Rikismom420
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I just attached my ac sealed to tent and I have a occl. Fan at bottom, started last night with 12/12. But I can’t really control the temp inside the bedroom and my tent is just 5’ tall. Which. Sux I found out ,that is why I starting my flowering to be able to have the lights not be too close during flowering.mine is the 300 exhaust at bottom also, have humidifier in tent and run that when lights are on.have aha going Co2 pad whether it works or not but my environment has improveved greatly from the beginning, ph problem....not like the weed u though seeds in garden then let go, long long ago...lol. I use ff ocean soil with some coco mixed in and ff nutrients as directed 1/2 strength as directed ,Rh I have no idea I know that heat holds water vapor better so feel that is in my favor. My hum monitor says 40 or so ,transplanting to bigger pots made much much better growing , the auto flower is because I have some seeds to use so thought I would do that later ,have my ledsat about 18” above plants , strain oh and big bud from ministry of cannabis...not really worried about strain, I know ihave one sativa and two indices which is fine, thx so very much for responding , I have read so much online , have vegged about 6 to 7 weeks , thx again , happy growingThe autoflower will cause more problems if your environment isn't dialed in because you won't have much time to fix problems especially once flowering begins. Autoflower don't necessarily produce less yield but they don't have the ability to veg for weeks on end because of grower mistakes. I've pulled 30oz off two plants under a 600w northern lights auto
The average home contains 400ppms of C02. I think your entire problem in the setup of your environment.
The way I run my tent is in an upstairs bedroom.
I have a 20" box fan mounted to the ceiling in the tent that cools my lights and circulates air really well.
I have a 300cfm exhaust fan with a carbon filter at the bottom.
An intake line near my AC that pulls cold air into the tent
I have a heater and a humidifier connected to controllers for 72-84f temps and 60-65% RH for flowering but 70-80% during veg.
What is your RH usually at? Are you already flowering? Nutrients, grow medium? What strain? How long have you vegged?
I just attached my ac sealed to tent and I have a occl. Fan at bottom, started last night with 12/12. But I can’t really control the temp inside the bedroom and my tent is just 5’ tall. Which. Sux I found out ,that is why I starting my flowering to be able to have the lights not be too close during flowering.mine is the 300 exhaust at bottom also, have humidifier in tent and run that when lights are on.have aha going Co2 pad whether it works or not but my environment has improveved greatly from the beginning, ph problem....not like the weed u though seeds in garden then let go, long long ago...lol. I use ff ocean soil with some coco mixed in and ff nutrients as directed 1/2 strength as directed ,Rh I have no idea I know that heat holds water vapor better so feel that is in my favor. My hum monitor says 40 or so ,transplanting to bigger pots made much much better growing , the auto flower is because I have some seeds to use so thought I would do that later ,have my ledsat about 18” above plants , strain oh and big bud from ministry of cannabis...not really worried about strain, I know ihave one sativa and two indices which is fine, thx so very much for responding , I have read so much online , have vegged about 6 to 7 weeks , thx again , happy growing
Thx again my friendTry some wet towels for higher humidity. I don't know how well those c02 methods work, not enough for me to invest in, and your plants aren't very big for a 6-7 week veg. If you can bring your temp down and raise your RH I think you'll be fine and be able to run those lights closer.
Higher temps hold more humidity but you're extracting air into what seems to be a dry environment despite your plants transpiring water more quickly due to high heat and low humidity. I say raise the humidity, don't worry about c02 and keep them healthy and happy to the end.
I also suggest getting some microbes and enzymes to help your roots and overall plant health. You can still do foliar applications before the buds start forming. So you can do a microbial drench, like a tea of Recharge or Great White, and then use the rest for a foliar. It will help inoculate your roots and protect the plant better against environmental stress, bacteria, and pathogens
With the autos start light on the feed especially since your soil comes fertilized to some degree you might not even use a lot of nutrients.
Thanks! This will be my first sativa grow and my first real attempt at photo periods. I grew out some bag seed in soil for my first grow and did pretty horribly. My wife has been urging me to start pheno hunting instead of growing autos combined with our dislike of indicas.
I'm hoping it goes well as I have never scrogged nor fimmed before. The hope is I can manage their heights by keeping consistent night/day temps to get stretching to a minimum. The seeds were quite small which surprised me but they seemed a bit vigorous compared to some of my other grows I had believed to have fast growth.
