mojavegreen
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- Dec 18, 2014
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Means things are stabilizing. Plants are feeding. Most folks let the ph slowly drift down to lower limit, then ph it back up.
Means things are stabilizing. Plants are feeding. Most folks let the ph slowly drift down to lower limit, then ph it back up.Okay so my ph is slowly drifting down again along with my EC going down what does that mean?
Okay so my ph is slowly drifting down again along with my EC going down what does that mean?
Well it was going up the first two days after the last Res change and then it started going down on the third day.Means things are stabilizing. Plants are feeding. Most folks let the ph slowly drift down to lower limit, then ph it back up.
in recirculating systems i typically do it weekly, sometimes longer if things are stable. also depends on volume of the system -- more volume tend to stay stable for longer. i like weekly intervals simply because that way I can be sure the res contains everything the plant might want instead of having no idea what the plant has used, which can fuck up the NPK ratios.Well it was going up the first two days after the last Res change and then it started going down on the third day.
How often should I be changing the Res out every 4 days?
Are you sure that is a water problem and not a environmental issue?I found my problem. Its red algae making my ph drop this shit is everywhere on my equipment and in my res.
After being gone for a few days I come back to this.
I'm about ready to say fuck this DWC system, I dont how you guys are able to deal with all these problems.
The roots starting to turn slightly brown. But it's the dropping ph that's the problemAre you sure that is a water problem and not a environmental issue?
Water is cool and pipe is sweating
Lets see the roots
The ph can be delt with for now but i think the red mold needs fixed/figuredThe roots starting to turn slightly brown. But it's the dropping ph that's the problem
Yes its environmental mould, fungi, spores all that shit in the air
sry that i'm laughing. I'm not laughing at you. its just crazy!I found my problem. Its red algae making my ph drop this shit is everywhere on my equipment and in my res.
After being gone for a few days I come back to this.
I'm about ready to say fuck this DWC system, I dont how you guys are able to deal with all these problems.
This is a brand new current culture system and I did clean everything with H2o2. And I am using Z7 at twice Strength 1ml per gallon.sry that i'm laughing. I'm not laughing at you. its just crazy!
For algae or anything to grow in the rez it means that light is penetrating through. Now it can be the pvc pipes, the white lids or something else, but light is what makes algae or anything unwanted to thrive in a sealed area that has high moisture levels. .
2ndly, when a system is not cleaned properly than algae would build up quickly. I am 100% positive that you did not clean the pibbles, net pots, inside pvc pipes and maybe few other things that i've not seen.
i would take all the plants out, all the pibbles out, disassemble the entire setup and wash the shit out of everything. 5/2 mix water and alcohol and stick the roots of the plants and pebbles into the mix few times and then quickly wash it so that the alcohol (H2o2) doesn't damage the roots.
You are going to damage some plants or some plants might now even make it., but you need to fix this big problem before thinking about growing 20 plants on your 1st run.
also, GET Z9 enzyme 2 parts enzyme or Z7 if you are in CAD and once your system is cleaned properly and dried for some time than you can add your water, nutrients, ur whole shabang before adding your enzyme.
By the way, If you drain the whole system and let it dry for some time, then the alage will dry up and die. Easier to clean afterwards.
There is also a easier option, and that is start some plants in soil and call it a day.
I'm using 10 ml per 10 gallons. standard is 5 ml per 10 gallons I believe.you are running RDWC and you should do 5ml per 10 gallon of each Part A and part B. so that would be 75 ml for part A and 75ml part B for your 150gallon
you need to read his journal before giving suggestions.Did you spray these with something? Im so confused as to how this would aquire on your pipes. Like is there heavy condensation? You running 80+temps and chilled res water? Or is it stagnant air in there with high humidity levels? I dont see how on earth this could have gotten on them pipes.
Obv you cant return your system lol, and your invested enough into it where you need to use it. If that is some gunk build up, its not on your airlines. I paint everything under the canopy black. People look for reflection up to save watts, but in hydro it just causes light leaks.
Test your system for light leaks when you empty it and clean it. Your going to have to. Id also like to see another picture of your roots.
Remember if your running beanies, a live system, you cannot operate it the same way others operate sterile systems.
As for dwc being better than coco, your right its not much better, DWC is shit in my opinion. But your running a RDWC system, and when done properly, should have noticeably faster growth rates than with passive hydro systems.
From the looks of your last photos, your twisted growth is caused by a ph imbalance. Just keep your ph between 5.6 and 5.9 and you will be fine. The other deficiencies in your old growth further my point that when your ph starts dropping, your running out of nutrients, which is why you got twisting and deffeciencies up top. I mean you can add enzymes and hope that it all evens out, or you can do what I do, top the system off and add more of one specific nutrient. Those pics kindof loked like calmag, So what if your running out of calmag, your ph drops, and your enzymes cant produce calcium right? Im sure they can reconfigure specific nutrients but calcium, or mag. . idk man.
If that red shit was in the air constantly everything would be red, even your blue lines, but they are not. Your grow lights should kill most the microbes in the air anyways if your using full spectrum.
One thing we all agree upon, is clean everything lol. . and get us more pictures of your plants and roots.
I dont use enzymes, my res lasts 4 days before ph drops and i need to add more nutrients. Also go flora trio, calmag and hydroguard. .u can do that full grow for dirt cheap, and all of us can help troubleshoot ur ratios cause most of us use it.
Also when your system is empty, put a large flashlight in it. Shut the lights off and look for light leaks. . fix them. .you can see them in the dark. . Problem solved.
I think if you ditch those nutrients and enzymes, and just get flora trio, you will be fine. 120$ in nutrients and some light leak fixes and I know I can get you going. Id put money on it lol. .
I may be wrong but i think he tried sterile at first but is now live.you need to read his journal before giving suggestions.
you also need to stop telling people to get shity products. HydroGuard? lmfao! I've never used calmag in my entire crops and i know some other people that don't so wtf does calmag have to do with anything?
we can all be a chef in a kitchen, but a true chef works with the ingredients he has. Buddy has already tried live system and now he went and bought enzymes. so i go back to my point 1
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