Kingbrite review

[BigCube]

Seems like lots of us have gone with kingbrite lately. I for one, am still very happy with my purchases. I'm thinking of buying more to outfit my other tent.

But it will probably be a veg tent now. I cant keep up to 2 tents worth of bud. I gave a HP of white widow away a few weeks ago, just cause I cant smoke it as fast as I'm growing it.

Right now I veg under led bulbs

what did you pay including shipping for the 2 240's?

Landed in vancouver at my door, $405.

 

[BigCube]

UV & IR diodes in the boards is not wise, you have just lowered the boards lifespan by 50% if not 70%

I tend to agree with this assessment. While you can still use your board after the red and blue burn out, its lost wattage.

Moreover, the lm301 efficiency makes every watt you use from your driver on red or blue, almost doubles the amount if light lost not having the lm301 LEDs use that wattage.

Thus is why I choose to supplement and not have them "on board".

 

[maximusluminous]

I tend to agree with this assessment. While you can still use your board after the red and blue burn out, its lost wattage.

Moreover, the lm301 efficiency makes every watt you use from your driver on red or blue, almost doubles the amount if light lost not having the lm301 LEDs use that wattage.

Thus is why I choose to supplement and not have them "on board".

and that is a very smart decision on your part! I'm right with your thinking!

 

[basscaptain]

I have decided on 2 x 600w LM301H + Epistar 660nm.

I want to do a review of the boards in the more affordable price bracket. Once you add Cree to the LM301H boards it starts getting more expensive, to the point new growers will not feel comfortable with that level of cost up front.

For two 600w LM301H with 660nm Epistar it will cost $982. This includes shipping. For the Cree it would cost at least $1200 with shipping.

I run the cheaper 301b top bin also I have 3 diff ones and I have 5 of the qb boards.......

I would pay the extra for the cree if the $$ wasn't a problem just like I tell EVERYONE Else.........

 

[basscaptain]

UV & IR diodes in the boards is not wise, you have just lowered the boards lifespan by 50% if not 70%

I don't agree..... there running by them self's and have nothing to do with the white's

 

[maximusluminous]

I don't agree..... there running by them self's and have nothing to do with the white's

but when they go out the power allotted to them isn't redirected to the whites so the system efficiency & power has dropped, its like using an HPS bulb that has been used for a year already, its not near as good as a new bulb in efficiency & spectrum... is this wrong?

 

[basscaptain]

but when they go out the power allotted to them isn't redirected to the whites so the system efficiency & power has dropped, its like using an HPS bulb that has been used for a year already, its not near as good as a new bulb in efficiency & spectrum... is this wrong?

how is this bruning my light up??? If anything it is saving my light cause it's not running 100%.......... and I don't run mine 100% most the time anyways......

all your saying is I'm pushing 200w at 100% in white not 240w... so the other 40 w is red and ua....... it's Not killing my Light by 50-70%.............in life span................................

 

[Buzzer777]

how is this bruning my light up??? If anything it is saving my light cause it's not running 100%.......... and I don't run mine 100% most the time anyways......

all your saying is I'm pushing 200w at 100% in white not 240w... so the other 40 w is red and ua....... it's Not killing my Light by 50-70%.............in life span................................

And since there have been ZERO reports of anything burning up on Kingbrites..it is a moot point at best.

 

[basscaptain]

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/kingbrite-hlg-quantum-board-grow-light_62293569847.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-bn-b.0.0.1b712fc2VC33jr#

 

[basscaptain]

this is the light you want if your looking Cheap in the 3500k

This product is no longer available.

This product is no longer available.

www.alibaba.com

 

[basscaptain]

I Like how they split these up

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[maximusluminous]

And maybe you guys can confirm or deny this.. Every par testing I have seen done with 4 board kingbrite setups vs the HLG 550 set up (both at the same power) the kingbrite needs to be 3-4" closer to the canopy to achieve the same PPFD level of the HLG 550 at 3-4" higher... are all these tests bogus? These were not side by side tests, just people posting videos online of how well their new lights work. like the HLG (in a grow tent) needs to be 24" to get a center reading of not over 1000 (like 980), where as the king brites need to be at 20" to hit that same PPFD.. I know meters can vary & all so how accurate are these results? People with kingbrites seem to like the #'s as do the HLG people. if the #'s are true then does that not prove the kingbrites are not exactly what they claim they are, something is different if there is a 4" difference with the PPFD

how is this bruning my light up??? If anything it is saving my light cause it's not running 100%.......... and I don't run mine 100% most the time anyways......

all your saying is I'm pushing 200w at 100% in white not 240w... so the other 40 w is red and ua....... it's Not killing my Light by 50-70%.............in life span................................

once it doesn't work as it was made to work its toast in my book or else I would run HID bulbs for 2 years.. Thats just me, but I changed bulbs every other harvest too, not knocking the way anyone else does it or the way anyone else feels about it.

 

[basscaptain]

Ok I'll Leave Now..... Oh Deal With

Vicky Song @ KingBrite for your Lighting Needs......................................................

