Help with RDWC establishing roots

[login]

I plan on using a trailisnet in the flower room. I'm still trying to finish the flower room.

 

[login]

I think you guys are right about the pipes needing to be covered, I drained the system yesterday and theres was globs of red algae coming out, its probably all inside those pipes. So once I cover those pipes it should kill it right and never come back?

 

[smokedareefer]

I think you guys are right about the pipes needing to be covered, I drained the system yesterday and theres was globs of red algae coming out, its probably all inside those pipes. So once I cover those pipes it should kill it right and never come back?

Why is it red ?

I have never seen red

 

[Cashmeh]

Yes it will help. You do fill your netpots completly right? Like in can see down inside your buckets. You need your netpots full of pebbles, and put a sheet of something over them so light cant get through them. Thats prolly your problem.

Did you folier spray with anything? Im sure right now if I take out my solution and spray some white pipes it will look just like that lol. Not sayin its not some red growth, im not that guy to know, but still. .

Also on your flower system, before you fill it with water, put a flashlight in it and turn the lights off in the room. If you can see light coming out, light can get in.

 

[login]

Why is it red ?

I have never seen red

First time I've seen red too.

 

[TryingToGrow]

Probably cuz it died during the pH shifts and/or whatever else. Just a guess. From what I have been reading, algae does not like acidic, cannabis does. I am also seeing this effect in my own setup (algae stops as pH drops), could be something else though.

 

[login]

So how can I get my roots back to being bright White like this again?

 

[Cashmeh]

Keep your ppms low, dont add too much nutrients because they tint them. Other than that if they are not slimy, the plant will be ok. Usually how mine look and I have never been disappointing.

I dont really notice a huge difference in the pictures, i mean aslight difference, but nothing jaw dropping. As long as there are no deffeciencies up top and the stems are green, well at least the underside. Full red stems early growth means over feeding in my eyes. Now if the top is just red, its light burn and its fine. But you want green stems during veg, these are just signs of overfeeding, which can lead to stained roots, which is so common, and sometimes needed. Like me when I flower I cant keep my ppms below 600. My flower additive is so dark too. My solution is red. My roots are still white, but not like perfect. If you want perfect white compact fishbone roots, do this for a year then upgrade to Aero, or fogponics. Far more available 02 for everything.

 

[Cashmeh]

So imma say u don't have root rot. So now idk what you need to focus on, but I don't think it's roots. Prolly nutrient uptake via Temps if I were you, but anyways if they get slimey we can fix that. But atm your roots are established.

What's your water Temps and ppms again? How old are they? Sorry I help so many I just need updated.

PIctures are all mine, had a plant reveg but other than that there are no issues with My hydro system. Works flawlessly and I cut the shit out of my roots as you can tell lol. My plants do wtf I tell them to do, while overachieving in ever area lol.

RO water, Calmag, Flora Trio, hydroguard.. So simple even a Stoner can do it. Water Temps 72f requirement, biggest factor in my eyes is having warmer res water than most people. I actually run 73 now hi. I can explain pretty well why higher res Temps provide faster growth, but I'd rather not.

Also idk how big your res is, but that would be my next upgrade. I use 10 gallon per plant flower 5per plant veg. I will double that my next grow. So all those plants man.. That system should at least hold 200 gallons which I doubt it does. If it doesn't, your going to be adding ph up and topping off so much.. Constant res ph instablilty.

It takes my res a few days to climb from 5.6 to 5.9 then you then ph drop and go again. The moment you add ph down.. It's time for a top off. Until you can read levels, dump half of what's left and top off with fresh. It gets easy. Also 2 parts would suck in my yes. It's like saying a one part will work. I use transition mixes and all sorts. Me and my nutrients are one.

The roots only look yellow in those few pics due to 1000w hids lol..

Also need to mention those buds are 3.5 months from seed

 

[Metrix]

So how can I get my roots back to being bright White like this again?

It seems that some guys here have root fetish, root porn hehe, no offense guys...

