Grow Room A/C

[CannabisJohn]

(I realize that's only 54k btus total; I will gladly keep veg and flower rooms both dark in 8(12) hottest hours of the day)

Just trying to save money, get at least a little cooling for veg room. Maybe 2 single zone minisplits for flower but a small portable room unit for veg?

That should be fine.

 

[JahStone]

Im trying to run my blockbuster hoods without glass in my 8x10 room.
Ive tried with 600W up to 2,800W in the room but I cant keep the canopy temps in check.
The more load I put on the AC the hotter it gets.
Its a professionally installed 24,000 btu unit. There are no error codes shown on the diagnostic test.
Do I have to air cool the hoods or is my AC fucked?
It seems to blow cold air. When I turn off all the lights I can get the room down below 70

 

[CannabisJohn]

Im trying to run my blockbuster hoods without glass in my 8x10 room.
Ive tried with 600W up to 2,800W in the room but I cant keep the canopy temps in check.
The more load I put on the AC the hotter it gets.
Its a professionally installed 24,000 btu unit. There are no error codes shown on the diagnostic test.
Do I have to air cool the hoods or is my AC fucked?
It seems to blow cold air. When I turn off all the lights I can get the room down below 70

IMO that 24k unit should do 4k of unvented lights. Get thermometer and check discharge temp of a/c

 

[JahStone]

Its 90F under the 1000W and the air coming off the outdoor unit is around 75F. Outdoor temps are around 70. Im in Los Angeles.
I hear the unit is working and the fan is spinning, but it doesnt blow any warm air while my room is 90F. Theres cold air being blown in the room though...
Ive even tried the Powerful Mode that doesnt cycle, it just runs full power.

 

[JahStone]

I raised the lights way up and checked temps about 2ft away and I can get it just below 85F with the AC set to 70 and if I set it to full power it goes down to 82F. I guess theres better airflow higher. I would have to put my plants on a table to have them way up there though. Right now my trays are on the ground.
This is a daikin 2 ton. Im reading the manual and it says its cooling operating range is from 50-115. Does that mean its not going to work on cold nights? Its heating range is 5-75. It was advertised as working in low temp conditions, but I assumed that was for cooling...

 

[Myco]

I raised the lights way up and checked temps about 2ft away and I can get it just below 85F with the AC set to 70 and if I set it to full power it goes down to 82F. I guess theres better airflow higher. I would have to put my plants on a table to have them way up there though. Right now my trays are on the ground.
This is a daikin 2 ton. Im reading the manual and it says its cooling operating range is from 50-115. Does that mean its not going to work on cold nights? Its heating range is 5-75. It was advertised as working in low temp conditions, but I assumed that was for cooling...

Something possibly isn't
right. I also have a Daikin 24k, in a 4kw, in a relatively poorly insulated 10'x14' outbuilding. I do usually run air-cooled, but I have tested my setup non-air-cooled plenty and I can maintain 75° on summer days.


1kw = 3500 BTU x 4 = 14k BTU which leaves 10k BTU for an 80 sq ft room. Unless you have a large amount of other equipment, dehueys/fans/chiller/co2 gen etc, you should be able to control temps reasonably. Unless there's something screwy with the application I.e. outdoor/indoor units poorly located, excessive line length without compensation, etc. Is this in a room inside of a house? Garage? Outbuilding? What kind of insulation?

Btw, if you are concerned of low ambient cooling, a professional should be able to reduce ambient cooling operating temps with a low ambient kit. Daikin makes a wind baffle accessory that installs into the outdoor unit, and drops your low ambient range substantially. The company that installed your equipment should be able to help you.

I hope my advice is welcome in this thread, not only am I an HVAC professional, but I also have a very similar setup from the sounds of it.

 

[JahStone]

Im using the 1/4" insulation on the outside of the walls and reflectix inside. The room is sealed really well. My co2 stays in there.
The garage is usually around 77-80F
My veg tent is in the same garage but it has an intake vent duct to the outside and doesnt suck much air out of the garage. Even with that tent off I dont notice any temp difference though.
The only other gear I have in there are the ballasts, and I put them in there to try and put more load on the ac since it wasnt keeping it cool enough.
I think I need to move more air around. I have an 18" oscillating fan and a couple of vornados along with my scrubber going. Im going to add a couple of wall fans or something.

