CannabisJohn
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- Jun 19, 2010
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Not sure if fans will work for sure but I believe they will be okay. Try it for a few hours before you put plants in there.
Ok thanks a lot, If need be I'll just run 6k. So mount it to blow the length of the room. So does 2 6" high output can-fans mounted on the ceiling pointed towards the opposite wall sound about right to circulate the air? Thanks again man for the help.
Got my Danby portable AC today. Setup was super easy. Keeping the AC at 72 keeps the tent at 77. I'm struggling with my own humidity which sucks. I think I just need to get the humidifier more directly into the tent intake. The AC dropped the RH from 55 to 45. I start flowering on Friday, so it should be ok.
outwest
Any real world projected btu's per 1000w plus ambient temp in Deep South? All these spoiled Northern Cali people only guessing in Florida/Georgia area which they are under estimating, I'm sure. Hard to rationalize 11o degrees with 95%RH unless you've been there. 2x1000 with bat wings in 10x10 flower 11ft high and 5x8x11 veg with 400 plus several t-5's in brutal conditions until October at least with fiberglass insulation 3.5". CO2 with sensor from bottles to need 80-84 degrees target range I reckon. CO2 neccessity here in exchange for 6-10 degrees a/c. Is 3 ton enough? Also, unit is the type with compressor outside that has furnace and blower inside from office building. Furnace not neccessary. Thinking put furnace/blower inside flower room with large enough vent to keep veg room 78-80. Hoping that setting furnace/blower unit with return inside flower room keeps CO2 circulating to flower and veg. Do I need to put furnace/blower outside room with return inside room? Sorry for windy question.
CJ - I've got a question for ya. Instead of purchasing a 4ton min split, I found 2 dual zone LG 2ton splits for a great price. They were used for only a few months, receipts and all. However all the lines were cut and I need to replace the linesets as well as recharge the units. LG's website specs show 1/4" liquid line and 3/8" gas line is required. I'm looking at purchasing the linesets from Total Home Supply, which is 1/4" liquid, 3/8" suction, and 1/2" insulation. I'm also assuming the entire unit will need to be recharged, as the lines aren't precharged.
Does this sound right to you, or are there other options? Anything else I should stay aware of? I've never dealt with used mini splits before.
LG outdoor unit LMU247HV
LG indoor unit LMN126HVT
Lineset I'm looking at THS14381230FN
It's called a split system. I would use 7000-7500 btus per 1 kw of light which would mean u need a 15,000 or so for flower room and maybe an additional 6-9000 for veg room. So I believe a 2 ton should be good. If you oversize too much then it will cycle too much which is bad.
Aside from just doing the math, any tips for staying within reasonable intervals? This has been a worry of mine for when I upgrade, was leaning more toward inverter mini hoping that would eliminate some stress with a bigger operating range. Is this correct thinking?If you oversize too much then it will cycle too much which is bad.
If the valves at the outdoor unit were shut when they were disconnected then go for it. If not then avoid it. The oil used in the compressor loves moisture. So if valves were left open the oil is bad and impossible to change.
Hey CJ - What kind of preventative/regular maintenance should I expect to perform on my portable AC? Thanks.
outwest
Aside from just doing the math, any tips for staying within reasonable intervals? This has been a worry of mine for when I upgrade, was leaning more toward inverter mini hoping that would eliminate some stress with a bigger operating range. Is this correct thinking?
Good info! Here's a pic of the valves. Everything is screwed down tight - not so tight that I can't loosen it with my hand, but all the way down. Does that mean the valves are closed? View attachment 216308
Filter cleaning and condenser coil clean.
Hey CJ just posted in the cooling section as I didn't see a sticky for ya there, hopefully you'll have an answer for me.
I was going to renovate my shop which is 24x24 and run 20kw bare bulb but I don't think my 200 amp service will be enough. So I'm thinking of building two rooms 12x24 each and using my prexisting split 3.5 ton a/c, with a motorized damper so it can cool each room when the lights are on. This will save me a bit of cash as I've already got a custom flip box from Olyver (thanks buddy) and all of my ballast taken care of. I'm wondering if anyone can help in building the motorized damper as Excel air wants 2300 for there unit. It seems that the material should be only 300 to 400. I could be way off but I looked at 12 inch motorized dampers and there only 70 a piece. I know there also another part of the unit but 2300 seems pretty steep. Am I missing something here?
Look under the large caps. There is a allen wench operated valve in each one. All 4 valves need to be closed. Just pinching the copper tubing is not enough. If you aren't sure, remove caps and attach a pic with caps removed.
All depends on how much it runs. My guess is with only 1200 watts that it won't run a ton so it most likely won't lower it too much but it'll lower it. The humidifier may keep up.
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