Ballin' On a Budget- THE RECIPE

[PizzaBob]

Thank you so much for this! Is there a per gallon hydroponic recipe for this ? I am a small home grower, but am currently partnering in a 2000 sf hydro facility. I just want to learn!

Follow the instructions on the 3-2-1. It’s actually not exactly 3-2-1 but close so follow to the T and water down to target EC. After that add in what Bill says based on the new net quantity - Mr Fulvic, MSA (grow genius is one of if not best) and kelp (Ferti-Organic is best but smallest 50 lbs - Kelp it Real is repackaged Ferti in smaller quantities). Now your base nutes are in correct proportions and the additives are correct on the ml/gallons.

 

[Slickrick82]

I love fertilizer. I work with big grows down to friends that have a single 400w light. I recommend the same thing to each and every one of them. It is used start to finish, so there's no following confusing feed schedules. A buddy of mine started calling this "The Recipe" because it is cheap, simple and gives some amazing quality flower.

It consists of:
1) Silica- I always recommend soluble silica like PowerSi or Grow Genius. If you are in a pinch, you can use potassium silicate, but you have to keep an eye on the pH.
2) Jacks Classic Hydro, Calcium Nitrate and epsom salt- This is your base fertilizer. It is 3 grams Jack's, 2 grams calcium nitrate, 1 gram epsom salt per gallon
3) Fulvic Acid- This helps prevent pH problems and plant stress and gives organic taste and smell. There's lots of watered down additives out there, but I recommend Mr. Fulvic because it is a concentrate and has fulvic, amino and organic acids.

The quality and yields are phenomenal. Depending on what quantities you buy, it can be $0.06-$0.10/gallon.

View attachment 1129079

Now u have to let sit for a while or can use right away

 

[BillFarthing]

Now u have to let sit for a while or can use right away

As long as it is dissolved, you can use it right away.

 

[TwistedPistil]

Hey Bill. You're a pimp. I have so many questions.
Do you add silicate first? Power Si @2ml/g?

So silicate first?
Then Jacks A
Then Epson
Then cal nit
Then seaweed?
Then Mr Fulvex

Also wondering if you noticed any nutritional differences switching from Pro Mix to coco brix. Interesting how H3AD did the 6/9 with lowering K to help other areas. Have you noticed any need to alter this 3.6/2.4/1.1 for coco. Would this (3/2/1) work with coco, dwc, Rockwool, promix by merely changing the EC? Could a purely Hydro recirculating systems like RDWC, NFT, aero systems thrive as well? Would adjustments need to be made (ie less cal nit or Epson or both)

I have a friend who spend a lot on a RDWC system, and she's trying to figure it out. They're running Current Cultures line up and I know there's a way to do this easier and cheaper. I'd really like to get them off this ever changing schedule as it's way over her head. She has pretty decent Denver water, de-chlorinated, ~180-200 ppms. Cmh and LED, sealed co2. What would good target numbers look like for that type of system? Grams/gallon, elemental PPM differences.

How would the same sealed room differ in nutrient strength and profile (main base nutrients, not bio stims) if it was DTW coco as opposed to RDWC. Room kept in VPD, 1.2kpa-1.4kpa in flower. 82-85° F. Co2 on tap.

Oh yeah, AGT 50? I thought I saw you recommended this in another post. Is it basically the same thing as Mr fulvic? Or what are your thoughts as to one vs the other?

 

[BillFarthing]

Hey Bill. You're a pimp. I have so many questions.
Do you add silicate first? Power Si @2ml/g?

So silicate first?
Then Jacks A
Then Epson
Then cal nit
Then seaweed?
Then Mr Fulvic

Also wondering if you noticed any nutritional differences switching from Pro Mix to coco brix. Interesting how H3AD did the 6/9 with lowering K to help other areas. Have you noticed any need to alter this 3.6/2.4/1.1 for coco. Would this (3/2/1) work with coco, dwc, Rockwool, promix by merely changing the EC? Could a purely Hydro recirculating systems like RDWC, NFT, aero systems thrive as well? Would adjustments need to be made (ie less cal nit or Epson or both)

I have a friend who spend a lot on a RDWC system, and she's trying to figure it out. They're running Current Cultures line up and I know there's a way to do this easier and cheaper. I'd really like to get them off this ever changing schedule as it's way over her head. She has pretty decent Denver water, de-chlorinated, ~180-200 ppms. Cmh and LED, sealed co2. What would good target numbers look like for that type of system? Grams/gallon, elemental PPM differences.

How would the same sealed room differ in nutrient strength and profile (main base nutrients, not bio stims) if it was DTW coco as opposed to RDWC. Room kept in VPD, 1.2kpa-1.4kpa in flower. 82-85° F. Co2 on tap.