 

[CannabisJohn]

Its 90F under the 1000W and the air coming off the outdoor unit is around 75F. Outdoor temps are around 70. Im in Los Angeles.
I hear the unit is working and the fan is spinning, but it doesnt blow any warm air while my room is 90F. Theres cold air being blown in the room though...
Ive even tried the Powerful Mode that doesnt cycle, it just runs full power.

It is low on refrigerant. It has a leak. Leak needs to be found,fixed, and recharged with refrigerant. What is the temp of air coming off of indoor unit? What Is the model number of the outdoor and indoor unit? There also could be a problem with the inverter if it is that type of unit.

 

[CannabisJohn]

I raised the lights way up and checked temps about 2ft away and I can get it just below 85F with the AC set to 70 and if I set it to full power it goes down to 82F. I guess theres better airflow higher. I would have to put my plants on a table to have them way up there though. Right now my trays are on the ground.
This is a daikin 2 ton. Im reading the manual and it says its cooling operating range is from 50-115. Does that mean its not going to work on cold nights? Its heating range is 5-75. It was advertised as working in low temp conditions, but I assumed that was for cooling...

It will work at 100% cooling down to 50F outside. It will still cool at lower temps but no where near 100%. Hopefully it can have a low ambient kit installed professionally.

 

[JahStone]

The outdoor is the RXN24KEVJU.
The lowest Ive measured the air coming off the indoor unit on powerfull mode was 54*
The indoor unit is ftxn24kvju
The manual says a safety feature may shut the unit off if temps are outside of the operation range.
What would the low ambient kit cost installed?

 

[Myco]

It is low on refrigerant. It has a leak. Leak needs to be found,fixed, and recharged with refrigerant. What is the temp of air coming off of indoor unit? What Is the model number of the outdoor and indoor unit? There also could be a problem with the inverter if it is that type of unit.

Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....

To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.

You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.

Good luck sir,
Myco

 

[JahStone]

I taped up the lineset and noticed there was grease covering the pipes.
I notice the humidity goes nuts when the lights go out with no plants in there now. AC is set to 70 and RH is 90%+

 

[GR33NL3AF]

I taped up the lineset and noticed there was grease covering the pipes.
I notice the humidity goes nuts when the lights go out with no plants in there now. AC is set to 70 and RH is 90%+

Damn, I am having the same issue...Though, I'm fairly certain my issue is a, "misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely"
Working on getting my HVAC guy out asap.

 

[JahStone]

Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....

To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.

You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.

Good luck sir,
Myco

He said it was charged for up to 50ft and was thinking of letting out some pressure. We turned it on and smoked a bowl and it was chilly in there in minutes. This was on a 90F day. Seemed like it worked well at the time.

 

[sixstring]

I taped up the lineset and noticed there was grease covering the pipes.
I notice the humidity goes nuts when the lights go out with no plants in there now. AC is set to 70 and RH is 90%+

Most likey a leak If you clean that grease/oil and it comes back.theres oil in n the refrigerants.

 

[CannabisJohn]

Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....

To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.

You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.

Good luck sir,
Myco

May have jumped the gun some but hate to say it 90% of problems with units in this industry is leaks by poor installs. BTW I have 21 years experience in HVAC service and installs. Just in case you thought I was a nobody but of course you may have read the entire posting and know this.

 

[CannabisJohn]

Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....

To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.

You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.

Good luck sir,
Myco

Also an inverter issue can and will be caused by a sensor problem. I was talking very general. Obviously he needs to get a pro out there.

 

[CannabisJohn]

I taped up the lineset and noticed there was grease covering the pipes.
I notice the humidity goes nuts when the lights go out with no plants in there now. AC is set to 70 and RH is 90%+

As I said you most likely have a leak. Make sure your guy FIXES the leak properly. He should be able to visually show you leak with soap bubbles and then show it that it is fixed. How long has the unit been installed?

 

[CannabisJohn]

Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....

To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.

You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.

Good luck sir,
Myco

No need to get out of the thread. I do not like pissing contests. Plus I have been helping on this forum for 4 or 5 years so I also know when to mind my words. I give the most likely solution but know they need a pro.

 

[JahStone]

Its been installed about 2 weeks but I havent been using it. I had to finish building the room. I just now put a real load on it. I had a 600W running and couldnt kkep it in range. The AC guy told me I needed more load on it to prevent it from short cycling. I went out and spent $ on 1000W gear...