Incogneato's Veg(ina) Box

[incogneato]

I still do not think incogneato has a lock out problem because he in not too acidic. His last PH readings were in range. You have to drop into the low fives to start an acidic lockout. Keep in mind that the Nectar for the Gods has a very low nitrogen value and some strains are going to need more then others like the two yellowing some.

Good information to know. I definitely never dipped into the low 5's. I maintained around 6. I did give the full rccomended amount of Athena's aminas and the guano tea I have. Also added tritons trawl to the mix. I was thinking lockout because I had the yellowing but they also had the claw but that may have been fro starting the N too soon in flower. We will see tomorrow since they got a good dose of N tonight! Thanks for all of your guidance guys!

 

[rmoltis]

I've been in the 3.9 to 4 range this whole grow start to finish :cry:

My gals ain't locked out yet.

 

[rmoltis]

Good information to know. I definitely never dipped into the low 5's. I maintained around 6. I did give the full rccomended amount of Athena's aminas and the guano tea I have. Also added tritons trawl to the mix. I was thinking lockout because I had the yellowing but they also had the claw but that may have been fro starting the N too soon in flower. We will see tomorrow since they got a good dose of N tonight! Thanks for all of your guidance guys!

If they yellow more the next day or 2 you will know if you need more or less

 

[Orcaman]

I've been in the 3.9 to 4 range this whole grow start to finish :cry:

My gals ain't locked out yet.

Damn, I surprised that your pot is not melting!:) Why are you so acidic?

 

[rmoltis]

Damn, I surprised that your pot is not melting!:) Why are you so acidic?

I wanted to experiment this round :cool:
Just mix and feed.

Earth juice faq off their website

Q.) I mixed a solution using the Earth Juice Original Formulas "Advanced Chart" and my pH is 3.90?

A.)Earth Juice will work in harmony with the medium and self adjust.

Since 1991 the mass majority of gardeners, including ourselves, who use the Earth Juice Original formulas simply mix with water and use without adjusting the pH.

The initial pH of Earth Juice Original formulas will generally be on the mild acidic side, this is primarily due to the natural extracts, phyto-acids and protein (amino) acids contained in Earth Juice formulas.

 

[Orcaman]

As far as the SLF-100, I think a total flush would be good. Then just start adding it with every other feeding for maintenance.

 

[rmoltis]

I'm noticing the larger the plant/roots/soil.
The better it's ability to buffer the soil ph.

The smaller the plant/roots/soil the lower it's ability to buffer soil ph.

 

[Orcaman]

I wanted to experiment this round :cool:
Just mix and feed.

Earth juice faq off their website

Q.) I mixed a solution using the Earth Juice Original Formulas "Advanced Chart" and my pH is 3.90?

A.)Earth Juice will work in harmony with the medium and self adjust.

Since 1991 the mass majority of gardeners, including ourselves, who use the Earth Juice Original formulas simply mix with water and use without adjusting the pH.

The initial pH of Earth Juice Original formulas will generally be on the mild acidic side, this is primarily due to the natural extracts, phyto-acids and protein (amino) acids contained in Earth Juice formulas.

Very interesting! With so many nute lines out there it is really hard to always pin point plant health issues. Always learning with growing!:)

 

[rmoltis]

Very interesting! With so many nute lines out there it is really hard to always pin point plant health issues. Always learning with growing!:)

Definitely!

 

[Orcaman]

Here is some info from Oregon's Only
PH is critical. Nectar for the Gods is a calcium based line that is most available to the plant in a pH range of 6.2-6.8. Other nutrient lines rely on Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium to deliver nutrition into the plant and when utilizing those elements they are most available in the range of 5.7-6.2. But since calcium is a reactive element, it will bind and carry other nutrients into the root system for your plants to utilize. It is critical with Nectar to check and adjust your feed nutrients before watering.

Start with good soil. The most important component in every garden (besides the nutritional program you choose) is the potting medium that you choose. Not all soils are created equally, so we encourage you all gardeners to test their soil’s pH and PPM (parts per million) values before planting in them.

