jump
- 74
- 18
Everything I'm seeing says chlorophyll is definitely water soluble.
Cannabis has the same chlorophyll, as well as in other green plants.Water is how the plant transports it, and clearly soaking plant material in water in a water cure, turns the water green and bleaches out the plant, so something is happening.
Do you have another explaination brother Jump?
Where can I get 99% iso readily? Been using 91% with good results.
You can also find out that chlorophyll is not transported by water in the body of the plant, although its breakdown products are transported in solution.
The water is quite capable of transporting objects and materials completely insoluble in it, such as algae, plankton, fish, wooden and metal boats, etc.
Water flow can transport sand, stones, houses and trees, cars, not to mention the bodies of animals and humans.
The ability to be transported by water is not the solubility.
In my experience on the water curing, plant material does not discolor, and the color of drained solution was more yellowish, but not green. Measurement of ppm showed the presence of water-soluble components, decreasing with each change of water.
It is better initially to prevent contamination of chlorophyll than to spend forces to remove it.
Ive been looking everywhere locally for 99% iso, and found it finally at an electronics store, that supply's electromechanical supplys. Apparently its used often to clean connections and circuit borads.
Question though they had 99.95% pure anhydrous alcohol as well.....is there a difference. Cause it was cheaper?
I can't in good conscience post anything but an iso/acetone method.
Impurities in cannabis extracts can be broadly separated into 3 groups. Very good hash oil has been processed to remove all 3 types.
Polar impurities are water soluble and color your extraction dark green/black, primarily because of chlorophyll.
Nonpolar impurities aren't water soluble and color your extraction brown-red.
Volatile impurities are nonpolar too but we remove them differently. They color your extraction light red. Volatile impurities are the type most often left behind by preference, as a lot of people like their flavor and odor.
Very good hash oil is amber, sometimes with a bit of red. Follow this guide carefully and that's what you will end up with.
Initial extraction
You should look for 99% iso. It can be hard to find but with a few additional steps it's possible to safely remove the water from 70%+ iso. Those steps will be covered at the end.
The initial extraction is easy. Place your plant material in a jar along with an excess of iso. Shake. Let it sit for awhile. Shake again. Repeat until you get bored, strain, and then do it all over again with fresh iso. Repeat this two or three times and combine the iso. Throw away the plant matter.
At this point you have a fair amount of all three kinds of impurities in your product. It is easiest to evap the solvent and work with the gummy iso hash than it is to try and manipulate the extract while it's dissolved in iso. Evaporation can be sped along with a hot water bath. Iso fumes are relatively safe and not as flammable as a lot of people think (What the fuck was I thinking when I wrote that) Still, if you're using heat, do not evap in the same room as an open flame. Heat your water for the bath in another room and then place the evaporation dish in the hot water bath. Use proper ventillation. Use a pyrex container as an evaporation dish.
Wash out polar impurities
After evaporating scrape all of the goo into a ball and put it into a clean jar. Fill the jar most of the way with very hot water and put the lid on. The goo will melt. Shake the jar and watch as the water changes color. As the water colors you are removing polar impurities from your extract. Allow the water to cool to room temp and then place it in the refrigerator for a few hours so the extract can solidify. It will float on the surface of the water and most of it can be easily removed. Filter the water to get the rest. This step should be repeated at least three times to remove all of the polar impurities.
Boil off volatile impurities
The last time you wash your goo instead of allowing it to cool, remove the lid and place the jar into a pot of boiling water on the stove. Before you heat the water you should place a hand towel in the bottom of the pot to protect the bottom of the jar from heat. The water should come up 3/4 of the way of the jar, check that it does before you heat the water. A simmer is what you're looking for, not a rolling boil. Because there is no solvent left in the goo this is safe. By heating your extraction to boiling you are driving off volatile impurities. This does not degrade the extract since the boiling point of cannabinoids is much higher than the boiling point of water.
After 20 minutes of simmering turn off the heat and let the jar come back to room temp in the pot. Remove the jar and put it in the fridge to solidify the goo and remove it like you did earlier.
At this stage you still have goo, not oil. This is because of the nonpolar impurities like wax that are still present in your extraction. We remove these last in order to make handling easier.
Precipitate nonpolar impurities
To remove waxes you will need a small amount of acetone. Dissolve the goo in a few hundred ml of acetone in a jar. Prepare a saline bath by saturating water with salt and adding ice. Place the jar of acetone with your extract dissolved in it in the bath, and put the whole works in the freezer over night. The cold temperature will precipitate waxes and solidified plant fats as white flakes. The next morning filter your extract through a coffee filter discarding the contents of the filter. Evap the acetone. You will end up with a thick amber-red oil.
If nothing precipitates you used too much acetone. Evap some and start again. Exact amounts depend entirely on the weight and wax content of the starting cannabis, sorry.
This step can be repeated if you reduce the volume of acetone first through evaporation and then return it to the freezer.
Optional decoloration
Some impurities just don't fall into a neat category, or they aren't as easily removed.
To remove the last of the reddish coloration thin the oil with a bit of iso or acetone and add activated charcoal. Let stand over night. If necessary thin it out even more so that you can filter the activated charcoal out. It's hard to get it all. At this stage I thin the oil quite a bit and run it through a buchner with 5um filter paper using a vacuum pump. You may have to filter repeatedly to get the last of the activated charcoal out with a coffee filter.
Discard everything on the filter paper and evap for the last time.
After evaporating the solvent you are left with a very potent amber oil that is ready for use. It can be dissolved in propylene glycol or whatever for use in an e-cig or just smoked.
If you're going to atomize the extract, before you start this guide decarboxylate the weed in a low oven for an hour or so.
Salting out iso
70% or 91% iso can be made to work better with table salt.
Water can be removed from isopropanol with the addition of table salt or pickling salt (which dissolves more readily and doesn't contain iodine). Place the iso in a jar and warm the iso in a hot water bath. It doesn't need to be boiling hot, just warm. Add salt until it stops dissolving and the barest amount can be seen on the bottom of the jar. Put a lid on the jar and shake gently. Remove the lid in order to vent the iso fumes and prevent excess pressure from building up. Repeat until you can see the liquids start to shimmer and separate. If they don't separate add more salt and repeat.
You have to look closely to see the interface between the two layers as both liquids will be pretty clear. Nearly pure iso can be poured carefully or siphoned off of the top since it is less dense than the saturated saline solution.
Other shit
For chrissakes vent whatever room you evap in or do it outside. Consider distilling if you've never managed to light iso fumes on fire up to this point and are willing to buy glass. Read this guide twice. Please don't fucking die or horribly burn yourself. Don't do this shit stoned. Don't heat a goddam bit of flammable solvent in the oven or on the stove top, even over a double boiler you animals. I shouldn't even have to ask. Please?
filtering through pharmaceutical grade charcoal unbleached filters, normally using a long neck wine bottle, but as i said earlier I was lazy, I get different colours from different strains, and also depending on many variables including tightness of filter, amount of charcoal etc. What is this Fritted-glass filter flask you speak of?
where did you pick up the filters?
alright, so i read and re read and read again, i think i got it down..now where to get hexane??
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?