Been having a few problems

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

DazedNconfused78 said:
So my light will not produce the trichomes its suppose to? Can i buy something to supplement that light?

According to the spectral analysis pic that is with your light, the waveform drops down to 400nm and the amount of light there is minimal at best. You want a light that has 380nm diodes, they are UV-B. And so from the waveform in your pic, no the light definitely does not have UV-B. Sorry about that friend.

But there is good news. You can go to that popular online store that shares its name with a tropical river. And look for UV LED light bars make sure theyre uvB........ you know what, hold on buddy, ill find a couple options for you and post the links here in a few minutes

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

I like your tent by the way.

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

Ok im back. First thing, i was looking at your plants again and i think im seeing a magnesium deficiency creeping up but its hard to tell in the pic. Magnesium deficiency makes the very tips turn yellow and then the yellow moves along the serrated edges. Then when it starts to get bad you get interveinal chlorosis and it starts turning bright yellow between the veins. If this is magnesium deficiency theres 2 things you should do.

1. Check your pH. I keep mine around 5.8. Magnesium doesnt really get absorbed below 6.0pH. Dont forget, pH rises as it evaporates so if you flood with 5.8pH it could rise to 6.5-7

2. If the pH is fine, then its a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salts. No fancy smells or colors, just pure magnesium sulphate (Mg²SO4). Start by adding 1 gram per gallon..

Here is a simple way to add uvb, its basic but you can order them in differe t sizes and get what you need. They are the right wavelength for trichome production.....

TheBadChoice · May 13, 2021

One drop said:
Ok I'm sure one of the farmers that use that method will chime in , I'm hand water Coco perlite soil compost mix grower @Aqua Man @Dirtbag ...... The caped crusaders . ....

Hey what about me? I know hydro to a degree :( everyone always over looks BadChoice lol

DazedNconfused78 · May 13, 2021

TheBadChoice said:
Hey what about me? I know hydro to a degree :( everyone always over

Tell me what you know. Lol

DazedNconfused78 · May 13, 2021

DreamwalkerJ said:
Ok im back. First thing, i was looking at your plants again and i think im seeing a magnesium deficiency creeping up but its hard to tell in the pic. Magnesium deficiency makes the very tips turn yellow and then the yellow moves along the serrated edges. Then when it starts to get bad you get interveinal chlorosis and it starts turning bright yellow between the veins. If this is magnesium deficiency theres 2 things you should do.

1. Check your pH. I keep mine around 5.8. Magnesium doesnt really get absorbed below 6.0pH. Dont forget, pH rises as it evaporates so if you flood with 5.8pH it could rise to 6.5-7

2. If the pH is fine, then its a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salts. No fancy smells or colors, just pure magnesium sulphate (Mg²SO4). Start by adding 1 gram per gallon..

Here is a simple way to add uvb, its basic but you can order them in differe t sizes and get what you need. They are the right wavelength for trichome production.....

Well. About 2 weeks ago my ppm was up around 2500. That might be that magnesium deficiency coming out now. My plants grew like crazy though. And now they have slowed way down

DazedNconfused78 · May 13, 2021

DreamwalkerJ said:
Ok im back. First thing, i was looking at your plants again and i think im seeing a magnesium deficiency creeping up but its hard to tell in the pic. Magnesium deficiency makes the very tips turn yellow and then the yellow moves along the serrated edges. Then when it starts to get bad you get interveinal chlorosis and it starts turning bright yellow between the veins. If this is magnesium deficiency theres 2 things you should do.

1. Check your pH. I keep mine around 5.8. Magnesium doesnt really get absorbed below 6.0pH. Dont forget, pH rises as it evaporates so if you flood with 5.8pH it could rise to 6.5-7

2. If the pH is fine, then its a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salts. No fancy smells or colors, just pure magnesium sulphate (Mg²SO4). Start by adding 1 gram per gallon..

Here is a simple way to add uvb, its basic but you can order them in differe t sizes and get what you need. They are the right wavelength for trichome production.....

Do i run the blacklight at the same time as my other lights? So i have my lights turned up to 60% right now. Is that right? Or should i have it turned to about 40% to get them to veg like they should? Blue spectrum.

DazedNconfused78 · May 13, 2021

DreamwalkerJ said:
Ok im back. First thing, i was looking at your plants again and i think im seeing a magnesium deficiency creeping up but its hard to tell in the pic. Magnesium deficiency makes the very tips turn yellow and then the yellow moves along the serrated edges. Then when it starts to get bad you get interveinal chlorosis and it starts turning bright yellow between the veins. If this is magnesium deficiency theres 2 things you should do.

