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Epsilon v2 Plan, 6g per watt goal

One of the LEDs I have come across claims 3.4 µmol/j, and it is a 300w. If all envirmental factors are dialed. You can utilize all 3.4. and with my experience, each strain has different capabilities of yield, in the same environment. And with genetic...
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Epsilon v2 Plan, 6g per watt goal

by DrDankHands · Started
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One of the LEDs I have come across claims 3.4 µmol/j, and it is a 300w. If all envirmental factors are dialed. You can utilize all 3.4. and with my experience, each strain has different capabilities of yield, in the same environment. And with genetic crossing and breeding, there are heavy yielding strains being bred all the time. Everything is a possibility if you are willing to make it one.
 
Quick update on Epsilon v2, we’re now deep into late flower and tracking toward final harvest windows.
A few people asked for an honest breakdown of how things have gone since the start, so here it is.
Life happened: I was away for a month
I had a friend looking after the tent during a really critical period. And while he kept everything alive (which I honestly appreciate, because there’s nobody else I would have trusted with the knowledge), a few issues cropped up:
1. He misread the feeding notes and gave way too much silica
As a result, a huge amount of energy got redirected into:
•thicker stems
•structural growth
•rigidity
•slower bud initiation on certain strains
It didn’t kill anything, but it definitely changed the overall development pattern and delayed stacking on some plants.
2. I’m almost certain there were some very late waterings
Looking at the AC Infinity humidity data, the dips and spikes line up with missed drybacks.
So again, nothing catastrophic, but not what I would’ve done.
3. No real canopy management for a full month
No pruning, no shaping, no defoliation, so the canopy didn’t get the refinement Epsilon v1 had.
4. My irrigation system was a write-off
I had to switch to hand-watering because the pump I bought was powerful enough but way too loud for regular use.
Hours of work so far
People keep asking how much time has gone into this.
From startup until now:
•~3 hours to build/setup the system
•~1 hour per week on average
•~12 hours total labour for the entire run
That includes:
•watering
•refilling the reservoir
•trimming and de-leafing
•occasional adjustments
It’s genuinely low-effort because the living soil + root-bridging does half the work on its own.
🌱 Strain count: 7 instead of 6
Three seeds never germinated early on, so I late-germinated replacements, which is why I ended up running 7 strains instead of 6 in the 6×6 grid.
Surprisingly, the ecosystem let the younger plants catch up in structure without any serious mismatch.
🌿 The “mutant” late-flowering plant
One plant is only now entering proper flower.
It’s not a photoperiod mix-up, it’s a genuine autoflower mutation where the internal timer is delayed.
It’ll finish noticeably later than the rest, but it’s stable and healthy, so it’ll just be my final late finisher.
🔥 Projected yield
Based on visual mass, density, and current averages:
I’m estimating ≈1.0-1.1 kg dry
This is below what Epsilon v2 could’ve hit with:
•correct feeding while I was away
•proper canopy management
•correct dryback timing
•better pruning
•consistent irrigation
But given everything that happened, I’m very happy with the trajectory.
🌕 Harvest plan
Because the strains matured at slightly different speeds (thanks to genetics + the inconsistent month), I’m looking at:
A rolling harvest over about 3 weeks
The early-finishers → the mid-pack → the late-flowering mutant.
I’ll post the numbers and break everything down once each stage is done.
📸 Pics below
IMG 20251123 210034
IMG 20251123 210109
IMG 20251123 210230
IMG 20251123 210014

If anyone wants details on the soil network, environmental control, or the 6×6 grid logic, I’m happy to answer questions.
 
I am really loving all the information, it's hard to find someone who actually can display and keep record of what they are doing and it working out in their favor. When I hear people claiming they get over 3gs/w I have to see it for myself, usually because people make unreasonable claims for whatever reason they have. But you good sir absolutely got what it takes to make that a reality. And I seen a comment about smoking 10lbs a year being crazy, but that's not to terribly much if you use it for other things like extracts and things like that, also if you share with friends/family. Smoking it alone you would have to be smoking blunts back to back. My personal use is about an ounce every three to four days. So that's what I grow to cover plus extra for emergency or rainy day supply. Anyway I applaud you for your grow. I haven't used the brand you use for inoculating, I use dynomyco. Do you have any experience with dynomyco?
Thanks a lot for the kind words, genuinely appreciate it.
I try to document everything as clearly as I can because like you said, most big claims online usually fall apart when you look for the details. I’m a big believer in transparency and repeatability, so I try to keep records of everything, good or bad.

