CannabisJohn
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- Jun 19, 2010
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Should work just fine either way.
ill be installing my new 14k portable ac this weekend. ive been thinking about this for weeks now about a design change. I currently have the a/c cold air being "sucked" into my flower room by my 8" intake fan (fan sucks cold air into room, not force fed from the ac unit. the fan is about 1.5' from the floor on a side wall.
I was thinking about having the new a/c air fed/blown directly into the flower room via a new hole in the side wall up high (slightly higher than my hood ducting or equal in height, top of hoods are at 7'). the ac would then be pumping all the cold air in from the top, and then settling down to the floor (hot air rises, cold air sinks). my 8" intake fan would be on a timer to run 7-7 when the a/c is not running.
any ideas or should I just keep things as they are and as they have been for 4+ years w/o any issues?
Yes only thing is the window unit is not efficient compared to a mini split with an inverter. The window unit is also loud/noisy. It should work though.Hey CannabisJohn I have a 11x11x9 room located inside a well insulated, air conditioned home. Would a 25,000 btu window unit be enough to cool 4-600 watt gavitas in a sealed room?
Yes only thing is the window unit is not efficient compared to a mini split with an inverter. The window unit is also loud/noisy. It should work though.
Yea man sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do to stay low key. Pros and cons to everything.I would much rather use the mini split, but unfortunately cannot make any permanent modifications to this room as extreme as cutting holes in an exterior wall. Guess I could couple all the lines and run them thru the window but that would probably look more sketch than I'm willing to accept lol
EVERYTHING leaks light until determined otherwise as far as I'm concerned lolKeep in mind, Window bangers leak light.
john, thanks for all the knowledge and info passed down. i have learned a ton from reading your threads.
I took on a new project and now am running into a few set backs. i decided to put 7 tons of cooling(2x 25k windows,and one 3 ton mini) into a shed i built under a deck. the dimensions are 8x12x10. i had a hard time silencing it, but after i finally did, i did not have enough air flow to counter the heat. before i decide to drop another 2g on building materials and fans, I thought i would get confirmation that i was going into the right direction.
a little background on enviromnent, nights average 0-40 in winter(not concerned with winter) and 35-60 in summer.
going off of what I've read i will need roughly 500 cfm per ton to clear out all the heat. i was thinking of purchasing the 14'' v series fan to solve this problem(2900cfm). the other problem I will be running into is that i will need to cut holes for intake. I live in a residential area so i can't just cut a 3x3 and call it a day. i was thinking of putting 4 12''x12'' intakes around the bottom of the shed and build a structure on the inside to silence the new holes cut. i would build out a wall one foot and build up roughly five feet to either filters or forced air.
this is where I'm just not sure and would like your knowledge to fine tune this design
i am trying to remove the heat from the condensers, which have been placed inside the shed that needs to be exhausted out. i put them in the shed to silence the noise and not have 7 tons of cooling exposed to the public. the window units i put in are mounted through the wall into the shed. i am on the fence about putting in an active intake. i wanted to see if i could design a passive intake that wouldn't put too much back pressure on the 2900cfm fan exhausting the shed. not sure if this is relevant, but i run sealed rooms.the sheds air exchange has nothing to do with the rooms.What Heat are you trying to remove? Are the units discharging their heat from condensers inside something to silence it? Are you gonna have passive intake(s)?
if you want it quiet you need to have low FPM or velocity. So say 300fpm which is quiet have to move 2900cfm you need 100"x18" square opening or 4-25"x18" openings, if you go 400fpm which is a little louder but not bad you need 100"x14" square or 4-25"x14" openings.
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Hope this helps bro! Sup CJ didn't mean to jump in bro but is what I do peace!
if you want it quiet you need to have low FPM or velocity. So say 300fpm which is quiet have to move 2900cfm you need 100"x18" square opening or 4-25"x18" openings, if you go 400fpm which is a little louder but not bad you need 100"x14" square or 4-25"x14" openings.
View attachment 502677 View attachment 502678 View attachment 502679
Hope this helps bro! Sup CJ didn't mean to jump in bro but is what I do peace!
First question yes. Second question yes it is for passive.You don't wanna damper it because it will cause a restriction and that will raise airflow noise. If you install a shoot you have to account for restriction then opening can get bigger.Ok so I'm assuming the same applies for the intake as well? And will that work for passive or will it need to be active? And damn that's a large opening. Would I be able to get some sort of damper to be able to bring the noise down a bit if I go with a 24"x30" exhaust chute?
Also if your condenser is running balls out full blast all the time what kinda pressures are you getting on the discharge line? Depending on refrigerant type you can install a VFD or a head pressure control so fans ramp up and down to maintain a head pressure. This will make your system run way more efficient in cold environments. Just a thought.
Sorry bro ;) this condenser in a shed we don't do in Cali lol but I know they do this in cold environments to keep it from not freezing up.Damn dude you're hogging all my glory. LOL.
Sorry bro ;) this condenser in a shed we don't do in Cali lol but I know they do this in cold environments to keep it from not freezing up.
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