We recommend doing a “slurry test”. This test will explain what is going on around root zone. To do this test take 2 ounces of medium as well as 2 ounces of pH neutral water and let them sit together in a container until the medium is fully saturated. Then insert your pH and PPM meters directly into the slurry and and document those numbers. Nectar for the Gods performs best when the medium is in the pH range of 6.3-6.8 and the PPMs are between 300-500. If you soil comes out with a lower pH and/or a higher PPM, a pre-planting flush with Herculean Harvest and/or Olympus Up will help correct these issues before planting.

When in doubt, flush it out. If you are noticing signs of deficiencies in calcium, potassium, magnesium or nitrogen, do not run out and buy a bottle of pretend cures! Nine out of ten times deficiencies will directly be related to your soil’s PPMs and pH numbers being out of whack. This would be a good time to do the “slurry test” and react accordingly. The calcium sources in Herculean Harvest and Olympus Up will help tie up excessive salts and neutralize the acids to bring your pH back into range.

 

[EventHorizan]

Here is some info from Oregon's Only
PH is critical. Nectar for the Gods is a calcium based line that is most available to the plant in a pH range of 6.2-6.8. Other nutrient lines rely on Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium to deliver nutrition into the plant and when utilizing those elements they are most available in the range of 5.7-6.2. But since calcium is a reactive element, it will bind and carry other nutrients into the root system for your plants to utilize. It is critical with Nectar to check and adjust your feed nutrients before watering.

Start with good soil. The most important component in every garden (besides the nutritional program you choose) is the potting medium that you choose. Not all soils are created equally, so we encourage you all gardeners to test their soil’s pH and PPM (parts per million) values before planting in them.

We recommend doing a “slurry test”. This test will explain what is going on around root zone. To do this test take 2 ounces of medium as well as 2 ounces of pH neutral water and let them sit together in a container until the medium is fully saturated. Then insert your pH and PPM meters directly into the slurry and and document those numbers. Nectar for the Gods performs best when the medium is in the pH range of 6.3-6.8 and the PPMs are between 300-500. If you soil comes out with a lower pH and/or a higher PPM, a pre-planting flush with Herculean Harvest and/or Olympus Up will help correct these issues before planting.

When in doubt, flush it out. If you are noticing signs of deficiencies in calcium, potassium, magnesium or nitrogen, do not run out and buy a bottle of pretend cures! Nine out of ten times deficiencies will directly be related to your soil’s PPMs and pH numbers being out of whack. This would be a good time to do the “slurry test” and react accordingly. The calcium sources in Herculean Harvest and Olympus Up will help tie up excessive salts and neutralize the acids to bring your pH back into range.

Good write up Orca $! Preach brother.....

 

[justiceman]

View attachment 676257View attachment 676258 View attachment 676259spliffs strawberry. She's got tons of bud sites and some nice color. I'm looking forward to dialing her in. She's a bit finicky. Strawberry cough x skunk x jack herer.

Oh the finicky one! Well now she's badass as hell!

I say tangie or rotten mango!

Orca and rmoltis are touching upon some great soil information. Yes the pH of an organic/natural nutrient solution has an effect to some point(minor) in organics but the pH in a soil medium is entirely different and far more important. The reason rmoltis can throw down acid organic nutes into his soil is because the soil is breaking down the organic matter with microbiology and bringing everything into range for uptake. I guarantee if his actual soil pH was tested it would not read 4.0. His soil is buffering the pH of his nutrients which shows it is alive and thriving. Another excellent point he touched on is the more soil the better it buffers pH.

 

[dan1989]

I still do not think incogneato has a lock out problem because he in not too acidic. His last PH readings were in range. You have to drop into the low fives to start an acidic lockout. Keep in mind that the Nectar for the Gods has a very low nitrogen value and some strains are going to need more then others like the two yellowing some.

