CannasaurusR
- Posts
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- Joined
- Jan 21, 2015
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- 43
OK best prebuilt LED replacement for 600w hid...to waste some income tax refund money. cheap shit $600 cdn??? top end stuff $1200??? suggestions???
Yes, it's part of "commercial code" and is required in many industries. We have our machines UL tested once they've evolved beyond prototypes and become a marketable product ... but I don't have anything to do with that part of it other than running the machines and operating the safety stops. UL does the rest of the inspection with a couple of company engineers. I'm not a part of the billing process or even the discussions about costs and I had no idea it was that expensive. On the flip side, we sell million dollar products to industry ... $5000 per machine for UL is nothing to the company. It gets passed on to the customer anyway.I agree but I am talking about selling a light to a commercial grow. Every part must be UL standard
It depends on the product and what they are testing and certification requirements. I know they charge well over 5k for fire tests, this is when you actually put a product into an oven and start a fire to determine how long the fire can carry on without penetrating thru the product. And if you fail guess what, you get to pay for another test.Yes, it's part of "commercial code" and is required in many industries. We have our machines UL tested once they've evolved beyond prototypes and become a marketable product ... but I don't have anything to do with that part of it other than running the machines and operating the safety stops. UL does the rest of the inspection with a couple of company engineers. I'm not a part of the billing process or even the discussions about costs and I had no idea it was that expensive. On the flip side, we sell million dollar products to industry ... $5000 per machine for UL is nothing to the company. It gets passed on to the customer anyway.
It depends on the product and what they are testing and certification requirements. I know they charge well over 5k for fire tests, this is when you actually put a product into an oven and start a fire to determine how long the fire can carry on without penetrating thru the product. And if you fail guess what, you get to pay for another test.
I worked at a place where we tested some stuff and failed. It was like 20 years ago and I want to say a 20 minute test was 12K. Failed and ended up using another companies test data and just paid a licensing fee.I can see why it's important to pass it on the first try ....
My first instinct is to think the inspector was receiving extra money on the side to push that product. What other motivation could there have been? Without knowing all details, it does sound like there was something dirty going on behind the scenes.I worked at a place where we tested some stuff and failed. It was like 20 years ago and I want to say a 20 minute test was 12K. Failed and ended up using another companies test data and just paid a licensing fee.
I had a job years ago and the specification writer was trying to hang his hat on a particular manufacturing stating the reason for the failure was because we did not use the specified manufacturer. I ended up using the information provided by the under right to prove that the specified manufacturer did not matter because the test and the procedures came from another manufacturer that was providing a sub assembled part and the specified manufacturer was only adding incidentals to the finish product. The guy got all pissed off and as we walked out side of the meeting he told me he told them not to use said product.
It was actually all on the up and up. The guy (spec writer) was all cocky and stuff. I remember the situation well, the guy called me and gave me like 45 minutes to meet him at the site with the owner, contractor and architect present. He had no idea what he was up against. I had found out the product was purchased from the listing manufacturer sub assembled and he knew nothing of that because I had done my homework. So he went off on his tangent about how much better said manufacturer was than the one I provided. I just simply stated the truth that the product was purchased sub assembled and the internal construction that failed was the problem and it would have failed in either situation. He really had no come back. These is more to it, the produce in question was a door and it had electric hardware on it, specifically latch retracting hardware. Meaning that when power was applied to the locking mechanism it would automatically retract the latchbolt. The project had numerous other openings with electrified hardware but they worked differently. They worked by unlocking the outside handle. The opening in question had latch retracting hardware so it just retracted the latch. The rest of the doors had levers that unlocked so people were trying to use the door in the same manner. Push the outside trim down and gain entry. With the latch retracting hardware the outside trim is rigid. So people would get all upset and by the time they tried pushing on the door, the latch bolt would go back into a locked position. Eventually, the door failed because the manufacturer of the latch retracting hardware required too much material to be removed from the door for the hardware preps. He knew it and as we walked out he says to be, I always tell them to use hollow metal doors in that kind of an application. Needless to say we got paid to change the doors out.My first instinct is to think the inspector was receiving extra money on the side to push that product. What other motivation could there have been? Without knowing all details, it does sound like there was something dirty going on behind the scenes.
It was actually all on the up and up. The guy (spec writer) was all cocky and stuff. I remember the situation well, the guy called me and gave me like 45 minutes to meet him at the site with the owner, contractor and architect present. He had no idea what he was up against. I had found out the product was purchased from the listing manufacturer sub assembled and he knew nothing of that because I had done my homework. So he went off on his tangent about how much better said manufacturer was than the one I provided. I just simply stated the truth that the product was purchased sub assembled and the internal construction that failed was the problem and it would have failed in either situation. He really had no come back. These is more to it, the produce in question was a door and it had electric hardware on it, specifically latch retracting hardware. Meaning that when power was applied to the locking mechanism it would automatically retract the latchbolt. The project had numerous other openings with electrified hardware but they worked differently. They worked by unlocking the outside handle. The opening in question had latch retracting hardware so it just retracted the latch. The rest of the doors had levers that unlocked so people were trying to use the door in the same manner. Push the outside trim down and gain entry. With the latch retracting hardware the outside trim is rigid. So people would get all upset and by the time they tried pushing on the door, the latch bolt would go back into a locked position. Eventually, the door failed because the manufacturer of the latch retracting hardware required too much material to be removed from the door for the hardware preps. He knew it and as we walked out he says to be, I always tell them to use hollow metal doors in that kind of an application. Needless to say we got paid to change the doors out.
