MushinNoShin
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I've asked every biology professor I've had that same question and there is no name for it, apparently. It is just a cross. The whole filial thing is in reference to hybrid crosses from two genetically different parents with distinct traits (seperate purebred lines), traditionally.What should those progeny be called, then?
I'm sorry but your professor was wrong. Mendel self-fertilized his pea plants and that is actually one of the experiments that formed the basis of what we now know as the heredity model.
The filial generations (F1,F2, etc.) are based on the premise that the parents are true-breeding for selected traits (originally).
In "classical" Mendelian Genetics the F1 will have dominant trait expressions (assuming no incomplete dominance), again, assuming the parental stock were true-breeding for said traits. The F2 gen consists of interbred individuals from the F1 gen and is the most diverse due to the expression of recessive alleles, allowing for 3 possible phenotypic expressions. After the F2 gen, depending on what traits were selected for/individuals selected, expression becomes more restrictive with each successive generation, generally. One can usually get a true-breeding individual by F4 or F6 if they properly identify their traits.
F2 and F3 gens by definition can NOT be back-crossed. F2 can only be obtained from the interbreeding of individuals within the F1 gen and F3 only from individuals within F2 gen.
If the parental stock were homozygous dominant for selected trait(s) then you would get "stable" or true-breeding Individuals in the F1 gen.
Now, this is all more of a guideline because in reality there are codominant traits, sex-linked traits, etc. and so many other facotors at play. People are usually not using true-breeding parental stock to begin with anyways. They'll cross F2's from one line to F3's from another and call their progeny F1's. Not hating or anything, that's just what they do. I'm not going to pretend like I don't chuck pollen too, it's fun, I just don't call the progeny F1's.
F2 and F3 are the same varieties back crossed...
S1=Femenized Seed
They dont really exist, S1's and Feminized seeds only exist in the pot grower world...
My gojis from bohdi were f2 from what ive read over at breedbay..ive made f3 seeds and they were even better plants in those than were in the original11 pack.I had 6 gals out of 8 seeds (the other 4 got put in the sgarbage..and 4 or 5 phenosThe goji i ran was f1 and wow that was crazy, 14 females from seed and 4 different phenos, very cool. The roarges im runnin right now r f2, i have 3 from seed and they look like clones they r so uniform, so i can say that baba g of golden lion does the f2's very well, very stable.
Something worth mentioning; there is another way to get feminized (xx) pollen called rhodelization where females in late bloom are taken way beyond their "ripeness" and eventually pop pollen sacs. This happens in nature and I believe it is a survival adaptation, if a female has not been pollinated and is near the end of her life, she will pop pollen in an attempt to self-pollenate and pass along her genetic material. The will to reproduce is strong, lol.
Colloidal silver is far more effective and reliable, IME, but if anyone wants a natural route, rhodlization might work.
I believe the "late flower herm trait" can be attributed to rhodelization.
Was just planning to pop them and take a look, no plans to use as breeding stock. C'mon, give me a little more credit than that ;)Mushin-
I'm really not sure what rules the hermaphrodite trait follows. It could be a simple dominant/recessive (AA Aa aa type). It could also follow more complex rules. Until I know that, personally I would try to stay away from all instances of herm traits either way...at least if I were using the genetics for breeding.
If I were to experiment with sex reversal, I would surely go the chemical route because of the factors I mentioned earlier.
In your case, if you want to breed with anything from that batch, definitely be weary when selecting. Grow the plant(s) that catch your eye a few times before making the final decision. Stress them out and make sure they don't herm readily.
Thank you very much big homey! You guys are so full of knowledge i feel truly blessed to be able to share a forum with you guys!! I have learned so much the past 2 months and will continue learning here for the rest of my growing life!!!I personally start spraying a week before 12/12 and keep spraying until I see pollen, using 50ppm colloidal silver.
I have heard people say that lower ppm more frequently works best and gives the best results.
You spray the female (usually a clone) with the colloidal silver solution (suspension?) to try and get her to pop female pollen. Usually works, but not always.
Anytime, bro. Honestly, I barely know my dick from my ass, lol. We're all learning.Thank you very much big homey! You guys are so full of knowledge i feel truly blessed to be able to share a forum with you guys!! I have learned so much the past 2 months and will continue learning here for the rest of my growing life!!!
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