Capulator
likes to smell trees.
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Hey cap... is this your new formula:
Jacks Hydro
CaNO3
MKP
K2SO4
Silica
You cut out: (wondering if you mind sharing why you cut these out?)
MOST
CaCl2
Epson Salt
You run the adjusted formula at 80% in veg then ramp up in flower?
Thanks brother.
Getting ready to put in an order of salts and want to make sure I get my list right. Going to run half and half... Salts and organic with your packs in 50/50 Chowmix.
LOL... all confused now. Was wondering if you can pm or post up here how you are running things. Veg/ flower. Only reason is I have seen several formulas in the thread. Hope I am not bugging brother.
Hey Cap can you post your new updated formula for everyone? The final word with what you use and how you adjust for veg/bloom. Couple different posts here and I would like it right from the source. Also would you use drip clean and Moab Powder?
I am in coco with recirculating ebb and flow. So, I would also like to know what you would ph the solution to as well. Thanks Bud!~
Hey there just followed your link to ebay. Nice will be ordering these soon.
Hey Cap I am going to try out Your formula with Jacks but I can't find your totals for the flowering receipe. I have the first one that was veg and first 4 weeks of flower then u updated the formula with a new receipe to cover just the frist 4 weeks of flower.
Anyway you could post all of your complete receipes for veg and flower)and the weeks they should be used.
Thankyou
Very much appreciated.
Hey Cap I am going to try out Your formula with Jacks but I can't find your totals for the flowering receipe. I have the first one that was veg and first 4 weeks of flower then u updated the formula with a new receipe to cover just the frist 4 weeks of flower.
Anyway you could post all of your complete receipes for veg and flower)and the weeks they should be used.
Thankyou
Very much appreciated.
finding myself back here^ again, anyone have further observations? i'm currently on a quest to bring total ppms down, and got to thinking about influence of micros.Yep, for RO in hydro, im not fighting for that belief, so don't kill the messenger. Jr rep stated 1 1/2 tsp pr 25gal of full 5-12-26 3.7 (3.69) and 2.44 CaNo3, I'll call again, perhaps someone else can as well to put this to rest, I'll record the call this time, perhaps I misunderstood, however I do recall repeating it over again as I was writing it down.
I backed way off the nutes and flushed 3 days after a change from some burn I thought was from a medication induced Cl overdose lol, perhaps it was due to the most, i back way down regardless but like Cap says it looks high due to a one time dunk at .56g/gal.
I do think we need to put this to a resolution as like I believe El Ceribro pointed out (may be wrong) there have been "most" figures all over the place with Jr peters, Ive seen as low as .007.
now with that said I run about 60% for the way I flower. so that translates to, 2.12g (5-12-26)and 1.46 CaNo3 pr/gal, Most has fluctuated betwen .05, .1, and now with the 60% (.25g) recommendation from jr peters rep. so I have in no way been consistent and another reason for making a stock so I can look for burn and back it down.
finding myself back here^ again, anyone have further observations? i'm currently on a quest to bring total ppms down, and got to thinking about influence of micros.
kept calibrating mine between 5-7.5 ppm iron (.28-.42/G), and frankly thinking if Cap is still doing fine at much lower rates then why not..
If you drop the ppm's significantly is it due to environmental changes you have made as well for higher uptake?
Squigglys suggestion on another post was to limit the Iron EDTA, I've seen much higher with good results but I think it's strain specific. I've pretty much cut the "most" down to most nothing lol,.. I did think along the lines of boosting some iron, and have in the past, but find myself going back down, but i only run one strain at a time, 2 related strains I know real well at most at one time. Keep an eye on the CaCl as well, as cannabis is one of the plants sensitive from what fatman states.
Cap had that problem with that particular plant, I'm wondering if it wasn't due to that. I was doing some research from Iowa university that stated plants along the roadways show magnesium deficiency it was from the CaCl. From what I recall though it is the most mobile as a folier for Calcium deficiencies.
The part about it becoming toxic was from a fatman thread where people were using aquarium chlorine removal drops to treat their water intead or RO.. Those drops change the chlorine (which is not toxic to plants but is to fish) to CaCl which is not toxic to fish but is in cannabis sensitive strains especially if stacked, and takes a long time to dissipate as well.