Oh yeah, AGT 50? I thought I saw you recommended this in another post. Is it basically the same thing as Mr fulvic? Or what are your thoughts as to one vs the other?

Your mixing order is correct.

Pro Mix is pre-buffered and ready to go. You may have to mix 2.4 g/gallon cal-nit/.H2O when you expand your coco blocks to buffer the sodium/calcium.

Follow the feed chart with CCH2O Cultured Solutions fertilizer. They did the work for you.

RDWC is going to be lower nutes than DTW coco. If the pH in the root zone goes up, they are hungry. if the pH goes down, they are thirsty.

Mr. Fulvic, Mr. Humic (In CA and OR) and AGT-50 are all the same liquid in the bottle. Mr. Fulvic is home and garden retail. AGT-50 is from the manufacturer and sells B2B wholesale. On the Mr. Fulvic website, use "GrowBig20" for 20% off your order and free shipping.

 

[TwistedPistil]

Thank you sir. I appreciate the direction. Will use the culture current nutes that came with her system. It's 240 gallons for the reservoir for the set up, so when those nutes run out she's gonna be crying when it comes time to ordering 5 gallons and 2.5 gallons of all those nutes. Idk how much current culture nutes run, but with all the info out today it seems silly to not acknowledge the viability and cost effectiveness of dry nutes, so I'm trying to plan on it.

Thanks for all the info you provide to the community. Kudos.

 

[TwistedPistil]

Thank you sir. I appreciate the direction. Will use the culture current nutes that came with her system. It's 240 gallons for the reservoir for the set up, so when those nutes run out she's gonna be crying when it comes time to ordering 5 gallons and 2.5 gallons of all those nutes. Idk how much current culture nutes run, but with all the info out today it seems silly to not acknowledge the viability and cost effectiveness of dry nutes, so I'm trying to plan on it.

Thanks for all the info you provide to the community. Kudos

 

[jguit]

Quick question for @BillFarthing .. What's your thoughts on PureCal since Cal Prime seems to be hard to get these days? I'd like to have something in the arsenal for strains that need a little more Ca. Thanks!

 

[BillFarthing]

Quick question for @BillFarthing .. What's your thoughts on PureCal since Cal Prime seems to be hard to get these days? I'd like to have something in the arsenal for strains that need a little more Ca. Thanks!

Plant Prod is a good company. Just account for the lower nitrates/higher Ca when running the numbers.

 

[jguit]

Excellent, thanks.. So if i was using regular jacks at the 321 ratio and wanted to bump my Ca a bit, id run something like 3 / 2.3 / 1? Does that sound close?

 

[Jasper.Palmer]

Hey Bill. You're a pimp. I have so many questions.
Do you add silicate first? Power Si @2ml/g?

So silicate first?
Then Jacks A
Then Epson
Then cal nit
Then seaweed?
Then Mr Fulvex

Also wondering if you noticed any nutritional differences switching from Pro Mix to coco brix. Interesting how H3AD did the 6/9 with lowering K to help other areas. Have you noticed any need to alter this 3.6/2.4/1.1 for coco. Would this (3/2/1) work with coco, dwc, Rockwool, promix by merely changing the EC? Could a purely Hydro recirculating systems like RDWC, NFT, aero systems thrive as well? Would adjustments need to be made (ie less cal nit or Epson or both)

I have a friend who spend a lot on a RDWC system, and she's trying to figure it out. They're running Current Cultures line up and I know there's a way to do this easier and cheaper. I'd really like to get them off this ever changing schedule as it's way over her head. She has pretty decent Denver water, de-chlorinated, ~180-200 ppms. Cmh and LED, sealed co2. What would good target numbers look like for that type of system? Grams/gallon, elemental PPM differences.

How would the same sealed room differ in nutrient strength and profile (main base nutrients, not bio stims) if it was DTW coco as opposed to RDWC. Room kept in VPD, 1.2kpa-1.4kpa in flower. 82-85° F. Co2 on tap.

Oh yeah, AGT 50? I thought I saw you recommended this in another post. Is it basically the same thing as Mr fulvic? Or what are your thoughts as to one vs the other?

@Twisted Pistil
Where are you getting 2ml/gal for Power Si? The instructions on the bottle say .5ml/gal.
Just making sure that you don't fry your plants! (or that I'm not using too little Power Si for mine...)

 

[TwistedPistil]

@Twisted Pistil
Where are you getting 2ml/gal for Power Si? The instructions on the bottle say .5ml/gal.
Just making sure that you don't fry your plants! (or that I'm not using too little Power Si for mine...)

Definitely .5. Good catch.

