Interested In Real Spores Without The "fluff"

[Resinable]

I will try to find out about this today.

I would wait to see if the packs will work for you before dunkin with the soop. It usually takes a couple days to start working... At least in my garden.

Thanks Cap. I transplanted healthy, rooted cuttings into solo cups with both Met52 at 10 grams per gallon and the Foliar pack at 5 grams per gallon over a week ago and I still have root aphids. I think the Met and the foliar pack are working though; I am seeing signs of improved health after losing about 35% of the cuttings. My thinking is to rely mostly on the Met and foliar packs but that any additional compatible weapons should also be used. While the plants are still in solo cups dunking in insecticidal soap would still be feasible. Anyway, thanks for looking into it Cap, I could not find anything on this question in my searches.

BTW: you better order some containers of your benes, outdoor and greenhouse season is just around the corner and word is spreading about your products!

 

[motherlode]

the major benefit of the insecticide soap if your fighting root aphids is that it will help break down the coating the aphids leave on the roots that block uptake of water and nutes

 

[TreFarmer]

Got my foliar Cap!! THANKS!!
BTW it doesn't look as tastey as people were letting on...
But the flavor is outstanding!! lol:D

 

[Aligee]

Thanks Cap. I transplanted healthy, rooted cuttings into solo cups with both Met52 at 10 grams per gallon and the Foliar pack at 5 grams per gallon over a week ago and I still have root aphids. I think the Met and the foliar pack are working though; I am seeing signs of improved health after losing about 35% of the cuttings. My thinking is to rely mostly on the Met and foliar packs but that any additional compatible weapons should also be used. While the plants are still in solo cups dunking in insecticidal soap would still be feasible. Anyway, thanks for looking into it Cap, I could not find anything on this question in my searches.

BTW: you better order some containers of your benes, outdoor and greenhouse season is just around the corner and word is spreading about your products!

thats a real strong dose of met 52 and you still seeing ra i talked to susan @ greenmountainharvest yesterday and was told 11 grams per 5 gal hope this isnt a super ra making its way around good luck bro !!!

 

[TreFarmer]

Hey Cap... can you point me to the page/s where you discuss using the foliar pack?

 

[Resinable]

thats a real strong dose of met 52 and you still seeing ra i talked to susan @ greenmountainharvest yesterday and was told 11 grams per 5 gal hope this isn't a super ra making its way around good luck bro !!!

Thanks Aligee,
These RAs do have some resistance to imid and pyrethroids but I doubt they have any to Caps foliar pack or Met52. It seems like it would be difficult for them to build a resistance to these biopescticides given their modes of action. I believe the Met52 label recommends a dose of 2-6 grams per gallon, which doesn't seem like much when you mix it in, especially when you consider that all the rice grains don't sporelate. I might even try 18 grams per gallon!

I will eradicate these vermin!

 

[cctt]

So far my finding indicate that bacillis species and trichoderma species are not super harmful on fish. Still readign about it though. Its a tough question and I woudlnt want to kill your fish.

Is there a way to maybe put some fish in a trashcan with the same water and do a test? I can send you some when it gets here if you would like to try it.

It would be possible, but not for a very long test - the grow bed also serves as a biofilter and without it in the loop ammonia would soon build to toxic levels. I don't know how long the bacteria and fungi would take to affect the fish in whatever way they do, if at all.

I will try to do some more research here. It may be only the nute pack that I need for this system, though I very much like the idea of the root pack's qualities for it, too. And, of course, the foliar for my other system (root aphids :/ ).

So yes, absolutely, I will order all of them once they're available, and report results here. Please let me know whenever that's the case.

 

[Capulator]

Thanks Cap. I transplanted healthy, rooted cuttings into solo cups with both Met52 at 10 grams per gallon and the Foliar pack at 5 grams per gallon over a week ago and I still have root aphids. I think the Met and the foliar pack are working though; I am seeing signs of improved health after losing about 35% of the cuttings. My thinking is to rely mostly on the Met and foliar packs but that any additional compatible weapons should also be used. While the plants are still in solo cups dunking in insecticidal soap would still be feasible. Anyway, thanks for looking into it Cap, I could not find anything on this question in my searches.

