BigCube
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what did you pay including shipping for the 2 240's?
UV & IR diodes in the boards is not wise, you have just lowered the boards lifespan by 50% if not 70%
and that is a very smart decision on your part! I'm right with your thinking!I tend to agree with this assessment. While you can still use your board after the red and blue burn out, its lost wattage.
Moreover, the lm301 efficiency makes every watt you use from your driver on red or blue, almost doubles the amount if light lost not having the lm301 LEDs use that wattage.
Thus is why I choose to supplement and not have them "on board".
I run the cheaper 301b top bin also I have 3 diff ones and I have 5 of the qb boards.......I have decided on 2 x 600w LM301H + Epistar 660nm.
I want to do a review of the boards in the more affordable price bracket. Once you add Cree to the LM301H boards it starts getting more expensive, to the point new growers will not feel comfortable with that level of cost up front.
For two 600w LM301H with 660nm Epistar it will cost $982. This includes shipping. For the Cree it would cost at least $1200 with shipping.
I don't agree..... there running by them self's and have nothing to do with the white'sUV & IR diodes in the boards is not wise, you have just lowered the boards lifespan by 50% if not 70%
but when they go out the power allotted to them isn't redirected to the whites so the system efficiency & power has dropped, its like using an HPS bulb that has been used for a year already, its not near as good as a new bulb in efficiency & spectrum... is this wrong?I don't agree..... there running by them self's and have nothing to do with the white's
how is this bruning my light up??? If anything it is saving my light cause it's not running 100%.......... and I don't run mine 100% most the time anyways......but when they go out the power allotted to them isn't redirected to the whites so the system efficiency & power has dropped, its like using an HPS bulb that has been used for a year already, its not near as good as a new bulb in efficiency & spectrum... is this wrong?
And since there have been ZERO reports of anything burning up on Kingbrites..it is a moot point at best.how is this bruning my light up??? If anything it is saving my light cause it's not running 100%.......... and I don't run mine 100% most the time anyways......
all your saying is I'm pushing 200w at 100% in white not 240w... so the other 40 w is red and ua....... it's Not killing my Light by 50-70%.............in life span................................
once it doesn't work as it was made to work its toast in my book or else I would run HID bulbs for 2 years.. Thats just me, but I changed bulbs every other harvest too, not knocking the way anyone else does it or the way anyone else feels about it.how is this bruning my light up??? If anything it is saving my light cause it's not running 100%.......... and I don't run mine 100% most the time anyways......
all your saying is I'm pushing 200w at 100% in white not 240w... so the other 40 w is red and ua....... it's Not killing my Light by 50-70%.............in life span................................
a white diode is a blue diode with a phosphor coating, how does a phosphor coating make a white LED (which is a blue LED with a phosphor coating) 80% more efficient than the very blue diode it was made from? I'm calling total BS there! There is simply no such thing as a "true" white diode thus what you are claiming makes zero sense & it's false as can be.I look at it like this:
You have a driver at say 240w.
Lm301 chips are up to 80% more efficient than standard leds. Red and blue leds are up to 80% less efficient than REGULAR white LEDs. Much less efficient than a lm301.
Every watt you spend on red or blue is equal to at least 2 or 3 times less light than that of just lm301 chips. Color aside.
It's TRUE that your red and blue LEDs crapping out will not effect your white light. But in my view, just having the red and blue on the same driver is effecting your output. It is wattage better spent on more efficient, longer lasting light.
Specially when it's easy to supplement.
Just buy some supplemental red and or blue, and replace them when they crap out.it also equals more overall light since the red is in top of the 240w not including it.
Also I can have my red (and I do) on a separate timer. So it's not on all day. Only about 5 hours a day in mid to late flower.
I look at it like this:
You have a driver at say 240w.
Lm301 chips are up to 80% more efficient than standard leds. Red and blue leds are up to 80% less efficient than REGULAR white LEDs. Much less efficient than a lm301.
Every watt you spend on red or blue is equal to at least 2 or 3 times less light than that of just lm301 chips. Color aside.
It's TRUE that your red and blue LEDs crapping out will not effect your white light. But in my view, just having the red and blue on the same driver is effecting your output. It is wattage better spent on more efficient, longer lasting light.
Specially when it's easy to supplement.
Just buy some supplemental red and or blue, and replace them when they crap out.it also equals more overall light since the red is in top of the 240w not including it.
Also I can have my red (and I do) on a separate timer. So it's not on all day. Only about 5 hours a day in mid to late flower.
a white diode is a blue diode with a phosphor coating, how does a phosphor coating make a white LED (which is a blue LED with a phosphor coating) 80% more efficient than the very blue diode it was made from? I'm calling total BS there! There is simply no such thing as a "true" white diode thus what you are claiming makes zero sense & it's false as can be.
that makes more sense but honestly UV diodes are garbage at this point, they are never detectable by meters than can detect uv light when tests are done on LED grow lights with UV diodes in em & they are uva not uvb, as uvb diodes are crazy stupid expensive & are pretty much garbage too. So why would anyone waste diode space on a board on em to begin with?I mistyped. I mean UV not blue.
I'm saying red and blue, but actually am referring to near read and ultraviolet. It's just shorthand, sorry for the confusion
that makes more sense but honestly UV diodes are garbage at this point, they are never detectable by meters than can detect uv light when tests are done on LED grow lights with UV diodes in em & they are uva not uvb, as uvb diodes are crazy stupid expensive & are pretty much garbage too. So why would anyone waste diode space on a board on em to begin with?
They all copy each other anyway.Do you mean research or COPY, and try to KNOCKOFF?
BTW..The Kingbrites should have been researched 2 years ago, as there are newer things in the pipeline..
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