And yeah, your perspective is spot on, a few grams per watt isn’t magic if the environmental system, genetics, and biology all line up. The hard part is keeping everything stable enough for long enough.

As for microbial inoculants:

I haven’t used Dynomyco personally, but I’ve heard consistently good things about it from a lot of people. In my case I’ve mainly used Mammoth P (now sold as Microbial Mass Pro) and Continuum by Impello Biosciences. They’ve both treated me well in terms of root development and nutrient cycling, but I’m always interested in comparing different microbial blends because they all approach the biology a little differently.

I’ll definitely look into Dynomyco more, I like products that focus on strong, reliable mycorrhizal colonisation, so it’s right up my alley.
Appreciate you taking the time to comment
 
am i the only one thinking this is all impossible? Nice pic, but 4 g/W is science fiction. Physics disagrees. Impressive canopy, but let’s be real — 4–6 g/W from a 300 W LED is pure fantasy land. Even NASA’s plant labs can’t break 2 g/W with full CO₂ and perfect conditions. Looks great though, just not physically possible at that efficiency. 😉
I don’t blame you for thinking that, most people only ever see g/W numbers in the 1-2 range because they benchmark from traditional grows or from fixed “test environments” that aren’t trying to maximise total system efficiency.

The thing is, grams-per-watt isn’t a fundamental law of physics, it’s an outcome of the whole system, not just the LED’s photon output.
Two people can run the same wattage and get completely different numbers because g/W is influenced by:

how many plants you’re running
how the canopy is structured
how much the root-zone does on its own
how much of the tent’s footprint is productive
how much energy is wasted vs captured
how efficient the overall environment is

Not the details, just the system concept.

Also, NASA’s tests aren’t a good benchmark because their experiments are focused on plant physiology under specific stresses, not crop-efficiency scaling. They’re not running high-density SOG grids, they’re running sparse research arrays.

If someone only ever runs one big plant or a loose canopy, they will never break 1-2 g/W, even with perfect conditions.
If someone runs a very tight, very efficient grid where “empty space” is almost zero, the wattage supports far more productive nodes.

So I get the skepticism, most people don’t run systems that make high g/W mathematically possible.
But physics doesn’t forbid it.
It just requires the system to be built around efficiency instead of tradition.

I’m not claiming fantasy numbers, just reporting what’s happened so far and posting the progress publicly so people can follow along and draw their own conclusions.
Appreciate the comment though, skepticism is healthy. 👍
 
This post is fantastic. This lovely gentleman is sharing what most people would keep secret. And for those of you just outright saying oh it's impossible well then you are in fact calling him a liar. He's already done it. With everything he said in the way he said it you think this guy's a liar. I would say definitely not. And just like any of the ceilings that we hit in different things like for instance running the mile. There was a barrier no one could beat it. Now we have blown past it and people continue to do it faster and faster.
I for one am extremely grateful for to DrDankHands for taking the time and effort to share this great knowledge.
Cheers 🥂
Thank you so much for that, genuinely.
I don’t expect everyone to believe the numbers, and skepticism is totally fair. Most people online make huge claims with no documentation, so I understand why people raise an eyebrow.

That’s exactly why I’m sharing everything openly this time around.
If something works, people can follow the logic.
If something fails, people can learn from that too.
There are no secrets here, just experimentation, record-keeping, and honest results.

And you’re absolutely right about ceilings. Every field has “impossible” numbers until someone shows that the limit wasn’t physics, it was approach. All I’m trying to do is show what’s happening in real time so people can see the journey, good and bad.

Really appreciate your positive outlook and the kind words.
Cheers to you too. 🥂
 
And you’re absolutely right about ceilings. Every field has “impossible” numbers until someone shows that the limit wasn’t physics, it was approach. All I’m trying to do is show what’s happening in real time so people can see the journey, good and bad.
👏 👏 👏 👏 👏
 
Are you using an organic soil mix?
Yeah Im using living soil with these for my mycology.
IMG 20251126 140649
IMG 20251126 140707

I don't think what I am doing would be possible without these little beauties.

If you have any questions or suggestions, don't hesitate.

