Aqua Man
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Pro tips easy fix will make the adjustments thanks a bunch.Light maybe to close use this app and set to about 10-15k lux for now.
Lux Meter (Light Meter) - Apps on Google Play
Professional light intensity (lux) meter for your android device.play.google.com
Ph I like early in veg is starting at 5 6 and drifting up to 6. You should see about a 0.2 increase in ph per 24hrs. Readjust after.
600ppm may be a bit high for this stage. 300-400ppm should be plenty.
I see a fan blowing down onto the plants. If you can move it to create a vortex type airflow just below the canopy height. Like that it looks like you are blowing hot air down onto them.
Plants transpire from the bottom sides of the leaves and that where we want the air to be. We don't want to blow air down onto the plants as it has little benefit and negative if your blowing hot air on them.
Thanks a bunch. Hopefully the sagging doesn't become too big of a deal. They will only be in the small setup for veg. The larger one I have some more of the sagging concerns with if that's the one you're referring to.Suggestion for next time or while still small enough. Try to reinforce those lids. I used the same tubs and lids but 6in net pots. And noticed the lid sagging a lot after the grow. I cut 1/2 in plywood to fit and painted it with outdoor paint. Then wrapped the foil over top and tack screwed the lids from underneath with Stainless steel screws. Works great and no more sagging. Love the set up!! Looks like you're ready to grow some monsters!!
They should have a feeding schedule.. just mix in the proper ratios they describe and then dilute as needed recommendations are almost always higher than we need.Thanks a bunch. Hopefully the sagging doesn't become too big of a deal. They will only be in the small setup for veg. The larger one I have some more of the sagging concerns with if that's the one you're referring to.
@Aqua Man
I was looking closer at the jacks 3 2 1 and I might be over complicating it but have a basic question of with with base 3 2 1 formula per gallon how do you appropriately raise the tds level to what it needs to be?
For the base scenario I get that it's the 3 2 1 ratio per gallon and I haven't tested it yet with what I bought which will probably answer the question for me but do you just feed proportionately the same amount of each part until you get to the target tds range?
Some recent pics
They do and I've looked at it what's just confusing me a bit is they have a listed target ppm and then on the left side of the chart there's a ppm value listed per part a or b etc.They should have a feeding schedule.. just mix in the proper ratios they describe and then dilute as needed recommendations are almost always higher than we need.
YepThey do and I've looked at it what's just confusing me a bit is they have a listed target ppm and then on the left side of the chart there's a ppm value listed per part a or b etc.
If the target ppm is like 550 and the values per part on the chart only add up to like 200 or 250 do you give it twice the dose.
Thanks a bunch for clearing that up. Understanding that makes a big difference in projected nutrient needs and should save me some mistakes. It seemed that simple but needed confirmation. Keep the ratios the same just up the amount collectively at the same rate.
Exactly brotherThanks a bunch for clearing that up. Understanding that makes a big difference in projected nutrient needs and should save me some mistakes. It seemed that simple but needed confirmation. Keep the ratios the same just up the amount collectively at the same rate.
Don't forget to top feed once a week to clear salts and inoculate the roots.So less than a day after putting the plants on the jacks. They look a lot better. Coloring and some of the slightly stressed look seems to have gone away.
To Calc the proper ppm for the jacks I took 1 test gallon. Added the standard 3 2 1 amount to my well water along with some silica blast. Measured out at 1250ppm.
Since the target right now I figure should be right around 500 I used only a third of each of the part a, b, salt and silica blast.
Treated the first feed like a top off kind of. Flushed. Filled the system. Removed a gallon or 2. Mixed the nute solution for 11 gallons into the 1 gallon to produce a high ppm concentration then mixed that into the res. The whole system settled in at like 525ppm and 7.5ph. After that I dosed a couple teaspoons at a time until lI got the ph down to what looks to be between 5.5 and 6.
Had to revert back to using a reagent to measure the ph temporarily as my tard buddy dropped the ph meter into the test gallon last night. Lol
Today started introducing some LST to the larger plant that is about to be topped in the next couple days. I just tied the plant down sideways a bit and will just keep rotating him around as time goes by.
Sounds good for that I guess I'll just let the ppm fall off naturally and top feed with just PH'd water with little to no nutes. The largest one is rapidly developing a root system now. The 2 medium sized ones its just beginning and the smallest I've been still top feeding every day. Since the water just runs off I've tried to just make sure the situation stays moist.Don't forget to top feed once a week to clear salts and inoculate the roots.
I wouldn't increase the ppm anymore and maybe drop a bit more for a week or 2 by 100-200ppm. They looking a bit nitrogen heavy at this point. Not overly bad but you may want to consider it.
By top feed just grab a cup and scoop some res water out and pour it over from the top is all. No need to do anything special. It's will just help clear and salt buildup that will happen and give the root exposure to you beneficials or h2o2. If doing h2o2 the top feed each time you add it to the res... which would be every 2-3 days. If hydrogaurd or bennies. Once a week is good enough just from the res unless you have root issues... then you prob wanna look at the rot rot thread I made to cure it.Sounds good for that I guess I'll just let the ppm fall off naturally and top feed with just PH'd water with little to no nutes. The largest one is rapidly developing a root system now. The 2 medium sized ones its just beginning and the smallest I've been still top feeding every day. Since the water just runs off I've tried to just make sure the situation stays moist.
I wanted to get the ppm down to 450 or so just when the math played out with the nutes and it was added in I landed a bit above the mark but with the top feeding and consumption it shouldn't take long I guess for it to settle in at a lower number.
Its all good. Ive got the 2 fans blowing pretty good and facing kind of down into the pots. So the leaves have a slight rustle to them but the stems arent like bending under the force.They are looking maxed out on light for this stage so would hold steady there and just keep an eye out.
A nice light breeze over the hydroton will prevent a humid microclimate that's common around the base of the stem and help the plants transpire well. You can usually see if this is an issue by the tiny white bumps that developed at the base of the stem. This is because it's so humid that the plant starts to form these little root nubs. When you see that it's an indication more airflow is needed and if you toss a hygrometer there you will see why. Remember just because the humidity is where we want in the tent or grow room doesn't mean it's ideal around the plants.
Sorry for the run on para lol
Yeah some will handle more light... question the leaves with slightly spiked serrations are they closest to the fans?Its all good. Ive got the 2 fans blowing pretty good and facing kind of down into the pots. So the leaves have a slight rustle to them but the stems arent like bending under the force.
As for the light its as high as it gets but is also on max. Just an odd scenario I guess because each of the 4 plants is at a wildly different height right now. Hoping starting some training and topping on the largest one will give the others an opportunity to get a bit bigger. Just an indication of the failures of light at the seedling stage. They shouldn't be this different.
Cool cool. I've got to still throw the hydroguard back in after the change out last night. The larger root mass looks vibrantly white so looks OK. This small system has no air pump by the way but things seem to be going just fine. There's a lot of water oxygenation going on without it. I have one for the 15 gallon buckets thought.By top feed just grab a cup and scoop some res water out and pour it over from the top is all. No need to do anything special. It's will just help clear and salt buildup that will happen and give the root exposure to you beneficials or h2o2. If doing h2o2 the top feed each time you add it to the res... which would be every 2-3 days. If hydrogaurd or bennies. Once a week is good enough just from the res unless you have root issues... then you prob wanna look at the rot rot thread I made to cure it.
You mean spiked like this?Yeah some will handle more light... question the leaves with slightly spiked serrations are they closest to the fans?
If so hes right up on the fan yeaYou mean spiked like this?
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