Thanks a lot for the kind words, genuinely appreciate it.I am really loving all the information, it's hard to find someone who actually can display and keep record of what they are doing and it working out in their favor. When I hear people claiming they get over 3gs/w I have to see it for myself, usually because people make unreasonable claims for whatever reason they have. But you good sir absolutely got what it takes to make that a reality. And I seen a comment about smoking 10lbs a year being crazy, but that's not to terribly much if you use it for other things like extracts and things like that, also if you share with friends/family. Smoking it alone you would have to be smoking blunts back to back. My personal use is about an ounce every three to four days. So that's what I grow to cover plus extra for emergency or rainy day supply. Anyway I applaud you for your grow. I haven't used the brand you use for inoculating, I use dynomyco. Do you have any experience with dynomyco?
I don’t blame you for thinking that, most people only ever see g/W numbers in the 1-2 range because they benchmark from traditional grows or from fixed “test environments” that aren’t trying to maximise total system efficiency.am i the only one thinking this is all impossible? Nice pic, but 4 g/W is science fiction. Physics disagrees. Impressive canopy, but let’s be real — 4–6 g/W from a 300 W LED is pure fantasy land. Even NASA’s plant labs can’t break 2 g/W with full CO₂ and perfect conditions. Looks great though, just not physically possible at that efficiency.
Thank you so much for that, genuinely.This post is fantastic. This lovely gentleman is sharing what most people would keep secret. And for those of you just outright saying oh it's impossible well then you are in fact calling him a liar. He's already done it. With everything he said in the way he said it you think this guy's a liar. I would say definitely not. And just like any of the ceilings that we hit in different things like for instance running the mile. There was a barrier no one could beat it. Now we have blown past it and people continue to do it faster and faster.
I for one am extremely grateful for to DrDankHands for taking the time and effort to share this great knowledge.
Cheers
And you’re absolutely right about ceilings. Every field has “impossible” numbers until someone shows that the limit wasn’t physics, it was approach. All I’m trying to do is show what’s happening in real time so people can see the journey, good and bad.
Yeah Im using living soil with these for my mycology.Are you using an organic soil mix?
I dont see a dehumidifier in all that.the fridge will take some moisture but fridge alone doesnt do shit.you need a dehumidifier inside it soo it can take the air humidity down. I have the same stuff just smaller and you get 100% humidity for the first few days until the dehumidifier drops it down to 70 then it drys slow.Protocol Update: Cryo-Cure & Staged Drying (Epsilon v2)
I have finalized the harvest and curing section of the Epsilon v2 Protocol to ensure maximum terpene retention and a complete chlorophyll breakdown, mitigating the risk of the dreaded 'hay smell' common in rushed drying. This new method is designed to manage the high volume of a staged harvest (projected ~5.5–6 kg wet) using minimal space and optimized climate control.
0) North-Star Metrics Refined
The ultimate quality metrics now include:
* Terpene Preservation: Cure temperature maintained at 15–16°C to inhibit volatilization of monoterpenes.
* Chlorophyll Breakdown: Slow, controlled evaporation to allow for full biological conversion of chlorophyll to non-volatile compounds.
* Staging: Ability to process 5–10 plants per rotation every two weeks within a single, compact system.
1) Cryo-Cure System Overview
| Component | Specification | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Unit | 24-Bottle Compressor Wine Fridge (£151.99) | Provides stable, low-temperature climate control for drying (15–16°C). |
| Drying Vessel | 12" Cardboard Pizza Boxes | Used immediately post-wet trim; absorbs moisture slowly, preventing wind burn damage and facilitating slow wicking/chlorophyll breakdown. |
| Air Filtration | 2x Mini Air Purifiers (Carbon Filters) | Placed inside the fridge to passively manage odor and maintain internal air quality/circulation. |
| Curing Vessel | Glass Jars (~10x10x30 cm) | Selected for perfect fit, allowing 3 jars per shelf for curing rotation post-drying. |
2) Protocol Advantage: Chemical & Biological Superiority
This method is implemented specifically to optimize the biochemical processes critical to final product quality, surpassing the results of conventional drying (which often suffers from high temperatures and rapid dehydration):
A. Monoterpene and Cannabinoid Preservation (Chemical)
* Low-Temperature Drying: The fridge maintains 15–16°C. Terpenes, especially monoterpenes like myrcene and pinene, are highly volatile and begin evaporating rapidly above 21°C. By dropping the temperature below 16°C, we significantly slow the rate of volatilization, thereby retaining a higher percentage and broader spectrum of the fragile aromatic compounds. This directly translates to a more potent and flavourful final product.
* Slower Oxidation: The cool temperature also slows the chemical degradation of cannabinoids (e.g., THCA converting to CBN), helping to lock in the desired profile.
B. Chlorophyll Conversion (Enzymatic/Biological)
* Chlorophyllase Activity: The slow, controlled evaporation achieved by the compressor fridge and the buffering from the pizza boxes prevents the rapid denaturing of chlorophyllase enzymes. These enzymes are responsible for breaking down the harsh, grassy-tasting chlorophyll pigments into non-volatile, odorless compounds.
* The Problem with Fast Drying: When buds are dried too quickly (common in open air or under high airflow), the internal moisture level drops too fast, denaturing the enzymes before they can finish their job. This traps the chlorophyll, leading to the undesirable "hay smell" and a harsh, green smoke.