🕉️
 
I forgot to mention there is 1 mutant, with a much longer vedge time that the rest, that's the risk of using autoflowers.
This is her from yesterday
IMG 20251125 205607

She will end up in the tent all alone for a couple weeks, which is bloody annoying and extraordinarily wasteful.
Contemplating planting 35 others with it and doing a second run. But I really don't need that much bud😂
Thoughts?
🕉️
 
❄️ Protocol Update: Cryo-Cure & Staged Drying (Epsilon v2)
I have finalized the harvest and curing section of the Epsilon v2 Protocol to ensure maximum terpene retention and a complete chlorophyll breakdown, mitigating the risk of the dreaded 'hay smell' common in rushed drying. This new method is designed to manage the high volume of a staged harvest (projected ~5.5–6 kg wet) using minimal space and optimized climate control.
0) North-Star Metrics Refined
The ultimate quality metrics now include:
* Terpene Preservation: Cure temperature maintained at 15–16°C to inhibit volatilization of monoterpenes.
* Chlorophyll Breakdown: Slow, controlled evaporation to allow for full biological conversion of chlorophyll to non-volatile compounds.
* Staging: Ability to process 5–10 plants per rotation every two weeks within a single, compact system.
1) Cryo-Cure System Overview
| Component | Specification | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Unit | 24-Bottle Compressor Wine Fridge (£151.99) | Provides stable, low-temperature climate control for drying (15–16°C). |
| Drying Vessel | 12" Cardboard Pizza Boxes | Used immediately post-wet trim; absorbs moisture slowly, preventing wind burn damage and facilitating slow wicking/chlorophyll breakdown. |
| Air Filtration | 2x Mini Air Purifiers (Carbon Filters) | Placed inside the fridge to passively manage odor and maintain internal air quality/circulation. |
| Curing Vessel | Glass Jars (~10x10x30 cm) | Selected for perfect fit, allowing 3 jars per shelf for curing rotation post-drying. |
2) Protocol Advantage: Chemical & Biological Superiority
This method is implemented specifically to optimize the biochemical processes critical to final product quality, surpassing the results of conventional drying (which often suffers from high temperatures and rapid dehydration):
A. Monoterpene and Cannabinoid Preservation (Chemical)
* Low-Temperature Drying: The fridge maintains 15–16°C. Terpenes, especially monoterpenes like myrcene and pinene, are highly volatile and begin evaporating rapidly above 21°C. By dropping the temperature below 16°C, we significantly slow the rate of volatilization, thereby retaining a higher percentage and broader spectrum of the fragile aromatic compounds. This directly translates to a more potent and flavourful final product.
* Slower Oxidation: The cool temperature also slows the chemical degradation of cannabinoids (e.g., THCA converting to CBN), helping to lock in the desired profile.
B. Chlorophyll Conversion (Enzymatic/Biological)
* Chlorophyllase Activity: The slow, controlled evaporation achieved by the compressor fridge and the buffering from the pizza boxes prevents the rapid denaturing of chlorophyllase enzymes. These enzymes are responsible for breaking down the harsh, grassy-tasting chlorophyll pigments into non-volatile, odorless compounds.
* The Problem with Fast Drying: When buds are dried too quickly (common in open air or under high airflow), the internal moisture level drops too fast, denaturing the enzymes before they can finish their job. This traps the chlorophyll, leading to the undesirable "hay smell" and a harsh, green smoke.
* The Epsilon Solution: By maintaining high relative humidity (RH) and low temperature, the drying process is managed over a longer, critical period, maximizing enzymatic conversion for a smoother, cleaner, and more flavourful smoke.
3) Drying & Curing Flow
* Wet Trim & Load: Wet-trimmed bud is placed directly into the 12" pizza boxes. The flat cardboard structure wicks moisture away very slowly, controlling the humidity drop rate better than open air.
* Staged Drying: Up to two pizza boxes are placed per fridge shelf with a 1cm air gap. The fridge maintains the critical 15–16°C temperature, slowing water evaporation to ensure chlorophyll has sufficient time for complete biological breakdown, securing a far superior flavor profile.
* Rotation Logic: Drying is conducted in 5–10 plant batches, spaced two weeks apart. Once the first batch reaches the desired dry point (approx. 7–14 days), it is transferred to the glass jars within the same fridge for curing, freeing up the shelf space for the next wet-trimmed rotation.
* Curing: Jars are stored in the fridge at 15–16°C for the full cure.
* Burping Phase 1: Daily burping for the first one to two weeks.
* Burping Phase 2: Reduced to every 3–4 days for the subsequent week.
* Stabilization: Jars are sealed with humidity packs and tracked with hygrometers for long-term flavor and potency retention.

The estimated total equipment cost for this advanced drying and curing method is approximately £300.

