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DWC Plants Dying Please Help

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DWC Plants Dying Please Help

TheOhmOne 281 Replies 44,474 Views
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I like using the garden fencing that's painted green and has 2x3-in squares. You can lay out four branches north south east and west, top them at three and then three again and it will fill out perfectly. It's also much more sturdy than netting so when you're bending a branch it holds itself rather than having to tie a bunch of stuff down. Not that the nettings bad or wrong I just did it different and got great results.
Q
On the very rare occasion that I go indoor scrog, I use a cattle panel that I sprayed down with this NSF rated rubber compound stuff. Comes in black and white, heat tolerant, mold resistant, strong as hell and wont rust. Weird but I always overbuild. When the grow is done, pressure wash it and toss it in the barn until next time.
 
Can you explain what what goes into your res throughout a grow? And how you typically do top offs?
Also, how frequently are you cleaning the res out ?
Thanx for your time

Its pretty simple and nothing special , I run to a level on a dip stick that I check how much they use every 24 hrs generally its about 70 ltrs for 8 plants and I top the tank back to that level and add nutrient to bring it back up to the right values daily, I start a grow at about 300 ppm and run that through veg, in flower I raise it 50ppm every week and top out around 650 ppm, I add 150ml hydrosil every 3 days from day one. I just use H/G Aqua Flakes nothing else .

Because my water volume is big 800lts I dont dump the lot I bleed off 500-600 ltrs every 7 days and top up with fresh water and set PH CF values and go another week as above and that cycle goes all grow.

When I clean res at the end I just hose out the system with clean water fill her up with water and dose with a 100ppm Hydrosil wait for it to drop to 50ppm generally a day maybe 2 and load her up with new plants and do it all over again, been great with no problems and plants are spot on with not a blemish anywhere .
 
I like using the garden fencing that's painted green and has 2x3-in squares. You can lay out four branches north south east and west, top them at three and then three again and it will fill out perfectly. It's also much more sturdy than netting so when you're bending a branch it holds itself rather than having to tie a bunch of stuff down. Not that the nettings bad or wrong I just did it different and got great results.
Q

Yessir, looking for something more secure, and user friendly. Lifting the lids with multiple plants and a ScrOG atleast 4x4’ is a pain in the ass I’ll tell ya!!
 
On the very rare occasion that I go indoor scrog, I use a cattle panel that I sprayed down with this NSF rated rubber compound stuff. Comes in black and white, heat tolerant, mold resistant, strong as hell and wont rust. Weird but I always overbuild. When the grow is done, pressure wash it and toss it in the barn until next time.

Do you have any recommendations on how to attach a 4x4 screen to the Res lid , as to make it easier when lifting to check on things?

I guess RDWC eliminates this, but I feel like if you run into any sort of issue it becomes a lot more difficult to check on individual plants when they are all attached to one screen? Likewise, how often are RDWC systems clogging or flooding due to root size ?


A large Part of why I grow Is related to DWC and root development. Once I got my first bucket FULL of sparkly white roots, I was hooked.
I’m sure there is more efficient ways to run it, but this is a hobby for me, not a job

Not only does yield and top quality flowers interest me. Root size is just as fun to play with. That’s why I try to go larger size Res, and I honestly think I can go bigger.

I of course have to balance myself lol, I need yield, dank, and root development.

Moral is... I like big roots 😂
 
Its pretty simple and nothing special , I run to a level on a dip stick that I check how much they use every 24 hrs generally its about 70 ltrs for 8 plants and I top the tank back to that level and add nutrient to bring it back up to the right values daily, I start a grow at about 300 ppm and run that through veg, in flower I raise it 50ppm every week and top out around 650 ppm, I add 150ml hydrosil every 3 days from day one. I just use H/G Aqua Flakes nothing else .

Because my water volume is big 800lts I dont dump the lot I bleed off 500-600 ltrs every 7 days and top up with fresh water and set PH CF values and go another week as above and that cycle goes all grow.

When I clean res at the end I just hose out the system with clean water fill her up with water and dose with a 100ppm Hydrosil wait for it to drop to 50ppm generally a day maybe 2 and load her up with new plants and do it all over again, been great with no problems and plants are spot on with not a blemish anywhere .

Awesome! Thank you for explaining that! That’s pretty similar to how things go here.

How long have you used the hydrosil for ?

I was contemplating running AquaFlakes in the larger Res, do you think I’d be good removing 90% of the volume and then adding a fresh batch with the new nutrient line?

I’m currently at only 150ppms
6 step, UV treated RO water: 0 ppms
1:2 ratio of GH Micro and Bloom: 100 ppms
.5ml per gallon of Cal-Mag: 50 ppms
2ml per gallon of Hydroguard
5ml total ph down
 
Hydrogen peroxide will whiten those roots up nicely

I just ran h202 with the last attempt and it looks like that caused some of the issues I was running with the ANSensi line.

