C
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
I bought a 500ml syringe for watering. The 200 ml was becoming tedious with the 3 gallon smart pots, they can take half a gallon without dripping, that’s like 6 200ml syringes.

Usually it takes 8-12 200ml syringes for proper runoff now, so I figured the 500 would be faster and easier. It’s super cool, and super cumbersome lol, it’s nice if I had a runoff tray in the tents, but I remove everything one at a time from the tents when I water. So the 500ml syringe works better. But I need a watering can I think.
636E1B94 EC21 4B2E 9EE7 406614ED89F6

I have 3 kinds of water on hand. Filtered water, cal mag with 1ml grow and bloom, and 2-2-3ml micro grow bloom.
This is what I’m using and what’s in it.
DA939957 D22A 48E4 8C5A C00B860AC10D

7F7F9B0F 360A 4D75 A659 3ACC92647E90

i start my watering in the 3 gallon smart pots with 500ml water, then depending on the plant and what I’ve been giving it I add or mix with water what I think it needs. I pretty much do the same but with the 200ml with the smaller pots.

Long term a semi hydro ebb/flow type system would be ideal, hand watering so many plants is getting very time consuming!
 
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
I’m awful with paperwork. My better half handles that side of the business, I have not been recording my progress with the cloner water.
I added stuff, then when the ppm was higher than expected I looked closer. Half the water was missing hahahhahah.
So I added ph 5.8 water with a little bit of nutes to a total ppm of 360 in the 2gallon res. Left final ph at 5.8.
They drank almost a gallon of water with NO ROOTS over about a week. I’m sure some evaporation and whatnot, but this thing doesn’t leak....
The magic melon once again is the first to show roots, closely followed by the romie, I’ll take pics later tonight.
 
