Irietimes Bare Bones Grows

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justiceman

justiceman

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so what is the general consensus on how to use cal;-mag?
Epson salt. iv only;y spray it on hungry plants so far.

how should i use it with healthy plants.

chris.
Generally the going rate is about 2-5ml per gallon of botanicare calmag. Most of the time it's not even needed but there are times, and it's generally a good idea to cut it out after the first few weeks of flower because of the added Nitrogen.

Things you would want to ask yourself in deciding if it's needed.
  • Does my soil/medium have calcium and magnesium in it?
  • Does my base nutrient have calcium and magnesium in it?
  • Does my water supply have calcium and magnesium?
If your answer is NO to all or most of those then you might need it. If you answer is YES to most of those then you probably don't need it.
 
jipp

jipp

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Generally the going rate is about 2-5ml per gallon of botanicare calmag. Most of the time it's not even needed but there are times, and it's generally a good idea to cut it out after the first few weeks of flower because of the added Nitrogen.

Things you would want to ask yourself in deciding if it's needed.
  • Does my soil/medium have calcium and magnesium in it?
  • Does my base nutrient have calcium and magnesium in it?
  • Does my water supply have calcium and magnesium?
If your answer is NO to all or most of those then you might need it. If you answer is YES to most of those then you probably don't need it.


thanks, no clue what soil;/water/fert has/.
 
Irietime

Irietime

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Looks Great! You're pushing me toward nets. Have you decided if you like the nets better than the mobility? It looks like your yield is going to be better this time.
I feel like the net really helped me fill my entire space with very little work. I think they are the way to go for people who have small grow rooms, I can reach the plants in the back easily, my room is only 2.5 feet deep. I do miss taking them out for photo shoots though:) but over all the pros are out weighing the cons for me. I will say that a double scrog would be the best, I'm gonna role with that on the next run, because the stretch is to unpredictable. When I look at my plants I can visualize maybe another 25% or so more tops if I had put another screen on top. Learning as we go.

All in all I think the net is the way to go as long as you can reach all your plants fairly easy. Also it's a lot less work than tying down individual branches.

Another thought I had was making the individual squares in your net like 2-3 inches square, so you can start training branches more quickly and getting light to the lovely secondaries creating more tops.
 
justiceman

justiceman

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thanks, no clue what soil;/water/fert has/.
No prob.

If you still have a bag of the soil you used you can look at the ingredients. Things like bonemeal, dolomite lime, or oystershell are generally what you are looking for as calcium sources.

As for fertilizer you can look on the bottle where it says guaranteed analysis. calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, and magnesium sulfate are mostly what you would see as calmag sources.

Water is a different story. You can kind of try to guess with an tds/ppm/ec meter, but the other two are usually of more importance unless your water is extremely hard.
 
Irietime

Irietime

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Was just admiring the serration on this sour diesel leaf:eyepiece:
IMG 4965
 
Farmer P

Farmer P

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I feel like the net really helped me fill my entire space with very little work. I think they are the way to go for people who have small grow rooms, I can reach the plants in the back easily, my room is only 2.5 feet deep. I do miss taking them out for photo shoots though:) but over all the pros are out weighing the cons for me. I will say that a double scrog would be the best, I'm gonna role with that on the next run, because the stretch is to unpredictable. When I look at my plants I can visualize maybe another 25% or so more tops if I had put another screen on top. Learning as we go.

All in all I think the net is the way to go as long as you can reach all your plants fairly easy. Also it's a lot less work than tying down individual branches.

Another thought I had was making the individual squares in your net like 2-3 inches square, so you can start training branches more quickly and getting light to the lovely secondaries creating more tops.
Stackable nets would be cool. If you really wanted to get technical you could make some blocks with dowels and make it fully adjustable. I was thinking that or maybe put rails so I could make nets with no legs that just slide in where I want them.
 
Irietime

Irietime

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Stackable nets would be cool. If you really wanted to get technical you could make some blocks with dowels and make it fully adjustable. I was thinking that or maybe put rails so I could make nets with no legs that just slide in where I want them.
Adjustable nets would be ideal. I'm a simpleton so I'll just probably build another set similar to the ones I have , but 6-8 inches tall and add them as needed.
 
Irietime

Irietime

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I dropped the ball on the watering today. Day 5 was yesterday and I knew I should've watered but I let it slide one more day. Still pretty perky up top, but def got some drooping down below and also some leaves that are yellowing out..not sure if the yellowing is because I stopped the chelated iron with the nitrogen, or if it was the under watering, maybe a combo of both??

Any ideas??
IMG 4969
IMG 4970
IMG 4971
 
justiceman

justiceman

2,718
263
I dropped the ball on the watering today. Day 5 was yesterday and I knew I should've watered but I let it slide one more day. Still pretty perky up top, but def got some drooping down below and also some leaves that are yellowing out..not sure if the yellowing is because I stopped the chelated iron with the nitrogen, or if it was the under watering, maybe a combo of both??

Any ideas??View attachment 692307 View attachment 692308 View attachment 692309
Probably a slight combo of both. Dropping the chelated iron did lower the N though so if you really start seeing them yellow a lot more and need N then you know what to add. You'll have to find the balance between N leaf curl toxicity, and not enough N. Better not enough than too much though.

Overall things are looking fantastic!
 
Irietime

Irietime

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Thanks brother!! I gotta learn to walk the thin nitrogen line. Both the Buddha bloom(.5-2-1) and bioroot (1-1-1) have nitrogen, but the plants seem to want a touch more. On my watering yesterday used 2 tsp of bioroot and I added back just one tsp of the chelated iron in 2 gal of water. We'll see if the little bit of yellowing gets back in check. Also there's a fair amount of the shaded under leaves falling off 8-10 leaves. Would this be expected of the under growth on a scrog grow??theres hardly any light down there
 
jipp

jipp

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313
you know its interesting how a plant communicate.. droopy leafs ( of course different degree of droopy.. its very subtle sometimes with the tips etc.. but the plant talks ) can be several things.. its all about knowing what the hell you did the last time before something happens then you can diagnose the issue obvious you knew it was water.. im just making conversation never mind me. laughs.

you are rocking it man.

chirs.
 
Irietime

Irietime

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Thanks Chris!! Your totally right about the plant communicating, they'll show you visually. It can get really complicated, so I choose to add as little as possible and study the signs and responses the plants have. Keeping it simple narrows down the possible issues that may happen.
I'm probably talking out of my ass, it's just the way I approach growing:smoking::eyepiece::) keep it lite and keep it lifted. Peace
 

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