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Been having a few problems

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Been having a few problems

DazedNconfused78 813 Replies 76,521 Views
Page 6 of 41 · Replies 101–120 of 814
#105
DreamwalkerJ said:
Man hands down for the value look at the Rayonled 720 UV. Its 680w true LED power and the 2 UV bars are 40W If its too much then look at the mars hydro FC4800 480w but only has 4, literally 4 UV diodes, but for the money its a good light.. Both have uv but the rayonled has A LOT as well as deep red and IR the rayonled will flower a 5x5 and the mars FC4800 will flower a 4x4.
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I didn't see any price for it anywhere. And really with my light and its spectrum i should have it turned down to about 30%? Shouldn't I?
 
#106
Shit! Check these out. They aren't leds. But? Sunplix
 

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#108
@DreamwalkerJ i like the idea of the manifolding. Sounds simple enough too. But also im learning where to cut know. Like i did with my tomatoes. Ill have these gurls looking sweet. Just the sets of fan leaves i cut yesterday. Those bud sites underneath already filled that gap. Thats a good thing.
 
#109
DazedNconfused78 said:
H202 is hydrogen peroxide right?
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Yeah so a sterile grow, makes sense with that fancy um well cover growing area or whatever it is lol. Thumbs up and good luck bud you seem to be covered, me personally I like live grows specially for the space and area that I can grow in.
 
#110
DazedNconfused78 said:
H202 is hydrogen peroxide right?
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ok so to make this easy, i was just discussing this yesterday with someone else so ill just quote it:
@Aqua Man
Ok you should dilute that before adding with RO water 9 parts water 1 part h2o2 (30%). That will give you almost 3% and of that you want to add 5ml per gal of actual water so if 30gal of actual water 150ml. That would equate to about 15ml of your concentrate.

If you add it directly it can burn roots and then they are susceptible to infection. This should be done every 2-3days because it breaks down very fast. You are basically knocking out the bacteria and it start to repopulate and then you knock it down again. It does not stay in the system for an extended period of time like bennies. It reacts and is literally gone in less than 24hrs. So thats how you run a sterile system.

There ya go bud, running a sterile system. Yes live grows CAN have phenomenal terpenes from the organics but for indoor i personally prefer sterile as it greatly reduces your chances of having issues commonly associated with live grows.

That light your talking about is a CMH. Its an HID ceramic metal halide. It runs with a single 315W CMH bulb in each hood. If you want CMH then just go for the 1000w DE CMH. the only real differences between CMH and MH/HPS is that the CMH can be used for both veg and bloom, it has some UV, but not a lot. Plants like it because it is way closer to natural sunlight than HPS is. But if you want to go HID then i highly recommend looking at the EYE hortilux BLUE. Trust me i know i know its metal halide during flower but shut up and listen😂😂 the hortilux BLUE has a 5500K color temp and of all the lights available, it is THE light that best simulates sunlight. If you just cant fet past the idea of using MH in bloom then use the hortilux CERAMIC HPS, it has more blues and UV than standard hps. The horrilux BLUE however, does have enough red spectrum light for flower but it also has the UVs, greens, and blues for making the dank dank.
Oh and the rayonled 720 UV is about $1500 canadian. Worth. Every. Cent.
 
#111
DreamwalkerJ said:
ok so to make this easy, i was just discussing this yesterday with someone else so ill just quote it:
@Aqua Man
Ok you should dilute that before adding with RO water 9 parts water 1 part h2o2 (30%). That will give you almost 3% and of that you want to add 5ml per gal of actual water so if 30gal of actual water 150ml. That would equate to about 15ml of your concentrate.

If you add it directly it can burn roots and then they are susceptible to infection. This should be done every 2-3days because it breaks down very fast. You are basically knocking out the bacteria and it start to repopulate and then you knock it down again. It does not stay in the system for an extended period of time like bennies. It reacts and is literally gone in less than 24hrs. So thats how you run a sterile system.

There ya go bud, running a sterile system. Yes live grows CAN have phenomenal terpenes from the organics but for indoor i personally prefer sterile as it greatly reduces your chances of having issues commonly associated with live grows.

That light your talking about is a CMH. Its an HID ceramic metal halide. It runs with a single 315W CMH bulb in each hood. If you want CMH then just go for the 1000w DE CMH. the only real differences between CMH and MH/HPS is that the CMH can be used for both veg and bloom, it has some UV, but not a lot. Plants like it because it is way closer to natural sunlight than HPS is. But if you want to go HID then i highly recommend looking at the EYE hortilux BLUE. Trust me i know i know its metal halide during flower but shut up and listen😂😂 the hortilux BLUE has a 5500K color temp and of all the lights available, it is THE light that best simulates sunlight. If you just cant fet past the idea of using MH in bloom then use the hortilux CERAMIC HPS, it has more blues and UV than standard hps. The horrilux BLUE however, does have enough red spectrum light for flower but it also has the UVs, greens, and blues for making the dank dank.
Oh and the rayonled 720 UV is about $1500 canadian. Worth. Every. Cent.
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Just wanted to add that is for 28% hydrogen peroxide. Simply you want to dilute your hydrogen peroxide to 3% before adding to you system.

Oops nevermind ya got that in there 👍👍👍👍
 
#112
Aqua Man said:
Just wanted to add that is for 28% hydrogen peroxide. Simply you want to dilute your hydrogen peroxide to 3% before adding to you system.

Oops nevermind ya got that in there 👍👍👍👍
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I already have 3% H202. So basically i could add the whole bottle to my 50 gallon res. It's already diluted for me.
 
#114
If cost becomes an issue you can try to get away with 3ml a gal.
 
#115
Aqua Man said:
5ml per gal every 2-3 days. Your much better off buying the concentrated stuff.
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The concentrated stuff is usually food grade. The diluted stuff usually has buffers, lubricants, stabilizers and other contaminants. Truth be told if you look at a bottle of 3% peroxide look at the ingredients. If it lists hydrogen peroxide and water you might be good, i think otherwise they state at there is "other" stuff in the water. It would be a really low concentration and probably would be fine but sometimes, hydro can go fucky for some pretty stupid reasons.
 
#116
DreamwalkerJ said:
The concentrated stuff is usually food grade. The diluted stuff usually has buffers, lubricants, stabilizers and other contaminants. Truth be told if you look at a bottle of 3% peroxide look at the ingredients. If it lists hydrogen peroxide and water you might be good, i think otherwise they state at there is "other" stuff in the water. It would be a really low concentration and probably would be fine but sometimes, hydro can go fucky for some pretty stupid reasons.
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Yup absolutely.
 
#117
DreamwalkerJ said:
The concentrated stuff is usually food grade. The diluted stuff usually has buffers, lubricants, stabilizers and other contaminants. Truth be told if you look at a bottle of 3% peroxide look at the ingredients. If it lists hydrogen peroxide and water you might be good, i think otherwise they state at there is "other" stuff in the water. It would be a really low concentration and probably would be fine but sometimes, hydro can go fucky for some pretty stupid reasons.
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It says stabilized. And also the only other inactive ingredient is purified water. So i might be good.
 
#119
DazedNconfused78 said:
It says stabilized. And also the only other inactive ingredient is purified water. So i might be good.
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H202 breaks down very fast thats why, when its not concentrated, they add stabilizers. You should be ok but i would use concentrated if you can.
Let me put it this way, if you think you might be facing pythium or some pathogen then adding 3% with stabiliwers is WAY better than waiting until you get food grade. I have used 3% with no problems in an emergency
 
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