Most of the under righters publish listings for products from different manufacturers and what they have tested with said under righter. Some of the old companies will have tests from varies under righters and they can use combinations to get stuff qualified. But basically I can guarantee you that someone like EG (inverted) has a ton of pull with these types and they get to do stuff others cannot.
The latch retracting hardware is way expensive while electrified locks or electrified trims are reasonable, also latch retraction required large amounts of amps to get the device moving so there are additional requirements, like ungraded power supplies and power transfers. So there is a cost to consider as well. An electric lock or electric trim is reasonable and requires really low electrical power. .33 amps to work, so those are typically just feed thru the access control panel to a hinge that literally have a hole drilled right thru the middle of the hinge material and wires are concealed in the hinge. All of these devices are nothing more than an electro magnet. Just like the electro magnet picking up the car with a crane on Get Smart back in the day. I just cannot tell you how many times I have seen or heard someone telling me the lock is bad, about the only way to kill one of these assemblies off is to give it too many volts. But the answer is always the same, oh we did not do that. We use to take 3 9 volt batteries and hook them up in series to get 27 volts. A little high but it worked. We would walk the super around and fire ever lock and prove it worked, that way when the electrician or the access control provided tried to BS his way out of his problem we would already have a comeback and it would sometimes.
The industry I work in is a mess. Pretty much every application is unique in some way. To be honest it is getting too complicated and I am getting older and tired of it. I have been in this industry for almost 37 years and I just love it when I get the new guy and he started telling me about his career and how long he has been at said company. I am a humble person, I have always tried to use the saying, walk softly but carry a big stick. So when I get the I have be in the business for 15-20 years bla bla bla. It kind of causes the hair on the back of my neck to stand up and I usually inform said individual how long I have been at it. I just really have a distaste for the braggers.Wow ... I've run into my own situations with engineering designs that were not quite right and needed to be altered here and there. I have yet to run into something quite like that though ... despite my time in my industry and my travels in the field.
Thousand CDN plus shipping here......hlg 600 is 650 right now no point in buying the new spiderfarmer
I know eh. There’s a market open for a top shelf LED that’s made in Canada. Or just a US manufacturer expanding with a warehouse into Canada.Thousand CDN plus shipping here......
with code 891 cad equal to 705 us spider farmer is 790 cad not worth the hundred more cad?Thousand CDN plus shipping here......
As an LED dummy, the led camp is divided into 3 groups, cob's, panels, and strips? Both qb (panels) and the strip style (most diy examples) look like kids litebrite toys. Like ya took an old cookie pan and glued a bunch of bedazzle beads on it. Cobs seem to have a little more robust engineering behind them, and the unit look a little more physically solid. For the life of me though, a mars or any of the cheap chinese boards, use the 'same' drivers and emitters as say California lightworks et al. The arguement for double or triple the price is "U.S. engineered" or "assembled and service in U.S." and a better warranty. The other justification is Chinese assembled units have cut rate solder or haphazard production practices etc. Sounds like the automotive industry in the 70's...Japanese crap said Detroit...hello...Detroit? 40 years later...oh wait...we all made shit, but theirs was cheaper. 1982 Harley Davidson starts anti Jap bike advertizing, quickly pointed out by Honda that a Goldwing has more American content then a Sportster. About the strip panels...I think they are coming to the forefront but it looks like if I lean on it accidentally it will distort into a parrallelogram rebus shape, like putting up a cheap tent in a hurricane type damage, told ya I was a dummy and old and clumsy. Big income tax cheque though LOL. Kinda leanin toward a cob unit, best manufacturer? Unless they are all blurple.....
They are. They pack a lot of light in them too. I don't use them but they are hard to beat.Wait. I thought Creee 3590s were COBs.
i feel the same way about these flimsy looking overpriced boards and strips. I like Timber cobs. I am leaning toward them still.
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High quality LED Grow Lights built in the USA using top quality components. 3 Year Warranty, high PAR/PPF output, low heat, close canopy operation, silent no fans, dimmable operation.timbergrowlights.com
there bar lights look good too. They say they are for short spaces and vertical gardening.
Strip lights have the most even/best light/par distribution which is important in scrog growing. Just be careful during unboxing, mounting, use strong rope ratchets. When they hang low and you work under be mindful when standing up so your head don’t hit the light.
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