Bag Seed Hunting & The Lst Adventure

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rmoltis

rmoltis

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What size pots are those ladies in? How big/tall are they when you flip roughly? Just curious

They are mostly all in different pot sizes

  1. The beast is in a "16w×"10t pot (10 gallons)
  2. The beast cllone is in a "16w×"5t pot (5 gallons)
  3. #3 in the micro is in a standard 3 gallon pot
  4. Purple haze auto 1 gallon
  5. Mozzarella 1 gallon
  6. Amnesia lemon 1 gallon
  • The beast flowered at "10
  • The beast cllone flowered while it was tied flat to its pot top
  • #3 was flowered at "5
  • Purple haze auto flowered at about "10
  • Mozzarella flowered at about "10
  • Amnesia lemon flowered at about "10
I keep track of a ton of info on my setup in this thread. If you need to find anything almost every question can be answered.

It is just getting kinda deep page wize.
Lots of photos too. I get camera happy :)
 
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rmoltis

rmoltis

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Todays beast shots.
Look what the long flowering times can do for you.
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rmoltis

rmoltis

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I decided to stop using my 1st mh bulb. It's seen over a year of use and that's what I estimated it's effective lifetime was.

I read this info on longevity of the bulb. From the manufacturers specs.
Look specifically at the starting process of hid lamps.
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How it says the electrodes have a small amount that gets vaporized every time it starts.

Well I compared the electrodes of the new mh bulb to the old one.

The new one had electrodes of a good length.

But the old mh bulb electrodes were short and almost down to the base .
This is where you find the electrodes.

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And here is a closeup of each side.
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So if you want to identify the life left on your bulbs.

Checking those electrodes is kind of like checking the electrodes on your vehicles spark plugs.


Sorry I don't have pics of the new one.
It was installed before I thought to take pics. Now it's installed and the tent is closed. I doubt I'll get a picture.

But if any of you all get new bulbs compare the electrodes to the old ones. You'll see what I'm talking about.
 
Bearfamfarm

Bearfamfarm

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Yes, I believe the high heat low rh% is one of the key reason my gals get so trichome covered.

The transpiration thread covers things like. How the plant develops extra trichome stalks to slow down air movement around the leaves to reduce transpiration by increasing the boundary layer around them.
As a result I have a ridiculous amount of trichome stalks.

I think this is why Australian cannabis can become so potent.

If you can keep your ladies happy in your environment you will have a quality product down the line.

I think I also may have been accidentally proving your point on this low rh theory @rmoltis I'm running the same strain side by side 5 weeks apart in same tent. Both have 1k hps each. Same nutes and mycos. One is the mom. The other is the table of her clones so same genetics. Only thing I changed was the vpd. Not having a Huey or dehuey I was keeping the rh in the tent around 60%manually by opening the tent and closing it when needed. Well when I added the table 5 weeks later I started leaving the tent door open during lights on and just let it stay at this desert rh of 25% right now. Temps always good but rh low. Now my main fan leaves on the table are even frosting up. Seeing way more frost on this run and on leaves that don't normally have frost. I think your on to something here. I'll take some side by side pics when lights come on.
 
Bearfamfarm

Bearfamfarm

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Ok here are some side by side. The mom is flushing but you can see never had frost on he main upper or lower fans Just the sugar leaves and buds. But the veg table is taking off earlier and frostier. Getting me kinda excited lol. Maybe we are doing extreme stress training. Mess up 9/10 things and get super frost on my end? Lmao
 
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rmoltis

rmoltis

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I think I also may have been accidentally proving your point on this low rh theory @rmoltis I'm running the same strain side by side 5 weeks apart in same tent. Both have 1k hps each. Same nutes and mycos. One is the mom. The other is the table of her clones so same genetics. Only thing I changed was the vpd. Not having a Huey or dehuey I was keeping the rh in the tent around 60%manually by opening the tent and closing it when needed. Well when I added the table 5 weeks later I started leaving the tent door open during lights on and just let it stay at this desert rh of 25% right now. Temps always good but rh low. Now my main fan leaves on the table are even frosting up. Seeing way more frost on this run and on leaves that don't normally have frost. I think your on to something here. I'll take some side by side pics when lights come on.