1. Check your pH. I keep mine around 5.8. Magnesium doesnt really get absorbed below 6.0pH. Dont forget, pH rises as it evaporates so if you flood with 5.8pH it could rise to 6.5-7

2. If the pH is fine, then its a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salts. No fancy smells or colors, just pure magnesium sulphate (Mg²SO4). Start by adding 1 gram per gallon..

Here is a simple way to add uvb, its basic but you can order them in differe t sizes and get what you need. They are the right wavelength for trichome production.....

I am noticing some little holes in just a couple of the leaves. Bugs?

DazedNconfused78 · May 13, 2021

Ppm at 626. Ec is at around 1.2

DazedNconfused78 · May 13, 2021

Also...on defoliating...if new growth is growing up thru other leaves and not laterally would that be a good time to trim upper fan leaves that are blocking those sires? Keeping in mind to look down from above my plant

DazedNconfused78 · May 13, 2021

Ph is at 6.1 and i haven't checked it in a few days and thats what i put it at i think.

Cashmeh · May 13, 2021

The fan leafs provide photosynthesis and hold nutrients in reserve for the plant. If they are laying on top of each other they are not going to transpire very well. The newer leafs provide more efficient photosynthesis for plant growth.

I remove large fan leafs that stretch towards the center of the plant once they cover 3 or 4 nodes below it.

Topping it will just push more growth to the lower end, keeping it short and stocky.

I would remove fan leafs that are resting on the lid, laying on other leafs, and the few large ones covering multiple nodes thst grew into the middle of the plant. If they grow away from the plant I leave them.

After you top it, if you do, make sure to lollipop it and stress it. Spread it out, but it looks way to small to be doing any of thst just yet.

Cashmeh · May 13, 2021

DazedNconfused78 said:
Ph is at 6.1 and i haven't checked it in a few days and thats what i put it at i think.

Id drop ph down to 5.7 and lower ppm. Ppm just seems high for that small of a plant. I'm 2 months into a grow and am at 550ppm stable.

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

TheBadChoice said:
Hey what about me? I know hydro to a degree :( everyone always over looks BadChoice lol

I didnt even know you were still here

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

DazedNconfused78 said:
Do i run the blacklight at the same time as my other lights? So i have my lights turned up to 60% right now. Is that right? Or should i have it turned to about 40% to get them to veg like they should? Blue spectrum.

Like i said, go to google play and get a lux meter for your phone. It only measures the visible spectrum but it still gives you an idea of how much light the plants are getting. Try to keep it around 45,000 lux in full veg and at least 84,000 in bloom. As for what the other guy was saying, do not lollipop those plants. (Unless you really want to for some reason) Knowing your setup and what you want to do, "lollipopping" would be one of the dumbest things for you to do. Im sure the OP is happy growing their plant just to rip everything except the top few buds off (if you have hydro and know what youre doing, youll get WAY more yield from the manifolding/scrog training i was telling you about. Just make sure that any of the tiny nodes at the bottom that wont be anything worth while, snip them off so the plant doesnt waste energy on them. Look up the "manifolding" technique by nebula. Manifold the plants and put them under the screen. Perfect. What i suspect most people call lollipopping is really just lazy, half assed manifolding. Below are 2 pics, the first is of a plant being lollipopped and the second is of manifolding. Choose the one that fits your grow/preference

With manifolding you get a nice amount of buds while still keeping the plant short, bushy and uniform. The idea of lollipopping seems a waste to me, why veg a plant for 2 months just to strip the bottom 3/4 of the plant bare . Why do that when you can manifold and get that plant ready to flower like that in 3 or 4 weeks. As you can tell, im heavily biased against lollipopping. I know about the "amazing yields" people get but im not convinced. That same strain/pheno, treated in all the same ways would yield way higher if it was manifolded. Or at the very least it would yield at least the same in half the veg time. Like i said, use whichever one suits you best.

You should be checking your pH way more often or else it could crash down to 4.0 in a day and the plants would be dying before you knew anything was wrong bud. I like 5.8 oh and as far as the OP being stable at 550ppm 2 months in, im going to guess thats still in veg? 550ppm seems low for flowering, unless you just switched. Or you have finicky strains. Or if they have just been over fed and you need to be gentle now. Having said all that, some strains do like lower nutes in flower and i dont know anything about the OPs grow. He was absolutely right about the leaves laying on top of each other though, you really dont want.

