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caregiverken

Fear Not!
Supporter
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Bummer... did you hang yours in a room with light?
yep.:bag: its dark 12 hours a day though;)
I have read that light degrades the THC making it less potent...
But I have never heard that the light can mess with the flavor till today when i read it here.

Drying really is the hardest part..and after 3 years and quite a few Lbs...I still suck at it.:bag:

Really good flowers are hard to completely ruin though.:D
 
I saw this somewhere. Numbers always seem to help me.



Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

Some well-worded and executed How-to using this technique from later in the thread:
 
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313
I saw this somewhere. Numbers always seem to help me.



Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

Some well-worded and executed How-to using this technique from later in the thread:
solid info .....thanks on a side not the green crack / burmese were the fastest i have ever seen seedling shoot out of the dirt literally 5 hrs and they were up..... excited .....

blessings SoSerThc1
 
I know this is an old thread but just thought I'd share my 2 cents. At the end of my flush I wait until the pots are light. Like you were a lil late on watering but not days late. I then trim off any leaves that would wrap around larger buds when you hang(to prevent mold and allow all buds to dry at the same rate). Then turn off the lights for at least 4 hours. Now comes my special method that many growers I know have gone to. I cut them down in complete darkness with only a green headlamp for light to see what I'm doing. They then go into a closet that is regulated at 60% humidity for 5-7 days or until the smallest lower branch snaps (again never seeing light). A small fan to gently move air is used but don't let it blow on the flowers themselves. After the smallest lower branch will snap they get taken down and trimmed. Once trimmed they go into a paper bag. Only fill the bottom 3-4 inches of the bag so they can breath a bit. Shake the bag up gently every day for 2-3 days or until the buds seem brittle on the outside but a lil flex when you pinch the stem between your finger nails. Then they are ready for a jar that is burped every day for 1-2 weeks. This has been the best method I've used and it enhances the qualities of the bud. Once you try it I'm sure you will be very surprised with the results. It's night and day. Very good info on here btw. This site is my daily reading material and I learn something new every day.
 
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I now skip using the paper bag...just go from dry-hanging straight into mason jars which get rolled and burped daily. It's my belief that much of the terpenes (flavor/odor), as well as the moisture is being lost when absorbed by the paper bags.

I do follow DJ's recommendation to slow cure it as long as possible for the best smoke. And once dry, left alone in the sealed jars (away from heat and sunlight) to let cure for at least 2-3 weeks.
 
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I'm with kolah on the paper bag theory. I had a chance to talk to DJ in Pasadena last year. We covered this topic for about 15 mins. TK covered the conversation with the first post on this thread. But DJ did say something that stuck with me - if ur taking ur product to competition, let it cure for 8 months to a year! Glass jar method kept in the dark and burped everyday for the first couple weeks and gradually less as time goes... haven't tried this yet... can't wait that long personally but this info kinda blew my mind.

One thing I'm practicing right now is flooding my medium upon the last week of flower. Literally keeping my medium over saturated to limit any oxygen to my roots.since roots cannot uptake, due to being drowned, the plant uses nutrients within itself. A "fermentation" process also occurs converting sugars/ starches into alcohol. This process has lead to a faster cure, its like getting a jump start. I can literally take my bud from its 9 day dry period and smoke it. However I due cure in jars still but this process skips that period after dry when ur bud may smell like hay and then it takes 3 weeks of cure to put that aroma it once had upon pull. Fun fact of the day.

Happy Sunday funday
 
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263
I have some cured pot from last years grow and must say it is terrific, full of flavor and still packs a punch.

I see it much the same as aged wine....but from what I have read after 2-3 years as it can start to degrade.

I often pull out my aged pot ( and big top colas) when friends visit and/or for special occasions. (a bit of bragging rights I guess). I am mostly a Midnight Toker so weed stays around a while and I treat it pretty religious-like.

Interesting technique Z-ma, on bigtime flooding before harvest, I'll have to try it.
 
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^^ why isn't that humd% tut and jaring info listed on beginning of thread? it's ultra good info, exp for guy's who all they do is 3 stage drying!

Anyways I will write a tut and you guys could add it to the front page or w/e :)


--------------------------------

Here's my written version of the tutorial on processing your meds in a easy/simply way. Read first page obviously for on-the-stem drying medthod.

Why DO this over the old method of removing only fan leafs and putting it upside down on lines? Simple! It's 2-3 times harder to simply have the majority of the up-close leafs removed after dried instead of doing it before drying.

just wear A grade gloves, don't man handle your buds and you will never go back to previous ways of trimming & drying. Just over the bag quality reasons and timing.