 

[BigCube]

I look at it like this:

You have a driver at say 240w.

Lm301 chips are up to 80% more efficient than standard leds. Red and blue leds are up to 80% less efficient than REGULAR white LEDs. Much less efficient than a lm301.

Every watt you spend on red or blue is equal to at least 2 or 3 times less light than that of just lm301 chips. Color aside.

It's TRUE that your red and blue LEDs crapping out will not effect your white light. But in my view, just having the red and blue on the same driver is effecting your output. It is wattage better spent on more efficient, longer lasting light.

Specially when it's easy to supplement.
Just buy some supplemental red and or blue, and replace them when they crap out. it also equals more overall light since the red is in top of the 240w not including it.

Also I can have my red (and I do) on a separate timer. So it's not on all day. Only about 5 hours a day in mid to late flower.

 

[maximusluminous]

I look at it like this:

You have a driver at say 240w.

Lm301 chips are up to 80% more efficient than standard leds. Red and blue leds are up to 80% less efficient than REGULAR white LEDs. Much less efficient than a lm301.

Every watt you spend on red or blue is equal to at least 2 or 3 times less light than that of just lm301 chips. Color aside.

It's TRUE that your red and blue LEDs crapping out will not effect your white light. But in my view, just having the red and blue on the same driver is effecting your output. It is wattage better spent on more efficient, longer lasting light.

Specially when it's easy to supplement.
Just buy some supplemental red and or blue, and replace them when they crap out. it also equals more overall light since the red is in top of the 240w not including it.

Also I can have my red (and I do) on a separate timer. So it's not on all day. Only about 5 hours a day in mid to late flower.

a white diode is a blue diode with a phosphor coating, how does a phosphor coating make a white LED (which is a blue LED with a phosphor coating) 80% more efficient than the very blue diode it was made from? I'm calling total BS there! There is simply no such thing as a "true" white diode thus what you are claiming makes zero sense & it's false as can be.

 

[maximusluminous]

I look at it like this:

You have a driver at say 240w.

Lm301 chips are up to 80% more efficient than standard leds. Red and blue leds are up to 80% less efficient than REGULAR white LEDs. Much less efficient than a lm301.

Every watt you spend on red or blue is equal to at least 2 or 3 times less light than that of just lm301 chips. Color aside.

It's TRUE that your red and blue LEDs crapping out will not effect your white light. But in my view, just having the red and blue on the same driver is effecting your output. It is wattage better spent on more efficient, longer lasting light.

Specially when it's easy to supplement.
Just buy some supplemental red and or blue, and replace them when they crap out. it also equals more overall light since the red is in top of the 240w not including it.

Also I can have my red (and I do) on a separate timer. So it's not on all day. Only about 5 hours a day in mid to late flower.

"Why was it so difficult to develop blue light emitting diodes (led's) after the other colors were commonly available for years?"

"Actually blue is very easy and utilizes a different substrate material. All of the diode’s we call white these days are actually a very light shade of blue, then phosphor is added to produce the appearance of white light. (a very elementary explanation, actually very complicated) That’s why when you look at the diode’s themselves when they’re turned off, they look very yellow. The yellow phosphor is added to blend with the light blue light which results in a white color we see as a white light.

Red was the first color, then (if I remember correctly) it was yellow-green, and more recently blue. Those are still the predominant colors available in diode’s."

Thats straight from the LED industry in a Q&A

 

[BigCube]

a white diode is a blue diode with a phosphor coating, how does a phosphor coating make a white LED (which is a blue LED with a phosphor coating) 80% more efficient than the very blue diode it was made from? I'm calling total BS there! There is simply no such thing as a "true" white diode thus what you are claiming makes zero sense & it's false as can be.

I mistyped. I mean UV not blue.

I'm saying red and blue, but actually am referring to near read and ultraviolet. It's just shorthand, sorry for the confusion

 

[maximusluminous]

I mistyped. I mean UV not blue.

I'm saying red and blue, but actually am referring to near read and ultraviolet. It's just shorthand, sorry for the confusion

that makes more sense but honestly UV diodes are garbage at this point, they are never detectable by meters than can detect uv light when tests are done on LED grow lights with UV diodes in em & they are uva not uvb, as uvb diodes are crazy stupid expensive & are pretty much garbage too. So why would anyone waste diode space on a board on em to begin with?

 

[BigCube]

that makes more sense but honestly UV diodes are garbage at this point, they are never detectable by meters than can detect uv light when tests are done on LED grow lights with UV diodes in em & they are uva not uvb, as uvb diodes are crazy stupid expensive & are pretty much garbage too. So why would anyone waste diode space on a board on em to begin with?

I agree. Specially when florecent can produce lots of efficient uv A B or C.

 

[916Fisherman]

Do you mean research or COPY, and try to KNOCKOFF?

BTW..The Kingbrites should have been researched 2 years ago, as there are newer things in the pipeline..

They all copy each other anyway.