As for the UV light, at the end of week 4 i turn 1 small one on (a little 2 footer), just to give them some UV until the last 2 weeks of flower, then i turn the other 2 big ones on (4 feet each)

@Cashmeh im not trying to bash your grow style or anything like that, its just that in Dazed's setup, that is definitely not the most efficient use if space and grow time. If you have good success lollipopping (and youre not just doing it because its relatively new and someone on the internet said its better so it MUST be.) Then i am glad youve had success. However, i have done both methods side by side with clones from the same mom so identical genetics. Manifolding with scrog yielded 20% more in half the time compared to the lollipop. If you havent tried this yet, i suggest you do and see what youve been missing. Think about it, half the veg time also means you can get 2 extra cycles in per year (if you keep rotating cycles back to back, dont waste time, and have plants that flower in less than 12 weeks.

Anyways, this is it for my massive message this time Dazed . Let me know what you think and which way you want to go and ill help you do it as best as i can. ✌
DwJ
P.S. if you want to manifold, you should top it for the first time once it has about 3 nodes. As a favor to me, can you read nebulas manifolding tutorial so i dont have to explain it all and take pics and all that? Thanks. Ill talk to you later bro.

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

DazedNconfused78 said:
Also...on defoliating...if new growth is growing up thru other leaves and not laterally would that be a good time to trim upper fan leaves that are blocking those sires? Keeping in mind to look down from above my plant

Yep yep

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

DazedNconfused78 said:
I am noticing some little holes in just a couple of the leaves. Bugs?

It doesnt look like bugs to me, it looks like damage from the leaf being squeezed or pinched or whatever the fuck. Watch CLOSELY. If no more holes appear, youre good. Look under the leaves too, most pest hide under the leaves. Your pH and ppm look spot on to me. I think youre doing everything right. I highly recommend you start some LST (low stress training) and start bending the taller branches down and out to open up the middle and other nodes as well. Just use soft garden ties, pipe cleaners, anything that wont cut into the plant and start making those ladies SPREAD EM (sorry i couldnt resist making an adult joke)

In case you havent done any training before, its not that complicated. First, just spend a minute or 2 with the plants and looking at them to get an idea of how the plant wants to grow and which branches to bend. Then when you pick a branch, wrap your little wire tie/pipe cleaner around the branch and gently bend the branch until you start to feel resistance and then tie it down. Do the same thing with any other branch you can/that needs it. In a day or 2 the tips will be turned back up to the light again and youll be able to bend those branches a little more. I bend them right down flat so that there are 6-8 branches off the main stalk that bend out at almost 90° angles and then turn up toward the light. Each branch is then topped 1 last time giv8ng me 12-16 tops per plant. The great thing about manifolding is that all of your work is done at the front end. Once you get it trained, tied down, under a screen, defoliated and then topped. Once youve dont that you pretty much just leave them to flower. Rearrange buds around week 4 of flower but thats it. Hope this helps.
DwJ

Cashmeh · May 13, 2021

DreamwalkerJ said:
Like i said, go to google play and get a lux meter for your phone. It only measures the visible spectrum but it still gives you an idea of how much light the plants are getting. Try to keep it around 45,000 lux in full veg and at least 84,000 in bloom. As for what the other guy was saying, do not lollipop those plants. (Unless you really want to for some reason) Knowing your setup and what you want to do, "lollipopping" would be one of the dumbest things for you to do. Im sure the OP is happy growing their plant just to rip everything except the top few buds off (if you have hydro and know what youre doing, youll get WAY more yield from the manifolding/scrog training i was telling you about. Just make sure that any of the tiny nodes at the bottom that wont be anything worth while, snip them off so the plant doesnt waste energy on them. Look up the "manifolding" technique by nebula. Manifold the plants and put them under the screen. Perfect. What i suspect most people call lollipopping is really just lazy, half assed manifolding. Below are 2 pics, the first is of a plant being lollipopped and the second is of manifolding. Choose the one that fits your grow/preferenceView attachment 1123767 View attachment 1123769

With manifolding you get a nice amount of buds while still keeping the plant short, bushy and uniform. The idea of lollipopping seems a waste to me, why veg a plant for 2 months just to strip the bottom 3/4 of the plant bare . Why do that when you can manifold and get that plant ready to flower like that in 3 or 4 weeks. As you can tell, im heavily biased against lollipopping. I know about the "amazing yields" people get but im not convinced. That same strain/pheno, treated in all the same ways would yield way higher if it was manifolded. Or at the very least it would yield at least the same in half the veg time. Like i said, use whichever one suits you best.