* The Epsilon Solution: By maintaining high relative humidity (RH) and low temperature, the drying process is managed over a longer, critical period, maximizing enzymatic conversion for a smoother, cleaner, and more flavourful smoke.
3) Drying & Curing Flow
* Wet Trim & Load: Wet-trimmed bud is placed directly into the 12" pizza boxes. The flat cardboard structure wicks moisture away very slowly, controlling the humidity drop rate better than open air.
* Staged Drying: Up to two pizza boxes are placed per fridge shelf with a 1cm air gap. The fridge maintains the critical 15–16°C temperature, slowing water evaporation to ensure chlorophyll has sufficient time for complete biological breakdown, securing a far superior flavor profile.
* Rotation Logic: Drying is conducted in 5–10 plant batches, spaced two weeks apart. Once the first batch reaches the desired dry point (approx. 7–14 days), it is transferred to the glass jars within the same fridge for curing, freeing up the shelf space for the next wet-trimmed rotation.
* Curing: Jars are stored in the fridge at 15–16°C for the full cure.
* Burping Phase 1: Daily burping for the first one to two weeks.
* Burping Phase 2: Reduced to every 3–4 days for the subsequent week.
* Stabilization: Jars are sealed with humidity packs and tracked with hygrometers for long-term flavor and potency retention.
The estimated total equipment cost for this advanced drying and curing method is approximately £300.
This upgrade ensures the highest possible retention of cannabinoids and volatile mono-terpenes, complementing the high-efficiency yield of the Epsilon Protocol.
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Thanks for the insight, I think the difference might come from the way our setups are structured, because yours makes total sense for a full-humidity sealed environment, but my protocol avoids the 100% RH trap altogether.I dont see a dehumidifier in all that.the fridge will take some moisture but fridge alone doesnt do shit.you need a dehumidifier inside it soo it can take the air humidity down. I have the same stuff just smaller and you get 100% humidity for the first few days until the dehumidifier drops it down to 70 then it drys slow.
Never tried the box part...
My fridge goes down to 12c but when zh dehumiifier is working i am happy with 15-16 maybe in winter it can go lower last summer it a strugling
The fridge is like a vaccume box no smell will go out but no humidity will go out as well. Fridge will dry until it gets to 15c and then shut off.you need a second dehumidifier inside to suvk the air but allsoo to heat the fridge soo it turns on as well.
And what i noticed if the dehumidifier runs for 2+ hours it gets soo much ice on it that it loses its power but a short break makes it melt and fall down then your ready for a new round.
Usually wine fridges are not compresor but peltier.maybe thats where our difference is.i do all same as you just not the pizza box. Well i hope you are right at least i tried.Thanks for the insight, I think the difference might come from the way our setups are structured, because yours makes total sense for a full-humidity sealed environment, but my protocol avoids the 100% RH trap altogether.
In your case you’re hanging whole plants or loose wet buds directly into the fridge, which dumps all the moisture straight into the air with nothing to buffer it. That will absolutely spike to 100% RH and stay there until something actively removes it, so the dehumidifier becomes necessary in that configuration.
My setup works a bit differently:
• I wet-trim and lay buds into 12" pizza boxes
The cardboard acts as a moisture buffer and wicks water out of the flowers slowly and evenly, instead of dumping it all into the fridge air at once. That alone drastically changes the RH curve.
• I run two small internal air purifiers for gentle circulation
This prevents stagnant pockets of saturated air and helps distribute humidity to the cooler surfaces where the fridge can condense it naturally.
• I’m only processing 5-10 plants per rotation
So the moisture load isn’t overwhelming. A crammed fridge will definitely peg RH at 100% for days, but a staged system doesn’t.
• I’m keeping the fridge at 15-16°C
At 12°C (like you mentioned), compressor cycling slows way down, so very little condensation happens. At 15-16°C the fridge actually cycles and dehumidifies in the background.
Taken together, the system dries slowly but without staying saturated.
So a dehumidifier would actually work against what I’m aiming for, it would dry too fast, heat the space, and stop the chlorophyllase from fully breaking down chlorophyll.
I completely get why the dehumidifier is needed in your setup, but with the pizza boxes + low-temp + air circulation combo mine shouldn’t ever sit at 100% RH for long.
Still appreciate you sharing your experience, it helped me double-check that I’ve covered the failure modes properly.
Yeah I was very careful to select compressor over peltier, for that main reason, and the pizza boxes or any cardboard boxes will honestly reduce your ambient humidity substantially as it acts as a slow wick and if humidity spikes for over 12 hours you can add a single kitchen tissue to the lid to act as a secondary gentle wick, I always consider everything before putting seeds in the ground so to speak so I'm confidently optimistic that this will achieve superb results.Usually wine fridges are not compresor but peltier.maybe thats where our difference is.i do all same as you just not the pizza box. Well i hope you are right at least i tried.
I allso have 2 cpu fans and dehums fan and fridges fan blowing inside
Some infographics explaining the what, why and how of my choice of drying and curing method.
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Any questions corrections or input please don't hesitate.
Moisture accumulation and air exchange are controlled through a combination of physics and design, the system isn’t actually “sealed,” it’s a managed micro-environment.How are moisture accumulation and air exchange handled in this closed system?
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