De Bulbs Frying Plants!

[Kronikcowboy]

How much AC do you players schedule for remote ballast de bulb grows per fixture ?

 

[Kronikcowboy]

Ps ive seen chron's grows and he's got one of the greenest thumbs on the farm imo

 

[fishwhistle]

How much AC do you players schedule for remote ballast de bulb grows per fixture ?

I use cannabis johns numbers and allow 6ooo per 1k.

 

[Chrondondalae]

I use cannabis johns numbers and allow 6ooo per 1k.

I'm with you on this one. I've done 5 tons per 12k in the past and 5ton's per 10k works much better all around.

 

[toquer]

I've got gavuta 750's. So five feet bulb to bulb over the length of the bulb. Now if you have two rows of them how far are they end to end? I think mine are a bit close. I think there is only like 3 feet between the lights. End to end. Ballasts are both facing the wall. Two rows of 7 covering 14x40. I'm going to measure from the center of the bulb and see.

 

[Offdarips]

They say 5 ft end to end starting the next row and 6ft center bulb to bulb in the same row.

 

[Herb Forester]

Are you guys orienting the fixtures like in these pics from @Texas Kid 's Funkytown thread? DSCN0034.JPG DSCN0037.JPG Or the other way? Like I think Gavita suggests?

I'm installing mine now and think maybe I'm confused on the reflector vs lamp footprint. I'm probably wrong but what I'm seeing on the floor doesn't match what I think Gavita is saying here?:confused:

Thank you for your interest in our products. When calculating the number of fixtures required to light your crop you need to take the following into consideration:

1. When we light a room, we always light a complete room. This is the only way to create uniform light levels in your room. It is not recommended to only put lamps above your plants.

2. There is a minimal distance between the lamp and the crop. For 600W this is 60cm/2 ft, for 750W this is 70 cm / 2 ft 4 inch, for 1000W this is 90 cm / 3 ft. In larger rooms with many overlapping lights the optimal distance is often even a bit further away.

3. The reflectivity of your walls is a crucial factor. The lower the reflectivity of the walls, the lower the average light levels and the lower the uniformity. Walls have a bigger influence in a smaller room. We recommend to use high reflective material such as orca film of >90%.

4. Because of the influence of the walls the uniformity of the light near the walls is always lower. When we calculate the quality of the light as in uniformity % (min/avg) we always calculate a surface at 20-50cm from the walls (depending on the size of the room).

5. We calculate with 1000 umol m-2 s-1 for the generative phase (flowering, 12 hours cycle) and 670 umol m-2 s-1 for the vegetative phase (18 hours veg cycle). This is because your plants get 50% more light in the vegetative phase because you light them 18 hours instead of 12. The daily light integral (DLI, total amount of light the plants get per day) stays the same this way.

6. When combining plasma light to HPS we recommend a minimum of 1 LEP fixture per 600W HPS in veg, and minimum of 1 LEP fixture per 1200W in the flowering phase. More LEP will increase the quality of your crop.

7. In most cases the dimensions of a room are not ideal for the footprints of the lamps. Therefor most rooms have a different "sweet spot" for the lamps. In general though you should hang your lamps in-line, with the centers of the lamps between 90 cm and 110 cm apart. The distance between the rows is between 1.8 and 2.3 meters. The distance between the rows and the walls should be less than half the distance between your rows: when the rows are 2 m apart the ideal distance from the walls is likely to be 80 cm or less. At the head and tail of the rows the lamps should be really close to the walls (30-40 cm to the center of the lamp). This is because a HPS fixture always has a wide footprint.

I attached for you a sample calculation and a calculation spreadsheet to calculate how many lights you need, and if the dimensions of your room are sufficient for this lighting.

Best regards, met vriendelijke groet,​

 

[Herb Forester]

For relevance I probably should have just posted #7 above

 

[toquer]

I have mine the way they are in the photos you attached. However, my ballasts are both facing the wall or are on the outside of the row if you could say it that way.

As for how #7 states it, I'm still confused. Need to determine how they are speaking of orientation. Head to tail of the rows. So they get the ballast side, the two ends that get electricity? Or the side of the bulb? I figured the overlap came from side to side.

 

[Texas Kid]

The lights in those pics are oriented the way Gavita suggest and are mounted on roughly 6' center..Gavita, Epap, and Nanolux recommend that you mount the fixtures perpendicular to the tables/plant rows so you get the full benefit of the lighting array from the bulbs. That gives you the most intense overlap between fixtures. All of my rooms have 10' and 12' ceiling hieghts and I usually fix mount the lights as high as I can...I only run them at 1000w also, not the 1150w of gavita or the 1200w of the Nanolux maxed out.

I have my Nanolux DE's mounted on 4' centers in some rooms and 5' centers in others..plants will definately hiccup the first week of transition under the DE bulbs, especially is you are coming from T5 or 400w mh..the light is just way too intense..if your coming out of a 1000w mh veg room its not near as bad..48"+ canopy clearance is a must, especially in the first week or so.

We figure 4100-4500 btu's per 1000 DE fixture and 3500btu's for the 750w DE fixture..

 

[fishwhistle]

Gavita had me run the ballasts OPPOSITE of what TKs picture showed in my lighting plan,when i questioned them about it lighting the tables better side to side instead of end to end they gave me the old speech of ''you never light a table,you light a room'',I tried it that way but i like it better with TKs orientation now.

