Is curing in jars bullshit and a way to justify wrongly dryd buds

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Lovthegrow

Lovthegrow

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So go ahead and cure your way for a month or two.And see how that smoke blows.And Happy Harvesting
I do. I should age some up from now on. Put an oz off each grow aside for a year or more. Wonder what kind of conditions would be best.
[/QUOTEDig ashollow hole about three feet deep in a cool
 
Aksarben

Aksarben

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I'm a new grower and recently just picked and have some autoflowers drying as well as some OG Kush Auto that was picked and put into canning jars. We have a Soda Stream CO2 injector system for making sparkling water. I have cracked the lid slightly and added CO2 to the jar and then screwed the lid back down. Is this a good idea or will it cause problems?
 
Jimster

Jimster

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I'm a new grower and recently just picked and have some autoflowers drying as well as some OG Kush Auto that was picked and put into canning jars. We have a Soda Stream CO2 injector system for making sparkling water. I have cracked the lid slightly and added CO2 to the jar and then screwed the lid back down. Is this a good idea or will it cause problems?
I don't know if it will have much of an effect unless it is pure CO2 in the jar. The curing process might be affected by it, I don't truly know. Usually CO2 is used during the growth phase. I have seen CO2/dry ice used for curing and drying, but I don't know if it was any better or worse than regular drying and curing. It was the cold from the dry ice that did most of the work, not the CO2. Make sure that your buds are dry enough before putting them into canning jars or they will turn moldy and be ruined. If wet buds are kept in a jar, the high humidity will perform a different type of cure than the typical one used. The sweat cure, as it is called, makes for yellow or golden brown buds that are pretty good if done correctly. This was most of the early buds from 60s and 70s. It began to be fast dried and evolved into the buds you see today. I never saw a green bud until 1978. It was always gold, brown, or red. Damp stuff smelled like ammonia.
Anyhow, I don't think it will matter much.
 
Saint Skinny

Saint Skinny

489
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I wrote that post to get some good growers and people with knowledge of growing I needed all you guys I'm looking for a most potent most tastiest strain there is can anyone help me please
so you just baited peeps with that question about jar curing?
 
cemchris

cemchris

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ok Im onboard. please verify or produce data that supports your position. Easy to claim harder to prove. Im interested where you got this info from bro.


I got this info from years and years of growing plants and paying attention to what they are fed. Also from individually upping and lowering specific macros on feeds per room with the same strain only changing 1 macro at a time in the last 2 years in the same rooms. This also might be different with soil vs soil-less. Those are 2 different animals. There isnt a 1 size fits all to a statement like that. Same can be said for what I said. I used to be on board with that statement and always grew the way of no to little N in flower. Same thing with veg vs flower nutes or running different schedules.

This all changed in 2012 when Chris from Hydroponic Research came around here talking about veg + bloom. Was skeptical about their claims and went back and forth in emails a couple times with him. From everything I knew over the years and chasing the best schedule with bottled nutes I though there was no way the claims were true.
Untitled


Using this 1 formula for veg and flower (this was when they had the 1 nute no boosters just strait base with a cheap computer printed label) when it had high N in it would never work. After 1 run everything I thought I knew was flipped upside down on its head (was using CNS-17 prior to that). I remember a group of dudes running T.A.G. grows (True Aero Growing) and them breaking down why they all used Dutch Master Gold nutes because of specific ppm targets they were hitting and it was so over my head at the time.

DSCN4349


That started me down the journey of running stuff like 3 part after getting off V+B (cause of the price) and to start going down the road of alternate schedules that people have used over the years to compare results while breaking down the ppm of macros/micros and comparing the effects of the end products yield/flav/look using the same clone. I had just been following the heard and going off what the pack says and never put real thought or testing into it. This lead me to where I am now and tweaking my own feed to suit my needs and style. 100ppm + of N all the way to flush in flower. In fact more N in flower then I run in veg.

