JACKS BACK!!! Capulators new formulas.

[Capulator]

Hey cap... is this your new formula:

Jacks Hydro
CaNO3
MKP
K2SO4
Silica

You cut out: (wondering if you mind sharing why you cut these out?)

MOST
CaCl2
Epson Salt

You run the adjusted formula at 80% in veg then ramp up in flower?

Thanks brother.

Getting ready to put in an order of salts and want to make sure I get my list right. Going to run half and half... Salts and organic with your packs in 50/50 Chowmix.

LOL... all confused now. Was wondering if you can pm or post up here how you are running things. Veg/ flower. Only reason is I have seen several formulas in the thread. Hope I am not bugging brother.

I never cut out the MOST, just cut it down.

I never cut out CaCl2. I run between .07 and .25 of that.

I never cut out epsom salt either. I run .5- 1.0 grams per gallon.

 

[konakings]

Hey Cap can you post your new updated formula for everyone? The final word with what you use and how you adjust for veg/bloom. Couple different posts here and I would like it right from the source. Also would you use drip clean and Moab Powder?

I am in coco with recirculating ebb and flow. So, I would also like to know what you would ph the solution to as well. Thanks Bud!~

Hey there just followed your link to ebay. Nice will be ordering these soon.

 

[Capulator]

Hey Cap can you post your new updated formula for everyone? The final word with what you use and how you adjust for veg/bloom. Couple different posts here and I would like it right from the source. Also would you use drip clean and Moab Powder?

I am in coco with recirculating ebb and flow. So, I would also like to know what you would ph the solution to as well. Thanks Bud!~

Hey there just followed your link to ebay. Nice will be ordering these soon.

I run my coco/hydroton around 6.0 give or take. I am currently testing CS nutes, but am also starting another jacks run. I will post what I am running, but the problem is this Colombian I havent gotten her down yet. She always starts browning in this system at like week 4. I'm gonn ago lighter on the nutes this time with more frequent change outs and maybe a flush or two in between to see where that gets me.

 

[juggernaut]

Hey Cap I am going to try out Your formula with Jacks but I can't find your totals for the flowering receipe. I have the first one that was veg and first 4 weeks of flower then u updated the formula with a new receipe to cover just the frist 4 weeks of flower.
Anyway you could post all of your complete receipes for veg and flower)and the weeks they should be used.
Thankyou
Very much appreciated.

 

[Capulator]

Hey Cap I am going to try out Your formula with Jacks but I can't find your totals for the flowering receipe. I have the first one that was veg and first 4 weeks of flower then u updated the formula with a new receipe to cover just the frist 4 weeks of flower.
Anyway you could post all of your complete receipes for veg and flower)and the weeks they should be used.
Thankyou
Very much appreciated.

If you are looking at the formula on page one you can use that and then just add 0.5 grams per gallon of blossom booster.

Then in weeks 2, 7,8 you can cut the all the base by half and use homemade MOAB. I think the recipe for that is in this thread. If you can't find it let me know.

 

[Capulator]

Hey Cap I am going to try out Your formula with Jacks but I can't find your totals for the flowering receipe. I have the first one that was veg and first 4 weeks of flower then u updated the formula with a new receipe to cover just the frist 4 weeks of flower.
Anyway you could post all of your complete receipes for veg and flower)and the weeks they should be used.
Thankyou
Very much appreciated.

POST 55 is the MOAB recipe.

 

[El Cerebro]

Yep, for RO in hydro, im not fighting for that belief, so don't kill the messenger. Jr rep stated 1 1/2 tsp pr 25gal of full 5-12-26 3.7 (3.69) and 2.44 CaNo3, I'll call again, perhaps someone else can as well to put this to rest, I'll record the call this time, perhaps I misunderstood, however I do recall repeating it over again as I was writing it down.

I backed way off the nutes and flushed 3 days after a change from some burn I thought was from a medication induced Cl overdose lol, perhaps it was due to the most, i back way down regardless but like Cap says it looks high due to a one time dunk at .56g/gal.