I'll gladly accept your help. Drop a link too your journal here and I'll keep up with it
I read a very informative article about overfeeding P and/or K, as well as everyone's favorite, Cal-Mag. The interplay between too much Potassium and the resulting inability of the plants to take up Nitrogen was very interesting, since it fit the bill for a lot of growers who are seeing yellowing leaves after using a fairly strong blooming potion. There was also info about Manganese (I think) causing Calcium to be un-available and causing signs of deficiencies, while the problem is actually from overdosing on something else. The Ph range was surprisingly narrow, with levels lower than 6.0 causing problems. With everyone keeping their Ph pretty close to the 6.0 level, it isn't surprising that these problems pop up. Of course, alkaline soil is also problematic but seem to be less likely than an acidic medium... plus many nutes are acidic and can contribute to these issues. I couldn't find the URL for the article, but I found it researching NPK usage under various conditions. It's a LOT more complicated that I really thought, and actually makes diagnosing problems more difficult, since a simple N deficiency might actually be from too much P or K in the soil, compounded by Ph dependent reactions.@Jimster
They were killing off short branches that had tried to flower but were pathetic below the canopy.
I think the problem was they started drinking more and my ppm was too low. I ran several gallons of water through them because I saw some under watering and I like to do it once a month. The current ppm is 1100 with a 6.0 ph but they slowed down on shedding.
Hi funk and thx,Rickismom420 did you say ex tractor fan is at bottom? Needs to be at the top hot air rises.
Are you running your lights through the day? If so problem solved switch to night time.
As Damien50 said you can use an intake fan. But where as you expelling your air from outtake fan?
I run my outtake fan into attic to expel the hot air and make sure I exchange it for the fresh air that’s inside the room my tent is in. The best way to work if you’re reclycling the same air is sealed room.
That’s when you use co2 to replenish the air that has been used.
Personally I don’t see any any point of using co2 with extraction that isn’t recycled, as in traditional set up your expelling the hot used oxygen away from the grow.
I don’t see any negative pressure in your tent you’re tent should sucking in if it’s not your not exchanging the air. A little bit like you living in a room all your life with the windows shut.
Sorry just looking at photos again not sure about how you have set up but I would have exaust in top corner of your tent expelling the air out of room that holds tent you can use passive intake or intake fan but if the hot stale air is going back into the grow you need co2. Then temps don’t matter as much too you will want to run at higher temperatures.
I suggest you start a thread and then invite a few people by e.g. @Funk junky or and @damien50 as good etiquette and listen people here are there to help so remember everyone makes mistakes. Not saying you have just trying to figure out what’s happening in your grow:)
Rickismom420 did you say ex tractor fan is at bottom? Needs to be at the top hot air rises.
Are you running your lights through the day? If so problem solved switch to night time.
As Damien50 said you can use an intake fan. But where as you expelling your air from outtake fan?
I run my outtake fan into attic to expel the hot air and make sure I exchange it for the fresh air that’s inside the room my tent is in. The best way to work if you’re reclycling the same air is sealed room.
That’s when you use co2 to replenish the air that has been used.
Personally I don’t see any any point of using co2 with extraction that isn’t recycled, as in traditional set up your expelling the hot used oxygen away from the grow.
I don’t see any negative pressure in your tent you’re tent should sucking in if it’s not your not exchanging the air. A little bit like you living in a room all your life with the windows shut.
Sorry just looking at photos again not sure about how you have set up but I would have exaust in top corner of your tent expelling the air out of room that holds tent you can use passive intake or intake fan but if the hot stale air is going back into the grow you need co2. Then temps don’t matter as much too you will want to run at higher temperatures.
I suggest you start a thread and then invite a few people by e.g. @Funk junky or and @damien50 as good etiquette and listen people here are there to help so remember everyone makes mistakes. Not saying you have just trying to figure out what’s happening in your grow:)
( heard this/suggested from random sources ) I guess if you have a mild iron deficency plant at the end of its cycle ( it will yield more ) than having more iron or what your suppose to be feeding it? I never tried to make my plants “ iron def “ and did a compare but I have heard that on a few boards and a few pod coast and growers that view point .I read a very informative article about overfeeding P and/or K, as well as everyone's favorite, Cal-Mag. The interplay between too much Potassium and the resulting inability of the plants to take up Nitrogen was very interesting, since it fit the bill for a lot of growers who are seeing yellowing leaves after using a fairly strong blooming potion. There was also info about Manganese (I think) causing Calcium to be un-available and causing signs of deficiencies, while the problem is actually from overdosing on something else. The Ph range was surprisingly narrow, with levels lower than 6.0 causing problems. With everyone keeping their Ph pretty close to the 6.0 level, it isn't surprising that these problems pop up. Of course, alkaline soil is also problematic but seem to be less likely than an acidic medium... plus many nutes are acidic and can contribute to these issues. I couldn't find the URL for the article, but I found it researching NPK usage under various conditions. It's a LOT more complicated that I really thought, and actually makes diagnosing problems more difficult, since a simple N deficiency might actually be from too much P or K in the soil, compounded by Ph dependent reactions.