This upgrade ensures the highest possible retention of cannabinoids and volatile mono-terpenes, complementing the high-efficiency yield of the Epsilon Protocol.
IMG 20251201 075015
IMG 20251201 074940
IMG 20251201 074857
Screenshot 20251130 073411
 
❄️ Protocol Update: Cryo-Cure & Staged Drying (Epsilon v2)
I have finalized the harvest and curing section of the Epsilon v2 Protocol to ensure maximum terpene retention and a complete chlorophyll breakdown, mitigating the risk of the dreaded 'hay smell' common in rushed drying. This new method is designed to manage the high volume of a staged harvest (projected ~5.5–6 kg wet) using minimal space and optimized climate control.
0) North-Star Metrics Refined
The ultimate quality metrics now include:
* Terpene Preservation: Cure temperature maintained at 15–16°C to inhibit volatilization of monoterpenes.
* Chlorophyll Breakdown: Slow, controlled evaporation to allow for full biological conversion of chlorophyll to non-volatile compounds.
* Staging: Ability to process 5–10 plants per rotation every two weeks within a single, compact system.
1) Cryo-Cure System Overview
| Component | Specification | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Unit | 24-Bottle Compressor Wine Fridge (£151.99) | Provides stable, low-temperature climate control for drying (15–16°C). |
| Drying Vessel | 12" Cardboard Pizza Boxes | Used immediately post-wet trim; absorbs moisture slowly, preventing wind burn damage and facilitating slow wicking/chlorophyll breakdown. |
| Air Filtration | 2x Mini Air Purifiers (Carbon Filters) | Placed inside the fridge to passively manage odor and maintain internal air quality/circulation. |
| Curing Vessel | Glass Jars (~10x10x30 cm) | Selected for perfect fit, allowing 3 jars per shelf for curing rotation post-drying. |
2) Protocol Advantage: Chemical & Biological Superiority
This method is implemented specifically to optimize the biochemical processes critical to final product quality, surpassing the results of conventional drying (which often suffers from high temperatures and rapid dehydration):
A. Monoterpene and Cannabinoid Preservation (Chemical)
* Low-Temperature Drying: The fridge maintains 15–16°C. Terpenes, especially monoterpenes like myrcene and pinene, are highly volatile and begin evaporating rapidly above 21°C. By dropping the temperature below 16°C, we significantly slow the rate of volatilization, thereby retaining a higher percentage and broader spectrum of the fragile aromatic compounds. This directly translates to a more potent and flavourful final product.
* Slower Oxidation: The cool temperature also slows the chemical degradation of cannabinoids (e.g., THCA converting to CBN), helping to lock in the desired profile.
B. Chlorophyll Conversion (Enzymatic/Biological)
* Chlorophyllase Activity: The slow, controlled evaporation achieved by the compressor fridge and the buffering from the pizza boxes prevents the rapid denaturing of chlorophyllase enzymes. These enzymes are responsible for breaking down the harsh, grassy-tasting chlorophyll pigments into non-volatile, odorless compounds.
* The Problem with Fast Drying: When buds are dried too quickly (common in open air or under high airflow), the internal moisture level drops too fast, denaturing the enzymes before they can finish their job. This traps the chlorophyll, leading to the undesirable "hay smell" and a harsh, green smoke.
* The Epsilon Solution: By maintaining high relative humidity (RH) and low temperature, the drying process is managed over a longer, critical period, maximizing enzymatic conversion for a smoother, cleaner, and more flavourful smoke.
3) Drying & Curing Flow
* Wet Trim & Load: Wet-trimmed bud is placed directly into the 12" pizza boxes. The flat cardboard structure wicks moisture away very slowly, controlling the humidity drop rate better than open air.
* Staged Drying: Up to two pizza boxes are placed per fridge shelf with a 1cm air gap. The fridge maintains the critical 15–16°C temperature, slowing water evaporation to ensure chlorophyll has sufficient time for complete biological breakdown, securing a far superior flavor profile.
* Rotation Logic: Drying is conducted in 5–10 plant batches, spaced two weeks apart. Once the first batch reaches the desired dry point (approx. 7–14 days), it is transferred to the glass jars within the same fridge for curing, freeing up the shelf space for the next wet-trimmed rotation.
* Curing: Jars are stored in the fridge at 15–16°C for the full cure.
* Burping Phase 1: Daily burping for the first one to two weeks.
* Burping Phase 2: Reduced to every 3–4 days for the subsequent week.
* Stabilization: Jars are sealed with humidity packs and tracked with hygrometers for long-term flavor and potency retention.