Imagine we're disregarding the medium for a minute, coco, soil, whatever. I was told that you shouldn't overfeed, because even if you're not getting any obvious signs such as nitrogen burn or something, any nutrients that can't be used by the plant at that time attach to new growth and can't be flushed out. Basically I'm supposed to feed the bare minimum, just enough to meet the plants needs. He gave a good analogy of a fat person; they are well fed but not at all healthy... Do you find this to be true in your opinion?

 

[incogneato]

As far as the SLF-100, I think a total flush would be good. Then just start adding it with every other feeding for maintenance.

That's exactly what I did, its reassuring to hear I'm on the right track! As always I appreciate your guidance Orca!

Here is some info from Oregon's Only
PH is critical. Nectar for the Gods is a calcium based line that is most available to the plant in a pH range of 6.2-6.8. Other nutrient lines rely on Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium to deliver nutrition into the plant and when utilizing those elements they are most available in the range of 5.7-6.2. But since calcium is a reactive element, it will bind and carry other nutrients into the root system for your plants to utilize. It is critical with Nectar to check and adjust your feed nutrients before watering.

Start with good soil. The most important component in every garden (besides the nutritional program you choose) is the potting medium that you choose. Not all soils are created equally, so we encourage you all gardeners to test their soil’s pH and PPM (parts per million) values before planting in them.

We recommend doing a “slurry test”. This test will explain what is going on around root zone. To do this test take 2 ounces of medium as well as 2 ounces of pH neutral water and let them sit together in a container until the medium is fully saturated. Then insert your pH and PPM meters directly into the slurry and and document those numbers. Nectar for the Gods performs best when the medium is in the pH range of 6.3-6.8 and the PPMs are between 300-500. If you soil comes out with a lower pH and/or a higher PPM, a pre-planting flush with Herculean Harvest and/or Olympus Up will help correct these issues before planting.

When in doubt, flush it out. If you are noticing signs of deficiencies in calcium, potassium, magnesium or nitrogen, do not run out and buy a bottle of pretend cures! Nine out of ten times deficiencies will directly be related to your soil’s PPMs and pH numbers being out of whack. This would be a good time to do the “slurry test” and react accordingly. The calcium sources in Herculean Harvest and Olympus Up will help tie up excessive salts and neutralize the acids to bring your pH back into range.

I read that on the bottom of my feeding chart. That's part of where my confusion about the herculean harvest came from. I did a slurry test on both of my mediums before i started and they are in range.

 

[incogneato]

I've been in the 3.9 to 4 range this whole grow start to finish :cry:

My gals ain't locked out yet.

I don't think I'll try that in coco lol.

Oh the finicky one! Well now she's badass as hell!

yea I went from ready to dump her to baby please don't go,I can do better! Lol I can't wait to dial her in, I hope the smoke is legit!

Imagine we're disregarding the medium for a minute, coco, soil, whatever. I was told that you shouldn't overfeed, because even if you're not getting any obvious signs such as nitrogen burn or something, any nutrients that can't be used by the plant at that time attach to new growth and can't be flushed out. Basically I'm supposed to feed the bare minimum, just enough to meet the plants needs. He gave a good analogy of a fat person; they are well fed but not at all healthy... Do you find this to be true in your opinion?

Thats what I think happened to me. I kept upping the feed becuse they didn't show any negative signs and then boom! Burned the shit outta them, well some of them. I was up near 1300-1400 ppm and slightly out of balance as well.then I see the leaf tip curl so I dial back the nitrogen, now I have nitrogen deficiency lol. Good thing I have my boys to get me dialed in. I think im on the right track now. They're already lookng much happier.

 

[rmoltis]

Oh the finicky one! Well now she's badass as hell!

I say tangie or rotten mango!

Orca and rmoltis are touching upon some great soil information.

Yes the pH of an organic/natural nutrient solution has an effect to some point(minor) in organics but the pH in a soil medium is entirely different and far more important.

The reason rmoltis can throw down acid organic nutes into his soil is because the soil is breaking down the organic matter with microbiology and bringing everything into range for uptake.

I guarantee if his actual soil pH was tested it would not read 4.0. His soil is buffering the pH of his nutrients which shows it is alive and thriving. Another excellent point he touched on is the more soil the better it buffers pH.

Nailed it!

I think the microbes included in the nutrient line make a large difference in the soils ability to buffer as well.

The plants emitt exudates that attract specific biology that help break down the soil into parts they need/want.

If the plant has thriving biological life in the soil. It can choose what bacteria to attract based on the nutrients those bacteria release.

So for example The life the plant signals in the soil in veg.

Will be different when the plant is in flower. Different nutritional needs.

So the biology not only helps buffer ph. But helps release nutrients the plants ask for in different stages.

 

[Orcaman]

I don't think I'll try that in coco lol.
yea I went from ready to dump her to baby please don't go,I can do better! Lol I can't wait to dial her in, I hope the smoke is legit!

Thats what I think happened to me. I kept upping the feed becuse they didn't show any negative signs and then boom! Burned the shit outta them, well some of them. I was up near 1300-1400 ppm and slightly out of balance as well.then I see the leaf tip curl so I dial back the nitrogen, now I have nitrogen deficiency lol. Good thing I have my boys to get me dialed in. I think im on the right track now. They're already lookng much happier.

Right on brother and here is where you on one up on me with numbers. I don't have a PPM meter And just try to watch my plants to look for anything wrong. If your ppm numbers have been 1300-1400 to the recommended 300-500 ppm is not slight in my eyes. I think we are both now better understanding the side affects of overfeeding with these nutes. So both rmoltis, and justiceman bring up a great point about nute lock from overfeeding.
Here is an example of an acidic nute lock that happened to me a couple of years back with a PH crash from 6.2 down 4.6. The reason I want to show you this because of your yellowing problem is with no leaf burn.

A few days later and toast!

 

[incogneato]

Right on brother and here is where you on one up on me with numbers. I don't have a PPM meter And just try to watch my plants to look for anything wrong. If your ppm numbers have been 1300-1400 to the recommended 300-500 ppm is not slight in my eyes. I think we are both now better understanding the side affects of overfeeding with these nutes. So both rmoltis, and justiceman bring up a great point about nute lock from overfeeding.
Here is an example of an acidic nute lock that happened to me a couple of years back with a PH crash from 6.2 down 4.6. The reason I want to show you this because of your yellowing problem is with no leaf burn.

A few days later and toast!

I'll have to look into it a little further but I think that 3-500 ppm recommendation is for the medium, not necessarily the feed. When I mix according to the chart its around 1,000 ppm. I've been going 1/4-1/2 strength lately and I'm between 4-800 ppm. I see what your saying now. If it was lockout I would probably see some burn, whereas its just yellowing so its probably just deficient. I did give them a mid flowering dose according to the feed chart so it should start to improve. I'm finding the more simple I keep it, the smoother things go.

 

[Orcaman]

Nailed it!

I think the microbes included in the nutrient line make a large difference in the soils ability to buffer as well.

The plants emitt exudates that attract specific biology that help break down the soil into parts they need/want.

If the plant has thriving biological life in the soil. It can choose what bacteria to attract based on the nutrients those bacteria release.

So for example The life the plant signals in the soil in veg.

Will be different when the plant is in flower. Different nutritional needs.

So the biology not only helps buffer ph. But helps release nutrients the plants ask for in different stages.

No you circled it!:) Microbiology is the key in all life in some manner. I have used SubCultures for years from General Hydroponics. Then using osa28's Colony X, and now using Mammoth P microbes. Here is a link to check out this new Colorado Company making it local for me.
https://mammothmicrobes.com/?v=7516fd43adaa

 

[incogneato]

No you circled it!:) Microbiology is the key in all life in some manner. I have used SubCultures for years from General Hydroponics. Then using osa28's Colony X, and now using Mammoth P microbes. Here is a link to check out this new Colorado Company making it local for me.
https://mammothmicrobes.com/?v=7516fd43adaa

I requested a sample from them but they want to send it to a local grow store instead of me directly. I understand why but I really don't want to deal with that.