Help Me Design A New Room

[Homesteader]

I framed my concrete walls with 2x4, insulated and rocked. Probably could get away without however if need be depending on how cold it gets in the winter.

 

[jumpincactus]

or you can use "clean room" tape http://www.tapesolutionsinc.com/clrovita.html?gclid=CLPd1biK080CFQdqfgod2Y8Dqg

 

[jumpincactus]

Another question guys I have to build one new wall that will be insulated and dry walled do you think the concrete basement walls should be dry wall also

If you rock the concrete walls and they are below grade be sure to use a good moisture barrier between the concrete and the drywall/insulation.

 

[Mitgrower]

I think I'm going to rock the concrete and just do everything the right way

 

[Mitgrower]

So I'm gonna insulate and drywall then on top of the rock 1/2 inch foam board

 

[Homesteader]

You want the foam to be against the concrete wall. The dry wall is your fire barrier and the rigid foam board should be behind it.

 

[Doc G]

I like it, insulate R-30, use 1/2 sheet rock. Kaulk all sheet seams with vulkem. If your planning fully air tight scrub the room with the charcoal filter. I used to run the tube reflectors there great it saves a lot on electri Bill so you can go cheaper on A/C. But remember once you start you won't stop so don't go cheap on anything especially A/C. You might consider running C02 you'll be surprised at the results you'll find.View attachment 612612View attachment 612613

Love the room! hella jelly ...... Did u do the same for the ceiling?

 

[Doc G]

Hey i was wondering if someone could share their expertise. I have a 2.5 ton LG mini split for cooling a 11x11x8 room with (4) d/e open fixtures will max out @ 1k at best due to ceilings. Will be supplementing with either a few LEDS and or couple of CMH's or maybe one more D/E open fixture in the middle.

My concerns are major temp flux. When the a/c is set to 66-68 degrees f/h, the room gets cooled down to about 70, Thats at 100% power with just the 4 fixtures and supplemental LEDs. Soon as the a/c kicks in and cools the room down i hikes back up to 80 with in 5-10 minutes tops.

Is this or could it be detrimental to the plants, to much stress from constant temp flux during flowering?

As well as seems to be a bigger work load on the a/c unit, it's an inverter style.

Any suggestions please would greatly appreciate advisement from those with knowledge.

 

[Homesteader]

Would setting the ac higher like at 72 degrees and running it more often help?

 

[Doc G]

Would setting the ac higher like at 72 degrees and running it more often help?

they may work i could sure try it out.

 

[1diesel1]

Hey i was wondering if someone could share their expertise. I have a 2.5 ton LG mini split for cooling a 11x11x8 room with (4) d/e open fixtures will max out @ 1k at best due to ceilings. Will be supplementing with either a few LEDS and or couple of CMH's or maybe one more D/E open fixture in the middle.

My concerns are major temp flux. When the a/c is set to 66-68 degrees f/h, the room gets cooled down to about 70, Thats at 100% power with just the 4 fixtures and supplemental LEDs. Soon as the a/c kicks in and cools the room down i hikes back up to 80 with in 5-10 minutes tops.

Is this or could it be detrimental to the plants, to much stress from constant temp flux during flowering?

As well as seems to be a bigger work load on the a/c unit, it's an inverter style.

Any suggestions please would greatly appreciate advisement from those with knowledge.

I run my rooms at beginning flower 72f. The A/C does not cycle as much. End of cycle week 7 I drop it down to 66f. That usually keeps it around 68-69f. It still cycles more but the ladies love it. It actually sounds like 2.5ton is not enough to cool your grow. If it's cycling every 10-15 minutes something not rite. Is your room air rite? Is there a leak some where? That could be why it's cycling so often.

 

[1diesel1]

Love the room! hella jelly ...... Did u do the same for the ceiling?

Yes everything the same ceiling and roof except did not coat the roof with TPO.

 

[Doc G]

I run my rooms at beginning flower 72f. The A/C does not cycle as much. End of cycle week 7 I drop it down to 66f. That usually keeps it around 68-69f. It still cycles more but the ladies love it. It actually sounds like 2.5ton is not enough to cool your grow. If it's cycling every 10-15 minutes something not rite. Is your room air rite? Is there a leak some where? That could be why it's cycling so often.

I wouldn't say its 100% air tight but who really could, the walls are covered in rtech foam 3/4 ' inch covered with orca, floor is covered with linoleum, 10 mil vapor barrier, double bubble insulation and 10 mil panda film. Now thinking of doing the ceiling either rtech and or double bubble.

The Mini split is a brand-new LG 30k BTU inverter style, i thought that would be more than enough for 4 d/e open fixtures.
As for the cycling inverter runs non-stop it just dims down into a light idle and runs really quietly i have to be listening to know its on.

My only real concern is the temp flux on weather this may be detrimental to the health of the plants.

 

[1diesel1]

I wouldn't say its 100% air tight but who really could, the walls are covered in rtech foam 3/4 ' inch covered with orca, floor is covered with linoleum, 10 mil vapor barrier, double bubble insulation and 10 mil panda film. Now thinking of doing the ceiling either rtech and or double bubble.

The Mini split is a brand-new LG 30k BTU inverter style, i thought that would be more than enough for 4 d/e open fixtures.
As for the cycling inverter runs non-stop it just dims down into a light idle and runs really quietly i have to be listening to know its on.

My only real concern is the temp flux on weather this may be detrimental to the health of the plants.

I'm in a 12x14x9 with 4 gavitas at first I went with 2.5 ton split it wasn't even close. Threw that one in veg it couldn't keep up. Recalculated my environmental conditions decided more is better. Threw down a chunk for a 4 ton package unit. It's overkill but I don't have that heat monkey standing on my shoulder.

duct in the back left are 16 inch left is return left is supply. Just strate ducted in from unit sitting outside. I've got it at 66f rite now at week 8.

 

[Doc G]

you're rite tho. I think I do need more cooling, your room is a little bigger than mine, I would like a little more over kill as well.

You run 1150 mid flower? You dim the ballast down last couple of weeks ye?

you got a journal/thread up?

 

[1diesel1]

you're rite tho. I think I do need more cooling, your room is a little bigger than mine, I would like a little more over kill as well.

You run 1150 mid flower? You dim the ballast down last couple of weeks ye?

you got a journal/thread up?

I run at 1000 through week 1-9. Haven't busted up to that yet, new grow, working out the kinks at this point. No haven't done a journal yet but will with next grow. Also will be starting a new project for a legal Oregun grow that will have a journal.

 

[Doc G]

https://www.storeitcold.com

Anyone ever seen or looked into these devices? thinking of investing into one to maybe drop temps in the mid 50's for the deep purple. last week of bloom.

 

[Doc G]

So speculating on some more ideas to help with cooling the room.

Should i add exhaust with big intakes? or would this create to much negative pressure? or any other cons i may not be aware of.

 

[1diesel1]

https://www.storeitcold.com

Anyone ever seen or looked into these devices? thinking of investing into one to maybe drop temps in the mid 50's for the deep purple. last week of bloom.

It's a scam you'd be flushing money away.

 

[1diesel1]

So speculating on some more ideas to help with cooling the room.

Should i add exhaust with big intakes? or would this create to much negative pressure? or any other cons i may not be aware of.

That's tough, adding exhaust you'd just be removing cool and warm air. I'd keep it air tight and run c02. Really what you need is either upgrade your split system to a larger unit or add another split to help with cooling.