The estimated total equipment cost for this advanced drying and curing method is approximately £300.

This upgrade ensures the highest possible retention of cannabinoids and volatile mono-terpenes, complementing the high-efficiency yield of the Epsilon Protocol.
View attachment 2571744View attachment 2571743View attachment 2571745View attachment 2571747
I dont see a dehumidifier in all that.the fridge will take some moisture but fridge alone doesnt do shit.you need a dehumidifier inside it soo it can take the air humidity down. I have the same stuff just smaller and you get 100% humidity for the first few days until the dehumidifier drops it down to 70 then it drys slow.
Never tried the box part...

My fridge goes down to 12c but when zh dehumiifier is working i am happy with 15-16 maybe in winter it can go lower last summer it a strugling

The fridge is like a vaccume box no smell will go out but no humidity will go out as well. Fridge will dry until it gets to 15c and then shut off.you need a second dehumidifier inside to suvk the air but allsoo to heat the fridge soo it turns on as well.
And what i noticed if the dehumidifier runs for 2+ hours it gets soo much ice on it that it loses its power but a short break makes it melt and fall down then your ready for a new round.
 

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I dont see a dehumidifier in all that.the fridge will take some moisture but fridge alone doesnt do shit.you need a dehumidifier inside it soo it can take the air humidity down. I have the same stuff just smaller and you get 100% humidity for the first few days until the dehumidifier drops it down to 70 then it drys slow.
Never tried the box part...

My fridge goes down to 12c but when zh dehumiifier is working i am happy with 15-16 maybe in winter it can go lower last summer it a strugling

The fridge is like a vaccume box no smell will go out but no humidity will go out as well. Fridge will dry until it gets to 15c and then shut off.you need a second dehumidifier inside to suvk the air but allsoo to heat the fridge soo it turns on as well.
And what i noticed if the dehumidifier runs for 2+ hours it gets soo much ice on it that it loses its power but a short break makes it melt and fall down then your ready for a new round.
Thanks for the insight, I think the difference might come from the way our setups are structured, because yours makes total sense for a full-humidity sealed environment, but my protocol avoids the 100% RH trap altogether.

In your case you’re hanging whole plants or loose wet buds directly into the fridge, which dumps all the moisture straight into the air with nothing to buffer it. That will absolutely spike to 100% RH and stay there until something actively removes it, so the dehumidifier becomes necessary in that configuration.

My setup works a bit differently:

• I wet-trim and lay buds into 12" pizza boxes
The cardboard acts as a moisture buffer and wicks water out of the flowers slowly and evenly, instead of dumping it all into the fridge air at once. That alone drastically changes the RH curve.

• I run two small internal air purifiers for gentle circulation
This prevents stagnant pockets of saturated air and helps distribute humidity to the cooler surfaces where the fridge can condense it naturally.

• I’m only processing 5-10 plants per rotation
So the moisture load isn’t overwhelming. A crammed fridge will definitely peg RH at 100% for days, but a staged system doesn’t.

• I’m keeping the fridge at 15-16°C
At 12°C (like you mentioned), compressor cycling slows way down, so very little condensation happens. At 15-16°C the fridge actually cycles and dehumidifies in the background.

Taken together, the system dries slowly but without staying saturated.
So a dehumidifier would actually work against what I’m aiming for, it would dry too fast, heat the space, and stop the chlorophyllase from fully breaking down chlorophyll.

I completely get why the dehumidifier is needed in your setup, but with the pizza boxes + low-temp + air circulation combo mine shouldn’t ever sit at 100% RH for long.

Still appreciate you sharing your experience, it helped me double-check that I’ve covered the failure modes properly. 🙏
 
Thanks for the insight, I think the difference might come from the way our setups are structured, because yours makes total sense for a full-humidity sealed environment, but my protocol avoids the 100% RH trap altogether.

In your case you’re hanging whole plants or loose wet buds directly into the fridge, which dumps all the moisture straight into the air with nothing to buffer it. That will absolutely spike to 100% RH and stay there until something actively removes it, so the dehumidifier becomes necessary in that configuration.

My setup works a bit differently:

• I wet-trim and lay buds into 12" pizza boxes
The cardboard acts as a moisture buffer and wicks water out of the flowers slowly and evenly, instead of dumping it all into the fridge air at once. That alone drastically changes the RH curve.

