PizzaBob
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Follow the instructions on the 3-2-1. It’s actually not exactly 3-2-1 but close so follow to the T and water down to target EC. After that add in what Bill says based on the new net quantity - Mr Fulvic, MSA (grow genius is one of if not best) and kelp (Ferti-Organic is best but smallest 50 lbs - Kelp it Real is repackaged Ferti in smaller quantities). Now your base nutes are in correct proportions and the additives are correct on the ml/gallons.Thank you so much for this! Is there a per gallon hydroponic recipe for this ? I am a small home grower, but am currently partnering in a 2000 sf hydro facility. I just want to learn!
Now u have to let sit for a while or can use right awayI love fertilizer. I work with big grows down to friends that have a single 400w light. I recommend the same thing to each and every one of them. It is used start to finish, so there's no following confusing feed schedules. A buddy of mine started calling this "The Recipe" because it is cheap, simple and gives some amazing quality flower.
It consists of:
1) Silica- I always recommend soluble silica like PowerSi or Grow Genius. If you are in a pinch, you can use potassium silicate, but you have to keep an eye on the pH.
2) Jacks Classic Hydro, Calcium Nitrate and epsom salt- This is your base fertilizer. It is 3 grams Jack's, 2 grams calcium nitrate, 1 gram epsom salt per gallon
3) Fulvic Acid- This helps prevent pH problems and plant stress and gives organic taste and smell. There's lots of watered down additives out there, but I recommend Mr. Fulvic because it is a concentrate and has fulvic, amino and organic acids.
The quality and yields are phenomenal. Depending on what quantities you buy, it can be $0.06-$0.10/gallon.
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As long as it is dissolved, you can use it right away.Now u have to let sit for a while or can use right away
Your mixing order is correct.Hey Bill. You're a pimp. I have so many questions.
Do you add silicate first? Power Si @2ml/g?
So silicate first?
Then Jacks A
Then Epson
Then cal nit
Then seaweed?
Then Mr Fulvic
Also wondering if you noticed any nutritional differences switching from Pro Mix to coco brix. Interesting how H3AD did the 6/9 with lowering K to help other areas. Have you noticed any need to alter this 3.6/2.4/1.1 for coco. Would this (3/2/1) work with coco, dwc, Rockwool, promix by merely changing the EC? Could a purely Hydro recirculating systems like RDWC, NFT, aero systems thrive as well? Would adjustments need to be made (ie less cal nit or Epson or both)
I have a friend who spend a lot on a RDWC system, and she's trying to figure it out. They're running Current Cultures line up and I know there's a way to do this easier and cheaper. I'd really like to get them off this ever changing schedule as it's way over her head. She has pretty decent Denver water, de-chlorinated, ~180-200 ppms. Cmh and LED, sealed co2. What would good target numbers look like for that type of system? Grams/gallon, elemental PPM differences.
How would the same sealed room differ in nutrient strength and profile (main base nutrients, not bio stims) if it was DTW coco as opposed to RDWC. Room kept in VPD, 1.2kpa-1.4kpa in flower. 82-85° F. Co2 on tap.
Oh yeah, AGT 50? I thought I saw you recommended this in another post. Is it basically the same thing as Mr fulvic? Or what are your thoughts as to one vs the other?
Plant Prod is a good company. Just account for the lower nitrates/higher Ca when running the numbers.Quick question for @BillFarthing .. What's your thoughts on PureCal since Cal Prime seems to be hard to get these days? I'd like to have something in the arsenal for strains that need a little more Ca. Thanks!
@Twisted PistilHey Bill. You're a pimp. I have so many questions.
Do you add silicate first? Power Si @2ml/g?
So silicate first?
Then Jacks A
Then Epson
Then cal nit
Then seaweed?
Then Mr Fulvex
Also wondering if you noticed any nutritional differences switching from Pro Mix to coco brix. Interesting how H3AD did the 6/9 with lowering K to help other areas. Have you noticed any need to alter this 3.6/2.4/1.1 for coco. Would this (3/2/1) work with coco, dwc, Rockwool, promix by merely changing the EC? Could a purely Hydro recirculating systems like RDWC, NFT, aero systems thrive as well? Would adjustments need to be made (ie less cal nit or Epson or both)
I have a friend who spend a lot on a RDWC system, and she's trying to figure it out. They're running Current Cultures line up and I know there's a way to do this easier and cheaper. I'd really like to get them off this ever changing schedule as it's way over her head. She has pretty decent Denver water, de-chlorinated, ~180-200 ppms. Cmh and LED, sealed co2. What would good target numbers look like for that type of system? Grams/gallon, elemental PPM differences.
How would the same sealed room differ in nutrient strength and profile (main base nutrients, not bio stims) if it was DTW coco as opposed to RDWC. Room kept in VPD, 1.2kpa-1.4kpa in flower. 82-85° F. Co2 on tap.
Oh yeah, AGT 50? I thought I saw you recommended this in another post. Is it basically the same thing as Mr fulvic? Or what are your thoughts as to one vs the other?
Definitely sounds like root rot. Increase your H2O2 dosage or use something like Root Cleaner, UC Roots or Athena Cleanse.After the second feeding I started noticing a rotten egg/sulfur/metallic smell coming from my run off and the plants that were effected had some pretty bad clawing of the leaves. I did some research and thought I might have some root rot. So, I flushed everything with peroxide. Hit them with some re-charge the next day, and peroxide again the third day. On the third day none of the run off smelled and everything seemed ok.
I was flushing them out with 1/4 cup peroxide per gallon and I've been adding 2 tsps per half gallon of water every other feed since. Should I just go back to the 1/4 cup per gallon and include it with every feeding?Definitely sounds like root rot. Increase your H2O2 dosage or use something like Root Cleaner, UC Roots or Athena Cleanse.
So I did actually pull the plant that seems to be showing the most signs still, from her pot. I increased the ratio in the medium to about 50/50 coco/perlite and repotted her. The roots didn't look yellow/brown rotten, or slimy. I've also noticed this plant not drooping as much after watering. But she's very pale in color.If you're able, pull the plant that smells out of the pot and have a look at the roots. If you're in veg, i would prune (slice off) the roots/coco on all sides and replant into some fresh media. I do this all the time with rootbound mother plants and they love me for it. Obviously if you're flowering, I do not suggest this. haha
If you have the full Jack's lineup, use it as their feed chart recommends.Ok so I've been following Jack's grow chart and think I'm coming up on week 5 of flower.
I used Jacks Bloom for the first 2 full weeks and then switched back to A & B for the last couple of weeks.
I'm really surprised I'm not using Bloom at any other time during flower?
So now coming up on week 5, I should switch to Jacks Finish right? I want to run that for a full 3 weeks?
Should I be or can I supplement calcium in any way?
If you have the full Jack's lineup, use it as their feed chart recommends.
The method that I posted is a way to get a fantastic output with the least amount of inputs. Plant calcium needs are greatest pre-transition and transition and are lower in flower.
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