House & Garden Nutes., Under Current Systems, 30,000 Watts, 10 Tons of A/C, Co2

  • Thread starter Ben Derdundat
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J

Juzam

35
8
Question about your water height - You stated previously that you add the hydroton until the bubbles are just coming through it, understand that. Are you setting your original clones in a net pot that is halway filled up? By looking at the root pictures you have roots coming half way out the side of the net pots. We set ours on the bottom of the net pot and run the water just below the net pot line, bubbling so that it wets the bottoms, your method would ppear to be a higher water level.
 
Papa

Papa

Supporter
2,474
163
jeez ben, i don't understand, why didn't you plumb it all in copper?

. . . and are the stainless steel induction tanks on back-order?

; )







Papa
 
Ben Derdundat

Ben Derdundat

162
18
BlaHaHaHaHaHa!!!! That's Great Papa... I really got a good laugh from from your sarcasm. I love It!

To answer your question I couldnt afford all the MAPP gas it would have taken to sweat all those joints.... and Walter White (from the show "Breaking Bad") got the last of the stainless steal inductor tanks... Damn tweekers!


On a serious note though you do not want to use copper lines to move R/O water. Nor do you want to use copper to move your nutrient solution or even be in contact with your solution for extended periods of time. For those of you thinking of making your own Cool coils do not make them from copper. The first Cool Coils were made from copper. Customers that first used them started to have problems with their plants after a while. They concluded that it was the cooper leaching out.(The pic at the bottom shows the copper Cool Coils when they first came out.) In all of the above situations the copper will slowly leach from the pipes over time and into your solution/ R/O water slowly killing your plants. The reason that this is not an issue for tap water is that tap water has a ton of minerals and additives which the pure H2o has already bonded to. i.e. Iron, copper, chlorine, Bromine, Fluoride, etc etc. R/O water is void of all minerals/Additives. All that is left is pure H2o and these molecules are looking to bond with any other molecule they can grab. In this case copper, from your copper pipes. In small amounts it is not harmful but, over time it will literally start to dissolve the cooper pipes. Pure H2o (only hydrogen and oxygen) is the best solovent in the world. It will literally dissolve anything if given enough time.

Sorry for the long winded explanation... I thought it would be necessary to back that statement with some facts.:nerd
 
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S

space101

99
8
Sweet setup, very clean. 1 question how quiet is that 5ton excel air stealth unit?
 
Ben Derdundat

Ben Derdundat

162
18
Very impressive.
That was cool. 1 big veg update.
I feel like I just cheated on a test.LOL

Right on, thanks! A friend of Family is a friend of mine. Your comments and questions are welcome anytime.


Top notch setup Ben. I'm looking forward to seeing how the horizontal setup produces. Subscribed.

Thanks! Me too!


Ben

Very impressive. Got another question for you about your inductor tanks. Are you mixing nutes in the inductor tank itself and using that as a top off? If so how the hell do you get things mixed up in there?

I'm gonna say it again.....The way you set up all the plumbing is so completely professional and slick. I can't wait to step up my game.

Thank you! I realy do appreciate all of the compliments.

Yes, I mix my nutes for the week in the inductor tanks, as they are my top off tanks. I use a step ladder to reach the top of the tanks and mix them using a stirring stick.


Awesome update! Those plants look nice and healthy and ready for a move into the flower room and a cage.

Thanks! They are already there and loving it! The plants showed no sighns of stress after the move into the flower rooms. I will have some pics to post later next week.


Nice setup...let the Fam/HumWholesale Fam propaganda machine continue as scheduled.

Thanks... I must say I do take slight offence to your bias accusation. I'm curious as to why you chose to leave out Current Culture H2o and Hydro Innovations in your statement but, not enough though to care for a reponce I might add. My thread is not inntended as propaganda as you passively stated. I am mearly showing support for the people that have gone out of their way to support me. "Pay it back" a wise man once said.

We are all entitled to our opinions and I do welcome you all to share them with me / us. But as for you IXE I dont hold that stament to be as true, considering you have been a member to this great site longer than I and have only managed to contribute two posts. Both of them beeing negative I might add.:no I might have more respect for you if you actuallly were able to contribute more than just that.

I tell you what, I'll make you a deal. I will continue to show my support by typing in bold print the companies/people that have supported me over the years as to make it easy for you to notice in your peripheral vision when they are in the sentence you are reading. That way when you notice the bold print coming you can blink your eyes as you pass over and insert in your mind whatever company/person you prefer. :damnhippie:


WoW is all I have to say. I can't wait to try this.