 

[Texas Kid]

I agree that when you hang the lights "high bay" that your lighting the room and not the tables and orientation isn't as critical..but running the most intense part of the light array right down my plant rows makes more since and works better for me and that is how it is recommended...I have lighting diagrams that Gavita and Wazzup sent me with big black "X's on the configurations where the lights were end to end down the plant rows..Nanolux gives ,e a 5.5' x 5.5 footprint, pretty much square but way more intense on the overlap when running with the array of the bulb, Gavitas give me a roughly 4'x6' footprint with way more overlap intensity on the array length or 6' rn of the light...I don't like my overlap strength to be on my isle, I like it on the plants..if your running roller benches with a floating isle its alot less critical because you are light the entire square footage of the room so there is no dead space but if you have fixed 2' isles your overlap ends up being on your dead space isle area and not on the plants

 

[sixstring]

I agree that when you hang the lights "high bay" that your lighting the room and not the tables and orientation isn't as critical..but running the most intense part of the light array right down my plant rows makes more since and works better for me and that is how it is recommended...I have lighting diagrams that Gavita and Wazzup sent me with big black "X's on the configurations where the lights were end to end down the plant rows..Nanolux gives ,e a 5.5' x 5.5 footprint, pretty much square but way more intense on the overlap when running with the array of the bulb, Gavitas give me a roughly 4'x6' footprint with way more overlap intensity on the array length or 6' rn of the light...I don't like my overlap strength to be on my isle, I like it on the plants..if your running roller benches with a floating isle its alot less critical because you are light the entire square footage of the room so there is no dead space but if you have fixed 2' isles your overlap ends up being on your dead space isle area and not on the plants

So would you suggest lining them up end to end (opposite of your setups in pics) for lighting a room 18 x 22 where the plants are more tree or shrub like and can also be moved around if necessary? I assume yes based on your last few posts.my 6/750 have a definite rectangular footprint so i could see them having awesome overlap on a 4 x whatever table if hung in the manner you have yours.i was planning 3 rows of 4 gavita in the 18 x 22 with some 600w mh in the 4 corners and 4 more spread evenly in between the gavitas in the center of the room.

 

[fishwhistle]

I have 3-750s over each 4x12 table now oriented like TKs and its working very well,I think i could almost get away with using 2-750s over the same area if i threw a 315cmh between them in some sort of parabolic reflector.The 750s seem to throw about a 4x5 footprint for me.

 

[Herb Forester]

After hanging a few I came to the same conclusions as you guys. Gavitra's plan assumed no aisles, or I didn't specify anyway. Depending on your floor plan I could see good arguments for either orientation. Mine are on 5' centers for now but the unistrut is easy to adjust each light row. I gapped them ~1' end to end since I'm adding 315s between the plant rows. I don't have a light meter but Gavita's advice on perimeter placement to account for wall loss looks right to my eyes.

 

[advanced396]

I agree that when you hang the lights "high bay" that your lighting the room and not the tables and orientation isn't as critical..but running the most intense part of the light array right down my plant rows makes more since and works better for me and that is how it is recommended...I have lighting diagrams that Gavita and Wazzup sent me with big black "X's on the configurations where the lights were end to end down the plant rows..Nanolux gives ,e a 5.5' x 5.5 footprint, pretty much square but way more intense on the overlap when running with the array of the bulb, Gavitas give me a roughly 4'x6' footprint with way more overlap intensity on the array length or 6' rn of the light...I don't like my overlap strength to be on my isle, I like it on the plants..if your running roller benches with a floating isle its alot less critical because you are light the entire square footage of the room so there is no dead space but if you have fixed 2' isles your overlap ends up being on your dead space isle area and not on the plants

We have a two rooms that are 23 x 25 with 16 Epaps in each room on 68" bulb to bulb centers and

 

[advanced396]

I agree that when you hang the lights "high bay" that your lighting the room and not the tables and orientation isn't as critical..but running the most intense part of the light array right down my plant rows makes more since and works better for me and that is how it is recommended...I have lighting diagrams that Gavita and Wazzup sent me with big black "X's on the configurations where the lights were end to end down the plant rows..Nanolux gives ,e a 5.5' x 5.5 footprint, pretty much square but way more intense on the overlap when running with the array of the bulb, Gavitas give me a roughly 4'x6' footprint with way more overlap intensity on the array length or 6' rn of the light...I don't like my overlap strength to be on my isle, I like it on the plants..if your running roller benches with a floating isle its alot less critical because you are light the entire square footage of the room so there is no dead space but if you have fixed 2' isles your overlap ends up being on your dead space isle area and not on the plants

We have two rooms that are 23x 25 , 11.5 ft ceilings with 16 Epaps in each room on 68" bulb to bulb center and from row to row 65 " with 5 ton of Ac in each room. The coldest we can get the room is 77 degrees. Which leaves us with a leaf temp of 81 degrees when the trees reach 5 ft tall. We have had issues with light bleaching on the trees. Do you think we have to many lights? We were thinking about taking 2 to 4 lights out of each room and putting the lights on 6.5 ft centers.
So can you veg with the Epaps or do you recomend vegging with MH 1000?

 

[toquer]

I veg in 16x16 with 4 600w SE Gavitas at the corners and 4 315w CMH in between them in a + arrangement. The gavitas alone make the plant require P earlier. I may swap the two light types so the LEC's are on the corners.

 

[Texas Kid]

When lighting a square room with plants laid out evenly for the most part it doesn't matter witch way you run then, your going to get pretty much a full coverage foot print...its when you have distinct rows with walkways or isles that the orientation becomes a bigger deal

I also really like using co2 in gavi/epap/nano rooms, the extra light ramps up the plants so much that you really see the benefit of the co2 plus you can run the rooms hotter and cut down on your cycle times on the ac...with co2 I run the rooms at 83-85 degrees which really saves the ac from beating itself to death..nute use also needs to be ramped up or the plants always look hungry

Very nice setup Advanced, that's gonna kick ass...

 

[advanced396]

Tex
Do you think we have to many lights or do you think we have to space them out more?