CannabisJohn
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- Jun 19, 2010
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That should be fine.
(I realize that's only 54k btus total; I will gladly keep veg and flower rooms both dark in 8(12) hottest hours of the day)
Just trying to save money, get at least a little cooling for veg room. Maybe 2 single zone minisplits for flower but a small portable room unit for veg?
Im trying to run my blockbuster hoods without glass in my 8x10 room.
Ive tried with 600W up to 2,800W in the room but I cant keep the canopy temps in check.
The more load I put on the AC the hotter it gets.
Its a professionally installed 24,000 btu unit. There are no error codes shown on the diagnostic test.
Do I have to air cool the hoods or is my AC fucked?
It seems to blow cold air. When I turn off all the lights I can get the room down below 70
Something possibly isn'tI raised the lights way up and checked temps about 2ft away and I can get it just below 85F with the AC set to 70 and if I set it to full power it goes down to 82F. I guess theres better airflow higher. I would have to put my plants on a table to have them way up there though. Right now my trays are on the ground.
This is a daikin 2 ton. Im reading the manual and it says its cooling operating range is from 50-115. Does that mean its not going to work on cold nights? Its heating range is 5-75. It was advertised as working in low temp conditions, but I assumed that was for cooling...
Its 90F under the 1000W and the air coming off the outdoor unit is around 75F. Outdoor temps are around 70. Im in Los Angeles.
I hear the unit is working and the fan is spinning, but it doesnt blow any warm air while my room is 90F. Theres cold air being blown in the room though...
Ive even tried the Powerful Mode that doesnt cycle, it just runs full power.
I raised the lights way up and checked temps about 2ft away and I can get it just below 85F with the AC set to 70 and if I set it to full power it goes down to 82F. I guess theres better airflow higher. I would have to put my plants on a table to have them way up there though. Right now my trays are on the ground.
This is a daikin 2 ton. Im reading the manual and it says its cooling operating range is from 50-115. Does that mean its not going to work on cold nights? Its heating range is 5-75. It was advertised as working in low temp conditions, but I assumed that was for cooling...
Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....It is low on refrigerant. It has a leak. Leak needs to be found,fixed, and recharged with refrigerant. What is the temp of air coming off of indoor unit? What Is the model number of the outdoor and indoor unit? There also could be a problem with the inverter if it is that type of unit.
I taped up the lineset and noticed there was grease covering the pipes.
I notice the humidity goes nuts when the lights go out with no plants in there now. AC is set to 70 and RH is 90%+
Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....
To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.
You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.
Good luck sir,
Myco
Most likey a leak If you clean that grease/oil and it comes back.theres oil in n the refrigerants.JahStoneost: 1120759 said:I taped up the lineset and noticed there was grease covering the pipes.
I notice the humidity goes nuts when the lights go out with no plants in there now. AC is set to 70 and RH is 90%+
Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....
To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.
You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.
Good luck sir,
Myco
Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....
To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.
You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.
Good luck sir,
Myco
I taped up the lineset and noticed there was grease covering the pipes.
I notice the humidity goes nuts when the lights go out with no plants in there now. AC is set to 70 and RH is 90%+
Don't you think that is jumping the gun? What if it was installed by a dummy with long line length without compensation? What if one of the sensors went awry? It could be a number of things - even though a leak is very possible. And unless it's a very old model, all Daikin m. splits have inverters, and the inverter compressor very rarely has issues. I'm not responding to start a pissing contest... but I am quite familiar with this equip and there can be a slough of other little quirks. For instance, what if the unit is drawing cooler air through an unsealed wall penetration across the indoor ambient sensor, causing a misread and to satisfy target temp prematurely? I will get out of your thread after this post, no offense or disrespect intended whatsoever my fellow hvac guy....
To the OP, there's no question as to what your next step is, the professional that installed your equip needs to come back out and assess the problem. Whatever it may be, leak or not, your expensive equipment could endure further damage without doing so.
You can look around at the field flare connections at both units (where the copper refrigeration pipes connect) and see if there's any sign of oil on or near the joints - this is a telltale sign if a leak caused by poor installation practices. But get your HVAC out asap.
Good luck sir,
Myco
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