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
Advanced Aeroponic Cloning -- THE SECRETS!
by Michael Goldsmith January 10, 2017
In my article the The 3 Main Reasons Cloners Fail I cover those issues that cause cloning failure and help you gain predictable results. This article is about methods for producing the unbelievable clones you see PermaClone customers rep'ing on Social Media!
This article is about those methods that produce clones covered with roots from collars to cut...and with no loss of growth potential or yellowing above the collars. As always, I keep efficiency and scaled production in mind!
Water Temperature.
In cloning, warmer temperature speed cell divisions with diminishing returns at 87 °F (30 °C). However, this also speeds growth of bacteria and fungi. Before attempting higher temps, get sterile! Deep Water Culture (DWC) is different than aeroponics. With DWC the goal is the best temps for both oxygenation AND root growth. The convention is currently 65 - 68 °F. We believe this temperature recommendation may increase as techniques improve for effective water treatment.
Use an IR Thermometer or permanently placed temperature meter to quickly measure water temperatures. This is fast while preventing contamination of your cloner. We have found external IR readings to be within 0 – 2 degrees below the actual internal temperature and this range depends on the ambient room temperature. For example, if your ambient temperature is 75 °F and your cloner is at 85 °F (29 °C), you IR reading may be 83 °F (28 °C). Alternatively, if your ambient temperature is 75 °F and your cloner is at 77 °F, your IR reading will be relatively precise.
More Nodes & Shoot Apices
Every shoot apex produces auxins (rooting hormones). The more nodes left untrimmed from your cutting, the more endogenous (natural) auxins will be produced and sent to the basal (bottom) end of cuttings. The goal is 3 – 6 nodes left uncut. You may remove the fan leaves to avoid shading other clones but this is not necessary with aeroponics, DWC or bubbleponic cloning.
Removing Leaves
Cutting fan leaves has traditionally been intended to decrease transpiration, but that’s not a concern in aeroponics. We recommend trimming leaves to avoid shading other clones OR if your source plants are over-fed nutrients with dark green leaves. Below we discuss how to maintain mother plants for effective cloning. Leaves will help generate the carbohydrates needed for prolific rooting.
Lighting
The common suggestion has been minimal lighting. People often place a single T5 1 – 2 feet above the cloner canopy. This was because plugs couldn't hydrate the cuts enough to prevent wilting. This is not the case with hydroponics cloning. Over time we noticed shaded clones rooted slowest or failed. We ramped up lighting to 4 bulb T5 flourescent fixtures at 4” from our cloners’ canopies and achieved significant improvements in cloning rates, speed, AND root mass. This is particularly important when taking multiple clones per collar. We currently recommend 4 – 8 bulb T5 fixtures 4” from the canopy with mixed blue and red spectrum bulbs.
Cloner Nutrients
Adding 1/4 -1/2 strength bloom nutrients (200–600 ppm or EC: 0.4–1.2) to the cloner improves rooting both in speed and volume. We recommend nutrients intended for water culture. Avoid products which will inoculate or feed bacteria and fungi such as amino acids, protein hydrolysates, sugars, carbohydrates, or ‘teas’. Do not add beneficial bacteria or fungi. We suspect there may be a bacteria or fungi for aeroponics, but have yet to demonstrate strains of interest for long-term effectiveness.
Hormone products
Auxins improve rooting time and root volume. Gels and powders wash off and are time-consuming to apply. We have found efficiency in water soluble hormones such as Hormex Liquid Concentrate, Rhizopon AA, and KLN Rooting Concentrate. Each ensure adequate exposure times and eliminate the workload. We have worked mostly with Hormex Liquid Concentrate at 3 – 6 mL/gal. These product do not contain minerals. It is important you include a mineral nutrient in concert with hormone products for maximum performance. Do not use hormones without mineral nutrients, the results are NOT the same.
Pump Cycle Times
Cycle timing is primarily used for temperature management. Through extensive testing we have found faster rooting at warmer temperatures with diminishing returns above 87 °F (30 °C). We suggest 75 °F – 85 °F (24 - 29 °C)
Callus tissue
Callus or Callous is non-specific plant tissue that can become many different cell types depending on environmental factors or plant growth regulators. If you achieve extensive callusing, but roots lag, cycle your pump 15 min ON/45-60 min OFF for 24 – 48 hours or until 2 – 3 mm of roots form. Then set your cycle time to that which achieves the ideal temperatures. Over-callousing would indicate the need to lower hormone dosage for that particular strain.
If you’re using a DWC cloner and achieve extensive callous growth, change the water to mineral nutrient alone and eliminate the hormone product. Likely the hormone is pushing callous production and preventing root initiation from this non-differentiated tissue. In this situation, consider lowering your dosage to avoid the extra work of changing the water.
Mother Plants
Feed mother plants low strength bloom nutrients (TDS: 300 – 400 ppm; EC: 0.6 – 0.8 mS of base nutrients) while maintaining normal doses of Calcium, Magnesium, silicate, and kelp extracts. Aim for a total TDS of 500 – 600 ppm on the 500 scale (i.e. EC 1.0 – 1.2 mS) with additives. The goal is to minimize nitrogen to just above deficiency levels while maintaining all other nutrients and endogenous auxins (rooting) hormones. Lower nitrogen induces increased carbohydrate storage in the stem of mother plants. Silicon nutrients (such as silicic acid or potassium silicate) have been correlated with improved root mass in cuttings when applied to mother plants. There are points of antagonism, so use the intermediate recommended dosage of silicates.
Foliar applications of kelp-based products the day before taking cutting improves auxin levels within the plant (systemically) and improve rooting speed and volume. Auxins travel fast within plants, but do require several hours to be distributed systemically. We recommend applying 24 hours before taking cuttings.
SHARESHARE ON FACEBOOK
 
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
Also as I look at some of my favorite books,
EA6B53FD A350 484A B736 A568526CFD6A

I question my motives for the fastest possible rooting times for convenience. I simply cannot have 2 flower tents here at this point. I put the clone machine back in my nursery tent with some more seeds I planted. I just need to let them root. I read your supposed to wait till some good secondary roots form. I didn’t wait that long last time.
The moms are back in veg tent with the other seedlings, all of the first clones are in flower now except one melon. I never took pics lol. Tonight!!!

I have found a test location for my 3 tent test!!!
 
707finisher

707finisher

1,022
263
The dosido bug farms pretty much stopped doing anything the last few weeks. The 2 that were in flower.
B99CC5CC BF4A 4338 92E2 B67A7EEE1E41

The runt in the bucket bottom has caught up and is showing fem signs now, really light green probably the light.
F71E279E C60D 4BC4 870F 4B783D7FD211

The purple mountain majesty aka purple train wreck has not been affected by the lighting change, it has kept right on growing. Seems like a vigorous grower, probably going to make a mom out of one. I have a smaller ppm seedling unsexed and 4 just planted in dirt.
ECBEA7A4 E03B 4F6A 89E0 FDA1C285EFDC

this is a male
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom