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Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

  • Thread starter Thread starter heisen
  • Start date Start date Apr 20, 2018
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Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

heisen Apr 20, 2018 544 Replies 77,335 Views
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Friendlyguy

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#421
It depends on the type of P....i have heard phosphite is best P204 is next P205 needs to be broken down...outdoors i wouldnt think it matters get phosphoderma enzymes fungi keep up with it and you should be fine no need for mammoth P. Hydro, coco, or soiless i would add mam P. But i use soil and amendments along with my mycos and compost teas....i just gotta get my overwatering hand if the gd watering can...lmfao
MidwestToker said:
Or you can just go buy a bottle of Mammoth P.
Phosphates are not easily available to the plants by their sticky nature. Hence why most bloom formulas have massive amounts of P.
Click to expand...
 
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Friendlyguy

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#422
I agree. No need to Er on it..lol.....i was just asking if all plants do their own final flush.

Made the comment about gene transcription, cuz that has to happen b4 the plant does anything. It must write/rewrite gene programming. Plants genetically are like humans...we share the same and similar gene transcription and signaling pathways.

Take the P450 signal pathway in humans it works almost thevsame in us as plants...

Hammering high levels nutes the last few weeks is a bullshit ploy the manufacturers use to get us to use their product up faster so we buy more...capitalism at its finest
Limonene said:
Er no I’m just saying the plant needs less food towards the end of its cycle. So I don’t see any point in hammering it with high levels of feeds
Click to expand...
 
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MidwestToker

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#423
This is a little experiment I did on a plant with high anthocyanin levels present. This plant went the last 4 week with nothing but plain tap water in coir dtw. Didn't turn out to bad for a starved plant.
 
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MidwestToker

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#424
Friendlyguy said:
It depends on the type of P....i have heard phosphite is best P204 is next P205 needs to be broken down...outdoors i wouldnt think it matters get phosphoderma enzymes fungi keep up with it and you should be fine no need for mammoth P. Hydro, coco, or soiless i would add mam P. But i use soil and amendments along with my mycos and compost teas....i just gotta get my overwatering hand if the gd watering can...lmfao
Click to expand...
I'm a coir grower.
 
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Friendlyguy

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#425
Guys, does mg mobilize P in the plant or just in the soil?
 
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Toaster79

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#426
MidwestToker said:
This is a little experiment I did on a plant with high anthocyanin levels present. This plant went the last 4 week with nothing but plain tap water in coir dtw. Didn't turn out to bad for a starved plant.View attachment 810068
Click to expand...

Same here just less pigment

 
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MidwestToker

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#427
Friendlyguy said:
Guys, does mg mobilize P in the plant or just in the soil?
Click to expand...
I know there is a direct relation to Mg and P uptake but whether it's media driven or plant driven I don't have a clue. I would tend to think both from my experience.
 
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stutter

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#428
G gnome said:
I dont agree w that either....the last few wks of flower leading up to flush they shud be eating and drinking just as much if not more than they ever have up to that point.
Why do u think bloom boosters w super high pk numbers are intended for use during the final 4 wks of flower. If ur plants r finishing strong and if u grew them right up till then u shud be watering and feeding a lot.
Click to expand...

a lot has been said since this post but i still feel like a reply is warranted. when growing in RDWC i never used a feed chart. i always went off the old school method i was taught by the guy who taught me. you monitor what is going on in the res and adjust accordingly. in this way you can keep your feed dialled perfectly to the needs of your plants. this is what i am basing my opinion off. not what a nute manufacturer tells me i should be doing.
 
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MidwestToker

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#429
stutter said:
a lot has been said since this post but i still feel like a reply is warranted. when growing in RDWC i never used a feed chart. i always went off the old school method i was taught by the guy who taught me. you monitor what is going on in the res and adjust accordingly. in this way you can keep your feed dialled perfectly to the needs of your plants. this is what i am basing my opinion off. not what a nute manufacturer tells me i should be doing.
Click to expand...
You need to take that one step farther . I let the plants tell me what my nutrient profile and pH should be.
 
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stutter

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#430
MidwestToker said:
You need to take that one step farther . I let the plants tell me what my nutrient profile and pH should be.
Click to expand...

do you have a thread on here i could follow?. i would be interested to see what you got going on
 
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GrowGod

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#431
G gnome said:
What do u mean "fuck with tbe ripening "?
Click to expand...
MidwestToker said:
You need to take that one step farther . I let the plants tell me what my nutrient profile and pH should be.
Click to expand...
talk to me baby!
 
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Rootbound

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#432
MidwestToker said:
Or you can just go buy a bottle of Mammoth P.
Phosphates are not easily available to the plants by their sticky nature. Hence why most bloom formulas have massive amounts of P.
Click to expand...
Tried mammoth p. and did a side by side with identical clones and exact same feed. Absolutely no difference in the end. Glad it was a free sample!
 
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kansabis

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#433
Rootbound said:
Tried mammoth p. and did a side by side with identical clones and exact same feed. Absolutely no difference in the end. Glad it was a free sample!
Click to expand...
That's cuz I think mammoth p was designed to help those that are overloading with too much "excess" P,which I think most of us have established isn't really needed in high doses,K is much more important for "fruiting" plants.
 
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Rootbound

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#434
Limonene said:
I mean I’d rather the plant started naturally transitioning into the final flush than I feed it heavily and then have to force flush it. I found the former works better in terms of quality final product and the latter “fucks with the ripening”
Click to expand...
+1 !! Well said...
 
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sixstring

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#435
God damn I'm such a hack I thought this was the flushing thread,can't keep up with these formz :facepalm:
 
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kansabis

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#436
sixstring said:
God damn I'm such a hack I thought this was the flushing thread,can't keep up with these formz :facepalm:
Click to expand...
It could be,enough crap here flushing is certainly in need haha or flushing money down the drain,it's all connected somehow.
 
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MidwestToker

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#437
stutter said:
do you have a thread on here i could follow?. i would be interested to see what you got going on
Click to expand...
Sorry, no threads running. If you have a question just ask but I'm no big time grower anymore but I'll be happy to share what knowledge I do know about growing these plants.
 
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MidwestToker

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#438
Rootbound said:
Tried mammoth p. and did a side by side with identical clones and exact same feed. Absolutely no difference in the end. Glad it was a free sample!
Click to expand...
On my first use of the free samples I experienced the same reaction as you. Just happened they had gotten new samples in with a stock of the Mammoth P. Only then did I see results comparable to their claims.
 
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MidwestToker

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#439
So for those of you interest I just found this video and it does a fairly good job of explaining how I get my flowers to set faster than what you are used to seeing. Not really new science as DTW tomato growers have been using it for decades.
 
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PharmHand

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#440
MidwestToker said:
So for those of you interest I just found this video and it does a fairly good job of explaining how I get my flowers to set faster than what you are used to seeing. Not really new science as DTW tomato growers have been using it for decades.
Click to expand...
What is this science crap? It’s a weed, the laws of physics don’t apply. Regurgitated anecdotal hearsay is all you need :facepalm:
 
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Replies 544
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Started Apr 20, 2018
Latest post Feb 8, 2022
Starter heisen
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