I do think we need to put this to a resolution as like I believe El Ceribro pointed out (may be wrong) there have been "most" figures all over the place with Jr peters, Ive seen as low as .007.

now with that said I run about 60% for the way I flower. so that translates to, 2.12g (5-12-26)and 1.46 CaNo3 pr/gal, Most has fluctuated betwen .05, .1, and now with the 60% (.25g) recommendation from jr peters rep. so I have in no way been consistent and another reason for making a stock so I can look for burn and back it down.

finding myself back here^ again, anyone have further observations? i'm currently on a quest to bring total ppms down, and got to thinking about influence of micros.

kept calibrating mine between 5-7.5 ppm iron (.28-.42/G), and frankly thinking if Cap is still doing fine at much lower rates then why not..

 

[azmmjadvocates]

finding myself back here^ again, anyone have further observations? i'm currently on a quest to bring total ppms down, and got to thinking about influence of micros.

kept calibrating mine between 5-7.5 ppm iron (.28-.42/G), and frankly thinking if Cap is still doing fine at much lower rates then why not..

If you drop the ppm's significantly is it due to environmental changes you have made as well for higher uptake?

Squigglys suggestion on another post was to limit the Iron EDTA, I've seen much higher with good results but I think it's strain specific. I've pretty much cut the "most" down to most nothing lol,.. I did think along the lines of boosting some iron, and have in the past, but find myself going back down, but i only run one strain at a time, 2 related strains I know real well at most at one time. Keep an eye on the CaCl as well, as cannabis is one of the plants sensitive from what fatman states.

Cap had that problem with that particular plant, I'm wondering if it wasn't due to that. I was doing some research from Iowa university that stated plants along the roadways show magnesium deficiency it was from the CaCl. From what I recall though it is the most mobile as a folier for Calcium deficiencies.

The part about it becoming toxic was from a fatman thread where people were using aquarium chlorine removal drops to treat their water intead or RO.. Those drops change the chlorine (which is not toxic to plants but is to fish) to CaCl which is not toxic to fish but is in cannabis sensitive strains especially if stacked, and takes a long time to dissipate as well.

Most people seem to be running multiple strains, so a base solution that is a tad light but within range is better IMHO if you are running multiple strains. That way anything that shows for a deficiency, is just that and not mis diagnosed. If the majority of strains are doing just fine then we can supplement the others on a as needed basis for that particular plant, perhaps folliar, if it's DTW an eye dropper.

Otherwise we keep chasing our tails making adjustments.

 

[Capulator]

If you drop the ppm's significantly is it due to environmental changes you have made as well for higher uptake?

Squigglys suggestion on another post was to limit the Iron EDTA, I've seen much higher with good results but I think it's strain specific. I've pretty much cut the "most" down to most nothing lol,.. I did think along the lines of boosting some iron, and have in the past, but find myself going back down, but i only run one strain at a time, 2 related strains I know real well at most at one time. Keep an eye on the CaCl as well, as cannabis is one of the plants sensitive from what fatman states.

Cap had that problem with that particular plant, I'm wondering if it wasn't due to that. I was doing some research from Iowa university that stated plants along the roadways show magnesium deficiency it was from the CaCl. From what I recall though it is the most mobile as a folier for Calcium deficiencies.

The part about it becoming toxic was from a fatman thread where people were using aquarium chlorine removal drops to treat their water intead or RO.. Those drops change the chlorine (which is not toxic to plants but is to fish) to CaCl which is not toxic to fish but is in cannabis sensitive strains especially if stacked, and takes a long time to dissipate as well.

Most people seem to be running multiple strains, so a base solution that is a tad light but within range is better IMHO if you are running multiple strains. That way anything that shows for a deficiency, is just that and not mis diagnosed. If the majority of strains are doing just fine then we can supplement the others on a as needed basis for that particular plant, perhaps folliar, if it's DTW an eye dropper.

Otherwise we keep chasing our tails making adjustments.

I'm running jacks with no CaCl2 at the moment and the colombian girls are getting shitty brown leaf spots again at week 3-4. Third time in a row now and only in my ebb flo setup. I think it actually may be too much light believe it or not.

I am running Cultured SOlutions in my MPB and the plants look fucking amazing. 300ppm.

No need for high ppms. Do your res changes either when the plants have drank 1/2 the water, or once a week.

I am currently running jacks in my coco at 700ppm and they look great. I am feeding DTW, for about 15-20 seconds every hour. 5 12 gallon containers are getting 35 gallons every 2-3 days. Then, they get water for 2-3 days... then they get food again... etc.. I give tea once a week. These plants are also looking superb. I will post up some pics.

