caliogk
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I run the Technflora full lineup with SnowStorm Ultra and Gravity in late flower. But with this setup, I cant get my ppm's above 750 without burining the plants and thats with co2 levels at 1500ppm. Every one I see runs theirs hotter, and I just cant figure out why I cant.
I don't mean to thread jack but it could be a number of things, strain being 1 of them. Also, with snow storm ultra and purple maxx (basically the same product) you have to cut your nutrient mix by 25% minimum when using. If you cut out the snow storm I'm sure you could go hotter on the nutes but I have gone BOTH ways (with and with out purple maxx/snow storm ultra) and I would never go with out it now. Could be environmental factors also....
Boomer, I got a finished sample of the BubbaxOG from my boy and its flame!! Sugar covered, pre-98 purple, bubba dominant looking but it has the OG twang/smell/taste. He said there is really no stretch when you flip to 12/12 and finishes in 8 weeks flat - we could have different strains though.
I am very happy I have this strain and I'm leaning towards it being a white bubba with how frosted it is.
I personally don't use purple maxx for purpling. That is strain and temp. specific and can be achieved w/o chemicals. Purple Maxx really packs on frost like no other - I can co-sign this myself.
My first couple years I didn't use it, found jack on RIU when he first started his soil grow and he used it, so I decided to try. I have not had any loss in flavor/potency @ all in my opinion since using it. The only problem with it is on the bottle they say they don't know why it works, and they don't have proper feeding schedules for it. It's gonna take a couple rounds and feeding methods to get it down but it's worth it.
I know jack does something crazy with it like foliar feed it 7th week on + feed in the rez or some crazy shit like that. :icon_spin:
I'm keeping this strain around for a while after what my boy gave me. As for the yield, we need to figure that out brotha! Keep trying different things till get it.
I dropped the Purple Max I did a side by side with the same strain and same nutes one given Purple Max and one with out and the one with it burnt harsh like it wasnt properly flushed but it was.Its 99% genetics if the strain is frosty its going to be frosty if given what it needs,It took me a long time and hard work but I finally have an amazing line up of frosty and AAA Meds, Chemdog #4 X DEEP CHUNK, Fire OG the real deal, White Fire #3, White,Fire Bubba and Strawberry Bubba :banana1sv6:, These will all frost up and do not require anything extra..If your having good luck with Purple Max keep using it. There are things you can do to get a purple strain more purple or a frosty strain more dense and droppping the base nutes the last few days and running Over Drive only will make your buds rock hard ..We are all here to learn and share are knowledge I hope this can help you Boomer, Where you not happy with the Sour Grapes? I know most of Oaksterdam's strains are pretty played out at this point I also know its hard to get good clones :hunter:... JACK
There are things you can do to get a purple strain more purple or a frosty strain more dense and droppping the base nutes the last few days and running Over Drive only will make your buds rock hard .JACK
This is what I did for the Under Current system I dropped everything except Over Drive the last 8 days and ran it at 300 ppm for 4 days and then 150 for 2 and then straight RO the last 2 days every day they where getting Over Drive they just exploded and became rock hard Im talking like a rock like the buds where pressed together :cool0019:This also kept the weight on during drying..Big Ups Cali OGK,...JACK
There looking good sir, nice op.
It's always nice when jack stops by with a gem :boogie:
What up with the chillers Boomer?
My routine for transplant from veg to flower is;
-Clones vegged in 6" RW cubes til 18" with supercropping.
-Then the 6" cube is put on top a 4" uni-slab of Rockwool.
-All RW has been presoaked to lower PH.
-Then i move the 6" RW cube combined w/ the 4" slab into
the flower room under the HPS and scrog netting.
-Lights come on 12/12
Now my question is am i overstressing the plant possibly due to the fact that i am transplanting when roots are blown out the bottom of the 6" cube and put on top the 4" uni slab at the same time the lights are flipped to 12/12?
What im gonna experiment with this round of veg transplant is im gonna transplant the 6" cube onto the 4" rw slab during the last week of veg (4th week when plants are 12"-15" tall) and let them experience shock while in the veg room and recover there under the 1000w MH instead of running the 3x600w on table 2 waiting for the plants to recover from transplant shock? my theory is allowing them to go into transplant shock and recover while in veg (before they go into flower) that the roots will be healthy and strong ready to dig into the fresh 4" uni slab. Thus allowing the 3x600w and co2 to be used more productively and more cost effective? also i would think the extra unstressed time in flower will increase the over yield? idk makes sense to me if anyone has other thoughts plz share.
-the veg table is an ebb n' flow hydro setup so itd have to soak the fresh 4" slab and hopefully enough gets sucked up to the top where roots from the bottom of the 6" cube sits on top waiting to dive in. hope this creates enough moisture for the 6" cube and the rest of the plant to be watered/fed and recover?
-time to light up and have a discussion :character0050:
hey boomer nice grow. how was the taste flushing with the od?
Hey Boom, hard to tell without being there, but to me it sounds like you're dealing with (and it's hard to separate and quantify the two, as they generally happen together) much more LIGHT shock as opposed to TRANSPLANT shock.
Sounds like your transplanting routine is spot on, so I'd have to believe that you need to introduce the extra light to those ladies a little more incrementally instead of blasting them all at once - this is the main reason I'm selling my current ballasts and buying some digi dimmables.
In order to solve a problem with two variables, you need to isolate one of them first, and my choice would be to play around with a smoother lighting transition.
In regards to your question, without a doubt less stress and a quicker recovery will increase your yield.
thanks for bringin that up actually. ive been wondering if light shock was an issue. im not as familiar with the WHY part that they go into shock but i will def try a diff method. i think my ballasts are dimable as well so ill have to climb up to the support beams and check. if anything ill jsut raise the lights anohter foot higher to reduce the lumen shock?
i remember jackmayoffer mentioning most kushes dont scrog well. so i got a lot more stretch then i anticipated so i had to swap out my limited heighth cables and get smaller chains to rehang my lights and lift them higher. sum tops are only 2" away from the glass. lol. theres no heat stress or heat build up so it seems fine as of now. i want the lamps the proper distance away regardless.
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im gonna run the OD this round all the way thru like u mentioned instead of the budcandy. thanks for the flush details. wasnt sure exactly wat all u were flushin with (if anything)
thanks bro glad u could stop by hope u stick around for the good stuff :animbong:
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