3-step-trim/dry/cure method by BH


(Remember all meds should be dried,cured, stored forever in darkness!)
( People forget like all green-dried matter ( hints why if you dry it to quickly it. Then it will smell like cut grass), it must be properly cured (slowly) & dried slowly. Even if you try to re add your moisture.

1: remove all fan leaf's and obvious non trich junk. leave enough stem before you do the final trim so you can hold the buds in you hand. Sometimes i leave more than needed stem on just because of humidity reasons. simply because the beginning part of drying is the most important part of drying because if you dry it to quickly you will destroy your flavor/smell & potency.


2: remove ALL sugar trim, dry all of it and then you can make w/e extracts you want. if alcohol: fresher the better on buds. they can be non dry. ice, dry extraction has to be dried properly ( I cure all mine for 2-5 weeks)


3: put all evenly on dry-racks ( every 12-24 hours flip all buds genetly)
7-14 day drying on dry-racking all med's . Jar all meds and burp for 1-4 hours ( I start higher first 1-4 days and then decrease)

*Get a small Hum/temp probe and get your humd down to 60-65% by the 10-14 day marker and then it can be bagged or vacuumed if desired.
 
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18
I'm with kolah on the paper bag theory. I had a chance to talk to DJ in Pasadena last year. We covered this topic for about 15 mins. TK covered the conversation with the first post on this thread. But DJ did say something that stuck with me - if ur taking ur product to competition, let it cure for 8 months to a year! Glass jar method kept in the dark and burped everyday for the first couple weeks and gradually less as time goes... haven't tried this yet... can't wait that long personally but this info kinda blew my mind.

One thing I'm practicing right now is flooding my medium upon the last week of flower. Literally keeping my medium over saturated to limit any oxygen to my roots.since roots cannot uptake, due to being drowned, the plant uses nutrients within itself. A "fermentation" process also occurs converting sugars/ starches into alcohol. This process has lead to a faster cure, its like getting a jump start. I can literally take my bud from its 9 day dry period and smoke it. However I due cure in jars still but this process skips that period after dry when ur bud may smell like hay and then it takes 3 weeks of cure to put that aroma it once had upon pull. Fun fact of the day.

Happy Sunday funday
I too am doing this, med man turned me on to his 'shock ripening' for both soil/hydro that is along the same lines,
flood with ice cold water for several days, keep in absolute dark.

The chopping down under green light that
Urbngrnthmb mentioned is new to me and it is something I would def give a go.
 
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Er ma gerd.
View attachment 402813 View attachment 402811 View attachment 402810 View attachment 402809 Can anyone tell me what strain this plant is? A friend of mine gave me a seed he found in a bag thanks
Wrong place for this post. Perhaps it can be moved?
I for one don't like bag seed.
(So long as purposely created seeds are available)
On the other hand, that's a nice plant.
Looks like the wide leaf UBC.
How's that for a WAG?

I was excited to read more about "shock ripening".
So this post is just a bump for a seminal thread.
 
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Shock ripening? What's up with the chopping under green light?
my guess would be since your not 'waking' the plant up she won't be sending fluids up her stalks while your snipping and clipping by green light,
guess you'd chop her down when done and hang her up, then when you turn on the lights to see your handy work there is no flow.

I am pretty high right now so....

:woot:
 
39
18
^^ why isn't that humd% tut and jaring info listed on beginning of thread? it's ultra good info, exp for guy's who all they do is 3 stage drying!

Anyways I will write a tut and you guys could add it to the front page or w/e :)


--------------------------------

Here's my written version of the tutorial on processing your meds in a easy/simply way. Read first page obviously for on-the-stem drying medthod.

Why DO this over the old method of removing only fan leafs and putting it upside down on lines? Simple! It's 2-3 times harder to simply have the majority of the up-close leafs removed after dried instead of doing it before drying.

just wear A grade gloves, don't man handle your buds and you will never go back to previous ways of trimming & drying. Just over the bag quality reasons and timing.

3-step-trim/dry/cure method by BH


(Remember all meds should be dried,cured, stored forever in darkness!)
( People forget like all green-dried matter ( hints why if you dry it to quickly it. Then it will smell like cut grass), it must be properly cured (slowly) & dried slowly. Even if you try to re add your moisture.


1: remove all fan leaf's and obvious non trich junk. leave enough stem before you do the final trim so you can hold the buds in you hand. Sometimes i leave more than needed stem on just because of humidity reasons. simply because the beginning part of drying is the most important part of drying because if you dry it to quickly you will destroy your flavor/smell & potency.