BTW: you better order some containers of your benes, outdoor and greenhouse season is just around the corner and word is spreading about your products!

The dosage is more like 1-2 teaspoons per liter. 5 grams is about 1 teaspoon. you would need closer to 20 grams per gallon. Perhaps that is why it is taking longer or not working as well.

Synthetic insecticides and beneficial bacteria/fungi are not compatible with one another.

 

[Capulator]

The packs will not harm either beneficial nematodes or predatory mites.:sun

 

[Capulator]

Hey Cap... can you point me to the page/s where you discuss using the foliar pack?

FOLIAR:

1-2 tsp / LITER, as a drench or spray.

If you spray, its best to stir in to RO or distilled water, and then once stirred up, let the solution settle, and take the liquid off the top. This is easily done if using a pitcher. You can also strain it with a nylon. This is just to prevent the sediment/carrier from blocking the nozzle on the sprayer.

Or you can put it in the tea. I use a heaping tablespoon or 2 of the root and the foliar and around 3-5 gallons of RO when I do my tea. Then I add EWC (earth worm castings) @ 1-2 handfuls, and a handful of alfalfa meal in to a stocking. The stocking floats in the bucket. The bucket has an airdisc hooked to an airpump. I put a heavy pebble on top of the disc to keep it from floating. Then add like 50-100 ml of molasses, or carboload...


Bubble for 24-48 hours.

Use 1-2 cups per 10 gallons.

This is in essence the hisenberg tea, EWC tea, richie rich tea ...Although I am not sure if those had alfalfa.. , with my packs substituted for great white/zho/roots excel... etc...

 

[TreFarmer]

^^^THAT'S MY MAN!!
thanks Cap..
Oh yah... how are the little packs of fungicide applied?? ARE THESE THE OTHER PACKS YOU SPEAK OF in the above post?
Thanks, and apologize if these are re-asked Qs. ANDROID BLOWS!!

 

[Jack Stackman]

Their baaaaaack! I ended up tossing my two Critical + plants, I got 4 Blueberrys left. I bubbled those 4 in a Spectracide (1/2 dose) and Bayer Tree and Shrub (Double dose)bath overnight, bombed the whole area and cleaned everything I could think of... I thought we were on our way, so I popped some more beans. Now more signs of RA after another 2 weeks of veg. My bb bushes have good new growth but are starting to slightly yellow. I thought I was just paranoid but my seedlings are starting to show signs also on their first set of leaves. Smh what a drag.... Still tryin to hold out on the Met 52 so I can get the foliar pack from u. About how long u thinkin we got b4 they are available?

Jay Es.... :smiley_joint:

 

[Resinable]

The dosage is more like 1-2 teaspoons per liter. 5 grams is about 1 teaspoon. you would need closer to 20 grams per gallon. Perhaps that is why it is taking longer or not working as well.

Synthetic insecticides and beneficial bacteria/fungi are not compatible with one another.

As far as synthetic insecticides and beneficial bacteria and fungi not being compatible, I do not believe that is necessarily correct. Whether or not a particular insecticide is compatible with beneficial bacteria or fungi has nothing to do with whether it is "synthetic" or "natural" but rather with the chemical properties and interactions between the insecticide in question and a particular bacteria or fungi. For instance, imidacloprid and synthetic pyrethroids both target the nervous systems of insects; this mode of action would suggest that these two synthetic chemicals are probably not detrimental to beneficial bacteria and fungi. However, to be clear, I have not used either imidacloprid or pyrethrin drench on my current batch of young plants. My original question was about the compatibility of "organic" insecticidal soaps and the beneficials in your foliar pack. I would like to use the insecticidal soap because I have heard it can be effective and it is relatively non toxic to humans but I do not want to harm my benes.