Hey, you doing great, the roots looking good for that what happens to them in the past, just keep going and left them in freedom, focus on the plant, roots looks always different by growing system and nutration, color can be darker as well, so long they are not slimy and smell bed all good

In previous post I mentioned to dump all plants, I revoked my suggestion, it's looks better as i was imagined

 

[PK1]

It seems that some guys here have root fetish, root porn hehe, no offense guys...

Hey, you doing great, the roots looking good for that what happens to them in the past, just keep going and left them in freedom, focus on the plant, roots looks always different by growing system and nutration, color can be darker as well, so long they are not slimy and smell bed all good

In previous post I mentioned to dump all plants, I revoked my suggestion, it's looks better as i was imagined

dnt mistake someone else pictures.

 

[Metrix]

dnt mistake someone else pictures.

Hope not bro,

Sorry guys I'm not native English speker, some of my words could be misunderstood

 

[login]

Water temps are 68f
500 ppm
I dont even measure orp anymore
I need to get a dehumidifier for the veg room. I 2 quest 105's for the flower room hope that enough.

Am I supposed to have a pump top feeding the net pots 24/7? I've been top feeding every 4-5 days is that enough?

Another thing is my topoffs are auto filled with a float valve. And the blueblab will adjust the ph automatically.

 

[Cashmeh]

Water temps are 68f
500 ppm
I dont even measure orp anymore
I need to get a dehumidifier for the veg room. I 2 quest 105's for the flower room hope that enough.

Am I supposed to have a pump top feeding the net pots 24/7? I've been top feeding every 4-5 days is that enough?

Another thing is my topoffs are auto filled with a float valve. And the blueblab will adjust the ph automatically.

Since your running a live system with bacteria, you can increase your water Temps. I would never run below 70 due to slowed growth.

As for the auto top off, thats cool but it's going to flood your system with calcium or acid instead of you manually adjusting the ph and nutrients. I Mean a little is fine but if that thing starts dumping 10ml a day your fucked in my eyes.

Your system is an under current. It pushes new solution in the bottom while the old goes out the bottom. It's fine. . No need go do anything.

If you keep the water above your netpot, like as full as you can without overflowing.. You will also absorb nutrients faster and the roots won't have to search as hard for nutrients. I don't buy into the air gap theory. Your either.

Your water pump and air pumps need to run 24/7 in that system. Timers are for your lights and drip setups.

 

[login]

So its best practice running bennies is to keep the water level above the Net Pot no air gap? How far up do you go?

 

[Cashmeh]

So its best practice running bennies is to keep the water level above the Net Pot no air gap? How far up do you go?

Its my opinion and a few others. The majority of hydro growers will disagree, yet don't run bbs. So for seedlings I go until it touches my rockwool cube. About 1/3. Yet once the roots break out of the rockwool I keep them fully submerged. So the bbs like a spongy home. I feel if the rockwool is submerged the beanies can live there easier and promote faster root uptake by keeping the roots up top clean and ready for nutrients.

Thing is the rockwool isn't meant to be submerged. I'm Fallponics so my water surface should have pretty high 02 levels. Your undercurrent... So you must run your airstones 24/7 if you want any of this to work. As for the water pump 24/7 also. Like if ur gonna go this method gotta do it all. Can't be running bbs with low 02 levels.

The gap method works because it's an aero function. The bubbles popping mist. But I feel the gap works more for sterile than live.

 

[smokedareefer]

Its my opinion and a few others. The majority of hydro growers will disagree, yet don't run bbs. So for seedlings I go until it touches my rockwool cube. About 1/3. Yet once the roots break out of the rockwool I keep them fully submerged. So the bbs like a spongy home. I feel if the rockwool is submerged the beanies can live there easier and promote faster root uptake by keeping the roots up top clean and ready for nutrients.

Thing is the rockwool isn't meant to be submerged. I'm Fallponics so my water surface should have pretty high 02 levels. Your undercurrent... So you must run your airstones 24/7 if you want any of this to work. As for the water pump 24/7 also. Like if ur gonna go this method gotta do it all. Can't be running bbs with low 02 levels.