Most people seem to be running multiple strains, so a base solution that is a tad light but within range is better IMHO if you are running multiple strains. That way anything that shows for a deficiency, is just that and not mis diagnosed. If the majority of strains are doing just fine then we can supplement the others on a as needed basis for that particular plant, perhaps folliar, if it's DTW an eye dropper.
Otherwise we keep chasing our tails making adjustments.
finding myself back here^ again, anyone have further observations? i'm currently on a quest to bring total ppms down, and got to thinking about influence of micros.
kept calibrating mine between 5-7.5 ppm iron (.28-.42/G), and frankly thinking if Cap is still doing fine at much lower rates then why not..
I'm running jacks with no CaCl2 at the moment and the colombian girls are getting shitty brown leaf spots again at week 3-4. Third time in a row now and only in my ebb flo setup. I think it actually may be too much light believe it or not.
I am running Cultured SOlutions in my MPB and the plants look fucking amazing. 300ppm.
No need for high ppms. Do your res changes either when the plants have drank 1/2 the water, or once a week.
I am currently running jacks in my coco at 700ppm and they look great. I am feeding DTW, for about 15-20 seconds every hour. 5 12 gallon containers are getting 35 gallons every 2-3 days. Then, they get water for 2-3 days... then they get food again... etc.. I give tea once a week. These plants are also looking superb. I will post up some pics.
I am about to switch over to regular dechlorinated tap too. The RO is too wasteful.
If you drop the ppm's significantly is it due to environmental changes you have made as well for higher uptake?
Most people seem to be running multiple strains, so a base solution that is a tad light but within range is better IMHO if you are running multiple strains. That way anything that shows for a deficiency, is just that and not mis diagnosed. If the majority of strains are doing just fine then we can supplement the others on a as needed basis for that particular plant, perhaps folliar, if it's DTW an eye dropper.
Otherwise we keep chasing our tails making adjustments.
Cool, I hope you didn't just say why somewhere else and I forgot or was to lazy to read lol..I'm getting sloppy, It's been a rough ride for me lately, people keep kicking the bucket, it's getting scary, any-rate glad were on the same wave length.you askin me why? here's my answer, you said it:
I have received a couple PM's about the CaCl2 fatman thread link so instead of replying separately I'll post it that way it will benefit all. link is provided to original threads and boards. And I stand corrected after re-reading it the chlorine nutralizer changes it to sodium Chloride not Calcium Cloride. however the toxic part is still accurate for Chlorides and Cannabis.
CaCl2 Calcium Chloride
Apparently posting a link automatically changes it, I guess you will have to search the thread post or RIU from the board it originated.
Fatman:
It is chlorides that are toxic to plants not chlorine. The chlorine and chloramine added to drinking water does not turn into chlorides, unless you foolishly use an aquarium chlorine "neutralizer" that turns the chlorine into sodium chloride. Fish can tolerate chloride and quite a bit of sodium but not chlorine. IE you can not belive a ot of the things you read in forums or hear at Hydro shops.
aquarium dechlorinators/neutralizers. Chlorine will leave the water as a gas all by then selves given just a small amount of time. The chlorine in Chloroamine takes just a bit more time. The amine is just ammonia and can remain in the nutrient reservoir as it is a very small amount and will either be used by the plants or get dumped out with the next reservoir change. Most aquarium (nearly all) chlorine treatment chemicals actually prevent this from happening.
Monochloroamine has to be broken down into chlorine and nitrogen before the chlorine can dissipate. That takes 5 to 10 days commonly versus chlorines 1 to 2 days.
I'll have to dig through my notes, I just use folier if I think there is a Calcium problem that I don't want to address with a bump of CaNo3. it seem to respond the fastest IMHO. The other issue is that some plant species are more tolerant than others and is a question I'd like to ask fatman if I ever get the chance. It's my presumption that he has data related to tolerance specific to Cannabis. I'll get back with you but I recall some Cacl2 specifit research applied to plants with differing tolerances, cannabis wasn't one of them though.any speculation on a generally safe elemental ceiling for chloride?
Fatman specifically told me to run .28 grams CaCl2 FWIW.
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