I am going to try Hydroguard for the 1st time this run. Not sure why all the sudden I need too though.

I’ve never had to run h202 or Hydroguard or bennies, always just keep water below 68f and all was well.
 
First off for any beginner grower hydro is the most advanced style of growing. Ph control is the most important. If you don’t have 2 meters how are you to know when the ph is truly off. A second meter will fix an confusion.
 

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First off for any beginner grower hydro is the most advanced style of growing. Ph control is the most important. If you don’t have 2 meters how are you to know when the ph is truly off. A second meter will fix an confusion.
First off for any beginner grower hydro is the most advanced style of growing. Ph control is the most important. If you don’t have 2 meters how are you to know when the ph is truly off. A second meter will fix an confusion.

What do you mean exactly ?

Do you use 2 meters in the same Res to cross reference during the whole grow ?
 
Current status

Checked on rockwool and is remaining moist at current height in netpot.

I always feel when I get clones with this little root development, that it significantly slows everything down for the 1st week or so.

Should I have them in a cloner when this underdeveloped?
 

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Should I have them in a cloner when this underdeveloped?
They have just the right amount of roots to be in the dwc. There is no situation I can think of where you would need to put an already rooted rockwool clone into anything other than its final netpot/system. I mostly clone with aero and dwc cloners but when I use rockwool with clones or seeds I always transplant as soon as I see a few good roots poke through the bottom and sides of the cube.
 
They have just the right amount of roots to be in the dwc. There is no situation I can think of where you would need to put an already rooted rockwool clone into anything other than its final netpot/system. I mostly clone with aero and dwc cloners but when I use rockwool with clones or seeds I always transplant as soon as I see a few good roots poke through the bottom and sides of the cube.

Cool thanx for the feedback 4th. I want to move away from rockwool.

I’m also already getting a brown ring around the Res water line again. Do you find this normal when plants are not rooted and developed well enough?

I’m Likely going to change our water before roots emerge, since I will be switching from GH to AquaFlakes in the 150L.
 
Cool thanx for the feedback 4th. I want to move away from rockwool.

I’m also already getting a brown ring around the Res water line again. Do you find this normal when plants are not rooted and developed well enough?

I’m Likely going to change our water before roots emerge, since I will be switching from GH to AquaFlakes in the 150L.
Brown ring is likely hydroton sediment and/or microbes.
 
Great clip that illustrates how thin this buildup is, about halfway though you can see water drip onto it.
 

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What do you mean exactly ?

Do you use 2 meters in the same Res to cross reference during the whole grow ?
Yes I do. I started out with one like everyone else but I was noticing damage due to my ph being off and got a second to be sure my ph was right on. It’s alittle more money to buy two but we’ll worth it in the end. There is no second guessing yourself. Some guys don’t care too much about being too precise about ph but it shows in the growth of the plant.
 
Great clip that illustrates how thin this buildup is, about halfway though you can see water drip onto it.
That buildup is from your nutes and nothing to worry about as long as it doesn’t build up more.
 
Yes I do. I started out with one like everyone else but I was noticing damage due to my ph being off and got a second to be sure my ph was right on. It’s alittle more money to buy two but we’ll worth it in the end. There is no second guessing yourself. Some guys don’t care too much about being too precise about ph but it shows in the growth of the plant.

So the funny thing is, before your input, I had already purchased the TrolMaster PH and PPM probes and controller for In line Res.

They arrived today, and sad to announce. I have a hydroX controller not an AquaX controller.

I had purchased the AMP-2 Board and PPH1 and PCT1 but they are not compatible with hydroX

Sadly, the spot I purchased from does not accept Returns.

I guess my only option is to purchase the AquaX.



Any advice on optimizing the TrolMaster software/hardware to really get the most out of the money I have forked over towards the Trol.

I’m curious if anyone has any first hand experience on the ins and outs of the TrolMaster System.

I do understand this is a little much for hobbyist level grower, but I do appreciate all the feedback

Today really got me thinking what type of system would really be best for me personally.

How do I fully utilize the Trol Master controllers?

How can I grow to still fit my needs:

Hydro
Multi strain
Indica/Hybrid only
High quality dense, flowers
Root development
Fully automated besides the variables I change
 

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What function do those PVC pipes in the corners serve? Looks like a clear pathway to allow light into your rootzone.

I’m sorry I’m not sure what exactly you are referring too.

I have just checked last night, and I’m not so certain the lid itself is 100% light proof. It’s extremely hard to tell.
 
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