The gap method works because it's an aero function. The bubbles popping mist. But I feel the gap works more for sterile than live.

Agree with most everything you say but in regards to rockwool placement in the net pot. Current culture nets have a raised portion that means the rockwool isn't actually sitting on the bottom

Current culture recomends

I run mine according to cc recommendations which creates bigger tap roots imo

 

[tobh]

Agree with most everything you say but in regards to rockwool placement in the net pot. Current culture nets have a raised portion that means the rockwool isn't actually sitting on the bottom View attachment 1203206

Current culture recomends View attachment 1203208

I run mine according to cc recommendations which creates bigger tap roots imo
View attachment 1203209

so damn envious of y'all with the space to run UC. some day i'll join the club. for now i'll just look at your setup with a green face.

 

[Cashmeh]

Agree with most everything you say but in regards to rockwool placement in the net pot. Current culture nets have a raised portion that means the rockwool isn't actually sitting on the bottom View attachment 1203206

Current culture recomends View attachment 1203208

I run mine according to cc recommendations which creates bigger tap roots imo
View attachment 1203209

Yea it for sure works, but I'd have to see a trial or at least their trials and data. Like perhaps they are saying it mists up like aero, which would work way better. But my thing is why not just go full aero in those systems. Idk I just know how well keeping roots underwater works. Now I'm not saying I keep it that high. But I top off to as much as my system can hold and by the time it hits that 1 inch mark or 2 inch below it gets filled again. I just like having a huge system capacity. Believe it or not that's also alot of solution that could be in the system helping stabilize it. Like the bigger the res the less fluctuations. Plus if people are using bbs I feel it's will work a little better than the peroxide air gap method. I've just heard conflicting information on it. Someone was talking about how it's basically just not feeding that area of roots making them stretch. In a good 2 stage aero system the plants will be huge but the roots will be compact and tight, super fishbony. So if the goal is to make long roots, I don't think that's a requirement for the fastest growth, due to aero operating the opposite. But again.. Too many variables to say one way is best for everyone.. Id say people should try both methods. I know in my system when I have roots above the air gap they don't look near as good as the roots under water. Plus my Temps are super high. I'm sure uc reccomends 68f too.. And they didn't do top feed when it could have been done easily on their systems. Just sayin I don't think it should be a one size fits all. I'm sure they tested it right?

 

[Anthem]

Yea it for sure works, but I'd have to see a trial or at least their trials and data. Like perhaps they are saying it mists up like aero, which would work way better. But my thing is why not just go full aero in those systems. Idk I just know how well keeping roots underwater works. Now I'm not saying I keep it that high. But I top off to as much as my system can hold and by the time it hits that 1 inch mark or 2 inch below it gets filled again. I just like having a huge system capacity. Believe it or not that's also alot of solution that could be in the system helping stabilize it. Like the bigger the res the less fluctuations. Plus if people are using bbs I feel it's will work a little better than the peroxide air gap method. I've just heard conflicting information on it. Someone was talking about how it's basically just not feeding that area of roots making them stretch. In a good 2 stage aero system the plants will be huge but the roots will be compact and tight, super fishbony. So if the goal is to make long roots, I don't think that's a requirement for the fastest growth, due to aero operating the opposite. But again.. Too many variables to say one way is best for everyone.. Id say people should try both methods. I know in my system when I have roots above the air gap they don't look near as good as the roots under water. Plus my Temps are super high. I'm sure uc reccomends 68f too.. And they didn't do top feed when it could have been done easily on their systems. Just sayin I don't think it should be a one size fits all. I'm sure they tested it right?

68 degrees just happens to be the temperature that water carries the most oxygen. The whole bennies thing is cool and all but I just prefer going sterile and not worrying about root issues. Sure the bennies help the plant get food but then the bennies need food as well. So there may be some benefit but I would have to see the data to prove it as well.