I am about to switch over to regular dechlorinated tap too. The RO is too wasteful.

 

[Capulator]

finding myself back here^ again, anyone have further observations? i'm currently on a quest to bring total ppms down, and got to thinking about influence of micros.

kept calibrating mine between 5-7.5 ppm iron (.28-.42/G), and frankly thinking if Cap is still doing fine at much lower rates then why not..

I am running just a tiny bit of MOST still. I have not seen any downside to this.

 

[azmmjadvocates]

I'm running jacks with no CaCl2 at the moment and the colombian girls are getting shitty brown leaf spots again at week 3-4. Third time in a row now and only in my ebb flo setup. I think it actually may be too much light believe it or not.

I am running Cultured SOlutions in my MPB and the plants look fucking amazing. 300ppm.

No need for high ppms. Do your res changes either when the plants have drank 1/2 the water, or once a week.

I am currently running jacks in my coco at 700ppm and they look great. I am feeding DTW, for about 15-20 seconds every hour. 5 12 gallon containers are getting 35 gallons every 2-3 days. Then, they get water for 2-3 days... then they get food again... etc.. I give tea once a week. These plants are also looking superb. I will post up some pics.

I am about to switch over to regular dechlorinated tap too. The RO is too wasteful.

I actually do believe it. I've had that same problem as well with a sativa strain I bread with a Bubba. Even shot a plant training video of how remarkable the plats were hotrodding up to that point, they looked amazing., then at week 4 (you could almost set your clock to it), top largest fan leaves first mottling, flush, progression, interveinal narcrosis, flush, progressing, crispy critters, tried everything under the sun, dialed down the light. Things improved with the new plants so just kept them to the outside.

What bulb are you using? There was a guy a while back that had problems with the horitie 600 eye bulb getting black on one side, apparently those bulbs do best with a analog ballast, digital ballasts effect the wave length or something to that effect off the top of my head.. I had one as well and swear the plants didn't like it so switched it out with the ushio hilix gro I usually use..

I run real low ppm's as well but have to due to the amount of H20 the girls are pumping, I run RO that is half recirculating, half DTW.. I run 2 resiviours one is "A" DTW and the ohter "B" recirculating that basically just receives the drain from "A". The Resevior barrels are interchangeable with my control bucket I built with backup safety switches and more efficient draining system.

I do have concerns as well for wasted H20 but am saving for the newer RO system that recaptures the waste water, and I buy half my Ro from store machines. I don't dump my rez when the plants use up a percentage of h20 (although that is one way to do it), since I run low RH, I filter and chlorinate my recaptured h20 the plants transpire in my dehui. I dump that back into the recirculating second rez. "B" which is connected to the drain side pump in my control bucket that fills from the DTW REZ "A" . This keep the ph under more control in the Recirculation rez B as well as giving the plants a couple days (or more, depending on medium) of pure DTW solution. Then after adding fresh clorinated, distilled, re filtered (zero rez filter) water from the dehuie, I top off nutes to the EC I want and switch hoses.

This gives me a lot more control, on that particular portion of my system. My buckets are aslo designed to easily be removed to independent care should they need to be.

 

[azmmjadvocates]

I have received a couple PM's about the CaCl2 fatman thread link so instead of replying separately I'll post it that way it will benefit all. link is provided to original threads and boards. And I stand corrected after re-reading it the chlorine nutralizer changes it to sodium Chloride not Calcium Cloride. however the toxic part is still accurate for Chlorides and Cannabis.

CaCl2 Calcium Chloride




http://www.invalid.com/hydroponics-aeroponics/318092-flooding-3-tables-one-rez.html#post3993799

Apparently posting a link automatically changes it, I guess you will have to search the thread post or RIU from the board it originated.

Fatman:
It is chlorides that are toxic to plants not chlorine. The chlorine and chloramine added to drinking water does not turn into chlorides, unless you foolishly use an aquarium chlorine "neutralizer" that turns the chlorine into sodium chloride. Fish can tolerate chloride and quite a bit of sodium but not chlorine. IE you can not belive a ot of the things you read in forums or hear at Hydro shops.

aquarium dechlorinators/neutralizers. Chlorine will leave the water as a gas all by then selves given just a small amount of time. The chlorine in Chloroamine takes just a bit more time. The amine is just ammonia and can remain in the nutrient reservoir as it is a very small amount and will either be used by the plants or get dumped out with the next reservoir change. Most aquarium (nearly all) chlorine treatment chemicals actually prevent this from happening.