• I run two small internal air purifiers for gentle circulation
This prevents stagnant pockets of saturated air and helps distribute humidity to the cooler surfaces where the fridge can condense it naturally.

• I’m only processing 5-10 plants per rotation
So the moisture load isn’t overwhelming. A crammed fridge will definitely peg RH at 100% for days, but a staged system doesn’t.

• I’m keeping the fridge at 15-16°C
At 12°C (like you mentioned), compressor cycling slows way down, so very little condensation happens. At 15-16°C the fridge actually cycles and dehumidifies in the background.

Taken together, the system dries slowly but without staying saturated.
So a dehumidifier would actually work against what I’m aiming for, it would dry too fast, heat the space, and stop the chlorophyllase from fully breaking down chlorophyll.

I completely get why the dehumidifier is needed in your setup, but with the pizza boxes + low-temp + air circulation combo mine shouldn’t ever sit at 100% RH for long.

Still appreciate you sharing your experience, it helped me double-check that I’ve covered the failure modes properly. 🙏
Usually wine fridges are not compresor but peltier.maybe thats where our difference is.i do all same as you just not the pizza box. Well i hope you are right at least i tried.
I allso have 2 cpu fans and dehums fan and fridges fan blowing inside
I use a humidity controler soo dehumidifier shuts down as soon as there is 60% in the air.that keeeps it slow
 
Usually wine fridges are not compresor but peltier.maybe thats where our difference is.i do all same as you just not the pizza box. Well i hope you are right at least i tried.
I allso have 2 cpu fans and dehums fan and fridges fan blowing inside
Yeah I was very careful to select compressor over peltier, for that main reason, and the pizza boxes or any cardboard boxes will honestly reduce your ambient humidity substantially as it acts as a slow wick and if humidity spikes for over 12 hours you can add a single kitchen tissue to the lid to act as a secondary gentle wick, I always consider everything before putting seeds in the ground so to speak so I'm confidently optimistic that this will achieve superb results.
I will let you know if I face any issues but I suspect my only issue will be my patience 😂
🕉️
 
Ok so I haven't smoked THC in a couple months, just CBD flower, on my last venture into the tent for watering I accidentally snapped a golf ball nugget from the lower canopy, I left it on my side and then must have knocked it off forgetting about it until now, well I've just had a bong and fuck my life I haven't been this high since I was 16 I mean fuck Im high!
the flavour was nice slight citrus mild earthy notes, I thing it was the velvet drip.
Super high 🫠
I want more but I know I will go a place if I have another bong😂
🕉️
 
How are moisture accumulation and air exchange handled in this closed system?
Moisture accumulation and air exchange are controlled through a combination of physics and design, the system isn’t actually “sealed,” it’s a managed micro-environment.

Moisture is removed naturally through condensation. Because this is a compressor wine fridge, the cooling plate on the rear wall acts as a cold sink. As humidity rises inside the chamber, moisture condenses on that surface and drains away. This is the same mechanism used in low-temperature food storage, no external vent is required.

Air exchange happens passively, not actively. Wine coolers aren’t airtight. There is slow passive exchange through the door seals and through cycling of the compressor. This prevents CO₂ buildup and avoids the anaerobic conditions that cause mold.

Internal airflow is handled by two small air purifiers inside the fridge. These don’t dehumidify or force-dry the buds. They simply circulate the internal air gently so the humidity stays uniform and the condensation plate can actually do its job. Without internal movement, pockets of saturated air can form, this eliminates them.

Moisture release is buffered by the pizza box system. The buds dry inside breathable cardboard boxes, not openly on racks. The cardboard acts as a moisture buffer, absorbing and releasing moisture slowly instead of dumping 100% RH into the chamber all at once. This prevents the huge humidity spikes that people usually encounter when hanging whole plants.

Controlled loading prevents overload. Each batch is limited to 500-1000 g of wet material, spread across shallow boxes in a single layer. This spreads moisture release out over a large surface area, keeps RH rise predictable, and ensures the compressor can keep up.

Redundant RH monitoring prevents drift. Every box has its own hygrometer window, plus two digital sensors (top and bottom of the fridge) logging RH in real time. If any box trends too wet for too long, moisture can be corrected inside the box itself without opening the fridge or disturbing the environment.

In short:
Moisture is removed by condensation, airflow is managed internally, oxygen exchange happens passively, and humidity spikes are prevented by buffering the buds inside breathable boxes. The fridge isn’t sealed, it’s a stable, low-temperature micro-climate designed to keep terpene loss low while still letting the drying process happen safely.
 
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