This doesn't really apply to your current step in this process, it was just an offshoot of considering yellowing leaves and dried/burnt leaf tips and it kind of went from there. One thing I did pick up was that it is best to go easy on nutrients unless you either really know what you are doing, or that you have the ability to determine Micro and Macro nutrients. I've come to the conclusion that it's almost impossible to correctly diagnose something without decent lab type equipment, since any particular symptom can have a half dozen possible causes in addition to the obvious ones.
OK... enough for random, stoned thoughts. It gets hard to keep focused enough to make whatever point I started off trying to make.:cool:
I never heard about an Iron deficiency improving the harvest, but it will probably cut back on the chlorophyll! I always thought Iron was a great addition but stranger things have happened. It's sort of like the equivalent of a Cannabis Urban Legend... I don't understand why people think their plants grow better when stressed, other than producing hermaphrodites. Stranger stuff has happened, though. After reading thru the text, it makes it harder to guess on what the problems might be, since just about any condition can be caused by just about anything in excess or deficiency. I try to provide everything that they might need, but in lower doses than recommended. It's a lot easier to cure a deficiency than to try to cure an excess... or even figure out what the problem might be, if any.( heard this/suggested from random sources ) I guess if you have a mild iron deficency plant at the end of its cycle ( it will yield more ) than having more iron or what your suppose to be feeding it? I never tried to make my plants “ iron def “ and did a compare but I have heard that on a few boards and a few pod coast and growers that view point .
I’m sure there’s a lot of nutes just like that, just like you were talking about, if you go over board ( your fucked )at that certain time , so if anything save the cash and underfeed in a tank and dry feed the more agreessive fert wanting plants ( that’s my technique) & top feed every 2 weeks till last 3-4 weeks of bloom
I read a very informative article about overfeeding P and/or K, as well as everyone's favorite, Cal-Mag. The interplay between too much Potassium and the resulting inability of the plants to take up Nitrogen was very interesting, since it fit the bill for a lot of growers who are seeing yellowing leaves after using a fairly strong blooming potion. There was also info about Manganese (I think) causing Calcium to be un-available and causing signs of deficiencies, while the problem is actually from overdosing on something else. The Ph range was surprisingly narrow, with levels lower than 6.0 causing problems. With everyone keeping their Ph pretty close to the 6.0 level, it isn't surprising that these problems pop up. Of course, alkaline soil is also problematic but seem to be less likely than an acidic medium... plus many nutes are acidic and can contribute to these issues. I couldn't find the URL for the article, but I found it researching NPK usage under various conditions. It's a LOT more complicated that I really thought, and actually makes diagnosing problems more difficult, since a simple N deficiency might actually be from too much P or K in the soil, compounded by Ph dependent reactions.
This doesn't really apply to your current step in this process, it was just an offshoot of considering yellowing leaves and dried/burnt leaf tips and it kind of went from there. One thing I did pick up was that it is best to go easy on nutrients unless you either really know what you are doing, or that you have the ability to determine Micro and Macro nutrients. I've come to the conclusion that it's almost impossible to correctly diagnose something without decent lab type equipment, since any particular symptom can have a half dozen possible causes in addition to the obvious ones.
OK... enough for random, stoned thoughts. It gets hard to keep focused enough to make whatever point I started off trying to make.:cool:
It is good for your ph to fluctuate as different nutes have different uptake ranges and I don’t think you get every nute if you’re ph is dead same. Think the it’s only a couple of points in either direction though. Always better to underfed some people think more feed the better easier to treat a deficiency than wait for a plant to right itself after overfert. I always like to give a flush some where mid flower just to clean her out.I don't generally believe pk boosters are necessary if everything is done correctly. I've used them once but even my worst grows still yielded well. Though I am interested in primordial solutions terp germ but $63 a bottle for a flowering foliar applicator is high. I'm considering it my organic ebb and flow with pure blend pro, liquid karma, and sea green but I don't know yet. The medium I have the clones in retains so much water that I'm not even concerned with the cost of nutrients nearly as much as with coco.
I also don't like pushing until burn especially with all I've learned about microbes I find it questionable and would rather under feed than over feed. I like to let my ph go from 5.5 to 6.2 rather than a static ph. Indoor growing provides quite a bit of control but that is a double edged sword.