 

[Capulator]

organic insecticidal soap no problem. Neem/ azamax, no problem.

I misunderstood your application. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon container of soil if you are going to mix.

There is still a lot of research to be done as far as the interaction between all pesticides/herbicides and beneficial bacteria/fungi go...

I would not want to give you false info and have you waste your cash using two things where one may cancel the other out. That is why I suggest to go the harsh route if all else fails, and not at the same time as the benny route.

 

[El Cerebro]

About how long u thinkin we got b4 they are available?

also patiently awaiting the next shipment..

 

[fasteddy0]

FOLIAR:

1-2 tsp / LITER, as a drench or spray.

If you spray, its best to stir in to RO or distilled water, and then once stirred up, let the solution settle, and take the liquid off the top. This is easily done if using a pitcher. You can also strain it with a nylon. This is just to prevent the sediment/carrier from blocking the nozzle on the sprayer.

Or you can put it in the tea. I use a heaping tablespoon or 2 of the root and the foliar and around 3-5 gallons of RO when I do my tea. Then I add EWC (earth worm castings) @ 1-2 handfuls, and a handful of alfalfa meal in to a stocking. The stocking floats in the bucket. The bucket has an airdisc hooked to an airpump. I put a heavy pebble on top of the disc to keep it from floating. Then add like 50-100 ml of molasses, or carboload...


Bubble for 24-48 hours.

Use 1-2 cups per 10 gallons.

This is in essence the hisenberg tea, EWC tea, richie rich tea ...Although I am not sure if those had alfalfa.. , with my packs substituted for great white/zho/roots excel... etc...

Could you please clarify a little bit about "Use 1-2 cups per 10 gallons"

Does this mean 1-2 cups of the Tea with 10 gallons of purified or RO water? Then feed to the plant?

If so why wouldnt you be able to apply at full strength? Or a stronger dilution that 1-2 cups per 10 gallons?

Thanks,
eddy

 

[Capulator]

Could you please clarify a little bit about "Use 1-2 cups per 10 gallons"

Does this mean 1-2 cups of the Tea with 10 gallons of purified or RO water? Then feed to the plant?

If so why wouldnt you be able to apply at full strength? Or a stronger dilution that 1-2 cups per 10 gallons?

Thanks,
eddy

1-2 cups tea/ 10 gallons of either res solution, or water for top feed.

the tea can be refrigerated for up to 10 days. You can make smaller or larger batches based on your needs.

Stronger dilution not necessary. This is the tea recipe that has been created previously by members of other forums. You can play with the solution and see what works for you, but this recipe is already tried and true.

The shipment should be in soon.

 

[cctt]

A couple questions about the tea-

• By brewing a tea with high sugar levels, are we not setting ourselves up for anaerobes to have to come break down dead aerobes once explosive population growth uses available oxygen faster than it can dissolve?
• Usually a compost tea is made to grow fungi as well as bacteria. I know some of the fungi will not grow in the tea anyway, as they require specific conditions (eg mycorrhizae need contact with plant roots), but is this the case for all fungi in the pack or would it be possible to feed them as well for improved results?

 

[GanjaGardener]

A couple questions about the tea-By brewing a tea with high sugar levels, are we not setting ourselves up for anaerobes to have to come break down dead aerobes once explosive population growth uses available oxygen faster than it can dissolve

Put another way, when the available O2 levels are too low, relative to the sugars, bad things can happen. Isn't it all about balance?

(eg mycorrhizae need contact with plant roots)

I know you're discussing mycorrhizae in relationship to teas here, but I don't know if you are aware that new studies have isolated a process in each of the mycorrhizae symbiants and that they actually reach out to one another in the substrate. ie there's more to it than just direct contact. Interesting stuff.

 

[Capulator]

well said GG.

The rhizosphere is an amazing place, and still what I consider to be one of the wonders of the world.