2: remove ALL sugar trim, dry all of it and then you can make w/e extracts you want. if alcohol: fresher the better on buds. they can be non dry. ice, dry extraction has to be dried properly ( I cure all mine for 2-5 weeks)


3: put all evenly on dry-racks ( every 12-24 hours flip all buds genetly)
7-14 day drying on dry-racking all med's . Jar all meds and burp for 1-4 hours ( I start higher first 1-4 days and then decrease)


*Get a small Hum/temp probe and get your humd down to 60-65% by the 10-14 day marker and then it can be bagged or vacuumed if desired.
what I do is this..



then this...


 
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Dj short is doing his first class in Massachusetts this weekend on may 10th at the lantana in randolph. I could probably get more info on the farm in two hours of reading than sit through his $150 class ....
 
Cure Your Medicine by DJ Short

Proper curing can exponentially increase the quality and desirability of your harvest. The key word to remember is "slow".

Dark & Dry
After cutting the plant or branch, hang it upside down in a cool, dry, and most importantly dark place. Light must be avoided from this point on. Leave the larger shade leaves on and they will gently droop and wrap around the plant, protecting the buds.

The time to the next step depends on how dry your hanging area is. This requires regular checking to determine when to proceed. When the larger shade leaves become dry and brittle to the touch it is time to gently clip them off.

Re-hang the branches in the drying room and regularly check them until the smaller leaves and bud tips become dry and brittle to the touch. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as "manicuring".

Now you have a few choices as to what to do with your manicured buds. The buds should still be a little wet at this point, especially on the inside, but the outer part of the buds should be starting to feel dry. Some of the buds, the smaller ones in particular, might even be smokable at this point.

If you are in a more humid area, or if the buds are still feeling heavy with moisture, you may want to try placing them on a suspended screen for a little while. This will help to hasten the drying process. Once again, regular checking to decide when they are ready for the next stage is crucial. This is also a skill that is developed more with time and experience, so practice!

Brown Bagging It
Once the buds are crisp on the outside but still moist on the inside it is time for the next step in the process: the paper bag. I like to use brown paper shopping bags due to their not being bleached, an unwanted chemical.

Simply fill a paper bag a few inches deep with the manicured buds. Don't pack the buds down and do not fold the bag too tight. A few small folds at the top of the bag, like a lunch bag, should suffice.

If the buds are a tad wet or if humid conditions dominate, you might want to consider cutting a few small holes in the bag, above the level of the buds, for ventilation.

As with proper manicuring, regular checking is key. The bags should be gently shaken, ever-so-carefully turning the buds, at least once a day. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the self-preserving state that we all know and love. It is at this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag folded down tighter. They should now be fully smokable, though perhaps still slightly damp at the core.

The entire process, from harvest to these first smokable products, should take anywhere from two to four weeks, depending on your climate. Extremes in climate, such as very arid deserts or tropical humid areas, may take more or less time. There is no substitute for consistent, hands-on checking.


The Final Stage
A final curing stage, preferred by most connoisseurs, involves sealable jars. The nearly ready buds are transferred from the bag to the jar, packed in very loosely, and the jar is sealed. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day.

I like to dump them all out of the jar and gently fluff them up at least once a day at first, then less often as time progresses, usually for a week to ten days. It is important to be as gentle as possible so as not to damage too many of the resin glands. After a week or so all I do is simply open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis.

Watch for Mold
The main thing to watch (and smell) for throughout all of the curing process is mold. Whenever mold is found it must be dealt with immediately. The moldy bud needs to be removed, and the rest of the product needs to be exposed to a drier environment for a while.

The simplest solution is to go back one step. For example, if the mold was detected in the jar stage simply put the rest of the product back to the bag stage for awhile (after removing the contaminated product from the batch). If the mold is detected in the bag stage, go back to the screen. The screen is the driest process that I know of. If problems with the mold occur prior to this, a dehumidifier in the drying room may be the answer.

Aside from watching and smelling for mold, always remember to keep the product in the dark.

Ready to go!
A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for sale or consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps when the bud is cracked with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. It is at this stage that the product can safely be sealed and stored for an indefinite period of time.

The longer you can stretch out this process, while also avoiding mold, the better. I like when it takes six to eight weeks from harvest to the finished product. You will be able to detect the fragrance of the product becoming more and more desirable as time progresses.

Another ditty I grabbed along the way

Tex
Great information, thank you!
 

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