Now if you were looking for scientific published papers and leaf analysis from a lab that is something I don't have. Just going off my personal experience and what I have seen and tasted with my own eyes, mouth and scales. So take that for what it is. This isnt about tooting my own horn. This is just about putting info out there to help other people. Something you are always trying to do which I love to see. I learned over the years with all the bad info out there and just trying to pay it forward from all the dudes that actually were dropping knowledge over the years but I was a younger grower and man and had too much ego to listen.

After 18 years of doing this I realized I had no clue what I was really doing when it came to nutes. Spent a good 6 months reading on specific elements and their roles and sources. Then spent a good amount of time breaking down all the PPM's of specific elements of commercial bottled nutes that I had run over the years to see why the ones I liked and had good success with worked the way they did. Found that most of my success came from running N in flower even though I always thought I wasn't. All of that was from Coco/Hydroton/Silica Rocks/Perlite grows until rockwool a couple of years ago so the control of what you are feeding has way more of an impact and you can def say if less or more of 1 specific thing has a positive or negative effect. Again amended soil is a totally different animal and none of this may apply to it since I don't run soil and have very little experience in that dept. Which goes back to what I said. Feeding N in flower does not make your weed taste grassy. Which is why I said that is false*. Maybe I should have said it's false from my own experience instead of a definitive statement like the one above. I'll admit that.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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ok Im onboard. please verify or produce data that supports your position. Easy to claim harder to prove. Im interested where you got this info from bro.


If you have not listened to this interview woth the president of dyna grow sharing his lab results of the nutrient content in marijuana. It is a half hour and very surprising.

Lower nitrogen and heavy pk are a myth. He admits to making the bloom bottle only for customer demand and not plant science.



I stopped using bloom nutes after much side by side testing in my garden a couple of years ago.

Advanced nutes offers similar test results. Search myth of PK in cannabis for other info.
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

Premium Member
Supporter
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If you have not listened to this interview woth the president of dyna grow sharing his lab results of the nutrient content in marijuana. It is a half hour and very surprising.

Lower nitrogen and heavy pk are a myth. He admits to making the bloom bottle only for customer demand and not plant science.



I stopped using bloom nutes after much side by side testing in my garden a couple of years ago.

Advanced nutes offers similar test results. Search myth of PK in cannabis for other info.
thanks brother, I will take a listen. Appreciate you man!
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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I got this info from years and years of growing plants and paying attention to what they are fed. Also from individually upping and lowering specific macros on feeds per room with the same strain only changing 1 macro at a time in the last 2 years in the same rooms. This also might be different with soil vs soil-less. Those are 2 different animals. There isnt a 1 size fits all to a statement like that. Same can be said for what I said. I used to be on board with that statement and always grew the way of no to little N in flower. Same thing with veg vs flower nutes or running different schedules.

This all changed in 2012 when Chris from Hydroponic Research came around here talking about veg + bloom. Was skeptical about their claims and went back and forth in emails a couple times with him. From everything I knew over the years and chasing the best schedule with bottled nutes I though there was no way the claims were true.
View attachment 883953

Using this 1 formula for veg and flower (this was when they had the 1 nute no boosters just strait base with a cheap computer printed label) when it had high N in it would never work. After 1 run everything I thought I knew was flipped upside down on its head (was using CNS-17 prior to that). I remember a group of dudes running T.A.G. grows (True Aero Growing) and them breaking down why they all used Dutch Master Gold nutes because of specific ppm targets they were hitting and it was so over my head at the time.

View attachment 883954

That started me down the journey of running stuff like 3 part after getting off V+B (cause of the price) and to start going down the road of alternate schedules that people have used over the years to compare results while breaking down the ppm of macros/micros and comparing the effects of the end products yield/flav/look using the same clone. I had just been following the heard and going off what the pack says and never put real thought or testing into it. This lead me to where I am now and tweaking my own feed to suit my needs and style. 100ppm + of N all the way to flush in flower. In fact more N in flower then I run in veg.