That's pretty much what mine did..I mentioned that I was so new to Sativas I thought she was not getting enough food..I was wrong and the shedding was normal..It will accelerate from here..I don't remember exactly when since I had a lot going on here at the time (major PM outbreak again..pffft)@Buzzer777 @Jimster
Just wanting to make sure that these sativas shedding fan leaves and non viable colas is normal. Upper leaves are a nice dark green but the yellowing is still going up. Never seen this before but I'm not willing to add N unless it's a problem.
@Buzzer777 when did you end up with no leaves on your Malawi x Panama?
Looks like a nice problem to have lol:fire:Day 42 - 7th Week of Flowering
Coco coir - 1140ppm/5.9 ph
Jack's FeED 5-12-26/Growpito enzymes and microbes
78-84f Leaf Surface Temp - Night Time Temps 62-68f
60-65% RH
4" Light Height
I stopped the excessive yellowing and #3 is going to be a yielder. #2 isn't really fattening and to have been they most vigorous is the most disappointing. If the smoke is right it will be between #'s 1/2/4/5/6. The cold temps have brought out a lot of oranges and reds in the pistils of the more mature plants.
Not a lot of pictures. Mothers are doing great in the Growpito with the same nutrients and a foliar.
Clones have roots to the bottom of the 5 gallon buckets and are doing quite well. I've cropped them once for training and because their height was more than I wanted. Over my past and current grow I've come to notice that thin, spindly stems don't produce anything unfortunately.
With the clones I've tied them down and fimmed to let lower branches develop height, I'm thinking 12", and ill have them circle the buckets to start an even canopy. I'll fim them at 12" and them down. Hopefully I can get more thick stems than thin ones with more nodes than what I've accomplished this first run. I figured with a 8-10 week veg I'll have enough time to prune weaker branches and be able to transition into flower immediately without the problems I've had this grow.
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That's pretty much what mine did..I mentioned that I was so new to Sativas I thought she was not getting enough food..I was wrong and the shedding was normal..It will accelerate from here..I don't remember exactly when since I had a lot going on here at the time (major PM outbreak again..pffft)
My grow has gotten away from me from a combination of Sativa's and Indicas that are difficult to control, since some are tall/lanky, some are short, some bushy, etc. I have to stay on top of it in addition to topping/splitting/fimming by removing some of the individual leaves that block light to bud sites uder them. I know it is a lot of work trying to keep all growing bud sites growing, but the difference in yield and size of buds is notable. I used an earlier picture of an excellent grow, but circled (in red) the individual leaves that I would remove, especially at the tops of the buds. The buds swell nicely under the areas that the larger fan leaves blocked the light, since the bud's size seems directly proportionate to how much light it gets.
Please excuse the use of the photo...please let me know ASAP if you wish it to be removed. This is only for an illustration of what I usually do to keep things as productive as possible without getting a canopy that is so thick that nothing can grow under it, lowering the potential yield.
Looks like a nice problem to have lol:fire:
I feel you brother got fly low these ends, in the rare times I run indi next to sat dom I put pots under the indica. But normally it’s a sat Dom run then indica run.That's pretty much what mine did..I mentioned that I was so new to Sativas I thought she was not getting enough food..I was wrong and the shedding was normal..It will accelerate from here..I don't remember exactly when since I had a lot going on here at the time (major PM outbreak again..pffft)
i miss that when the challenge arises and you know you have to knuckle down and make it work :)Well that is good to know. These next few weeks are going to be interesting
You're good man. I appreciate it, as far as I'm concerned I'm still a novice grower, and ill use that pic for reference tonight
It is an incredibly sticky situation lol
Nice indoor jungle beautiful flowersDay 35 - 6th Week of Flowering
Coco coir - 780ppm/5.7 ph
Jack's FeED 5-12-26/Growpito enzymes and microbes
73-84f Leaf Surface Temp
60-65% RH
32762~lux/720~ PPFD 3000k Average
4" Light Height
11/13
And here we go!
#1 and #3 are starting to bud up real fine. The mothers are doing beautifully and those clones are still adjusting and probably developing root mass for the prosperity of my future jungle.
I've sampled #2 and #4. I regret nothing. Sampling the twins and #5 tonight. Nothing but energy, happy vibes, and goodness
The EB2's are killing it and at 502 watts I'll be stealing my wife's 555 watt lights in the future for the sake of growing perpetual bud that she smokes. It's a kindness.
Let's get to the pictures and thank you kindly to those following this grow.
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