Monochloroamine has to be broken down into chlorine and nitrogen before the chlorine can dissipate. That takes 5 to 10 days commonly versus chlorines 1 to 2 days.

 

[El Cerebro]

If you drop the ppm's significantly is it due to environmental changes you have made as well for higher uptake?

you askin me why? here's my answer, you said it:

Most people seem to be running multiple strains, so a base solution that is a tad light but within range is better IMHO if you are running multiple strains. That way anything that shows for a deficiency, is just that and not mis diagnosed. If the majority of strains are doing just fine then we can supplement the others on a as needed basis for that particular plant, perhaps folliar, if it's DTW an eye dropper.

Otherwise we keep chasing our tails making adjustments.

 

[El Cerebro]

any speculation on a generally safe elemental ceiling for chloride?

 

[azmmjadvocates]

you askin me why? here's my answer, you said it:

Cool, I hope you didn't just say why somewhere else and I forgot or was to lazy to read lol..I'm getting sloppy, It's been a rough ride for me lately, people keep kicking the bucket, it's getting scary, any-rate glad were on the same wave length.

 

[azmmjadvocates]

I have received a couple PM's about the CaCl2 fatman thread link so instead of replying separately I'll post it that way it will benefit all. link is provided to original threads and boards. And I stand corrected after re-reading it the chlorine nutralizer changes it to sodium Chloride not Calcium Cloride. however the toxic part is still accurate for Chlorides and Cannabis.

CaCl2 Calcium Chloride






Apparently posting a link automatically changes it, I guess you will have to search the thread post or RIU from the board it originated.

Fatman:
It is chlorides that are toxic to plants not chlorine. The chlorine and chloramine added to drinking water does not turn into chlorides, unless you foolishly use an aquarium chlorine "neutralizer" that turns the chlorine into sodium chloride. Fish can tolerate chloride and quite a bit of sodium but not chlorine. IE you can not belive a ot of the things you read in forums or hear at Hydro shops.

aquarium dechlorinators/neutralizers. Chlorine will leave the water as a gas all by then selves given just a small amount of time. The chlorine in Chloroamine takes just a bit more time. The amine is just ammonia and can remain in the nutrient reservoir as it is a very small amount and will either be used by the plants or get dumped out with the next reservoir change. Most aquarium (nearly all) chlorine treatment chemicals actually prevent this from happening.

Monochloroamine has to be broken down into chlorine and nitrogen before the chlorine can dissipate. That takes 5 to 10 days commonly versus chlorines 1 to 2 days.

I did a bunch of reasearch after reading what fatman wrote on the subject and found statements from chloride manufactures who stated it was an essential nutrient but after digging in their own statements found they state how mobile and highly soluable it is. That subsequently led me to the same conclusion as phosphorus, that i't's basically washed away in nature. ie a sales gimic.


Chlorides also don't play well with nitrate, sulfate, borate, and molybdate which are also anions. they compete with nitrate uptake NO3. toxic symptoms are Leaf margins are scorched and abscission is excessive.

Leaf/leaflet size is reduced and may appear to be thickened.Overall plant growth is reduced. Chloride accumulation is higher in older tissue than in newly matured leaves.

 

[Capulator]

Fatman specifically told me to run .28 grams CaCl2 FWIW.

 

[azmmjadvocates]

any speculation on a generally safe elemental ceiling for chloride?

I'll have to dig through my notes, I just use folier if I think there is a Calcium problem that I don't want to address with a bump of CaNo3. it seem to respond the fastest IMHO. The other issue is that some plant species are more tolerant than others and is a question I'd like to ask fatman if I ever get the chance. It's my presumption that he has data related to tolerance specific to Cannabis. I'll get back with you but I recall some Cacl2 specifit research applied to plants with differing tolerances, cannabis wasn't one of them though.

 

[azmmjadvocates]

Fatman specifically told me to run .28 grams CaCl2 FWIW.

Cool, didn't see this until I posted, so was that specific to the jacks recipe you worked up this run? did he give any cautions?

 

[Capulator]

he told me to be careful. I wanted to add 25 ppm of Ca. He told me how.