Now if you were looking for scientific published papers and leaf analysis from a lab that is something I don't have. Just going off my personal experience and what I have seen and tasted with my own eyes, mouth and scales. So take that for what it is. This isnt about tooting my own horn. This is just about putting info out there to help other people. Something you are always trying to do which I love to see. I learned over the years with all the bad info out there and just trying to pay it forward from all the dudes that actually were dropping knowledge over the years but I was a younger grower and man and had too much ego to listen.

After 18 years of doing this I realized I had no clue what I was really doing when it came to nutes. Spent a good 6 months reading on specific elements and their roles and sources. Then spent a good amount of time breaking down all the PPM's of specific elements of commercial bottled nutes that I had run over the years to see why the ones I liked and had good success with worked the way they did. Found that most of my success came from running N in flower even though I always thought I wasn't. All of that was from Coco/Hydroton/Silica Rocks/Perlite grows until rockwool a couple of years ago so the control of what you are feeding has way more of an impact and you can def say if less or more of 1 specific thing has a positive or negative effect. Again amended soil is a totally different animal and none of this may apply to it since I don't run soil and have very little experience in that dept. Which goes back to what I said. Feeding N in flower does not make your weed taste grassy. Which is why I said that is false*. Maybe I should have said it's false from my own experience instead of a definitive statement like the one above. I'll admit that.
Thanks Cemchris thats some fat azz colas right there. :)
 
Ace9137

Ace9137

342
93
I got this info from years and years of growing plants and paying attention to what they are fed. Also from individually upping and lowering specific macros on feeds per room with the same strain only changing 1 macro at a time in the last 2 years in the same rooms. This also might be different with soil vs soil-less. Those are 2 different animals. There isnt a 1 size fits all to a statement like that. Same can be said for what I said. I used to be on board with that statement and always grew the way of no to little N in flower. Same thing with veg vs flower nutes or running different schedules.

This all changed in 2012 when Chris from Hydroponic Research came around here talking about veg + bloom. Was skeptical about their claims and went back and forth in emails a couple times with him. From everything I knew over the years and chasing the best schedule with bottled nutes I though there was no way the claims were true.
View attachment 883953

Using this 1 formula for veg and flower (this was when they had the 1 nute no boosters just strait base with a cheap computer printed label) when it had high N in it would never work. After 1 run everything I thought I knew was flipped upside down on its head (was using CNS-17 prior to that). I remember a group of dudes running T.A.G. grows (True Aero Growing) and them breaking down why they all used Dutch Master Gold nutes because of specific ppm targets they were hitting and it was so over my head at the time.

View attachment 883954

That started me down the journey of running stuff like 3 part after getting off V+B (cause of the price) and to start going down the road of alternate schedules that people have used over the years to compare results while breaking down the ppm of macros/micros and comparing the effects of the end products yield/flav/look using the same clone. I had just been following the heard and going off what the pack says and never put real thought or testing into it. This lead me to where I am now and tweaking my own feed to suit my needs and style. 100ppm + of N all the way to flush in flower. In fact more N in flower then I run in veg.

Now if you were looking for scientific published papers and leaf analysis from a lab that is something I don't have. Just going off my personal experience and what I have seen and tasted with my own eyes, mouth and scales. So take that for what it is. This isnt about tooting my own horn. This is just about putting info out there to help other people. Something you are always trying to do which I love to see. I learned over the years with all the bad info out there and just trying to pay it forward from all the dudes that actually were dropping knowledge over the years but I was a younger grower and man and had too much ego to listen.