I have been connecting the dots on my hot dry environment and I'd like to quote some more great info from this transpiration thread
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/understanding-transpiration.82240/


  • Temperature greatly influences the magnitude of the driving force for water movement out of a plant rather than having a direct effect on stomata. As temperature increases, the water holding capacity of that air increases sharply. The amount of water does not change, just the ability of that air to hold water. Because warmer air can hold more water, its relative humidity is less than the same air sample at a lower temperature, or it is ‘drier air’. Because cooler air holds less water, its relative humidity increases or it is ‘moister air’. Therefore, warmer air will increase the driving force for transpiration and cooler air will decrease the driving force for transpiration.

  • The source of water for transpiration out of the plant comes from the soil. Plants with adequate soil moisture will normally transpire at high rates because the soil provides the water to movethrough the plant. Plants cannot continue to transpire without wilting if the soil is very dry because the water in the xylem that moves out through theleaves is not being replaced by the soil water. This condition causes the leaf tolose turgor or firmness, and the stomatato close. If this loss of turgor continues throughout the plant, the plant will wilt.

  • The boundary layer is a thin layer of still air hugging the surface of the leaf. This layer of air is not moving. For transpiration to occur, water vapor leaving the stomata must diffuse through this motionless layer to reach the atmosphere where the water vapor will be removed by moving air. The larger the boundary layer, the slower the rates of transpiration.

  • Plants can alter the size of their boundary layers around leaves through a variety of structural features. Leaves that possess many hairs or pubescence will have larger boundary layers; the hairs serve as mini-wind breaks by increasing the layer of still air around the leaf surface and slowing transpiration rates. Some plants possess stomata that are sunken into the leaf surface, dramatically increasing the boundary layer and slowing transpiration. Boundary layers increase as leaf size increases, reducing rates of transpiration as well. For example, plants from desert climates often have small leaves so that their small boundary layers will help cool the leaf with higher rates of transpiration.

  • Wind can alter rates of transpiration by removing the boundary layer, that still layer of water vapor hugging the surface of leaves. Wind increases the movement of water from the leaf surface when it reduces the boundary layer, because the path for water to reach the atmosphere is shorter.




These are all good points to touch on :)
 
jipp

jipp

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Plants cannot continue to transpire without wilting if the soil is very dry because the water in the xylem that moves out through the leaves is not being replaced by the soil water.


first time i read this i did understand much of a plant anatomy. heh.. i was quite pleased with my self just now when i read xylem and i was like hah i know what the fuck that is.. fear me green thumbs !

bowl up.

chris.
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

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Plants cannot continue to transpire without wilting if the soil is very dry because the water in the xylem that moves out through the leaves is not being replaced by the soil water.


first time i read this i did understand much of a plant anatomy. heh.. i was quite pleased with my self just now when i read xylem and i was like hah i know what the fuck that is.. fear me green thumbs !

bowl up.

chris.

Hey learning is just understanding 1 new thing at a time.
When you are all done it all just kind of snaps together.


The beast cllone with a giant calyx on top.
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rmoltis

rmoltis

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The mozzarella is marching on.

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Bottoms
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I'm thinking this gal is done pushing.
Her top is getting a little amber and purple colored. I'm not sure she will make it much further even though her trichomes still have a good amount clear.

for an 8.5 week strain I pushed her to day 73 as of today. So whenever she comes down I can guarantee she is deep into her harvest window.

The hard part will be finding a good place to hang dry. The tents are all occupied. And I need smell control.
 
incogneato

incogneato

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The mozzarella is marching on.

View attachment 683377


Bottoms
View attachment 683378 View attachment 683379

I'm thinking this gal is done pushing.
Her top is getting a little amber and purple colored. I'm not sure she will make it much further even though her trichomes still have a good amount clear.

for an 8.5 week strain I pushed her to day 73 as of today. So whenever she comes down I can guarantee she is deep into her harvest window.

The hard part will be finding a good place to hang dry. The tents are all occupied. And I need smell control.
Im looking ahead to the same problem. With so many strains going at once I'll have some coming down before others.
 
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