Yes, the Under Current is truly amazing. I have to say that I waited way to long to try it myself.


"Yes, Great White is used in my system. I apply it as a crown feed as to not foul my solution."

How do you crown feed this solution without it getting mixed in the res?
Do you use House & Garden Aqua Flakes normal strength feed chart or do you customize it to your standard? I know when i used advanced I used to NEVER feed full strength with what there charts said...would of killed my plants if I did follow there bullshit!

I apply the crown feed with an electric sprayer dirrectly at the base of the plants for 5-7 seconds as to not cause any run off. Remember, my plants were started in rockwool. So, this gives the Great White a "home" if you will, seperate from the solution. I will also be applying a organic blooming stimulant (Roots organics HPK) in this manner as well.

I follow the House & Garden Aqua Flakes normal feed schedual verbatim. In regards to advanced you are absolutely right. I would not recomend following their feed charts or the information on the bottles, expecialy with their additives. The bottles will tell you one application rate then the feed chats tell you another. If you are looking to get a straight answer on how to use their product I would suggest calling their support line. There you should get a straight answer in regards to the use of their product.


Very impressive girls. It is making me want to switch over to UC after following this thread... Outstanding job Ben.

Thanks Rhino! Like I mentioned before I wish I had made the change to the Under Current long before I had.


do you have a problem with stagnant water with those huge res'? thought i heard somewhere that standing water wasnt that great.

unless you go through 400 gallons a week? i just dont know how the systems work exactly so i cant really see how having SO much water helps.

side note... amazing grow, congrats, looks great. i plan on switching to under current so thanks for the journal.

GOOD LUCK!!!

Thank you! You are right, stagnent water can be a breading ground for pathogenic bacteria and germs. In this application it is not a problem and the necassry precautions have been taken to avoid this issue. All of my tanks both R/Os and Inductors are made from a UV resistant polyurethane and my R/O tanks are also painted with a black paint desighned to adhear to polyurethane. Needless to say the tanks do not allow my water to be affeted by light. From time to time I also drain my tanks and swab/ clean them with hydrogen peroxide. I also do this with the inductor tanks as well. I do go through a fair amount of water considering that I have six (6) Under Current systems in play. Each of them holding on avarage 100 + gallons each. Not to mention my mothers will soon be in a Under Current style system in the near future and that system should hold arround + or - 50 gallons. Another thing to consider is that I produce a lot of cuttings so that I can pick the cream of the crop to go into my Under Current systems. I make 300-400 cuttings, once they have rooted I then chose the best 100 to go into 2x4" cubes and veg them under four 600w lights until roots appear. Then I chose the best 22 plants to go into the Under Current systems in my veg. room. After some serious training and them reaching about 2' in height I take the best 18 and put them in my flower room. So in my oppinion I think I sized my tanks just right.


Question about your water height - You stated previously that you add the hydroton until the bubbles are just coming through it, understand that. Are you setting your original clones in a net pot that is halway filled up? By looking at the root pictures you have roots coming half way out the side of the net pots. We set ours on the bottom of the net pot and run the water just below the net pot line, bubbling so that it wets the bottoms, your method would ppear to be a higher water level.

Yes, I fill my net pots with hydroton about up to the fourth line on the net pots. The reason for this is I veg. in the 8 gallon buckets and when the water in the 8 gallon buckets is at the suggested operating level it sits at about the fourth line up from the bottom on the net pots. The foat valves on the 8 gallon Under Current systems are at a differnt depth in relation to the lid then of the 13 gallon buckets. On the 13 gallon buckets the float valve sits lower from the top of the lid then the 8 gallon buckets, which makes the suggested operating levels different for both systems in relation to the lid and in turn the net pots . I am assuming that you have the 13 gallon buckets and that is why you set your plants lower in the net pots.
 
Ben Derdundat

Ben Derdundat

162
18
Update!

How your plants coming?

Hey UC! thanks for asking. coming along great! I'm starting to see how 18 plants are going to take up the same footprint as 120 once I started to get them trained in the cages. I'm glad I found theses things. The kush is a plant that needs to be trained these cages really allow the plants to open up.

The first 4 pics are on day 1 of flower. During and after the transplant.

The next 2 pics are on day 2 of flower. Cages implemented and plant training.

The next 3 are on day 5 of flower. All plants recovered from initial training:muscle
 
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M

mrdizzle

1,895
48
houston.........

you are going to see how 18 plants makes a room 120 plant room look teeny

and those cages are the shit
 
Ben Derdundat

Ben Derdundat

162
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Gowers tip

On occasion when training your plants it is possible to crack a plant at a joint or to snap a stem... Not to worry they are salvageable and will heal.... The cracks at joints will heal them selves if kept clean.... As for the stems that's another story, they will need a little help. Here are some before and after pictures below.
 