After 18 years of doing this I realized I had no clue what I was really doing when it came to nutes. Spent a good 6 months reading on specific elements and their roles and sources. Then spent a good amount of time breaking down all the PPM's of specific elements of commercial bottled nutes that I had run over the years to see why the ones I liked and had good success with worked the way they did. Found that most of my success came from running N in flower even though I always thought I wasn't. All of that was from Coco/Hydroton/Silica Rocks/Perlite grows until rockwool a couple of years ago so the control of what you are feeding has way more of an impact and you can def say if less or more of 1 specific thing has a positive or negative effect. Again amended soil is a totally different animal and none of this may apply to it since I don't run soil and have very little experience in that dept. Which goes back to what I said. Feeding N in flower does not make your weed taste grassy. Which is why I said that is false*. Maybe I should have said it's false from my own experience instead of a definitive statement like the one above. I'll admit that.
I was messing around a couple of years ago and found out that I had bigger frostier buds when I used more nitrogen in flower.
 
London bud

London bud

559
143
Well I suppose it's a matter of striking a balance, some people may get away with a bit of N during flower but if your harvesting plants full of dark green leaves your weeds gonna taste like shit. curing can't sort it. If anybody claims to be cutting plants that are still lush and dark green and still end up getting proper dank bud I don't believe it.
If someone cut plants like that and thought the weed tastes ok theyd smoke anything. Personally I'm not interested in grassy weed at all even if it does still get you high. The plant has to be fading and finishing if you want that instant potent impact when you smell it.
just my opinion based on my experiences
 
cemchris

cemchris

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If you have not listened to this interview woth the president of dyna grow sharing his lab results of the nutrient content in marijuana. It is a half hour and very surprising.

Lower nitrogen and heavy pk are a myth. He admits to making the bloom bottle only for customer demand and not plant science.



I stopped using bloom nutes after much side by side testing in my garden a couple of years ago.

Advanced nutes offers similar test results. Search myth of PK in cannabis for other info.

That's what is up. I remember seeing that paper from Advanced, of all people, saying the same thing. Yet people still buy PK by the truck load when epsom (S & Mg) is 10x cheaper and 10x better. We had that discussion in the other thread about P and that's a whole different can of worms with the current mindset. I love talking nutes and ratio's all day still learning and adsorbing a ton. This is getting way off topic tho for this thread.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

17,190
438
That's what is up. I remember seeing that paper from Advanced, of all people, saying the same thing. Yet people still buy PK by the truck load when epsom (S & Mg) is 10x cheaper and 10x better. We had that discussion in the other thread about P and that's a whole different can of worms with the current mindset. I love talking nutes and ratio's all day still learning and adsorbing a ton. This is getting way off topic tho for this thread.


Eh every thread gets derailed eventually. Lol


Dyna grow advertises in RIU now. They show a starter box with multiple bottles including bloom. Even though the pres said only foliage pro and silica are needed.


Good thing most dont read much anymore.
 
cemchris

cemchris

Supporter
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Eh every thread gets derailed eventually. Lol


Dyna grow advertises in RIU now. They show a starter box with multiple bottles including bloom. Even though the pres said only foliage pro and silica are needed.


Good thing most dont read much anymore.

It's nice to see people heed the info and the tribe of people running Foliage pro. I remember when that started to catch on and the success they were having and the light bulb moment, like I myself, had. Even in the OG, HG420, IC, CW days saying the same thing and people just arguing till they were blue in the face saying they were wrong.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

17,190
438
It's nice to see people heed the info and the tribe of people running Foliage pro. I remember when that started to catch on and the success they were having and the light bulb moment, like I myself, had. Even in the OG, HG420, IC, CW days saying the same thing and people just arguing till they were blue in the face saying they were wrong.


Heres a funny fact. In jorje cervantes old grow book he shows some different nutes. To be used alone. Some are bloom ratio and some veg or general. He says that all the ratios work. No mention of switching during flowering.
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

Supporter
2,634
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It's nice to see people heed the info and the tribe of people running Foliage pro. I remember when that started to catch on and the success they were having and the light bulb moment, like I myself, had. Even in the OG, HG420, IC, CW days saying the same thing and people just arguing till they were blue in the face saying they were wrong.
Good ole Hg420 rip. Was some adamant characters there but good info also
 

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