You should be checking your pH way more often or else it could crash down to 4.0 in a day and the plants would be dying before you knew anything was wrong bud. I like 5.8 oh and as far as the OP being stable at 550ppm 2 months in, im going to guess thats still in veg? 550ppm seems low for flowering, unless you just switched. Or you have finicky strains. Or if they have just been over fed and you need to be gentle now. Having said all that, some strains do like lower nutes in flower and i dont know anything about the OPs grow. He was absolutely right about the leaves laying on top of each other though, you really dont want.

As for the UV light, at the end of week 4 i turn 1 small one on (a little 2 footer), just to give them some UV until the last 2 weeks of flower, then i turn the other 2 big ones on (4 feet each)

@Cashmeh im not trying to bash your grow style or anything like that, its just that in Dazed's setup, that is definitely not the most efficient use if space and grow time. If you have good success lollipopping (and youre not just doing it because its relatively new and someone on the internet said its better so it MUST be.) Then i am glad youve had success. However, i have done both methods side by side with clones from the same mom so identical genetics. Manifolding with scrog yielded 20% more in half the time compared to the lollipop. If you havent tried this yet, i suggest you do and see what youve been missing. Think about it, half the veg time also means you can get 2 extra cycles in per year (if you keep rotating cycles back to back, dont waste time, and have plants that flower in less than 12 weeks.

Anyways, this is it for my massive message this time Dazed . Let me know what you think and which way you want to go and ill help you do it as best as i can. ✌
DwJ
P.S. if you want to manifold, you should top it for the first time once it has about 3 nodes. As a favor to me, can you read nebulas manifolding tutorial so i dont have to explain it all and take pics and all that? Thanks. Ill talk to you later bro.

This was topped once at week 3 from seed. Sent to flower at week 8. Waited 1 week and lollipopped it at week 9. I only left top top node on each cola. All else were gone. As you can see its still growing very tall and created multiple more nodes after lollipop. I'm not suggesting stay lollipopping it the entire time.

I am trying both veg times in this tent. My 2 photos were flipped at 35 days while my large auto was 12/12 at day 65 from seed. They are a month a part so I'll for sure be able to see a yield difference.

From my understandings through research mainly on these forums, training, topping, Scrogging, supercropping, and lollipop will not increase your yield, it will only effect the size of your plant and the size of your buds. Yet Idk about this manafold technique your talking about. I'll study up a bit and get back with ya.

My big one stays at 5.6 and 950 - 1000ppm. Little ones are at 5.6 and and 550. Ppm on both plants are stable and drop around 5ppm per day if not touched. My water temp is also 72. My res changes are every 3 weeks now lol...

I defoliate large leafs and inner leafs once every 14 days. Seems to be working perfect for me.

I will mention this is my first grow. Roots are so happy and I'm so happy lol..

DreamwalkerJ · May 13, 2021

TheBadChoice said:
Hey what about me? I know hydro to a degree

Cashmeh said:
This was topped once at week 3 from seed. Sent to flower at week 8. Waited 1 week and lollipopped it at week 9. I only left top top node on each cola. All else were gone. As you can see its still growing very tall and created multiple more nodes after lollipop. I'm not suggesting stay lollipopping it the entire time.

I am trying both veg times in this tent. My 2 photos were flipped at 35 days while my large auto was 12/12 at day 65 from seed. They are a month a part so I'll for sure be able to see a yield difference.

From my understandings through research mainly on these forums, training, topping, Scrogging, supercropping, and lollipop will not increase your yield, it will only effect the size of your plant and the size of your buds. Yet Idk about this manafold technique your talking about. I'll study up a bit and get back with ya.

My big one stays at 5.6 and 950 - 1000ppm. Little ones are at 5.6 and and 550. Ppm on both plants are stable and drop around 5ppm per day if not touched. My water temp is also 72. My res changes are every 3 weeks now lol...

I defoliate large leafs and inner leafs once every 14 days. Seems to be working perfect for me.

I will mention this is my first grow. Roots are so happy and I'm so happy lol..

Nice looks good. But thats not lollipopping, thats just extreme defoliation. It looks like youll get some nice nugs there. What strain?

Cashmeh · May 13, 2021

Big beefy one is white widow auto. Little dark green one is king tut, stringy one is gelot. Og

And yea like I said.. I'm still new.

Been having a few problems

Been having a few problems

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Been having a few problems

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