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B

Boomer242

410
16
ladies are lookin good ben. snapped my shit worse then that befre and recovered just fine with sum ducttape wrapping. i like the twisttie wrap for extra support tho. i may have to borrow that idea considering how clumsy i am and break shit often lol.

anyways the cages seem to be the hot ticket for the UC buckets.

did u employ any other training methods? i see uve been LSTing but any FIM or supercropping etc? just curious to see diff methods employed
 
J

jakew215

575
16
thanks for the reply, that makes sense. your just keeping on top of the water sooo much that it just doesnt have the chance to start growing. i wasnt aware you HAD some much, i guess all that water does make sense now lol.

looks great man. these under current and MPB's are totally changing my view on MMJ growing, thanks again for the thread, inspiration and a kick in the ass for those of us not already doing this.

input is greatly appreciated...
 
Ben Derdundat

Ben Derdundat

162
18
No problem Man! Thats why I'm here...:smiley_joint:


Boomer- I also super crop...Ben
 
A

amstercal

539
18
Ben--Just speechless. About 10 things in there I've been daydreaming about doing. So great to see a room that's been showered with that much attention.
I don't think anyone hating on Family could have any actual experience with them. I do agree with Bossman about the pH Up and Down.
Have you ever used MOAB?
 
B

Boomer242

410
16
thats wat i was wondeirng cuz theyre lookin crazy bushy. keep it up
 
Ben Derdundat

Ben Derdundat

162
18
Ben--Just speechless. About 10 things in there I've been daydreaming about doing. So great to see a room that's been showered with that much attention.
I don't think anyone hating on Family could have any actual experience with them. I do agree with Bossman about the pH Up and Down.
Have you ever used MOAB?

Thanks for the compliment!

As for your statement about Family Hyroponics, I can't agree with you more!:yes

Yes! I have used MOAB. It was a staple in my schedual for years. Great stuff and cheap to boot!:rastadancing:
 
L-Immortal

L-Immortal

77
8
Ben it’s obvious you are a man with great taste and its apparent with the UC/H&G combo for starters.
About running the H&G verbatim I have done so for years in coco and had exceptional results. IME it does run a little hot but with trees they can take almost all I throw at it. With that said I am really wondering if the UC will be able to take it in stride at the calculated #’s from the H&G site. During the last several weeks you will be at about 2.0 Ec and I not sure they will take that dosage. I’m sure you will talk to the ladies and they will know best. One way to find out right, can’t wait to see those monster bushes in about 4 weeks
 
HG23

HG23

204
28
Hey ben,

I'm interested in your light setup. What exactly are the brown pulleys in the pics? Also, how do you secure the cages to the containers? Do you use something to reduce the pressure between the large inductor tanks and the UC epicenters? Thanks for sharing the op with us, I'll be following.
 
FLB

FLB

256
28
BlaHaHaHaHaHa!!!! That's Great Papa... I really got a good laugh from from your sarcasm. I love It!

To answer your question I couldnt afford all the MAPP gas it would have taken to sweat all those joints.... and Walter White (from the show "Breaking Bad") got the last of the stainless steal inductor tanks... Damn tweekers!


On a serious note though you do not want to use copper lines to move R/O water. Nor do you want to use copper to move your nutrient solution or even be in contact with your solution for extended periods of time. For those of you thinking of making your own Cool coils do not make them from copper. The first Cool Coils were made from copper. Customers that first used them started to have problems with their plants after a while. They concluded that it was the cooper leaching out.(The pic at the bottom shows the copper Cool Coils when they first came out.) In all of the above situations the copper will slowly leach from the pipes over time and into your solution/ R/O water slowly killing your plants. The reason that this is not an issue for tap water is that tap water has a ton of minerals and additives which the pure H2o has already bonded to. i.e. Iron, copper, chlorine, Bromine, Fluoride, etc etc. R/O water is void of all minerals/Additives. All that is left is pure H2o and these molecules are looking to bond with any other molecule they can grab. In this case copper, from your copper pipes. In small amounts it is not harmful but, over time it will literally start to dissolve the cooper pipes. Pure H2o (only hydrogen and oxygen) is the best solovent in the world. It will literally dissolve anything if given enough time.

Sorry for the long winded explanation... I thought it would be necessary to back that statement with some facts.:nerd


Very nice Ben....what are your thoughts on brass. Will the brass fittings leach as well?
 

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