 

[Yojimbosatoshi]

Hey, everyone. Just found this thread and I've given it a pretty thorough read through. First, you guys are awesome. This is the most informative and well put together discussion on Jack's I've been able to find. Hopefully someone here will be able to help me clear up my issue.

70/30 coco/perlite, 20/4 light cycle. 650 actual W LED about 60 percent strength. 30 inches above the canopy. I started feeding my plants Jack's at 1100 EC 6.15 pH to 20 percent run off daily. VPD between .89-1.1.

After the second feeding I started noticing a rotten egg/sulfur/metallic smell coming from my run off and the plants that were effected had some pretty bad clawing of the leaves. I did some research and thought I might have some root rot. So, I flushed everything with peroxide. Hit them with some re-charge the next day, and peroxide again the third day. On the third day none of the run off smelled and everything seemed ok.

Then, I let them dry out for 4 days and began feeding again at 750 EC. Within two days, I began smelling the same odor from the runoff.

I've got three different strains going right now and I've given them all Jack's. I've only had the smell issue with the older of my plants. The only difference, and the only thing I can think is causing the smell, is that I put some steel garden spikes in a few of the pots when the plants I'm having the issues with were young. I did not do this in any of the plants that are fine. Could the nutrients be leeching something from those spikes I left in that is causing my problems?

Thank you anyone who might chime in on this. I would greatly appreciate your input.

 

[BillFarthing]

After the second feeding I started noticing a rotten egg/sulfur/metallic smell coming from my run off and the plants that were effected had some pretty bad clawing of the leaves. I did some research and thought I might have some root rot. So, I flushed everything with peroxide. Hit them with some re-charge the next day, and peroxide again the third day. On the third day none of the run off smelled and everything seemed ok.

Definitely sounds like root rot. Increase your H2O2 dosage or use something like Root Cleaner, UC Roots or Athena Cleanse.

 

[jguit]

If you're able, pull the plant that smells out of the pot and have a look at the roots. If you're in veg, i would prune (slice off) the roots/coco on all sides and replant into some fresh media. I do this all the time with rootbound mother plants and they love me for it. Obviously if you're flowering, I do not suggest this. haha

 

[Yojimbosatoshi]

Definitely sounds like root rot. Increase your H2O2 dosage or use something like Root Cleaner, UC Roots or Athena Cleanse.

I was flushing them out with 1/4 cup peroxide per gallon and I've been adding 2 tsps per half gallon of water every other feed since. Should I just go back to the 1/4 cup per gallon and include it with every feeding?

 

[Yojimbosatoshi]

If you're able, pull the plant that smells out of the pot and have a look at the roots. If you're in veg, i would prune (slice off) the roots/coco on all sides and replant into some fresh media. I do this all the time with rootbound mother plants and they love me for it. Obviously if you're flowering, I do not suggest this. haha

So I did actually pull the plant that seems to be showing the most signs still, from her pot. I increased the ratio in the medium to about 50/50 coco/perlite and repotted her. The roots didn't look yellow/brown rotten, or slimy. I've also noticed this plant not drooping as much after watering. But she's very pale in color.

 

[Thegreywizard]

Ok so I've been following Jack's grow chart and think I'm coming up on week 5 of flower.

I used Jacks Bloom for the first 2 full weeks and then switched back to A & B for the last couple of weeks.

I'm really surprised I'm not using Bloom at any other time during flower?

So now coming up on week 5, I should switch to Jacks Finish right? I want to run that for a full 3 weeks?

Should I be or can I supplement calcium in any way?

 

[BillFarthing]

Ok so I've been following Jack's grow chart and think I'm coming up on week 5 of flower.

I used Jacks Bloom for the first 2 full weeks and then switched back to A & B for the last couple of weeks.

I'm really surprised I'm not using Bloom at any other time during flower?

So now coming up on week 5, I should switch to Jacks Finish right? I want to run that for a full 3 weeks?

Should I be or can I supplement calcium in any way?

If you have the full Jack's lineup, use it as their feed chart recommends.

The method that I posted is a way to get a fantastic output with the least amount of inputs. Plant calcium needs are greatest pre-transition and transition and are lower in flower.

 

[Thegreywizard]

If you have the full Jack's lineup, use it as their feed chart recommends.

The method that I posted is a way to get a fantastic output with the least amount of inputs. Plant calcium needs are greatest pre-transition and transition and are lower in flower.

Ok thanks for that info!

It really wouldn't be beneficial at all to run calcium at all?

I always thought the calcium requirements were higher in flower because of the heavy bud production.

But you're the expert, so I'll follow your advice if you really don't think it's worth it.

The cost is negligible to me, I just want the best results with the heaviest weight possible.

Thanks!